If anyone has insight on this it will be greatly welcomed.

Problem: when accelerating I am getting a loss of house power as I get to 3k rpms, from 2k to 3k it's normal but once I get to 3k I can throttle the gas but it doesn't want to excelerate even as much as it does at the lower rpms.

Now for some info. I recently did a full engine replacement with upgrades included. The engine is a low millage used engine. My SC already had a 15% pulley, I put on a ATI supper damper 2% crank pulley (making it effectively a 17% reduction for the SC) and JCW injectors, JCW cool spark plugs with new wires. I also replaced my fuel filter & valeo clutch along with hoses, gaskets & seals.

I also did a SC oil change. I reset my ECU.



I have a detroit tuned bypass valve coming but it is not here yet.

 

clogged cat

 

Did you tune it for the new injectors and pulley? If not, that'll cause an issue right there


Why did you do an engine replacement? Was the cat replaced at the same time?

 

My old engine with 200k miles was in need of a full rebuild after one of the exhaust valves edge chipped off. I still have my old engine and plan to do a full rebuild on it, it just wasn't cost effective at the time.

I have not done a tune on it yet, was hoping to have the dealer flash the JCW ECU but that was a no go.

I didn't replace the cat, but I will check that today.

 

The cat may be difficult to check. A rule of thumb with any engine damage is to replace the cat with engine. But I still wouldn't rule out needing to have the ecu tuned for your upgrades. I'd check out RMW (RevolutionMotorWorks) for a proper tune to get you back up and running.

 

A set of jcw380's and a 17% reduction in my experience ran better than stock pull wise in the higher rpms.....not so much with 15% by most accounts....a tune from RMW did make mine pull harder, but even Jan said the 17% and unturned 380's while not optimal does OK (15% in the same situation is pig rich).
I would check the operation of the bypass valve....zip tie it closed and drive around the block....maybe the vacume lines on it are not connected right or it is leaking.....
Used motors are a bit of a pig-in-a-poke, but $$ wise the only real option due to high motor costs IMO....
I would look around....make sure you have no leaks, etc...the cat is a good think too look at too...the idea a failing motor ran rich, melted the cat, giving you issues at higher rpms make perfect sense....

 

I had thought about the bypass valve and tried zip tying it, but instead of getting an increase in horse power and sooner, it bogged down at even a lower rpms.

I disconnected the exhaust from the header but couldn't see much. taking it to a exhaust shop and going to have them cut it open.

 

well they cut it open and the cat is looking really good and does not need to be replaced

 

So you haven't changed the bypass valve yet?

 

not yet, I have already ordered it but haven't received it yet. I'll replace it as soon as I get it.

 

For what it's worth my car was a dog in the low end before I changed my bypass valve recently. My valve wasn't that worn out either.

 

well I found the culprit. the pressure line that goes from the end of the intake manifold to the fuel rail popped off from the intake manifold, I tried zip tying the rubber peace onto the metal tube coming off of the intake manifold but that seemed to only work/hold the pressure for about 2 blocks. has anyone else had an issue with this little air line? what have you done to remedy it?

 

Sounds like you need to replace some vacume lines....
My tip....
The auto parts store sell it in overpriced precut lengths....
My local True-value hardware store sells vacuum lines and furl hose by the foot...from about ¢50 to $1.50 a foot....just buy a few feet...and replace it all!!

 

thanks for the tip, will do. do you recall what size worked best?

 

I wanted to post an update to all the people that help with this and to any that might have followed this post.


first I did a pressure test on the intake and found a couple of air leaks and corrected them (IC boots, valve cover gasket), but with no change.


I then when to my trusted Mini cooper mechanic (Portland Autohaus) and did a smoke test and found one more, but again with no change. he suggested rechecking the exhaust side again.


sure enough, I pulled off my exhaust manifold and the weld just before the flex section had given way and was barely holding together.


replaced it and now it runs like a bat out of hell

 

Woohoo! Power has been brought back from the dead!