Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain clutch/brake bleeding

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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 03:41 PM
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kadaj's Avatar
kadaj
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clutch/brake bleeding

hello

I plan on bleeding my brakes this weekend and also do the clutch while im at it... can someone please help me with the clutch, is it the same process as the brakes? where is the valve located? is the master cylinder the same as the brake fluid?

Thank you
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 06:47 PM
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any links to DIY? anything?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 06:57 PM
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Maybe this will help
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ing_Brakes.htm

As far as the clutch. Don't do it unless you are 100% sure you are prepared.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...he-clutch.html
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 06:59 PM
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Here is a video if you attempt it.

http://videos.doityourself.com/video...Tips-208498217
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 07:36 PM
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well i wanted to do it cuz it feels smushy... bvut you scared me... idt ill do it
 
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 04:22 AM
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If you want to bleed the clutch slave correctly, you'll need something to hold the plunger in while you use a power bleeder and then open the bleeder screw.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 05:25 AM
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From: Hickory,NC
Originally Posted by countryboyshane
If you want to bleed the clutch slave correctly, you'll need something to hold the plunger in while you use a power bleeder and then open the bleeder screw.
This part is critical. I unbolted the slave and used two long bolts, two wing nuts and a metal strip with holes drilled for the bolts and a larger hole drilled for the slave piston to seat in. Make sure to angle the bleed screw upward when bleeding so any trapped air has an easy exit route. All the nuts bolts etc were less than 5.00 at my local hardware store. The wing nuts made it pretty easy to compress the piston. Good luck. It's pretty easy and can really make a difference in feel. I trust you will be flushing all the brake fluid at the same time, right?

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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 07:29 AM
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The clutch bleed is not what I would consider a good candidate for a DIY job. If it goes wrong, you've got a huge headache. Read the various threads on it before attempting.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Swimbaxter
This part is critical. I unbolted the slave and used two long bolts, two wing nuts and a metal strip with holes drilled for the bolts and a larger hole drilled for the slave piston to seat in. Make sure to angle the bleed screw upward when bleeding so any trapped air has an easy exit route. All the nuts bolts etc were less than 5.00 at my local hardware store. The wing nuts made it pretty easy to compress the piston. Good luck. It's pretty easy and can really make a difference in feel. I trust you will be flushing all the brake fluid at the same time, right?

Sent from my iPad using NAMotoring
sent you a pm!
 
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 08:43 AM
  #10  
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screwed up clutch bleeding

I screw up the clutch bleed by first not removing the slave and second by not having fluid in the bleed hose before opening the valve. Result was a pedal that went right to the floor without any resistance. I then removed the slave and compressed as described in another post. I tried pressing and very slowly releasing the pedal alternating with the valve open/closed. No matter how slowly I released the pedal air was being drawn into the system which I later figured out was coming in through the seal in the slave cylinder. I finally reverse bleed the system by forcing fluid in through the slave cylinder - with the slave compressed and the pedal in the up position. That worked. Lesson learned.


Originally Posted by Helix13mini
The clutch bleed is not what I would consider a good candidate for a DIY job. If it goes wrong, you've got a huge headache. Read the various threads on it before attempting.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 10:01 AM
  #11  
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From: Hickory,NC
Originally Posted by minilovr
I screw up the clutch bleed by first not removing the slave and second by not having fluid in the bleed hose before opening the valve. Result was a pedal that went right to the floor without any resistance. I then removed the slave and compressed as described in another post. I tried pressing and very slowly releasing the pedal alternating with the valve open/closed. No matter how slowly I released the pedal air was being drawn into the system which I later figured out was coming in through the seal in the slave cylinder. I finally reverse bleed the system by forcing fluid in through the slave cylinder - with the slave compressed and the pedal in the up position. That worked. Lesson learned.
You learn more from our mistakes than you do from your success's. I had the benefit of a power bleeding tool when I did it. does it feel better than it did when you started?

Sent from my iPad using NAMotoring
 
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