Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Installing the FrankenTurbo

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Old 01-05-2014, 09:18 AM
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Installing the FrankenTurbo

Hi, I am currently installing a FrankenTurbo F21 and JZW Tune. I have enjoyed all the great ideas on the forum so I thought I should try and balance the Karma.
My Stock 07 MCS was running well when I decided to tackle the turbo oil line. Of course I didn't have to take the turbo out but its only a few bolts more, and once out I found more play than I liked so I decided to replace it. I considered rebuilt, new, new jcw, and hybrid. The F21 comes with lots of upgrades, custom inlet pipe, pierburg 710 diverter valve, and I liked the good customer service.

Unboxing- the Turbo came really well packed, a big plus in my book.
Installing the FrankenTurbo-p1010203-2.jpgInstalling the FrankenTurbo-p1010207-2.jpgInstalling the FrankenTurbo-p1010211-2.jpg
The Peirburg 710 diverter has a different connector so I braided up the supplied parts and will either solder it in or find a snap in part (I added the black wire).



I cleaned up the manifold with a walnut blaster. I like it better than chemicals. A couple of quick blasts and casting details are uncovered.



Here is the turbo mounted to manifold.



With the Turbo out its easy to change the oil cooler-filter housing seals, I would recommend giving it a go, I found some scale in the coolant inlet, and there are lots of small passages in there (I also changed my heat exchanger)
Be sure to clean out the passages to the block.



Hi.At this point I should have posted my results, but my engine turned out to be in need of a rebuild. After spending a good bit of time with my internal engine parts I do have some suggestions for anyone wanting to tune the N14.

First off I did a compression test with the engine warm and got ok results. My Hondas with similar results had good internals. With the MINI's N14 this did not hold true. I should have done a leak-down test cold. My experience with leak down tests on engines that have any miles on them has been that they need a lot of guess work interpreting them.... One of my favorite engines had bad leak down results but ran great and had good insides.

Second the carbon deposits were some of the toughest I have ever encountered I've cleaned exhaust valves before and these were the toughest. I think it may be that the direct injection running in super lean mode is mixing (reacting) with the PCV oil vapors in a way I've not seen before. So besides the whole issue of blocked up intakes the PCV system could be adversely affecting the rest of your engine. There is plenty of discussion on the PCV system elsewhere but if your going to tune I think this really needs to be fixed. I am deleting the rear hose and adding a catch can and a filter with a blow out valve. So if you think your internals are good do everything you can to clean your combustion tract.

If you think you have internal work to do I would go with an engine pull, its probably easier in the end and you will be able to go over everything. If you do get into a rebuild, not everything is available aftermarket so make a complete list and shop for for parts first (check availability as well). I do want to say that there is a lot I do like about the N14 I think it will be a good platform to work off of. As soon as I am able I will post results.

Currently my block is back from being honed but I am stuck on bearing selection there are some codes that my block seems to be missing so I may have to order a few different sizes to test.
 

Last edited by Euler-Spiral; 03-30-2014 at 10:38 AM. Reason: continuation
  #2  
Old 01-07-2014, 12:44 AM
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How's the tune with the new turbo?
 
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:43 AM
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Hi, Its a bit Slow. I missed a good chance to do figure 8's in the snow with the mini...... I was walnut blasting the intake and exhaust valves so that I would have as much flow as possible (at least what you can get unported). When I found #2 cylinder was not sealing at the 1'st valve. I don't think its a burnt or bent valve as I had full power going into the garage. ( I was able to pass uphill with a nice size compressor and tools in the back and no miss firing) I blew out and vac-ed the valve to be sure there is no crud. That leaves lifter (hydo/pushrod). I will be working on it in the next few days along with the wiring harness.
 
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Euler-Spiral
Hi, Its a bit Slow. I missed a good chance to do figure 8's in the snow with the mini...... I was walnut blasting the intake and exhaust valves so that I would have as much flow as possible (at least what you can get unported). When I found #2 cylinder was not sealing at the 1'st valve. I don't think its a burnt or bent valve as I had full power going into the garage. ( I was able to pass uphill with a nice size compressor and tools in the back and no miss firing) I blew out and vac-ed the valve to be sure there is no crud. That leaves lifter (hydo/pushrod). I will be working on it in the next few days along with the wiring harness.
what?
 
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:55 PM
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I had a sticky exhaust lifter that was not leaking down properly. On start up this will usually clear for some time but eventually will lead to a burnt valve. I have been waiting for parts, they should be in soon and I will continue the build.
 
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Old 01-23-2014, 12:12 PM
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Looking good! How much does this cost and where are you installing it? DIY?
 
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:18 PM
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Please give a review of the JZW tune. His normal price is the sam as the goup buy for the DNA Tuner.
 
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:11 PM
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The FrankenTurbo F21 turbo was $1200 the JZW tune is $600 you need the tune if you want to get the most out of the turbo. I have worked on my own cars for many years now. I am still waiting for my lifters, they finally shipped and should be in soon. (fingers crossed) I will post all the results as I get them. Note: the JZW tune will be for the FrankenTurbo but he also has stock tunes.
 
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