Drivetrain Wagner Intercooler
Wagner Intercooler
So my competition intercooler just came in the mail yesterday and I have a few questions. Just so you know I have a 2012 r56s. Currently I have the alta bov spring upgrade, jb+, invidia q300, NM intake, lower motor mount, and that's it. What I want to know is will I feel a difference? I know it doesn't really add power but I want to know if I'll notice it. Also how hard and long is the install and do you have any tips.
Install for my Helix IC was a piece of cake. Take off the front bumper, remove the torx screws and intercooler tubing, remove the IC and replace with new. Then put everything back together. I would guess takes no longer than an hour or two.
I think you'll notice it most if you run it hard for a while, like on a track. The power will continue be delivered since the charge air stays cooler, whereas you could experience heat soak with stock IC since it's tiny, and power would decrease. Driving around town I doubt you'll feel anything different, I don't.
I think you'll notice it most if you run it hard for a while, like on a track. The power will continue be delivered since the charge air stays cooler, whereas you could experience heat soak with stock IC since it's tiny, and power would decrease. Driving around town I doubt you'll feel anything different, I don't.
Install for my Helix IC was a piece of cake. Take off the front bumper, remove the torx screws and intercooler tubing, remove the IC and replace with new. Then put everything back together. I would guess takes no longer than an hour or two.
I think you'll notice it most if you run it hard for a while, like on a track. The power will continue be delivered since the charge air stays cooler, whereas you could experience heat soak with stock IC since it's tiny, and power would decrease. Driving around town I doubt you'll feel anything different, I don't.
I think you'll notice it most if you run it hard for a while, like on a track. The power will continue be delivered since the charge air stays cooler, whereas you could experience heat soak with stock IC since it's tiny, and power would decrease. Driving around town I doubt you'll feel anything different, I don't.
Boost pressure will drop a tiny bit when you get a larger FMIC.
Its not a simple install. The bumper is the easy part. On north american cars, there is a lower crash bar which blocks the installation of the intercooler. To get around it, you can either cut the lower crash bar, or take the whole front rebar/crash structure off and squeeze the intercooler behind the lower crash bar. I did the latter. I didn't drill any holes either.
Its not a simple install. The bumper is the easy part. On north american cars, there is a lower crash bar which blocks the installation of the intercooler. To get around it, you can either cut the lower crash bar, or take the whole front rebar/crash structure off and squeeze the intercooler behind the lower crash bar. I did the latter. I didn't drill any holes either.
Boost pressure will drop a tiny bit when you get a larger FMIC.
Its not a simple install. The bumper is the easy part. On north american cars, there is a lower crash bar which blocks the installation of the intercooler. To get around it, you can either cut the lower crash bar, or take the whole front rebar/crash structure off and squeeze the intercooler behind the lower crash bar. I did the latter. I didn't drill any holes either.
Its not a simple install. The bumper is the easy part. On north american cars, there is a lower crash bar which blocks the installation of the intercooler. To get around it, you can either cut the lower crash bar, or take the whole front rebar/crash structure off and squeeze the intercooler behind the lower crash bar. I did the latter. I didn't drill any holes either.
Yes, you don't need to drill anything. Its fine with the existing mounting points. I added a few zip ties to be sure.
If you arent cutting the lower crash bar, you have to take off the front crashbar. There's no other way.
You'll see what I mean when you go to install it.
If you arent cutting the lower crash bar, you have to take off the front crashbar. There's no other way.
You'll see what I mean when you go to install it.
Yes, you don't need to drill anything. Its fine with the existing mounting points. I added a few zip ties to be sure.
If you arent cutting the lower crash bar, you have to take off the front crashbar. There's no other way.
You'll see what I mean when you go to install it.
If you arent cutting the lower crash bar, you have to take off the front crashbar. There's no other way.
You'll see what I mean when you go to install it.
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Alright so i got stuck on the intercooler hoses. Any tips for getting them off? The hot side was easyour to get off but this one won't budge. I tried using a screwdriver to pry it off but no luck. How did you guys do it?
Been there, done that (installed the Wagner Competition intercooler on a 2012 R56S.)
See here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4033336
See here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4033336
I have the Helix Gen 1 IC which doesn't have any mounting points for extra sturdiness. It was thin enough that I could fit it in between the radiator and the crash support bar. Wagner must be different.
As for the IC tubes just continue to wiggle it out and use lots of force, there's a ridge in the piping of the IC that keeps the tubing in place I think.
As for the IC tubes just continue to wiggle it out and use lots of force, there's a ridge in the piping of the IC that keeps the tubing in place I think.
I have the Helix Gen 1 IC which doesn't have any mounting points for extra sturdiness. It was thin enough that I could fit it in between the radiator and the crash support bar. Wagner must be different.
As for the IC tubes just continue to wiggle it out and use lots of force, there's a ridge in the piping of the IC that keeps the tubing in place I think.
