Update:

I was downing my Mini for other mods but my truck has been disabled for another project so this is the only vehicle I have. So I have been driving it every day.

So its been over five months and the car still works great with the new water pump. I still have it on a manual switch. I intend on running a wire to the fuse box but haven't looked anything up to see what fuse it needs to be wired to. So if anyone has this information let me know where you attached yours.

Issues Ive had. The relay sent to me overheated a few times. That in turn created issues with the water pump. The voltage was dropped to the point that the water pump was off or turning so slow it would not function. Which made my car over heat because there was no water flow. I replaced the relay with a quality HELLA reply meant for higher amps and haven't had an issue since. That is the only problem Ive had.

It does take a little bit longer to warm up with the temps below 30F. And when I hit the highway with the heater on hi the water temps drop down to the point I wish I has either went with a smaller restrictor or thermostat. In regular traffic its not an issue what so ever. Just when I am going over 45 mph for long periods of time. I have not noticed any change in my fuel economy but then again I love driving my R53 and so I have a heavy foot.

Recent base line dyne with mods I have now are as follows, 183hp and 163 ft-lbs, and can be found in a couple other threads.


https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...intment-2.html Post #33

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-charts-3.html Post #54

 

Good update, Raven. Why not follow how the Sprintex kit wires the pump up?
http://www.sprintex.com.au/wp-conten...t-sign-off.pdf

 

The company that provides the water pump for the sprintex kit sales a controller that works with the WP and Fan. Its like 200 bucks. I have been wanting to go with a Vi-Pec R53 module so I felt the 200 bucks would be better spent on the Vi-pec.

I have also thought about going with the Sprintex kit because its not much more but then I would still be with the factory ECU and not be able to tune and make adjustments on my own.

 

Yeah, but the sprintex kit does not use the controller you mentioned. Blwn just wired his according to Sprintex instructions. If you haven't gone Vi-pec yet, then you can temporarily set it up like his.

 

I am adding them to the thread now.

 

Hoping Moderators would sticky this. Great job, Raven!

 

Thanks... I just want to be sure that everyone can see how it is done and do it on their own rather then paying a shop. Money saved is money earned for future projects.

 

That's the credo of a true MINIon.........aside from NO RAGRETS!

MINI On, Raven Mocker!

 

Hi Raven, great thread on converting to EWP. I'm planning on doing this conversion over Xmas but have a couple of questions I hoped you could answer. The Copper in-line tube you used in the lower radiator hose for the return line, did you fit this in place of the smaller hose fitting that runs off the OEM water pump? Is the return line hose nipple 1/2"?
Also, is coolant flow from the water pump to the radiator or from the water pump to the block?
Cheers

 

I have the EWP 80, and plan to install in soon, like in the next week or two. I have parts trickling-in over the next few days...

I had planned to use the stock t-stat, but the instructions explicitly state to not use it. At least that is what I thought I had read. One would tend to think that it would work just fine. If anyone as has this water pump working well with the MINI's t-stat, do share...

EDIT / ADD: Just found the Sprintex install instructions again, and the only mention of thermostat is when referencing the nearby coolant bleed screw location... So, I'll keep the t-stat, which I put a new on in earlier this year.



As I finalize the connections, 1/2" heater hose should not be used, at least on my MCS. The correct size is 5/8". I tried several trick to stretch 1/2" to fit, and it was clear that it would not be easy... So, I'm using a 5/8" x 1/2" adaptor so I can mate-up with the tee...

 

Hey TonyB,
I've been researching this also. The Sprintex system keeps the thermostat and a few people I've spoken to have either kept the thermostat which has worked fine for them or use the electronic controller. People who have used the controller have said that it can take longer to get to running temp and keep at running temp in winter. I live in the tropics so that's not an issue for me. I'll be running the thermostat and maybe drill a 3mm hole in it for warm up water bypass.

 

I appreciate the reply Pablopaha.

I've been running it here with the stock t-stat, and it's doing quite well alright. I've been wanting to do this for a while, so the OEM pump (or gear) failure was a blessing in disguise. Thankfully no damage as I monitor coolant and oil temps while driving...

