Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Opinions and Question About Mods (N18)

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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 09:00 AM
  #51  
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I found this link in another thread about making an O2 sensor spacer out of spark plug non-foulers.

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...n-foulers.html

Dave
 
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 12:45 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Melangell
Good deal, Tony... and good deal for Way. Check the sig, got the exhaust manifold. I'm loving life getting ready to send my ECU to NM. For all concerned, my earlier comments about O2 spacers not working was based on many MINI owners and kinda follows your comment about being "finicky". "Finicky" is not my idea of "fixed", so... Looking forward to the tune and am planning on a Quaife LSD and H&R Front Swaybar as my next mods to try and keep the front wheels in check. Cheers!
Looks like you're all hooked up now. I just got in on the Helix FMIC group buy that's going on right now. It's running til March 1st if anyone else is interested, get in on it. There's already I think more than 10 confirmed orders in. After that, I'll be shipping my ECU out to Jerry at NM again for the Stage 2 tune.

The LSD is something I'd like but isn't on my short list. I'm looking at removing the backseat if the girlfriend doesn't give me too much sass about it (her 11 year old daughter likes to go with us in the Mini), getting some strut tower bracing and the TSW undercarriage X-brace and then moving forward from there.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 02:47 PM
  #53  
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Do you have to pay extra to go from NM stage 1 to NM stage 2 besides shipping?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 04:37 PM
  #54  
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No you don't. Same price.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 04:44 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by TonyCheckraise
...getting some strut tower bracing and the TSW undercarriage X-brace and then moving forward from there.
The TSW springs dropped me about an inch and the XBrace DOES protrude a little. Yesterday I met my first speed bump... Just a little scrape but I know to stay clear now!
 
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 03:23 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Melangell

The TSW springs dropped me about an inch and the XBrace DOES protrude a little. Yesterday I met my first speed bump... Just a little scrape but I know to stay clear now!
How do you like the drop springs with stock shocks? I've been considering dropping the car but I figure if I'm gonna do that, might as well wait and do an entire matched coil-over setup.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 07:32 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by TonyCheckraise
How do you like the drop springs with stock shocks? I've been considering dropping the car but I figure if I'm gonna do that, might as well wait and do an entire matched coil-over setup.
I thought about coil-overs but realized that I just don't need them. I plan on adding Koni Yellows when I do the LSD and front sway bar sometime in the future. The $3k I just spent is enough for now!

I trusted Way that the TSW springs play well with the OEM shocks and he was right. I love the feel, the added control. I worried about a harsher ride but it really hasn't happened yet. All-in-all, I'm pleased but I'm thinking that I will be more so after the Koni's.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 07:53 PM
  #58  
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RSD and Exhaust Question

A Small Update:

I decided I have zero use for the rear seat... it's since been removed. Haha



I think I had mentioned that I'm currently in the group buy for the Helix FMIC that's going right now, so that's going to be on its way shortly. The next part on my list is the remainder of the exhaust. I already have the Evolve catless downpipe, so I only need the downpipe-back section.

I'm pretty rowdy, I like my cars to be as well, that being said, I've narrowed it down to two exhaust systems.

DDMWorks

Way Motor Works

The only real differences here are the pipe diameter (2.5" for WMW and 3" for DDM) which I think is a non-issue, and WMW has a resonator whereas DDM does not.

Does anyone have any experience with either and/or both of these exhausts? I'm really not partial to either, I'm just looking for any input here.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 07:54 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Melangell
I trusted Way that the TSW springs play well with the OEM shocks and he was right. I love the feel, the added control. I worried about a harsher ride but it really hasn't happened yet. All-in-all, I'm pleased but I'm thinking that I will be more so after the Koni's.
That's good to know. I will have to check into them as I'm really interested in dropping this little bugger.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 06:26 AM
  #60  
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Helix short shift kit is in and sweet. I haven't had it on the road yet but sitting in the shop the throw now seems to be an inch between gears. The reason I didn't test it on the road is because my ECU is ON THE WAY to NM!!!!!
 
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 06:48 PM
  #61  
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How much more drop will the TSW springs go if it settles?
 
