It would be real nice as my HPFP is trying to quit with this cold.

I wonder what fp the Mini drag racers use?

Id love to get E85 Support. 100+ octane for cheap. So much cheaper than Race Gas.

I don't think any of the dragsters actually use the N14/N18 engines.

I can't wait til it warms up and I can take my new tune to autocross and 1/4 I ran 14.9 same modifications just jb+ love to see the increase and difference anyone else go yet?

I meant the Mini that holds the 10 second quarter mile drag record. Saw it on You Tube...has Mini motor I believe. Was wondering what fuel pump he runs...

I think the one your thinking of is an R50 with a turbo kit

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

As much as I'd like to run a catless DP, here where I live we have annual inspections which means I would have to remove the DP every year. I am unsure about the procedures regarding the install/uninstall, but the whole ordeal seems a bit too much for me. Plus if a cop smells the exhaust and suspects something, I would then have to get an additional inspection whereby all my mods have to be removed.

I know the DP gives crazy gains, but I'm not looking to whip my 07' and tune it mad because it definitely is one of the older R56's out there. I wouldn't want a stage 2 to introduce premature wearing/failure of other engine parts as I am in no position to afford all at once! Here where I live, its all city roads, the most extreme sort of driving would be a 0-30mph drag race at the lights.

I'm just looking for an overall zippier car, with a linear throttle response.

Thanks for your advice though!

Razer - the killer of power, whether with a pure stock or tuned, is high intake temperatures. The best way to cure that is with a larger FMIC. They are a relatively easy install and once in there is no "messing" with it. That would be my vote for your first mod. I would also suggest getting a ScanGauge so you can watch what is going on with the engine. And while you are replacing the FMIC, put in a delete for the hot side "muffler".

IMO I would not bother with the intake. Most are a cone filter behind the engine and it just sucks in the really hot air from under the hood. This defeats the purpose of the FMIC. The stock system does a good job of bringing in colder air from the front of the car.

Exhaust - larger and more power = noise. You can gain a bit of HP this way but you will also gain noise and these cars tend to get boomy. Some people are ok with it. Others, like me, not so much.

Posted new thread of a company replying to an upgraded fuel pump.
There are some questions on there if any of you guys are knowledgeable enough to help me answer. Thanks.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-produced.html

I just got the manic 2+ and have Mario's catless down pipe, AND I live in texas where we have yearly inspections that go by your. OBD II port, not up the exhaust as they do in older vehicles, so it won't throw a code. I was married to a cop and they are not going to tell by smelling your exhaust if you have a catless system, unless your running meth and than you have a race engine that won't be your daily driver.....I love this tune, strong pulls through entire RPMs, incredible setup thanks to Mario!

The problem is the readiness codes. You don't have a CRL, but you also don't have the needed readiness code in order to pass.i also live in Texas and had to put my stock DP back in for a day to pass an inspection. Not too bad, but a pain.

Hi All,

First of all, thanks to John for contacting us, your timing was impeccable!

If I may, I'd like to introduce ourselves. As you may have guessed we are Fuel-It! and my name is Steve. Like many of you we are enthusiasts that encountered the same problems you are experiencing, just on a slightly different platform. BMW has been our focus but many of the same methodologies (and issues) are shared between the two platforms so naturally the Mini was of interest to us. In addition one of our associates is also a big Mini fan and used to have a highly modified Mini that he tracked regularly. Consequently we recently acquired a 2013 JCW to play and do a little R&D with.

Over the next few months we will be familiarizing ourselves with the platform and exploring the current tuning and hardware options and limitations. I'm sure we'll have a lot of questions for you all, however we hope to provide you with a few answers as well. To get started we have ordered in an LPFP (Low Pressure Fuel Pump) that we'll throw on the test bench to see what the limitations are. At that point we'll share our findings with you all and proceed accordingly. In addition we'll be throwing our totally stock Mini on the dyno to gather some preliminary data. As with our current test vehicles our goal is to run moderate to high concentrations of ethanol to support our performance goals. However, to do so we have to make sure the tuning is in place and if its not what we need to do to facilitate or work with it.

Enough of that for now...we hope to get to know some of you and look forward to seeing what we can do with this thing.

Cheers

Hi Steve,

Welcome to NAM. We're glad to have you aboard. If you picked up a 2013 JCW the vehicle came equipped with a Bosch HPFP. Prior to March 2012 the Mini's came with a Continental fuel pump. The Bosch includes a larger diameter hard line from the HPFP to the fuel rail. Both however have the same size restrictor orifice in the fuel rail to prevent surge. On the N18 the fuel pressure of both pumps can be adjusted via Manic tune. The Bosch pump also differs from the Continental in that it is oiled internally by engine oil that then returns to the head galley.

