Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain In need of help installing ATI Damper

Old Mar 13, 2016 | 01:10 AM
  #1  
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bansasn
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In need of help installing ATI Damper

Hi Everyone,
I am having a hard time pulling out the OEM pulley. I used this http://www.*********************/lib...#axzz1qF2nwRNg
and you tube video by Mod MINI as a reference.

Here is my problem: As I turned the puller with another person pressing hard on the brake, sometime the puller and the pulley rotate together, impossible no? You would of thought the pulley would be stationary.
Well as I slowly turning the ratchet I heard a snap and it was one of the three puller bolt M6 x 75mm broke off! Now the threaded part is stuck inside the pulley hole. How am I going to get the broken bolt thread out? Been working on this job 4 1/2 hours! It doesn't look like the Pulley moved at alll! Am I missing something here? It should be a simple job. I also changed my own SC pulley in the past and it was easy. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 01:16 AM
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Oh...I apologized to the moderator for attaching a website. It just occurred to me I couldn't do that. i also attached the picture of my pulley with the threaded part stuck inside the to the bottom pulley hole.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 06:58 AM
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You'll need to carefully drill out the broken bolt, clean the threads, and retry.

There is a crank lock handle that is sometimes needed to break the pulley loose initially, but I don't use it often.

Once you have the broken bolt out, I would recommend chasing the threads of all three holes to make sure that you have good thread engagement and not just a few threads in as well.

Good luck.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by nkfry
You'll need to carefully drill out the broken bolt, clean the threads, and retry.

There is a crank lock handle that is sometimes needed to break the pulley loose initially, but I don't use it often.

Once you have the broken bolt out, I would recommend chasing the threads of all three holes to make sure that you have good thread engagement and not just a few threads in as well.

Good luck.
I'm thinking about getting a small extractor tool to see it will work. If not I will try your suggestions. Thank you.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 11:28 AM
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Well..the OEM pulley came out and the new ATI 2% went on smoothly. Now...my engine seems to overheat sometime. Is this normal when you add the 2%? I have the aluminum expansion tank and the coolant boil's out new OEM cap. I also have a new OEM thermostat and housing. I also bled the coolant system until the coolant came out of the bleeder valve. Any advice or experience is appreciated. Thank you!
 
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Old May 18, 2016 | 09:02 PM
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Does the guage in the car indicate over heating or this is just thinking it over heating?
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 12:30 AM
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It's was overheating. Gauge went up to max and overflow of coolant from expansion tank cap. Problem is now fixed. Head gasket was the cause. I replaced it and no more overheat and no overflow coolant from expansion tank. Gauge needle is normal.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 05:38 AM
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I just ordered a cap since my cap also spilling Coolant from it, But I'm not over heating. I thought that maybe you thought it was over heating because of the coolant coming out your cap. Well happy you found out your problem.
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 01:12 PM
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I have run into the same problem with the broken puller bolt. I am curious what method you used to remove the pulley after the fact or if you had luck removing the broken bolt?
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 02:40 PM
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I end up tapping a new thread through the broken bolt. It took awhile to drill but it work out well.
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 02:43 PM
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Did you use the same size?
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 11:28 PM
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No. It was a little bigger than the original thread.
 
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