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:03 PM
  #62  
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Way said that there won't be much settling. Yet to see though since I just got them installed. I already have the advertised drop.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 12:22 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Melangell
Way said that there won't be much settling. Yet to see though since I just got them installed. I already have the advertised drop.
You installed them yourself or had them installed? I think I'm gonna stiffen up everything (front sway bar, x-brace, and either a rear sway bar or a 4-5 point harness bar) before I drop it or change shocks.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 03:14 AM
  #64  
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Ah hells no!!! I only install the easy stuff, ie: CAI, torque arm insert, heat shield, etc. As I have said before, my next mods will be LSD, front sway bar, Koni Yellows and maybe an oil cooler. After dropping $10k in parts and installation, I'm going to chill for a little bit and replenish the bank account.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 05:16 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Melangell
Ah hells no!!! I only install the easy stuff, ie: CAI, torque arm insert, heat shield, etc. As I have said before, my next mods will be LSD, front sway bar, Koni Yellows and maybe an oil cooler. After dropping $10k in parts and installation, I'm going to chill for a little bit and replenish the bank account.
LOL I enjoy the difficult jobs. Probably the only thing I won't end up doing myself are alignments and tire swaps! I'm pretty good at wrenching and I've got a friend of mine that works at a shop that's owned by his father, so we have access to the lifts and things on weekends.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 01:53 PM
  #66  
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Got bored today so I went to the muffler shop by my house and had them cut out the secondary cat and resonator, welding a straight piece in it's place.

Now the exhaust is a straight pipe from the turbo all the way back to the stock muffler and tips. Sounds pretty rowdy.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 03:22 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by TonyCheckraise
Got bored today so I went to the muffler shop by my house and had them cut out the secondary cat and resonator, welding a straight piece in it's place.

Now the exhaust is a straight pipe from the turbo all the way back to the stock muffler and tips. Sounds pretty rowdy.
Lucky, when I wanted this done NO shop would do it....they thought I was undercover or something hahaha

I'm in California.....huge fines for shops that get caught doing this sort of stuff.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 07:28 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by NewCooperFanatic

Lucky, when I wanted this done NO shop would do it....they thought I was undercover or something hahaha

I'm in California.....huge fines for shops that get caught doing this sort of stuff.
Yeah... You gotta kinda search around here as well. Most shops, including this one, will do it as long as you agree to pay them cash and there's no receipt. Keeps the paper trail off of them.

Best 40 bucks I've spent this year, IMO! Haha with the catless downpipe, it's quite a ruckus.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 04:23 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by TonyCheckraise
So it's a 2500 dollar fine for me if they prosecute. Thanks for the clarification on the law. No sarcasm intended by any means.



I have an o2 spacer on my 2012 MCS with a catless downpipe and its working to keep the CEL off. It's finicky, but like I said in my post earlier today, I think it's Chicago winter's temperature cooling down the now spaced rear o2 too much. It's been off for several days now.


To repeat myself, I really appreciate everyone's input on all this random stuff here. It's a wealth of information and the experience of all of us MINI owners will all probably differ.
Any updates on the spacer?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 06:51 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by mattkosem
Any updates on the spacer?
I have the spacer situation almost completely worked out.

The CEL only comes on when I drive it nice on the expressway. If I'm driving around town and am a little bit liberal with the gas pedal, it will go off after a couple drives.

Once it is off, it will only come back on after I've driven it on the highway at a gingerly pace.

I still think it's temperature related, I think that the spacer brings the O2 sensor out into the undercar airstream and with Chicago being so cold outside, it cools down the sensor too much, bringing it out of operating temperature and throws a code. If I am having some fun with it and driving in a spirited fashion, I think the added exhaust heat keeps it warm enough to function as intended and the light does in fact go off.

I'm going to have to wait until the weather here in Chicago gets significantly warmer before I can narrow down if it really is ambient temperature related. If that's the case, then I could always try to thermally wrap the sensor and spacer to keep the heat in.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 07:11 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by NewCooperFanatic
Lucky, when I wanted this done NO shop would do it....they thought I was undercover or something hahaha

I'm in California.....huge fines for shops that get caught doing this sort of stuff.
Just talked to my uncle who lives in California (Sacramento) and mentioned to him about your troubles finding a shop to do custom exhaust work. He's 65, used to drive a super awesome mid-90's Miata (Turbo, coil-overs, etc.) but has since retired from the tuner lifestyle and now drives a Porsche Cayman S.

