Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Need new upper engine mount - VibraTechnics?

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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 09:24 PM
  #126  
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Hey. Either the upper or lower or both. Would like to hear more from anyone who has run The combo of the two. My upper mount is fine right now but want to do what results in least engine movement and least NVH.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 09:39 PM
  #127  
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i have the upper mount and didn't notice an increase in NVH. install wasn't difficult.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 05:02 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by CORNERS
Hey. Either the upper or lower or both. Would like to hear more from anyone who has run The combo of the two. My upper mount is fine right now but want to do what results in least engine movement and least NVH.
I will see what he has got left. I'll PM you when I know.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 05:37 AM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by CORNERS
Hey. Either the upper or lower or both. Would like to hear more from anyone who has run The combo of the two. My upper mount is fine right now but want to do what results in least engine movement and least NVH.
Colin has a website that you can get them. I'll PM you his info.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 04:04 PM
  #130  
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Is this a sign of a failed engine mount? Lol
2005 mcs, 6 speed.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 04:26 PM
  #131  
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Yup.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 04:39 PM
  #132  
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time for a new one.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 04:47 PM
  #133  
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Any cons of just leaving it alone? I either spend $200 on the way mount or $89 on an oem one?!
 
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 04:48 PM
  #134  
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Watch what you use to clean the frame rail. The paint isn't clear coated and rubs off easily. Check your rag to make sure it isn't turning hyper blue when cleaning.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 04:56 PM
  #135  
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not a good idea leaving g it unaddressed. you have 3 options. stock, TSW, or VT. really depends what your needs are. each has pros and cons. stock is the cheapest but has highest chance of failure again but it is also quiet. on the other end of the spectrum is the VT which is the nicest but you pay for that. whatever you pick its better than leaving it alone
 
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 05:00 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by RB-MINI
Watch what you use to clean the frame rail. The paint isn't clear coated and rubs off easily. Check your rag to make sure it isn't turning hyper blue when cleaning.
Thanks for the tip. Hydraulic fluid really does eat away at paint!
 
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 05:15 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by tlr1000
not a good idea leaving g it unaddressed. you have 3 options. stock, TSW, or VT. really depends what your needs are. each has pros and cons. stock is the cheapest but has highest chance of failure again but it is also quiet. on the other end of the spectrum is the VT which is the nicest but you pay for that. whatever you pick its better than leaving it alone
Thank you! I will look into them. I appreciate your help.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 09:31 PM
  #138  
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Also, do any of the other mounts fail regularly? I'm only asking because I might just replace them all while I have the engine jacked up to replace the upper one.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 11:32 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by ColinGreene
Id recommend the lower also if you can swing it. it really isolates the motor swinging fore and aft in the bay but i understand its not the cheapest option on the market.
Hey Colin I would like to buy the whole set of 3 for my 04 cooper s (Build Date 10/03). Do you still have them available for purchase?
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 04:54 AM
  #140  
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They are on his website...
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 05:05 AM
  #141  
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What's the name of the website
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 05:33 AM
  #142  
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Greeneperformance.com Or something like that.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 09:50 AM
  #143  
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^ +1
Just ordered the lower mount this week myself.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 01:37 PM
  #144  
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Thanks a lot guy's
 
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 12:27 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by jskeith111
Also, do any of the other mounts fail regularly? I'm only asking because I might just replace them all while I have the engine jacked up to replace the upper one.
Upper>lower>trans mount in that order for me. Change lower if you want to protect your header. My trans mount is fine so I didn't see a need to change it.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 12:38 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by ntn125
Upper>lower>trans mount in that order for me. Change lower if you want to protect your header. My trans mount is fine so I didn't see a need to change it.
What do you mean, change the lower if you want to protect your header?
 
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 12:48 PM
  #147  
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Lower quality headers (aftermarket) have crap for flex joints, or no flex joint at all.
As much as the R53s engine actually flops around under load, puts a lot of stress on something not designed to give... So they break! I know of one header specifically that uses an old metallic doughnut for a flex/gasket... They go south frequently, and either leak or fall totally apart!

OE header/manifold has a decent joint but they are aging fast, and nothing lasts forever. If you have an RMW header, they use a very high quality joint that will last as long or longer than the OE.

Reducing the movement of the engine with stiffer mounts, will prolong the life of any setup you may have. Including a jointless header.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 12:58 PM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by DICKS GARAGE R53
Lower quality headers (aftermarket) have crap for flex joints, or no flex joint at all. As much as the R53s engine actually flops around under load, puts a lot of stress on something not designed to give... So they break! I know of one header specifically that uses an old metallic doughnut for a flex/gasket... They go south frequently, and either leak or fall totally apart! OE header/manifold has a decent joint but they are aging fast, and nothing lasts forever. If you have an RMW header, they use a very high quality joint that will last as long or longer than the OE. Reducing the movement of the engine with stiffer mounts, will prolong the life of any setup you may have. Including a jointless header.
Which lower mount do you recommend?

Thanks for all the info
 
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 01:17 PM
  #149  
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Depends on how much vibration you are willing to deal with.

The V/T Street mount is the most forgiving (softest, with least vibration), and as the name implies great for a street car/DD. This is what most people go with because they run the smoothest. Still a great mount even when used on a 300 HP monster build car though.

The Race version, is STIFF yet manageable for some on the road. They will transmit more vibration, but all that vibration comes from the engine being locked into place... These are more for your track regular, or heavy autoX participant. Some will even just pop the race mount in before they hit the track so they don't need to feel the vibes every day. (If it takes you more than 15 minutes to install a lower mount, you're either doing it wrong, or you are the one armed man with no helper.)

Both are softer than some (BSH being a solid lump of aluminum with a stiff rubber insert on one end) but still offer all the benefits that you want, and less of what most people don't want. All of them DO have a break in period, to soften up. So if you think it is a little too stiff at first give it a week or so to soften the rubbers up.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 01:35 PM
  #150  
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^What **** said^
 
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