I have a question (and I apologize if it is a stupid one) -- Is it possible to not remove/modify the water pump and install the EWP inline at the lower radiator hose? I'm not wanting to complete this project to save HP or anything like that, but rather because my PRO gears are making a ton of noise so I am preparing for the impending demise of my water pump's functionality.

 

It's actually not a stupid question at all, esp if you've never had these components apart before.
Unfortunately the answer is no. One of the widely misunderstood things about this is that "the W/P is going bad", it's actually not the W/P at all, it's the drive gears for the W/P that are attached to the S/C gear shafts.
So leaving it alone or simply even removing the W/P won't correct the issue.

 

Thank you for your response. I do realize that the gears are the issue, and as of now it is still working. However, if the gears only drive the water pump, won't water still flow by placing the EWP inline? Or is the issue the fact that thermostat closing would block the flow of the EWP and the only location where flow is bypassed is where the water pump is mounted? Again, I apologize if I sound ignorant; I am just trying to do the minimal amount of work (and spend the smallest amount of money) to keep my R53 on the road. Really disappointed my R53 only has 77k miles and is having this issue. Thank you again for your help and expertise!

 

While it would be possible to leave everything intact and bypass the OEM W/P, you're banking on the gear set and all the other moving pieces to simply wear away, and everything to continue to work smoothly, with no collateral internal damage in that rear housing.
Plus remember, this whole problem is due to a lack of oil from a rear seal that has worn, and allowed oil to seep into the S/C rotor housing. So you wouldn't be addressing that issue at all.

And yes, even with an EWP, having proper placement in the system as a whole is also necessary.

Unfortunately, short of simply pulling the S/C, and refilling the rear section with oil and simply hoping for the best, there it's no inexpensive fix.

 

Hi all, I'm considering doing this on my Mini and wondered, instead of welding a bung to the block flange, can the elbow flange off an r50 be used?

 

This is an excellent question and deserves a good answer Use of the OE R50 elbow flange having a smaller inner dia than the OE R53 flange presents several problems:

1) An increase in pressure head to a point where it likely decreases the EWP pump life. But since all the posters in this thread don't seem to care about this problem and prefer to run their pumps full-time w/o a controller anyway (DC claims 2X on pump life w/ controller), this one may not be a problem for you. Esp if you're just tracking the car or it's not used daily for a long-commute or road trip.
2) A proper bunged reducer, and two short heater hoses, will be required (from the larger lower radiator hose end), increasing the clamps/connections (leak points) by 3.
3) The 90 deg elbow and shelf feature on the engine block may pose a hose routing problem, requiring another elbow and further increasing pressure head.
4) Doesn't make financial sense, at least it didn't several years ago, as compared with the parts/labor costs (from machine shop to remove the ring gear, reinstall the spindle, and weld the bung): OE part cost $45 vs ~$28 for parts/labor if original flange is reused, but YMMV by machine shop availability.

 

Trying to follow along with this in preparation, but I'm disinclined to drill the thermostat if it's not absolutely necessary. Can the EWP80 (with or without controller) be run with the stock unmodified t-stat?

edit: sorry, posted in a rush. Came back and saw post #55, guess it's fine with it. I'd prefer to use the controller if I can get it cheap enough, but I don't think that'll really change much of operation with a un-modified thermostat

 

I didn't re-read the thread, but as an FYI, there's no reason for a controller, modified thermostat, nothing... With the EWP80
Once you have the plumbing sorted, simply wire it direct to battery with a relay switched by ignition or better yet ECU power, simple as that.

 

Bear with me here, I'm not half as clever as you guys with this stuff. Just trying to fix up for a reliable and somewhat spirited grocery-getter.

Running the EWP at full speed against an un-modified thermostat seems odd to me. Wouldn't it build up enough pressure to eventually mess up the pump? I've read a few early criticism of DC's pumps being the shaft seal, as it would start leaking after running against a closed thermostat for too long.. or something like that. I imagine there must be some sort of bypass somewhere, because you'd run into the same problem with the stock pump. I noticed you're one of the posters that's actually swapped in the EWP, so it seems really dumb for me to argue with you - guess I'm just trying to get my head around it all so I know what to do, and more importantly, the why.

Either way, second question: The heater hose return is joined to the system via a t-shaped fitting before the EWP, correct? Pablopaha mentioned their junction in post #61, but I wasn't 100% clear on it and figured I'd make sure.

