I have over 115k miles on my 2007 MCS. I purchased the car used with 90k mi on it. I am new to Mini maintenance.

I have recently started looking into a new clutch and flywheel kit for my car.

Upon looking for new assemblies I have stumbled on some kits that have a single mass flywheel. Are those supposed to be better than a dual flywheel?
If I get a new clutch will I need two new flywheels?

So far I have looked at Vaela, clutch masters and exedy (or however you spell that) for clutch kits.

 

You don't buy two flywheels. It's either "dual mass" or "single mass". Dual mass is more complicated, but smoother. Single mass is preferred in performance situations, but avoid anything super light unless you really like slipping the clutch starting from a dead stop.

 

Thanks man, that helps a little in my search. I already have to slip the clutch when trying to take off fast and it is annoying because I have always been used to dumping and going.

Do you have any brands you would recommend for a single mass?

 

Chances are you are used to driving other cars with dual mass flywheels as well. They arent new. The oem clutch/flywheel combo is pretty well regarded around here. Some people have had issues with quick wear but they hold plenty of torque and wont chatter like a single mass.

I just replaced my clutch with oem unit and did not replace the flywheel. It didnt show any signs of significant wear. Oem kit without flywheel is only about $350.

 

What in the world are you used to? Mack trucks and IROCs?

No lie, I knew a kid in HS who was given an IROC-Z V8 manual. He was never taught nor learned to drive stick properly, he just revved it and dumped the clutch wherever he went. Car was trashed by the time he graduated, and he was replacing rear tires on what I swear was a every two week regimen. I dearly hope you're not the same way.

 

Depends on the manufacturer. BMW is awfully enamored with dual mass. Other manufacturers aren't as fond of it.

 

my concern with that is not the wear surface, but the mechanism in the dual mass. Ive heard it can fail and i dont know how to evaluate it.

 

I havent heard anything about flywheel failure on these cars. Hell if you get the clutch replaced under warranty the dealer wont always change out the flywheel.

 

The clutch failed in my wife's 2012 Countryman S All4 with 29k miles. Dealer won't cover it under warranty unless they find something broken after tear down, but I have to commit to their $3900 clutch job($2200 parts, $1700 labor). I will not commit to that craziness. From my searches I will probably replace with a single mass flywheel kit from JMTurbos.

 

I wonder how many people will buy new MINIs if they knew this info.

 

Probably very few.

Very hard to justify these prices.

 

if you do please let us know how it goes, there isn't much discussion out there re their clutch kits.

(hopefully their part designers are more talented than their web site designer )

 

If I remember correctly, there were a lot of complaints about Countryman clutches in the early models and they made a change for 2012 production?

 

For the get up and go from a dead stop I am used to being able to dump the clutch and have instant response vs now, where I own my first turbo engine and have to slip the clutch off the line since it is stock and will fall on her face if I dump the clutch.

I used to do what your friend did when I was teaching myself lol. It can be fun.

 

A Mini dealer here in MN quoted me 1900 For labor. I have never changed a clutch before but for that much I will gladly take my own time and figure it out.

Let me know how the JMTurbos flywheel kit feels/works for you.

 

I had a moonlighting Mini mech change mine (west coast) --- took all day and about $600 labor --- I furnished all material. Not a job for the inexperienced. I suggest you find a local independent that knows Mini's --- big labor differences.

 

Per the Clintons manual it is like a 12hr job. The only thing I have never done is bleeding a clutch and I know I don't have the tools for it. If I can find someone to help I would gladly take it. I have dealt with cable clutches before and those are much easier for me.

 

This can be done without bleeding the clutch. Not recommended, but bleeding can be done after the replacement, by most any shop.

 

Well sweet! I have a family mechanic, only problem is he is about 30 minutes from me. Will I still be able to drive it without a proper bleed?

 

If you don't disconnect the hose or drain any fluid, there should be no need to bleed it. The slave cylinder unbolts easily from the trans case and can be positioned out of the way while removing the tranny. Mine is in this situation now and it's the 2nd time I've done this --- different reasons and 2 years between events --- never been bled while I've owned it --- 6 years.

 

Sorry for a slight OT.

If there's a "moonlighting mechanic" in Los Angeles area please let me know. I need to replace my brake pads and change spark plugs/coil.

Thanks.

 

The original flywheel started to come apart on my 2010 S at about 115k miles so they aren't bulletproof. Cost me $3100 to get it replaced and that was on discount because I had just had the clutch replaced for $2800 less than a year before the flywheel broke.

 

What were the signs of your flywheel falling apart?

 

Here is a write up with good detail on replacing the clutch HERE
I spoke with a local independent that specializes in MINI's and he quoted 9 to 10 hours labor. I am still waiting to get our Mini back from the dealer for the thermostat replacement under warranty. They have had it 5 weeks now. Two weeks ago we were still number 15 on the list and they told me they were getting 5 thermostats in a week. They are paying for a rental car while we wait.

 

It felt like something was loose in the drive train, and the entire car would shudder when changing gears all the way up to 6th. Starting from stop was especially bad, and would stall if I let the clutch out below 2500 rpm.