 

Tony nice work,


Thanks everyone for keeping the thread alive. Ive been away as my Mini was in an accident earlier this year. She did a beautiful job at protecting my daughter and myself from harm. I was hit really hard by an SUV and the only thing we remember about the accident is the loud bang of the airbag system going off. The Mini hugged us both in our seats until it was over. Zero broken limbs or head injuries. I was very very impressed by how well the Mini did..

Ok onto business. Being I no longer have the Mini Id like to say that this mod was very well accepted by the R53. It made a difference in the power band on my car. Not that it will on yours but i noticed the SC spooling up faster. You can look at my Dyno which was done without an exhaust system and zero tune. I know if Id been able to add my other mods and upgrades that number would be well over 200 without a water injection or ethanol. Some might say nay but I feel that number could have been reached with just the addition of the OBX header and straight exhaust with muffler, the other mods and a tune.


I have been thinking on what route I will be taking next in the Mini world. I currently have a deal on the table for an 1964 Austin Mini Classic. If things go as planned I will be staying as much Mini and BMW as possible. So I want to us the R53's W11 engine in this project.

 

Hey Tony, your setup looks good. I'm waiting on some bits to arrive so I can do the EWP mod also. Have you fitted yours yet? Do you have any pics? Have you noticed much of a difference?
Cheers
Paul

 

I just finished installing my Davies Craig EWP80. Wired it up as diagramed here. Nothing. Pulled the wires out and tied the hot wire and switch leg together and ran them strait to the 12V hot in the fuse block. Still nothing.

I used to be a licensed electrician so I know how a simple switch system works. Connecting the green and red strait to the power should instantly power it up.

Am I missing something or is my pump DOA? Has anyone else gotten a DOA pump from Davies Craig?

After all the time and money I spent rigging this thing up, I was excited to finish it up today. I've owned the car for 6 months and only drove it for THREE days. I was very disappointed when I went to fire her up and the pump wasn't working. I'm at my wits end with this car.

 

First things first.
-I would test the motor on its own. That means without the relay harness. Just test it direct to see if the motor is running.
-Also using an DMM test the 12VDC voltage you are using.
-The black is ground and yes the other two being connected with 12VDC will turn the motor on.
-Make sure your ground source is bare metal.
- If you have 12VDC going to the relay then and it is still not working replace the relay on the relay harness. The one I had come in the kit was a pos and ran at times but also got hot fast.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

Where would I find a new relay?

 

The pump runs when wired directly.
It also runs through the relay when I connect the hot and the switch leg.
It doesn't run when the switch leg is run to terminal 5 and I get no voltage reading through the wiring harness when the key is on.
I do get a voltage reading when I use the mulitmeter pins straight from the hot lug to terminal 5 even when the key is not in the ignition.

I'm BAFFLED by this. I've wired up WAY more complex systems than this back in my days as an electrician, this should be a piece of cake. WTF?

 

New problems now. All this poking and prodding has screwed something up. The car won't start. The driver window rolls down when the key is turned. When the window switches are pressed the it kills the power to the radio and the gas gauge starts clicking and shuddering. And god knows what else is going on...

 

I am not certain why you would have these issues unless by accident some other wires had been touched when poking around in the harnesses.

There would still be power read after the key is off on pin five for a limited time as it stays on. Testing it a few minutes after the key has been turned off for voltage.

 

I blew a fuse. It seems that was what caused all of those issues. Replacing the fuse fixed it.

In any case I can't get the pump to run at all unless both the green and the red are connected to the hot terminal. When I wire it up like it's supposed to be, it won't run even though I read voltage to pin 5.

At this point I think I'm considering wiring the pump to a manual switch.

 

The cars been off for well over an hour. Went out and metered pin 5 and it still showed 13.5V.

I ran some wire inside, just gotta figure out a way to mount this switch.

 

Not sure why you'd have a continual 5VDC on pin 5. Maybe someone else might have the answer.

 

Beats me. I've checked and rechecked. It always shows voltage. All of them do. On another downside I was taking the bolt out of the hot terminal and it fell somewhere into the abyss. I pulled the whole fuse block out and it has just disappeared. Probably fell into something important so when I start it up the the whole motor is going fall apart into a million pieces.

This car is seriously cursed.

 

Anybody know what the correct size bolt is for this?
Screen Shot 2014-12-04 at 6.17.43 PM by _JDT0505, on Flickr