There's a video floating around the Internet of a guy in an R56 showing his aeroforce gauges. He doesn't list all of the available items off. But the key ones all seem to be there.

 

I'm a traditionalist... I like a needle, no LED readouts.

 

How about: DashCommand™ with an OBDII Bluetooth transmit to an iPhone

http://www.palmerperformance.com/pro...hone/index.php


New school traditionalist (well sort of)

 

Hmmm... I think I'll just stick with a 60mm Prosport. I wouldn't mind either a oil pressure or oil temp gauge either.

 

in the late 70s/early 80s, aviation "discovered" digital gauges ...
the engineers loved them for their greater accuracy, the pilots hated them ...
studies followed, it turns out you have to "read" a digital gauge and then interpret what you read, but with an analog gauge, you learn the "normal" position of the needle, not the actual value and can see at a glance that the needle is "where it should be"

as a result of the study, aviation manufacturers began rotating the analog gauges so that in normal cruise flight all the needles point in the same direction, making it even easier to see at a glance that all parameters are "normal"

even today with "glass panels", the engine gauges are dipicted as analog gauges with needles

scott

scott

 

Yup!

 

While I agree that analog gauges are easier to read. I'm not trying to install 4+ separate gauges in my car. It's a mini, not a fighter jet. I don't need or want clutter.

My plan is to install the aeroforce gauge, install an oil pressure sending unit using the tapless adapter and an oil temp probe which I can then wire to the gauge using its input ports, and then set the parameters for each readout (coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure, boost, rpm, etc) to light the LED indicators if any of those readings fall outside of my predetermined normal operating range. This way I don't have to actually ever "read" the gauge. If something is a miss, the light will light, and then I can further investigate it using its data logging function.

 

Ordered the Aeroforce Interceptor last night direct through Aeroforce and ordered the Alta tach mount gauge pod from OutMotoring. Hopefully stuff will be here by the end of next week so I'll have something to do the following Saturday.

As always, I'll be letting you guys have my 2 cents about it all once I get it hooked up.

 

So almost 2 full weeks later... Here's what happened.

Got the Alta mount from OutMotoring super quick (as always), got the Aeroforce gauge super quick as well. Got it all installed, boot it up... Nothing. It booted and went into readout mode but the data fields were blank. Long story short, contacted Aeroforce, wrong firmware version, they shipped a new one out to me the next day.

I just got this one today, I plug it in, the firmware is correct, data readouts are proper, but the screen has a dead spot. So... Being impatient as I am, I took both of them apart and swapped the good screen from the one with the wrong firmware onto the one with the right firmware. I'm writing a note of explanation to Aeroforce and shipping the other one back.

I've only had it installed for a short period of time, so I can't post a decent review yet, but I will say that it's nice to actually be able to see coolant temp for once in my life! Gauge response time seems to be excellent as well.

 

After a little while with the Aeroforce installed, I want to give it my official seal of approval. I've been using the cyclic scan function to monitor coolant temp, O2 sensor temp, AF ratio, ignition advance, vac/boost, intake air, and ambient air. The 8 second cycle time I have it on is perfect for me and it seems to be super accurate.

Furthermore, I've been using the code scanner function to monitor the intermittent CEL I've been getting from the catless downpipe. It seems that the only code I get is P0141, O2 sensor heater circuit, Bank 1 Sensor 2. That's the post cat sensor that I have the spacer on. This light only comes on when I've driven nicely on the expressway and now confirms my thoughts that the rear O2 is getting too cool from a combination of the under-car air stream at highway speed and being spaced out of the direct exhaust stream.

I'm going to get some exhaust wrap in the coming weekend or two and thermal wrap the downpipe, including the rear O2 sensor, in attempt to keep it hot and in operating temperature range. This should keep the CEL off permanently. I will update with more information when I have it.

 

Deleted the muffler from the hot side boost tube with this piece of aluminum that's smooth on the inside and has heat sink fins on the outside, supposedly to help dissipate heat. I haven't noticed a drop in IAT's seeing as the HelixFMIC does a phenomenal job of keeping them at or very near ambient temps.

www.siliconeintakes.com

 

Ordered the Forge valve kit for the N18 since the stock valve is only rated to 1bar... And because I just like changing things. Haha.