His response;

"Why do you think everyone out here has Corvettes and Porsches and Ferraris? We gotta buy cars that are already fast because these ***** wont let us trick our **** out!"

Guess he's still got some of that custom car fever in his blood.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 07:50 AM
  #72  
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Hahaha I love that, your uncle is one cool dude.


And he has a very good point. You honestly can't do any modifications to your own vehicle unless its C.A.R.B. approved...which most parts aren't.

Some cities are even super strict about window tint...rather ridiculous.

Upside of having a Mini is that they never really target them because they don't expect one to be modified.....Honda's on the other hand, you see a ton of those modified. Which is why they tend to only pay attention to those.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 01:41 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by NewCooperFanatic
Hahaha I love that, your uncle is one cool dude.

And he has a very good point. You honestly can't do any modifications to your own vehicle unless its C.A.R.B. approved...which most parts aren't.

Some cities are even super strict about window tint...rather ridiculous.

Upside of having a Mini is that they never really target them because they don't expect one to be modified.....Honda's on the other hand, you see a ton of those modified. Which is why they tend to only pay attention to those.
In this case, move to Michigan, no CARBS here! Mod the hell out of it lol.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 02:25 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by TonyCheckraise
I have the spacer situation almost completely worked out.

The CEL only comes on when I drive it nice on the expressway. If I'm driving around town and am a little bit liberal with the gas pedal, it will go off after a couple drives.

Once it is off, it will only come back on after I've driven it on the highway at a gingerly pace.

I still think it's temperature related, I think that the spacer brings the O2 sensor out into the undercar airstream and with Chicago being so cold outside, it cools down the sensor too much, bringing it out of operating temperature and throws a code. If I am having some fun with it and driving in a spirited fashion, I think the added exhaust heat keeps it warm enough to function as intended and the light does in fact go off.

I'm going to have to wait until the weather here in Chicago gets significantly warmer before I can narrow down if it really is ambient temperature related. If that's the case, then I could always try to thermally wrap the sensor and spacer to keep the heat in.
Funny you mention this, Tony. I was about to post something on this very topic.

My o2 sensor is spaced out on my Akrapovic using a J-tube. It is spaced out way too far and I have a persistent CEL from the o2 sensor not reading anything. However, last week I went for a hard drive with lots of WOT pulls. I drove it about as hard as I ever have. Guess what? CEL went off until I started driving it slow(er) and steady on the expressway, then it came back on.

My theory was that I must've gotten it quite hot during my hard session and the sensor was finally able to get a reading. Then, when things cooled down, the o2 sensor was out of the loop again and the CEL came back.

Your experience helps confirm my suspicions. I really think that, with an appropriately sized spacer (not too long), and some heat wrap, we can keep the CEL off without using software.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 03:02 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Hujan

Funny you mention this, Tony. I was about to post something on this very topic.

My o2 sensor is spaced out on my Akrapovic using a J-tube. It is spaced out way too far and I have a persistent CEL from the o2 sensor not reading anything. However, last week I went for a hard drive with lots of WOT pulls. I drove it about as hard as I ever have. Guess what? CEL went off until I started driving it slow(er) and steady on the expressway, then it came back on.

My theory was that I must've gotten it quite hot during my hard session and the sensor was finally able to get a reading. Then, when things cooled down, the o2 sensor was out of the loop again and the CEL came back.

Your experience helps confirm my suspicions. I really think that, with an appropriately sized spacer (not too long), and some heat wrap, we can keep the CEL off without using software.
Precisely my thoughts! I don't have a j-style spacer, just a straight one. I think it's more a matter of keeping it warm, but I'm not certain. The only way to REALLY know is to constantly be data logging through OBD and be able to see the raw sensor readings from the rear sensor while you're driving it hard vs driving it soft. You'd really have to know exactly what parameters you were looking for though, and I'm not entirely keen on all those specifics.
 
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