 

Correct on the first part, there is no difference running the EWP -vs OEM, the bypass system works the same.
As for the heater hose, mine is run with the inlet to the pump in the same housing (This is the way the Sprintex kit was designed) so yes without the specially designed housing that I have, it's simply T'd in the system between the pump and the radiator hose
I'll try and get a close up pic sometime this weekend.

*edit

 

The T-junction goes between the pump and the block? That's interesting, I would have thought it'd go behind the pump. Does it feed there just to keep as much as heat as possible in the closed loop until the thermostat has opened, to warm the cabin as well as the block?

 

Ok, now you have me questioning it's location, honestly it's become such a normal thing for me to work with, I really do many things as habit instead of playing close attention to it.
My intake is off right now having some work done on it, I'll grab a good close pic tonight after work and post it up.

 

Haha, I know that feeling well! Could you also grab a picture of the block inlet area and its clearance in relation to the supercharger? I think you have the Sprintex so I know it won't be the exact same, but I'm trying to get an idea of how much space I have to work with the bung off the block adapter, and whether or not the bung can come straight out or if it should be angled off to the driver side.

 

Edited the earlier post, I did remember it being on the wrong housing.

Here's a pic of how it's plumbed, Block - Pump - heater and Lower Radiator Hose.


Sorry but I can't help with the relationship to the S/C and Inlet Piping, no more S/C, I just fabbed a bracket so it worked in the same location to be able to use those housings.

 

That's perfect really. I doubt there'll be as much room with everything else bolted back into place, but it's clear and easy to replicate. Out of curiousity, why not mount the EWP lower? Or are the benefits (lower workload, slightly cooler, etc) just too minute to warrant it?

 

No reason pertaining to its performance, it was shear logistics and ease of use.
On the one hand it was simpler to just fab a mounting bracket and retain the o-ring junction at the block used by Sprintex, than to fab a new engine block mounting flange and re-plumb everything.
Secondly, there is also limited space in my setup as well, because of the location of the intercooler and retention of my A/C .

Check out the Sprintex installation instructions on their website and it will give you pics on how they mount it and possibly an even better look in relationship to their S/C.

 

Is there anyway That I can just leave the "Factory" "Stock" thermostat setup there without the drilling of the 5mm hole or the complete removal or using the computer controller? I live in Hawaii and it's 80 and sunny all the time.

If there is a drawback to leaving it stock what would it be?

Mahalo

 

Look at post #82 & #83 above.
There's really no reason that I can see or have run into, to do either modification.

 

Many Mahalos! Lmao....I've read this several times and have gone over it even more. That being said again many thanks! This should be really simple but in Hawaii nothing is simple.
Thanks Again

 

To address another issue mentioned above, life of the pump.
I can't attest to overall life running it full speed all the time, but I can say that my first one lasted about 40,000 miles before I changed it, but it also sat unused for 3 years as well, who knows what happens to those parts after working in antifreeze for that many miles and just sitting after that. It did however still work, just made a little more bearing noise thank I was comfortable with on a brand new engine. Plus for $150 it was cheap insurance to replace.

Along those lines, if you can find an easily accessible mounting point for it, all the better if you do have a problem.

 

Does anybody know if there is an adapter for the inlet and outlet of the EWP80 pump? I am currently in the process of replacing my supercharger water pump and would love some insight or information on any adapter. Or if anybody knows who, if any, is manufacturing the two adapters for the EWP80 pump to accommodate a 2003 Mini Cooper S?

 

The only adaptors for the Mini specifically that I know of are from Sprintex and designed for their kit.

The EWP80 "kit" comes with a generic inlet and outlet though, but they are only for the pump, not for the motor.

 

I did see that the EWP80 kit comes with pump adapters and was hoping someone in here had an option to mount the pump similar to what Sprintex does on their kit.
Oh well, thanks BlwnAway.

 

Lets bring this sucker back to life!!! I have an ewp115 with lcd controller I'm going to be installing next week to prep for my M62 swap... Anybody else out here got an ewp's going in soon??

 

Well I for one, am all too happy to revive this thread, esp since I'M also about to install a DC EWP80 in my '05 R53 after it's clutch is replaced and I can provide helpful info for the EWP installs done on manual trannys as well )

I'm also pleased to report that the Imperial MINI EWP System installed in post #65 above is still running strong going on 6 years now! My wife recently decided to downsize her car collection for the precious garage space and sell this 2006 MINI Cooper S with the EWP system:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co.../market/359339

Thanks to all on this thread for the great info and photos, and I hope this awesome MINI (MINI-ME 2) finds a good home with a like-minded enthusiast!