Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain car in limp mode and lit up like a christmas tree

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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 01:27 PM
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car in limp mode and lit up like a christmas tree

after further inspection it looks like coil pack is bad on #3. would it cause this? i know the coil pack does not add any power but i am thinking either screamin demon or msd. which way should i go? and to top things off the coolant tank is leaking at the seam.

the bad thing is i just bought the car a few weeks ago. i guess its all part of being a mini owner...
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 01:46 PM
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This is a common problem with the OEM coil. Recommendation, get another OEM coil. Affordable and holds up really well, just use some dielectric great on the terminals before you reinstall.

And the coolant overflow, common problem. Replace it with a new one that has been updated and it should last a little longer. Hell I have a spare OEM coil and New Coolant overflow on my shelf just waiting for mine to fail I scoop them up off the marketplace when I see great deals on them!
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 02:09 PM
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i understand where you are coming from; but, if i am going to the trouble of replacing something i go bigger and better. the msd and screamin are both cheaper than stock. is one better than the other?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 02:15 PM
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If you MUST get an upgraded one, get the screamin demon because it retains the use of the stock bolts so you have less chance of overtightening. But I will point out, the general consensus of even most of the well known tuners and vendors on this board is that upgraded ignition coils aren't always necessary. Hence is why I sold mine and used the money elsewhere.

So you would be going bigger? but no always better in this case.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 02:46 PM
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Stick with another OEM coil and wire set, then get the adaptations cleared. Also check your spark plugs as well while you're at it.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 04:22 PM
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A lot of people have had good luck just cleaning the contacts where the plug wires attach on the coil pack, then just packing it with dielectric grease as the other poster said, you might try that first unless youjust want the "cool" looks of the other piece.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 06:05 PM
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i understand it does nothing for performance. i just don't want to go through the trouble of doing this again. so, if i can replace the oem unit with something that does not corrode then why not? i know the money can be better spent elsewhere; however, the unit as far as i am concerned has failed. so why not replace with another that should not have the same failure? i plan on keeping this car for a long time. i don't mind spending the money. that just means other mods will have to wait.

so, back to the original question. msd or screamin demon? and would a corroded coil pack cause limp mode?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 06:10 PM
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I use MSD and Magnecor wires and have never had any issues. I did this more for looks, as there is no performance gains. The use of dielectric grease is really the way to go to avoid the corrosion.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 07:17 PM
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check this out. i was able to locate part numbers and i can order everything through advance auto:

MSD Ignition Coil, Mitsubishi, Dodge, '96-On
Part No: 8239
Product doesn't fit your saved vehicle(s)
Check Fit for another vehicle
x Remove Update Pick Up At
Ship to Home Arrives in 3-4 business days
$89.99
Add'l Discount: -$13.50
$76.49
MSD Ignition Wire Set, SC Red, '02-'04 Mini Cooper, 1.6L
Part No: 32879
Product doesn't fit your saved vehicle(s)
Check Fit for another vehicle
x Remove Update Ship to Home Arrives in 10-12 business days
$66.99
Add'l Discount: -$10.05
$56.94
NGK Iridium Ix Spark Plug (BKR6EIX)
Part No: 6418
Warranty: 3 YEAR REPLACEMENT IF DEFECTIVE
Exact Fit for your 2006 Mini Cooper S
x Remove Update Pick Up At
Ship to Home Arrives in 3-4 business days
$6.99
Add'l Discount: -$4.19
$23.77
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 07:18 PM
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plus they are offering:

What qualifying orders get:

15% off nearly everything.*
A $50 coupon valid towards a future purchase of $100 or more, when you spend $100 now.*
FREE shipping on orders over $75, or choose in-store pickup, if applicable.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 07:19 PM
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would this work?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 07:22 PM
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i also read that you can reuse your bolts if you remove the sleeves
 
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 12:31 PM
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so i pulled the trigger on the msd coil, wires and ngk ix plugs. lets see if it all fits. not a bad deal for $170 with tax and free shipping. plus i get a $50 gift card which i will use towards the purchase of oil, oil filter, cabin air filter and gas filter. all stuff that i need.

