Also, for reference to the new exhaust setup. This is a cold-start.


Catless DP, second cat and resonator delete, stock muffler and tips.

 

Alternatively, we could try wrapping the sensor and spacer in a wrap of some sort to keep it hotter and see if that takes care of the CEL.

I'm thinking something like whatever Exhaust Depot used to wrap their DP: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/exhaustdepot_2180_4869801

Edit: Reading further, they used header wrap for the DP. I wonder if that would be the ticket to wrap the spacer and sensor?

 

I would think wrapping the entire Downpipe and sensor/spacer would be the best way to keep heat in the entire pipe. I know of wrapping the exhaust manifold and the exhaust turbine housing of the turbocharger but I don't know about wrapping the DP. Never heard of anyone doing that. Possibly for good reason?

 

Well guys, I pulled the trigger during the just ended group buy from Helix and got their FMIC... Installed on Friday...





Looks like I'm ready for a more aggressive tune and some suspension mods.
Anyone heard of any roundabout estimates of HP numbers from an NM Stage 2 tune vs a (possible?) RMW/Jan tune?

 

I can tell you that NM stage 2 tune (along with my other mods) feels like a beast!!! I know that a month ago I stated that I was going to chill a bit to save up some money but the increased torque from the stage 2 tune has convinced me that I NEED a Quaife LSD. I going up to see Way and having that installed (along with a clutch while he's in there) on Friday. I'm also picking up a set of Koni Yellows and spacers to be installed here in Savannah. THEN I will be done... for the most part...

 

You went from stock with bolt ons to stage 2 if i remember correctly? I'm already at stage 1 with bolt ons so I'm more or less wondering what the changes are. They say 20-25% increase vs stage 1 and I saw an N18 stage 1 dyno review article that said 202 at the wheels vs 172 stock, so I'm thinking maybe another 15whp??

Apparently no one has dyno'd an N18 with bolt ons and NM Stage 2. LOL

 

MINI advertises the N18 MCS at 181hp if I remember correctly. Yes, I went directly to Stage 2. I have no idea what the who and/or torque is now. After the LSD goes in I'm going to schedule some dyne time. A shop here offers 3 runs for $100. When that happens, I'll post.

 

Sounds good! I'm gonna do the same when I get a chance. Several shops here offer the same deal for dyno pulls.

As far as the 172hp number, they were referring to at the wheels. MINI's 181hp advertised would be at the engine. Seems about right.

 

Mini has a drivetrain loss of ~5% ??

.....if so then that's damn good!

 

That was kinda my thought...

 

While I agree than 5% seems low, there are things to consider:

FWD cars and Manual Trans' inherently have much less drivetrain loss than RWD cars and Auto trans' do. Furthermore, drivetrain loss is not a static percentage, it increases with torque due to thrust forces in helical cut trans and differential gears, windage, seal drag etc...

http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-10...s/viewall.html

This is a great article. In it are some good points, one of which being

"... when dyno testing in the direct drive (1:1) gear, power is delivered directly through the mainshaft of the transmission, so the only loss sources are windage, friction and drag, resulting in total at-the-wheel losses as low as 1.5 to 2 percent..."

"In the case of FWD vehicles, the torque path is more direct to the front wheels and the use of efficient helical final drive gears means that drivetrain losses can be as much as 50 percent lower than on RWD and AWD vehicles."

That being said, 5% isn't impossible for manual transmission FWD cars with power output levels like ours. But what is really important to me are the deltas, the change between the first stock run of 172 and the modded run of 202. The 30hp increase is what I'm looking at, not the total output reading.

 

Oh no argument here. I'm well aware of the many variables when drivetrain losses are calculated, and it not being a static percentage.

I was just impressed with the numbers lol =D

Deltas are probably most important then just big numbers because you need to see if the part you are adding is either gaining or losing power. Hence deltas.

For instance, the guys at AEM said their dyno reads low, but they only look for deltas, not peak numbers. I don't believe they were too happy with the numbers my car gave when the intake was fitted. Deltas were low....which sorta solidifies the argument that the stock intake assembly isn't bad at all.


......so now they are looking for a stock N18 S....they will most likely see bigger deltas with a bone stock car.

Still gonna read that article right now though lol.

 

Coming from the honda world that is a really good number.

 

Out of curiosity, why'd you leave the Honda scene?

 

Hey Tony

these people have the O2 sensor for $69

http://www.jmturbocoopers.com/O2-Sen...s-Adapter.html

I plan to use it with buying either the VIP catless DP or Milltek catless DP.


What do you think? Legit enough?

 

I saw that. It seems like it could work. My spacer doesn't have a catalyst element in it and my CEL is currently off. I'm still gonna wait until the weather gets warmer here to test my theory that the rear o2 being spaced into the cold ambient temp stream is enough to cool it out of operating range. If that doesn't help, I may consider this route.

 

Atkins diet?

 

Theft, price hype, parking lot full of kids and xxl white t shirts, everyone is a gangster, no respect towards noobies, selling parts to a Honda owner is a huge hassle as most are teens, the desired chasis for a build have been whored out with rebuilt titles, fake copycat parts, drag racing centric. I still have a small type r tattoo on my back but luckily almost completely faded. If honda ever comes out with a true 3rd gen crx I will buy it. Not this hybrid crap they have now.

 

Haha so true. I only asked because....well LA is like the capital of riced out Hondas lol.

I know some people actually swap and build up some damn fast Hondas. But those are a rare breed.

Parts are super cheap though...maybe for a reason?

How do you like your mini compared to the Honda you use to drive/upgrade?

 

This will be my last post about it since it isn't my thread- I love the car so far. Still haven't installed the helix intercooler yet. I'm throwing parts at it too quickly and not getting used to the parts one at a time and learning about them. How do I like it compared to my old honda? Well the turbo is about 1/4 the sze of my last turbo but the interior and car feels more solid than any Honda I've been in. Bigger turbo= more problems. This block in the pic was bored out to 83mm with darten sleeves and blew up 3 times.




These cars are not about lego building horsepower and slapping a big turbo on them. It's about turning imo. Fack a straight line.

 

Is anyone running colder range plugs? I know with most engines I've done in the past, I've always gone one range colder when going to forced induction. Has anyone gone colder when tuning and upgrading? Was it by recommendation? Where did you get them? Etc...

 

I'm running colder plugs. Jerry T from NM recommended them. I got them from Way Motor Works

 

Is okay to stay with the OEM plugs on a Stage 1 or inbetween a Stage 1/Stage 2 NM tune? Or should I get it regardless so it keeps the temps down?

 

Talked to Jerry and Way and they both said run them once I go to Stage 2. So I'm gonna be ordering them this coming weekend so I'll have them for next weekend when I get back from vacation... that way I can just drop in the Stage 2 ECU and throw the plugs in it at the same time, start it up and roll out! POWERRR!

Surprised more people don't talk about running colder plugs if both of these guys (obviously with respected opinions) are so quick to advocate their use.

 

Agreed!

As you can now see in my sig block, I am now the proud owner of a Quaife LSD. LOVING IT!!! The tune gave me so much torque that I about couldn't stand it. Strongly recommended!