Drivetrain Pilo Racing Piston Information
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6th Gear
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From: Wyckoff, NJ
Pilo Racing Piston Information
Here is some information and aplace to discuss the upcoming Pistons that we have coming out. I am removing the information from Helix's and PSI-FI's Post.
Info From Post:
A Set of four pistons should run in the mid 600's for a Forged Custom Piston.
Install of pistons requires removal of cylinder head, and dropping the oil pan. then they will just drop right in.
It is a great idea to chang a the same time as changing the cylinder head for the best performance. If there are other questions about this, please contact me directly, or start anothr post. I do not want to hyjack this thread.
Info From Post:
A Set of four pistons should run in the mid 600's for a Forged Custom Piston.
Install of pistons requires removal of cylinder head, and dropping the oil pan. then they will just drop right in.
It is a great idea to chang a the same time as changing the cylinder head for the best performance. If there are other questions about this, please contact me directly, or start anothr post. I do not want to hyjack this thread.
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6th Gear
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From: Wyckoff, NJ
The piston for the Mini Cooper S model will feature a deck-high design with an inverted dome crown. We are expecting Prototype Completion on 11/12/04 and install short after.
Compression will be 8.5:1.
IT will be similar to this piston.
Compression will be 8.5:1.
IT will be similar to this piston.
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6th Gear
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From: Wyckoff, NJ
Originally Posted by Mjolnir
Hi Dan, thanks for the info.
Can you offer any more information as to how much better/stronger/lighter/whatever your product is compared to factory or the competition?
Thanks,
Can you offer any more information as to how much better/stronger/lighter/whatever your product is compared to factory or the competition?
Thanks,
• Hi-tensile forged, not cast, billet material
• Proper forging cross-sections
• CNC machined working surfaces
• Micro-flat Sure Seal ring grooves
• Inverted dome crown for efficient combustion
• Diamond-turned ellipsoidal skirt profile
• Ultra close no-rock skirt clearance
• Consistent measurements part-to-part
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From: So Cal
Originally Posted by MiniPilo
The piston for the Mini Cooper S model will feature a deck-high design with an inverted dome crown. We are expecting Prototype Completion on 11/12/04 and install short after.
Compression will be 8.5:1.
IT will be similar to this piston.
Compression will be 8.5:1.
IT will be similar to this piston.
worried about blow-by when adding a turbo to the S/C set-up
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6th Gear
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From: Wyckoff, NJ
Originally Posted by mybroscoop
are you going to make pistons for the cooper, if so do you know what compression ration they will have, if so hello to lots of boost from a turbo 
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6th Gear
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From: Wyckoff, NJ
Originally Posted by El Diablito Rojo-N20Mini
You don't plan on making any that will be turbo compatible? Somewhere around 8:1....
worried about blow-by when adding a turbo to the S/C set-up
worried about blow-by when adding a turbo to the S/C set-up
The 0.2 bump in C/R seems non-condusive to higher-boost applications. Can you please explain your stance on this? What would be the performance advantages be for a higher compression piston on an already highly boosted engine? I'd rather not run 100 octane in my daily driver 
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6th Gear
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From: Wyckoff, NJ
Originally Posted by Ryephile
The 0.2 bump in C/R seems non-condusive to higher-boost applications. Can you please explain your stance on this? What would be the performance advantages be for a higher compression piston on an already highly boosted engine? I'd rather not run 100 octane in my daily driver
Our goal is to get as much HP as possible with out going to turbo.
If you want more info, let me know.
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6th Gear
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From: Wyckoff, NJ
Originally Posted by CooperSdriver
Now with the situation I'm in, I definitely am looking into getting a set. What time range are you looking to release them?
Danny
Danny
Thanks
Dan
Pilo Racing
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6th Gear
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From: Wyckoff, NJ
Originally Posted by macncheese
Maybe you can give us (the less informed) a quick lesson on combustion and why the changes you're making are for the better? Thanks!
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From: Lansdale, PA
Originally Posted by MiniPilo
Install of pistons requires removal of cylinder head, and dropping the oil pan. then they will just drop right in.
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Should we bother to remove the old ones? Or just drop them in on top of the old ones? I tried this, but only two would fit. Then, when I hammered the other two down, the first two would pop up!?? I don't want to keep hammering because it denting the inverted crown dome. What am I doing wrong?
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Originally Posted by Bisch
Should we bother to remove the old ones? Or just drop them in on top of the old ones? I tried this, but only two would fit. Then, when I hammered the other two down, the first two would pop up!?? I don't want to keep hammering because it denting the inverted crown dome. What am I doing wrong?