as far as i am concerned the coil and wires are maintenance items. i could care less if it does not add performance. as long as it keeps the car is running in tip top shape thats all that matters.

thank you all for your feedback and will post a follow up once installed.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 05:39 PM
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after researching around in nam i think i found the root cause of my problem. the crank pulley damper. when my car went into limp mode i smelled burnt rubber. i can drive it with the a/c off but as soon as i turn it on and get in the upper revs it goes back to limp mode. also, a couple of days prior i would get a rattle from 2k - 3 k rpm. my car has 70k at seems that most fail around that mileage. so, i am replacing that as well.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by stxmini
after researching around in nam i think i found the root cause of my problem. the crank pulley damper. when my car went into limp mode i smelled burnt rubber. i can drive it with the a/c off but as soon as i turn it on and get in the upper revs it goes back to limp mode. also, a couple of days prior i would get a rattle from 2k - 3 k rpm. my car has 70k at seems that most fail around that mileage. so, i am replacing that as well.
Time for the ATI crank pulley, no more failures with it. Also notice the cars idle smoother with it.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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Hey STXMINI check this out, while driving today,I pulled out to pass a truck, dropped down a gear, and BAMM went into limp mode. Now imagine my thaoughts when this happened and not knowing what just went wrong. I drove like for a few miles, decided to pull over and shut it down to see what would happen. Everything cleared and I was back in motion, few more miles and BAMM, back in limp mode. This time,I too smelled burnt rubber. Made it home and popped the hood only to find that my DT tensioner strap broke. So now I'm adding it up, and after seeing your story realize, I probably had the crank pulley break when my tensioner strap broke. HMMM, thought that was why I bought that strap. Bummer!!! Gonna give Way a call and talk about it. More $$$ out of my pocket.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 01:17 PM
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sorry to hear about your troubles. i went with the ati super damper. its well built and seems to be the safest route to go. it is expensive though. i also replaced the coil pack, wires, plugs and coolant tank.

next i am going to start replacing worn suspension parts. first up is control arm bushings and upper strut mounts. since i will be removing all those parts i am also upgrading the suspension to H&R TOURING CUP KIT. saving up as we speak. looking at defender plates or m7 strut bar as well. almost forgot before buying the mini this summer the dealer had replaced the top motor mount since it was leaking. so before the suspension parts go on i am doing BSH Lower Engine Mount.

this car is costing me more money than i would like to spend! but, i think its worth it.

let me know how it goes and i hope you get your mini running soon.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 01:21 PM
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although i might just say screw it all and buy this first: Ireland Engineering Catback Exhaust!

my one ball exhaust mod is rattling and is driving me crazy! the suspension bushings mounts are cracked but not ripped. so they can wait. motor mount is going on for sure though.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 02:07 PM
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The suspension bushing mounts are like $80 at way.. there are some sites out there that sell aftermarket ones for $40...the issue becomes if you do them and then don't have the suspension parts available you would be doing the work twice. I've read that the job only takes about 1 hour per side -- but unfortunately didn't get to it this weekend as I was focused on fixing my power steering and ran out of time....guess I'll have to figure out when I can get to it.

Don't go with an exhaust before the necessary repairs. Have a reputable muffler shop just fix the rattle -- doubt it would cost more than $40 just to have a rattle taken care of.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 09:29 AM
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Well, I replaced my stock dampner with a ATI Super Dampner (e-bay for $350 shipped, best price out there now) and I swear the car runs stronger than ever. I'm thinking now that the dampner must have been slipping now and then for quite some time. Super happy with it. Easy job also, hardest part was getting the damn belt back on. lol..

The only suspension work I've done is a rear sway bar. Real happy with that also.

As far as performance mods, I've done a 17% pulley, DDM air intake, Miltek cat back, colder plugs and a computer tune. All from WMW. Real happy with the car now. (how's that for a plug, way? lol..)

Good luck with your suspension mods. I really don't have any input on this since I haven't done any or researched it at all.
 
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