As for the IC tubes just continue to wiggle it out and use lots of force, there's a ridge in the piping of the IC that keeps the tubing in place I think.
So I finished installing it and I have to say it wasn't too bad. I eventually got pissed at the hoses and that's when I pulled it off lol. The intercooler fit with no cutting or drilling. I left the tab on but I didn't need to drill it in. It's not resting on the radiator or anything like that. I don't really notice a different yet but I haven't really done much driving aside from work. I'm assuming this is more of a better mod once I get the tune . I bet my engine is happier now though.
Hi from UK.
I ran a Wagner fmic on my 2012 MCS N18 for a while. Fitting was ok, but drilling the hole in the crash bar was a real pig! I used a stainless steel bolt through the top tab rather than rely on the supplied fixing; it was a major effort to get the hole big enough. The hoses were JUST too short for the input stubs and so fiddly...I used Vaseline to help on one side. A BAD idea 'cos it later popped off under WOT. The MINI hose clamps have an extra fixing that keeps it all in place better so degreasing the area, then refitting those (instead of the units supplied by Wagner) cured the problem. Later I took the Wagner off and put the OEM unit back on.
Yes; I measured input temps and it was fantastic at keeping them significantly lower but I suspect the ecu/dme compensated anyway...
It's a larger unit with more air volume and I felt that boost pressure slightly lagged and 'pick up' was compromised slightly. I definitely noticed more 'driveability' with the old unit re-installed - but it's an 'itch' we all like to scratch...
Imo an fmic install requires a remap as well to restore and improve boost characteristics.
Yes, on its own it ought to keep performance 'sparkling' for a little longer in a hot US climate...
I ran a Wagner fmic on my 2012 MCS N18 for a while. Fitting was ok, but drilling the hole in the crash bar was a real pig! I used a stainless steel bolt through the top tab rather than rely on the supplied fixing; it was a major effort to get the hole big enough. The hoses were JUST too short for the input stubs and so fiddly...I used Vaseline to help on one side. A BAD idea 'cos it later popped off under WOT. The MINI hose clamps have an extra fixing that keeps it all in place better so degreasing the area, then refitting those (instead of the units supplied by Wagner) cured the problem. Later I took the Wagner off and put the OEM unit back on.
Yes; I measured input temps and it was fantastic at keeping them significantly lower but I suspect the ecu/dme compensated anyway...
It's a larger unit with more air volume and I felt that boost pressure slightly lagged and 'pick up' was compromised slightly. I definitely noticed more 'driveability' with the old unit re-installed - but it's an 'itch' we all like to scratch...
Imo an fmic install requires a remap as well to restore and improve boost characteristics.
Yes, on its own it ought to keep performance 'sparkling' for a little longer in a hot US climate...
Hi from UK.
I ran a Wagner fmic on my 2012 MCS N18 for a while. Fitting was ok, but drilling the hole in the crash bar was a real pig! I used a stainless steel bolt through the top tab rather than rely on the supplied fixing; it was a major effort to get the hole big enough. The hoses were JUST too short for the input stubs and so fiddly...I used Vaseline to help on one side. A BAD idea 'cos it later popped off under WOT. The MINI hose clamps have an extra fixing that keeps it all in place better so degreasing the area, then refitting those (instead of the units supplied by Wagner) cured the problem. Later I took the Wagner off and put the OEM unit back on.
Yes; I measured input temps and it was fantastic at keeping them significantly lower but I suspect the ecu/dme compensated anyway...
It's a larger unit with more air volume and I felt that boost pressure slightly lagged and 'pick up' was compromised slightly. I definitely noticed more 'driveability' with the old unit re-installed - but it's an 'itch' we all like to scratch...
Imo an fmic install requires a remap as well to restore and improve boost characteristics.
Yes, on its own it ought to keep performance 'sparkling' for a little longer in a hot US climate...
I ran a Wagner fmic on my 2012 MCS N18 for a while. Fitting was ok, but drilling the hole in the crash bar was a real pig! I used a stainless steel bolt through the top tab rather than rely on the supplied fixing; it was a major effort to get the hole big enough. The hoses were JUST too short for the input stubs and so fiddly...I used Vaseline to help on one side. A BAD idea 'cos it later popped off under WOT. The MINI hose clamps have an extra fixing that keeps it all in place better so degreasing the area, then refitting those (instead of the units supplied by Wagner) cured the problem. Later I took the Wagner off and put the OEM unit back on.
Yes; I measured input temps and it was fantastic at keeping them significantly lower but I suspect the ecu/dme compensated anyway...
It's a larger unit with more air volume and I felt that boost pressure slightly lagged and 'pick up' was compromised slightly. I definitely noticed more 'driveability' with the old unit re-installed - but it's an 'itch' we all like to scratch...
Imo an fmic install requires a remap as well to restore and improve boost characteristics.
Yes, on its own it ought to keep performance 'sparkling' for a little longer in a hot US climate...
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