I have the R56 wich is the 2013 mini cooper S. I see that some addons give it a boost of power. Like the charger pulley wheel 15% give the car about 10HP.

The ECU chips add 15-30 HP. then the Exhaust and such.

Is there anyone keeping tabs on true horse power gains?

 

1st if you have a 2013 R56 that does not have a supercharger pulley because your MINI has a turbo.

As far as the ECU on your R56, you do not have a chip you have to have the ECU reprogrammed and that is a hot debate on many threads.

Here is one for your reading pleasure
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...n18-minis.html

The usual add on with minimal gains are
Cold air kit
Catback exhaust, downpipe

Hope this helps.

 

just remember not to magazine race

 

If you're going to mod, it's not as simple as add x, get y. Unless all you add is x.

It really depends on how what you put on the car works together--some combinations work great, others don't, and each car is different with regard to how much HP it's making at the wheels unmodified, and how of a gain it will get from a given part.

Whatever you do, tie altogether with a tune.

First, set your goals. Then start figuring out how to get there, it's much easier than adding cookie cutter parts and expecting certain gains. You can still add parts in a step-wise fashion and make it all work, but it's much easier, and you'll get more help, if you lay down exactly what you want from car from the beginning.

The R53 is an easier platform to mod than the R56; they are apples and oranges. Not that the R56 can't make some impressive gains, but the difference between the turbocharged engine you have, and the supercharged engine of the R53 is ginormous.

 

Sounds like you need to read a bit...
read and learn...you can save big $$ by reading and learning!!
Simply put, EVERY car is different, and there are THOUSANDS of different combo's of add-on parts.....
As you upgrade ONE part, a different part is now the one holding you back....
so many parts are often done in combo....
and remember some mods are a compromise.... some make more HP, but MOVE the HP to a higher rpm...great for a race car, bad for the street!!
That is why there is no "best mod" for everybody...depends on how you drive!!
And in looking for mods, remember you have a GEN2 car...a TURBO...and pretty sure you have the N18 motor (I'm not a gen2 guy but pretty sure), which is STILL in the EARLY STAGES of tuning......still no ODB2 tuning that is.

 

Damn, I didn't realize I thought that wheel was for the Turbo set up. And all I want is about 250 to the wheels. Yes my car is a brand new Turbo S hardtop. So what I need to know is Combos that people are using that work.

 

So I cant buy a chip tune? I thought they have one for my car they ship to me to program plug and play for like 679.00?

 

if you don't even know that a pully is for a s/c not a turbo you need to not touch your car and read a LOT

 

I am not a mechanic, I am a driver. I would never touch the car. All I know is that this car is a slow car compared to my previous cars. I bought it cause it is fun to drive. but slow. I want to spend Money to make it faster. NO I don't have the time to sit here and read every forum for months. Sorry I am New. Just thought I would get a lil help into spending thousands of dollars.

 

Just go to a shop that specializes that & since you are in FL you have 2 specialized shops that you can go to. BTW no one here cares you are spending thousands of dollars, especially, since you don't want to take the time to educate yourself, but the aforementioned shops will care. Happy motoring

 

Call a vendor you trust. Best way to get there. You definitely need to do some reading first.

Don't waste your money on a chip. They tend to be more trouble than they're worth.

I'd recommend giving Jan at RMW a call as a starting point, but if there's someone in your area (I don't know how close Maitland imports is to you, but it's in Florida), that would be a good place to start too. Just make sure you check out whomever you choose to go to--much snake oil out there in the MINI world.

Thing is, the MINI is about handling first, power second. Not that you can't get power out of it, but even modified the MINI isn't really about a straight line dragrace (Unless you live across the pond), it's more about agility on the twisty stuff. It's about driving, not accelerating. If you want blistering straight line speed, cut your losses and go to another platform. The MINI is more in spirit with a Miata than a Mustang.

 

Here is a something that is causing again a hot debate.
http://www.minidynamics.com/RaceChip...p-ultimate.htm


Again for your reading pleasure
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...group-buy.html

 

Wow, yeah what headaches. Well I talked to Rennteck here in Florida west palm beach about 3 hours away, they charge over 1,000 with tax just for tune, but it seems worth it.

 

remember, a TUNE is THE ENDING POINT..not the start of modding!!
A tune brings all the parts together efficiently...
a tune is very car and mod specfic....if you tune first...you may cause MAJOR issues when you add more mods without a tune ASAP.....think burnt pistons, etc..big $$ items.
First you add parts...gain some power...either all at once or as $$ allows...
THEN YOU TUNE. The tune will make things work together, and make MORE POWER.

 

For some people, a tune IS the endpoint--its all they need, and it's the biggest bang for the buck, and safest mod you can do, if you're planning on only doing one thing. Easy to get significant, although not dramatic, HP and torque gains, not to mention smoothing out the engine.

Modding goes from the simple to the extreme. A tune is worth it, even if you aren't adding parts.

But if you are putting on pieces, that's why I wrote several posts above yours, tie it all together with a tune if you're adding parts....

 

for 250 to the wheels...
I'm thinking the "usual" bolts ons, then a tune...
for a n18 tune, the ecu is taken OUT, and modified....
No handheld tuner for the n18...
and for the $675 "chip"...the MAIN poster in that thread you read about reported a HP LOSS!!
Now you know WHY it is on sale!!

 

Many of the good tuners aren't even bothering with the N18 because it's too much of a pain, takes too much time, with too many potential headaches. You might have to do some searching around.

 

Not to mention that MINI is changing the engine again. So I don't think many tuners are going to mess with the N18 now.

 

For the turbo you want to allow it to breathe better, larger intercooler, better intake, less restrictive plumbing. These will help provide better response.

 

I heard that if you put an intake and exhaust your MINI will run 10s in the quarter.

 

LOL....remember, the OP ONLY wants 250 HP from a MINI.....
To the OP...the MINI is more about handling than pure speed....
I think you might find more than 225 gets kinda $$ in parts and tires!!
The newer motors are HIGHLY engineered.....and just not that much in them unless you rebuild it from the block up...unless you don't mind cracking a piston in a year or so (the stock pistons tend to crack around the skirt area at higher boost levels with custom tunes)....
I'm no expert on gen2 motors. but 250 is POSSIBLE, but reliability becomes an issue unless you have spent more than a "couple thousand dollars"....besides, % wise stock to 250 HP is a HUGE gain.....
May I suggest looking here....
http://www.waymotorworks.com/07-10-cooper-r56/
just pay attention to the YEAR r56 gen2 S...there was a MOTOR change from the n14 to the n18 a couple of years ago...adding VANOS.

 

 

^^^, lol

 

If your in Florida there is an awesome tuner in Miami who only works on BMW and Mini. The shop is called PAW Motorsports and the owner Louis is a mad scientist when it comes to the engines on these things. ECU tune with him is about $750 and it is done custom for each car on a dyno and set to your preferred driving style.
For your goal of 250 you'll have to add quite a bit if you want to create a safe operational environment for your engine. I'd suggest: Catback Exhaust, JCW Manifold, JCW intake (cold air intakes in FL will make you loose power), Silicone Hot and Cold side intercooler hoses, intercooler (a must and don't go for a cheap one.) For your N18 engine I'd also suggest swapping the turbo for a factory JCW Bogg-Warner model. ($1100-$1350) It will create the same boost, but spool quicker and hold max boost longer. I'm in FL too, PM me if you need to bounce some ideas off of someone.

 

Any info on Paw? the complete name and phone number?