That's why when I got my car dyno tuned by rmw, I ask for a good, safe tune...think he saw the baby seat in the back....
I got a great tq gain (you have seen my sheets), and it is a joy to drive at normal street rpms of 2800-4500 rpms in cruise....great up high....but it never felt "lacking" down low after the tune. Some folks get tunes and dyno to as some odd act of competition (mine is bigger than yours, etc)....some in the desire to compete get a less safe or road optimized "race" tune...great top end...maybe a bit leaner..who knows.
What I know is I TOLD my tuner (Jan at RMW) what I wanted, and he delivered.

Ditto the curious on how things went...
We don't get to see many higher mile mini's dyno as of late...
It is always good too see how motors do as they age....and the electric water pump mod adds an interesting thing to the mix!!

 

RMW has tuned a bazillion cars, and for a DD it will be a safe tune...

As for Dyno numbers, it depends on ambient temps, gear selection, redline, etc. etc. Don't get caught up in numbers--they're very easy to fudge, get caught up in deltas. Give your tuner your goals and they'll hit them if they know what they're doing.

 

I had to cancel the dyno... I need to replace a front wheel bearing now.... So Im going to replace both then make another appointment.

 

Smart move. I replaced the driver's side a month ago, passenger side is shot now. 25,500 miles, but most of those are track miles..... Should've done them both at the same time, would've saved some time. It's PITA, but with an impact wrench and a second set of hands, a rubber mallet and a whole bunch of pounding and swearing it's doable. If your hub assembly is shot, make sure you take a good look at your CV joints too.

 

Nooooooo.... Whyyyy sponge bob Whyyyyyyy....Why did you have to mention CV joints because I was trying my best not to mention those and get jinxed. Like when you some some friends are going out and you dont want a certain other friend to show up because they always screw things up and you know if you say their name they are going to some how, well, "Show Up". So you just skirt around and try not to say their name but everyone knows who it is. lol

Well I better look up CV joints for both sides now just incase. lol

 

LMAO--for the record, both my hub assemblies were shot, but the cv joints appear fine. For now.....

 

I am going to use Timken bearings on both sides when I replace the HUB bearings and the CV axles. I am trying to source out a better price. I do have a local bearing distributor that I was able to use the last time on a different project that saved me almost fifty dollars on a single bearing and he had it in stock.

 

Im just going to repost this from the dyne thread.

Here is my dyno results for the baseline with no Tune yet. Pulled in third gear 2000-7000rpm

2005 R53 94,000mi
2600 ft above sea level

- WMW 15% pulley with proper belt
- Electric water pump
- 380cc JCW OEM injectors
- 1 ball exhaust
- Modified CAI
- 92 Octane with 10% alcohol

1st Pull - 53.31 F, 27.19 in-Hg, Humidity 47%, SAE: 1.07, 183hp and 163 ft-lbs

The first pull was the best of all three. I was able to do a total of three pulls.

I wasn't very happy with it because they did not have a fan to place over the IC and the fan they did use was to far away so I had some heat soak hitting pretty hard.

Next time I will arrange for a proper fan. But I still have mods to do so this is just the baseline.

 

preety solid numbers

 

Did they log AFR? I'm interested to see the AFR on untuned yet modified cars, with or without 380cc injectors. Anyhow, nice numbers ! A tune and header would get you to 200whp.

 

They didn't monitor it because that would have been considered a tune dyno and would have been a lot more money. Bummer though.

Ive got the OBX-R header waiting in my room and the exhaust in the garage ready to be installed. I just have to decide if I want to go with a more OEM piping approach (wrapping around the battery box) or the R56 (remove the battery box and straight through).

There are also some other mods, upgrades, and additions waiting to be added.

 

I did not read all the post in the thread but the first couple where right on the money as with similar mods and NO TUNE I made 177whp.

When I was done with a tune and cam I made 200whp

and with Meth I made 205whp.

Original Mods:

380cc JCW Injectors
JCW Plugs
OBX Header (no cat)
CAI
15% pulley
Cheap *** IE Exhaust



In this second dyno sheet I had added:

RMW Dominator Cam (low end torque street cam)
AquaMist Water Meth
RMW Tune




The thing to remember with my car is that it is an AUTOMATIC, so my parasitic loss is higher.

 

183whp on those mods is a solid number

Looking at your graphs, the heat-soaking is clearly visible. Did they allow you to cool the IC down in between runs with water?

Also, at 6100rpm, you can see the power dips down and drops off... with a proper tune, it's quite possible to get your car to near 200whp on your current mods.

It's surprising that the dyno shop won't log AFR That would give you a lot more valuable info to see if the car was leaning out at high rpm. Maybe consider finding a different dyno shop in the future?

When we do give customer dyno runs, we ALWAYS give them the AFR readings b/c that's the whole point of doing dyno pulls - to gather as much info as possible about the running condition of the car.

Just me...

 

I am hoping to pick up another 5-7hp with the addition of the OBX-R header and the new straight pipe exhaust (R56 style) and dynomax muffler.

I want to add an AFR gauge but haven't settled on a system. I want to go with the Vi-pec module for the R53. But now I am also considering the Sprintex for a few hundred more dollars.


We did a couple test runs before doing the based runs. They did not have the fan on which ticked me off. Then he added the fan after the first run because the second pull is where the numbers began to drop. His boss came out and said you need to have the fan on with these because of heat soak. He did not have a fan over the intercooler nor did he have water to help cool things off. I will be going back to the same machine and this time things will be done my way otherwise they won't be getting paid.

 

Be wary of making your exhaust too open and free-flowing. I won't use the term "backpressure" here, because it's overused and somewhat incorrect, but you want to maintain an ideal exhaust velocity, and a large, straight exhaust may not be the answer.

Don't over-think the AFR gauge, man. Just grab an AEM UEGO for $150.

 

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