Normal max pressure is 120 bar but has been raised via tuning to slightly over 200 bar. Per the Bosch spec sheet the bypass should open at 200 bar but that appears to be incorrect as pressures as high as 220 bar have been noted.

Based on anecdotal evidence it appears that flow not pressure may be the issue. So anything you can do in that area will be of great help to the community. To my knowledge you will be the first to closely examine the output of the LPFP which may very well be the weakest link in the chain. In addition, another limitation appears to lie with the injectors. My initial research into this has resulted in a possible replacement candidate however I am waiting on data sheets from a Bosch dealer I work with to confirm pattern and impedance.

Tigger, does the N14 based motors use the Continental fuel pump?

Also is there any chance that their 2013 JCW could be a N14? My Coupe had a build date of Dec 12, stickers as a 13, but had an N14.

Any chance of the Bosch pumps working on an N14?

Yes the N14 uses the Continental fuel pump exclusively. During 2012 BMW jumped back and forth on the N14/N18. You can verify this on RealOEM and AllData if you have access to it. But to my knowledge all of the N18 JCW versions included the Bosch pump.
The ECU's supplied with the pumps are different. If you have an N14 you should have an MEVD17.2 ECU. My current understanding is that this ECU lacks the ability to raise the fuel pressure level. An N18 with a Continental pump will have an MEVD17.2.2 and an N18 with Bosch pump will have an MEVD17.2.7 ECU. Unfortunately the MEVD17.2.2 ECU is incapable of controlling the Bosch pump. I found that out the hard way when I bought a 2014 engine for the build motor for my 2011. The two pumps also have a completely different mechanical interface with the intake camshaft so the camshaft must be matched to the pump.

Very intersested in these results

Hey Tigger,

Thanks for the welcome and the information, we have a lot of homework to do to better familiarize ourselves with the platform.

Looks like they did the same thing with the Mini that they did with the BMW's and went from a swash plate style HPFP to a cam driven HPFP. For the BMW's that was a downgrade and for the new M4's they actually ended up running dual HPFP's from the factory. I'm sure much of that was due to the HPFP failures. However those too may be running out of fuel with moderate mixes of ethanol and a little over 500whp, but we are in the same boat...need to crack the DME to see what is going on. In addition the rail pressures are controlled a bit differently with the different HPFP's (FFCV vs. CPS or "Pulse Generator" ), and I think that may be what you stumbled across. As I said we'll have to do more research to see exactly what has occurred.

At this point as I said we have a lot of homework to do and we are trying to fit that in to our schedule. So for now, we're going to wait until the LPFP comes in and start there since that is where it all begins. From that point we'll work our way forward.

I know John is talking to Manic and we'll have to talk with them further. We have to make sure the tuning is in place, we are able to work with them, and frankly that there is enough demand before proceeding.

In addition to the LPFP coming, we have also scheduled to dyno our Mini this Thursday to get the stock baseline.

Thanks,
Steve

Yep that's exactly what I ran into. A lot of head scratching and tinkering ensued before we figured it out.

Good luck on the baseline.

While we wait for that exciting report I have some questions about the Manic tunes:

-Is the throttle map linear in both 'normal' and 'sport' mode?
-While we're talking about 'sport' mode, can the steering assist level be customized (both in normal and sport mode)?
-Is the engine now programmed to run at 90 deg C all the time or just more often than stock?
-What is the purpose of the 'cold start delete'? Is that when the engine is louder for the first 15 seconds after bone cold startup? I kinda like that :D

Thanks!

Not to interrupt the current HPFP issue talk, but one true solution that is achievable Via the Manic tune is to run a sweet Meth set up...

Here is my immediate solution:




I formally introduce you to :

I also like the cold start feature. I don't have it with my tune and wish I had it back. I am not sure why it is removed.

Nick doesn't like unnecessary noise.

For anyone with high rpm at idle (1k plus) after operating temp, Nick has a fix. Just call your Manic dealer and ask for the fix. They should reflash it for you.

am i correct in saying cold start is normally 'engaged' only until the catalytic converter warms up?

heck, i wouldn't mind if while in 'sport' mode 'cold start' is active at idle, only, all the time. but i'm sure there are reasons why that wouldn't be a good idea besides noise.