HI...I'm new here....A month ago i bought myself a brand new 2012 R56 MCS n i m really loving it...So recently installed a K&N universal airfilter n a greddy blow of valve....
The problem now is that the blow of valve is not working at all.Is there anybody here can help me to source n solve the problem for me..... btw i cant seem to find the built in oem noise maker located n also where can i get the vacuum to connect to the blow off valve.......tq pls help

Your help is highly appreciated

ps: can anybody show me where the noisemaker for R56 MCS location in the engine and where to get the proper vacuum source for the blow off valve ...tq

 

The question you should be asking yourself is why do you want a vent to atmosphere blow off valve on your MINI?! You're asking for irritating CELs and torque limitations by the ECU. I don't mean to p*ss on your parade, but just want to help you out.

I was in your shoes once and I learned the hard way. I wrote this little snip-bit in my local MINI club forum:

Steer Clear of Vent to Atmosphere (VTA) Blow-off Valves (BOVs)
If you’ve got an R56 S, jusy say no to VTA BOVs. I had an HKS blow-off valve for almost a year and after a couple days on the track I knew it had to go. The trouble is that the engine’s ECU is already controlling a stock diverter valve on the turbo and adding another mechanical valve downstream only confuses the ECU. A check engine light will occur when the VTA BOV vents and the stock diverter valve is still closed. I believe the ECU has logic that checks both intake manifold pressure and the mass air flow and if there is a disagreement in this logic, a check engine light will populate. The real bonus is that the engine goes into a torque derate because it thinks there is a boost leak. So in “English,” the engine acts like there is no turbo!! My experience with the HKS SSQV was that when I would slightly lift the throttle at times, the blow-off valve would vent when it really didn’t have to, the stock diverter valve remained closed, the check engine light for a boost leak would populate, and then when it came time to go wide open throttle there was no torque! Lucky for me, I was able to sell the HKS SSQV kit on eBay to some ricer lover with very minimal financial loss.



If you still insist on using one of these darn things, the best vacuum source is to use an adapter on the MAP sensor. I'm talking about one of these:

http://www.jscspeed.com/catalog/ATP_...r_S-279-1.html

 

^^^^^Correctamunnnnndo!!!^^^^^ Venting metered air is not good.

 

Why not just do the forge diverter valve? I've had mine forever with no issues.

 

Sounds like he is running the stock DV and a Greddy BOV at the same time.

Stock DV is located on the turbo

 

He probably wants the distinctive sound of a VTA BOV. PPSSSSSSSSHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

 

Does it sound that much different? Mine is pretty damn loud with the mods I have...

 

I have the newer Forge DV on my R56. To my ears it is about the same volume as the stock DV. When I used to have a VTA BOV, it was much louder than the stock setup. Not worth all the dang problems though!

 

hmmm, Are we talking about the same thing? This is what I have...

 

That is not a diverter valve. It's a vent to atmosphere adapter for the OEM diverter valve.

 

oh, lol... It works/sounds good.

 

 

There was another member here who has that bypass valve spacer along with the ALTA spring and says that it works and sounds good. Anybody else have any opinions on that forge spacer? Is the fact that it indeed vents to atmosphere not a good thing? I was thinking about doing the spacer and the spring combo but don't if it's going to cause problems.

 

MAF meters incoming air for fueling. When that air just disappears from the system and the check sum between the maf and the map ... Its not good, but it does sound cool.

 

No problem, I will check that part off of my list. Thanks for the info!

 

There is the benefit of not letting the unneeded boost recirculate right? That's the point of VTA. What are the specific negative impacts of having it. It makes since What ur saying about the MAF but what does that mean for the car?

 

In the early days no bpv's or bov's were in used(long story short they are not needed*).

Compressor stall(wooosh wooo woosh) will eventually wear journal bearing turbos but it is also mis interprited as compressor surge which is completely different(surge being one of the main reasons why people get bov's).

You are right but not, you are right in the fact that for our* (usdm=MAF) cars.


Nut shell.
Being maf monitored means all the air is metered coming into the system, in a nut shell cross referenced with a check sum to the iat/boost and the map sensors (dont quote that). If you have air coming in to the system, but leaving before the final check... it will run lean ( one of the major codes associated with vta valves) or i forget the boost leak code but that one too. Its a simple check sum which will fail in instances because its not see the air which was metered.

True VTA valve use is for high boost motors where any over pressurization will blow couplings etc. Just a fancy noise in most factory gas turbo cars.

Dont get me wrong, im not slandering anyone who has one(i have had quite a few on my previous projects). But in reality it is a waste and your mini will run worse.

 

Nice to know! Thanks!

 

Bigprfed22 thank you for that info. I wonder could this cause the "super knock" code? I'm a persistently getting that, but thought it was unrelated...

 

Lean conditions> detonation> knock but i havent had any personal experience as my n14 has been running like a champ since day one. Could be, Back track. did the knock start after installation or randomly?

 

Well it was randomly... Actually it wasn't until a couple months after I got my accessport and tuned to stage 1 FMIC that it started throwing codes

 

Un-load the tune see if it goes away. Sounds like you got your answer already though if it started after the tune.