If nothing else, just take a 2 X 4 and beat on it until they all stay down.
Brute force and ignorance will always overcome elegance and skill.
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6th Gear
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From: Wyckoff, NJ
I forgot the mention the part where you are supposed to be on a 10 ft platform before dropping...
In all seriousness, There are 2 bolts that are on the rod that connects to the crank shaft that need removal, using a 10 mm ratchet, be careful not to scratch the bearings, or drop any parts. Then you can push the piston up and out. Remove the Pin from the existing piston, and replace with provided pin, and new piston.
Then install rings, and compress with ring compressor, and install into block while matching the exhaust side clover to the rear of the engine.
Rebolt the rod to the crank, and begin assembly.
In all seriousness, There are 2 bolts that are on the rod that connects to the crank shaft that need removal, using a 10 mm ratchet, be careful not to scratch the bearings, or drop any parts. Then you can push the piston up and out. Remove the Pin from the existing piston, and replace with provided pin, and new piston.
Then install rings, and compress with ring compressor, and install into block while matching the exhaust side clover to the rear of the engine.
Rebolt the rod to the crank, and begin assembly.
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6th Gear
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From: Wyckoff, NJ
Engine Combustion Basics.
Originally Posted by macncheese
Maybe you can give us (the less informed) a quick lesson on combustion and why the changes you're making are for the better? Thanks!
Here is a Quote from
http://www.pontiacstreetperformance....mpression.html
Deck Height or Deck Clearance:
This most important step consists of measuring the distance from the assembled piston tops to the surface of the block deck (deck clearance), and milling as necessary. The general feeling is that the total quench or squish distance should be about .040". The quench distance is the compressed thickness of the head gasket plus the deck clearance. As most of our Pontiac head gaskets compress to about .042", that means we want about 0 deck clearance. The quench area is the flat part of the piston that would contact a similar part of the head if you had .000 assembled quench height. In a running engine, the .040 quench height decreases to a close collision between the piston and the cylinder head. The shock wave from the near collision drives air at high velocity through the combustion chamber. This movement tends to cool hot spots, averages the chamber temperature, reduces detonation and increases power. The shock wave also provides better fuel/air mixing, and this allows the fuel to ignite better and burn faster. A faster burning fuel charge means less timing is required for optimum power output. An example of this--after running my 462 for years with a factory deck height of about .020, we set the deck to 0. There were no other significant changes to the engine (new rings and bearings, but same cam, heads, intake and exhaust systems). The optimum timing setting prior to the change was 34 degrees - that provided the fastest MPH and quickest ET. After the change to 0 deck, the optimum timing using the same Amoco gas changed to only 30 degrees total mechanical. Not only did the lowering the deck raise the CR by several tenths of a point, but by retarding the timing 4 degrees, we were later able to increase the CR even higher due to the optimum lower timing setting.
Note: Since it is the close spacing between the piston and cylinder that reduces the prospect of detonation, never add a shim/head gasket, or flat cut the pistons tops to reduce CR. If you have proper quench with 10 to 1 CR, and then reduce the CR to 9.5 by one of these two methods, you will create more ping with the 9.5 CR then you had with the 10 CR. By all means, deck the block first and under all circumstances when building an engine for optimum power output, and then determine what chamber volume will be needed in the heads to arrive at the final CR.
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From: New Jersey
Originally Posted by MiniPilo
I am compiling this information in conjunction with my Cylinder head builder, and My Piston Designer to give all the information in one post that I think every one will want to know. hang in there.
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From: NY NY
given that the stock S pistons deck at .100" "in the hole" and adding another .025" for the gasket, Mini didn't bother to put much for quench pads in the head. the stockers are also dished another .040" to produce the overall 8:1 C/R
I'm also curious about dome shape; if you're raising the deck height to gain quench, you will be raising C/R. If you are also adding postive shape necessitating valve reliefs, that will raise C/R. since the stock compression volume is only about 12 cc, raising the C/R from 8:1 to 8.5:1 is only reducing the compression volume by a few cc.
can you show us a pic or drawing of the piston top?
I'm also curious about dome shape; if you're raising the deck height to gain quench, you will be raising C/R. If you are also adding postive shape necessitating valve reliefs, that will raise C/R. since the stock compression volume is only about 12 cc, raising the C/R from 8:1 to 8.5:1 is only reducing the compression volume by a few cc.
can you show us a pic or drawing of the piston top?