Next on the power mods list, I think, is a hybrid turbo and exhaust manifold.

Also probably gonna drop cash on some suspension goodies soon.

Trying to be the craziest Mini in the neighborhood is an expensive hobby!

 

What type of numbers are you seeing now with the I/C when looking at your IAT?

 

Best way to eliminate the muffler thingy without spending a lot of money on a boost tube haha,
did the same thing myself.

 

It's hard to say with certainty about aggressive driving because, even though I'm modified, I hardly ever beat the snot out of it. I regularly drive like a grandma. But...

When the ambient temp is below 80, I see IAT and ambient being near identical during regular driving. In stop and go traffic I see IAT's rise, but only until I actually start moving, they quickly decline back towards ambient.

The Helix FMIC seems to do a really good job keeping IAT well within 10 degrees of ambient even during some hard 3rd/4th gear pulls on the expressway. And once you stop giving it the beans, it quickly dives back down to within a couple degrees of ambient. I have yet to have it get heat soaked on me.

I'm very impressed and satisfied with the purchase.

 

Here's the real money saver version:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3652632

 

Yeah I thought about doing that as well. It just comes down to me being a truck driver and really have very limited time at home. I have to split it between the Mini, the woman, the daughter, etc... I don't have time to be driving around buying and fabricating anything LOL

 

Been in contact with Frankenturbo about their upcoming kit for the R56.

They're in the middle of a slow development process as they've been working with a couple different tuners on developing a solution for the kit.

I brought to their attention that JM Turbo Coopers is using NM Engineering as their tuning solution for the 40, 42, and 45mm turbos they sell for the R56.

There are now some communications being had to find out if the tune that NM loads for JMTC's 42mm turbo is relatively the same tune as the Stage 2 they offer to R56 owners.

If this is the case, I may be able to slap Frankenturbo's 42mm F21 kit on my car and beta test it as I already have NM's Stage 2 installed on the car.

Hopefully I will have more information this week.

 

That would be great

Make sure you Dyno before and after install

 

I'm going to get make a dyno pull this coming Saturday. I do not have a stock baseline pull, but at least I will have a recorded run with the current mods I have.

 

I got the Forge N18 BOV (Recirculating) kit installed yesterday. Haven't had much time to drive it yet, but in the few miles I put on it, I can say WOW is it quiet compared to the stock valve.

Even with my open air box NM Intake, it's barely noticeable with the windows up and the tone of the sounds is more of a "tsschewww" sound now. My only explanation for this is the Forge valve must flow a lot better when opened and therefore is making less noise.

Install was pretty straight forward. Standard pains of getting to the DV area but the vacuum hose routing and solenoid mounting was a breeze.

I only had one hiccup. I dropped a DV bolt and the car ate it. I looked for the thing for over and hour and couldn't find it. For the time being, I have an equal threaded bolt in its place with a couple small washers to keep it from bottoming out in the turbo housing, but I need to get a new bolt (or a whole new set just to keep around in case).

I found them on Sewell's website, but they're 6.50 each and shipping is like 12 dollars (ridiculous). Does anyone know if the dealer stocks these or if there is an easier place to get some from?

 

Sewell actually is a dealer (in TX) so I would think if they stock them your local dealer might very well too.

By the way, Sewell is a great place for parts, I got a half a dozen OEM things just last week...at a substantial savings over any other place. If you're signed into NAM and signed into an account with Sewell the pricing shows up with additional discounts.

 

On their site, it says "ships in 48 hours" which probably means they aren't stocked. Also, even with the NAM discount, the bolts are $1 cheaper but shipping is still $12.43 on a $5 bolt. :-/

I'm gonna call my dealer and see.

 

Yeahhhh.... My dealer wants almost $12 per bolt, they also do not stock them. I put a WTB on the marketplace but if I don't find anything soon I'll probably just order them.

 

Problem is that's their shipping minimum...I wish some of these places would just grab a USPS Priority Mail box and ship it for $5. Of course your option is to buy a few more bits and amortize the cost.