Drivetrain Need new upper engine mount - VibraTechnics?
Hey. Either the upper or lower or both. Would like to hear more from anyone who has run The combo of the two. My upper mount is fine right now but want to do what results in least engine movement and least NVH.
I will see what he has got left. I'll PM you when I know.
Colin has a website that you can get them. I'll PM you his info.
not a good idea leaving g it unaddressed. you have 3 options. stock, TSW, or VT. really depends what your needs are. each has pros and cons. stock is the cheapest but has highest chance of failure again but it is also quiet. on the other end of the spectrum is the VT which is the nicest but you pay for that. whatever you pick its better than leaving it alone
Thanks for the tip. Hydraulic fluid really does eat away at paint!
not a good idea leaving g it unaddressed. you have 3 options. stock, TSW, or VT. really depends what your needs are. each has pros and cons. stock is the cheapest but has highest chance of failure again but it is also quiet. on the other end of the spectrum is the VT which is the nicest but you pay for that. whatever you pick its better than leaving it alone
Also, do any of the other mounts fail regularly? I'm only asking because I might just replace them all while I have the engine jacked up to replace the upper one.
Hey Colin I would like to buy the whole set of 3 for my 04 cooper s (Build Date 10/03). Do you still have them available for purchase?
Upper>lower>trans mount in that order for me. Change lower if you want to protect your header. My trans mount is fine so I didn't see a need to change it.
What do you mean, change the lower if you want to protect your header?
Lower quality headers (aftermarket) have crap for flex joints, or no flex joint at all.
As much as the R53s engine actually flops around under load, puts a lot of stress on something not designed to give... So they break! I know of one header specifically that uses an old metallic doughnut for a flex/gasket... They go south frequently, and either leak or fall totally apart!
OE header/manifold has a decent joint but they are aging fast, and nothing lasts forever. If you have an RMW header, they use a very high quality joint that will last as long or longer than the OE.
Reducing the movement of the engine with stiffer mounts, will prolong the life of any setup you may have. Including a jointless header.
As much as the R53s engine actually flops around under load, puts a lot of stress on something not designed to give... So they break! I know of one header specifically that uses an old metallic doughnut for a flex/gasket... They go south frequently, and either leak or fall totally apart!
OE header/manifold has a decent joint but they are aging fast, and nothing lasts forever. If you have an RMW header, they use a very high quality joint that will last as long or longer than the OE.
Reducing the movement of the engine with stiffer mounts, will prolong the life of any setup you may have. Including a jointless header.
Lower quality headers (aftermarket) have crap for flex joints, or no flex joint at all. As much as the R53s engine actually flops around under load, puts a lot of stress on something not designed to give... So they break! I know of one header specifically that uses an old metallic doughnut for a flex/gasket... They go south frequently, and either leak or fall totally apart! OE header/manifold has a decent joint but they are aging fast, and nothing lasts forever. If you have an RMW header, they use a very high quality joint that will last as long or longer than the OE. Reducing the movement of the engine with stiffer mounts, will prolong the life of any setup you may have. Including a jointless header. 

Thanks for all the info
Depends on how much vibration you are willing to deal with.
The V/T Street mount is the most forgiving (softest, with least vibration), and as the name implies great for a street car/DD. This is what most people go with because they run the smoothest. Still a great mount even when used on a 300 HP monster build car though.
The Race version, is STIFF yet manageable for some on the road. They will transmit more vibration, but all that vibration comes from the engine being locked into place... These are more for your track regular, or heavy autoX participant. Some will even just pop the race mount in before they hit the track so they don't need to feel the vibes every day. (If it takes you more than 15 minutes to install a lower mount, you're either doing it wrong, or you are the one armed man with no helper.)
Both are softer than some (BSH being a solid lump of aluminum with a stiff rubber insert on one end) but still offer all the benefits that you want, and less of what most people don't want. All of them DO have a break in period, to soften up. So if you think it is a little too stiff at first give it a week or so to soften the rubbers up.
The V/T Street mount is the most forgiving (softest, with least vibration), and as the name implies great for a street car/DD. This is what most people go with because they run the smoothest. Still a great mount even when used on a 300 HP monster build car though.
The Race version, is STIFF yet manageable for some on the road. They will transmit more vibration, but all that vibration comes from the engine being locked into place... These are more for your track regular, or heavy autoX participant. Some will even just pop the race mount in before they hit the track so they don't need to feel the vibes every day. (If it takes you more than 15 minutes to install a lower mount, you're either doing it wrong, or you are the one armed man with no helper.)
Both are softer than some (BSH being a solid lump of aluminum with a stiff rubber insert on one end) but still offer all the benefits that you want, and less of what most people don't want. All of them DO have a break in period, to soften up. So if you think it is a little too stiff at first give it a week or so to soften the rubbers up.


