Put a boost gauge on today. Reading kinda low from what I can tell. It's an 03 S with 96k and 16% pulley. Shows around 8lbs. Car was stock when we bought it 3 years ago and it's not seen a lot of high rpms so I don't feel that the SC is tired. Best I can tell no leaks in the lines. Vacuum pulls to around 17. Does have stock couplers which i think are junk. Any ideas on what to check before ruling it the SC? Only other mods are DT bypass valve and and Alta CAI.

 

Honestly re-check your connections to your gauge. Also, where did you tap in for your gauge? 8lbs is so little it would be really noticable in the cars performance, I can't imagine you not noticing that long before you installed the gauge.

 

I tied in at the fuel pressure regulator. Went by the DIY write up on here for an ultralite Mechanical gauge. I agree I'll double check the lines. Honestly she rarely gets on it and I never drive the car so it may not run near as good lol. Storming bad here or I'd take it out.

 

Cool, double check that first, with only 8lbs even if you weren't used to driving the car you'd probably be trying to put your foot through the floor trying to get it to go faster.

As far as the FPR vacuum line, yes that's the best place to hook into, read what I posted here:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-fpr-line.html

about that connection, may help, good luck.

 

thanks I will give that a try. I know i didn't put teflon tape on the boost gauge side so I'll do that while i'm at it.

 

Ok so I mess with the boost gauge side and teflon tape it and it's reading 11 lbs. vacuum is 15 now at idle. That's better. Don't have time to pull the intercooler today but I will double check the other end. Still feel sure it wouldn't hurt to replace the old stock intercooler hoses. What is the other seal that's typically replaced around 100k that can effect boost? I've seen it mentioned but can't find the thread again.

 

Stock intercooler boots are the best design. Aftermarket ones give folks trouble sometimes.

 

So they don't give problems like people in older posts say they do in other posts or just get new stock ones?

 

For me I would stick with stock. Also, I would never replace them without specific proof they are bad, meaning torn. With the end clips tightened properly I can't see air escaping.

People report the other aftermarket ones blowing off and many have reverted back to stock.

I would check the DT valve and make sure it closes all the way, again, stock may be the way to go.

I'm pretty sure I hit 16lbs with a 15% pulley and BVH/exhaust, so I would image you should be closer to that. My gauge is low under the switches and I asked the wife to watch once a long time ago. I know I hit 15 since I can see that once and a while, but don't like to look there when driving.

If the valve isn't sealing, you have a quick fix, especially if the original one is on a shelf in the garage. You can watch the lever move, but looking may be best to make sure it seals.

 

I would say yes, get a new set of stock ones if you think they are needed, BUT....

Spend a little time & possibly save yourself some $:

Pull them off again, do a very good inspection of them looking for signs of dry or brittleness and or cracks & tears.

If there are none, take the clamps & grind a very small (1/32" or so) off of the ends of the clamps where they meet each other when there put together. This will allow you to clamp them just slightly tighter to compensate for any shrinkage in the rubber from time & heat. (ONLY A SMALL AMOUNT OF GRINDING, if it would take alot you should just replace the boots & also too much increases your chances of actually cutting into an otherwise good boot.)

Next clean any oil from inside the boot, just a paper towel will do, a little oil residue is actually good for the boots longevity, keeping it from drying out too easily.

When re-installing here's a little trick I like to do just to make sure it seals as good as possible, take a rag or paper towel & spray a little Brake or Carb./Choke cleaner on it & wipe down the inside of the boot where it slips over the I/C & Horns, also use this wrag to wipe down the I/C & Horns to remove any oil from them. (**DON'T spray the boots directly, the chemicals in the cleaner will after a few uses, degrade the rubber by causing it to dry out, but as you will be able to tell, if you use a slight amount on a rag it will make the rubber slightly "tacky" for a short time which makes for a great seal**)

Once the boots & clamps are all in place and your sure there positioned correctly with no little corners accidently folded under the clamps, tighten the clamps so that they're just loose enough for the boots to gradually move "on the Intake & S/C horns, use the clamps to pull the boots as far onto the horns as possible, then tighten them first, the I/C itself allows for some leeway when it comes to the boots positioning.

This should give you the best possible seal.

And yes the aftermarket boots, while looking good & being a little stout'er can be a PITA to install & "sometimes" not seal as well because of their lack of flexibility.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I think I will start by pulling the intercooler and checking the lines at the reg. and then work my way back through the intercooler and BPV to check everything out. Has to be something i'm overlooking. I did clean the silicone boots with carb cleaner but I didn't actually inspect it for tears or holes. I've got a turbo mustang with 1200rwhp when I had silicone couplers on them it would blow them off if oily at all lol. Would feel like the car died. But as far as the mini goes I did notice that one of the clamps popped when snugging it down. Not sure if the threads are messed up or what. I was using a 1/4" ratchet and I wasn't putting much tq on it so i'm thinking it was an existing issue. Wouldn't snug up so I may have to get a new clamp. But it sounds like until I see at least 15lbs my problem isn't fixed.

 

Well i'm not seeing anymore than 12lbs. Pulled the intercooler again and checked all the lines and made sure they were zip tied good. Teflon taped the brass fitting and made sure everything was clean and tight on the intercooler hoses. No holes or anything in the boots. They looked good. I thought for sure I'd see a change. At one time I had unlimited free access to a dyno but unfortunately they sold it so I don't know what else to try other than swapping the boost gauge out to see if it's that.

 

That is not an unreasonable step at this point.

 

yea my car has a racepak but I know some other guys that may have one that'll work. I'll let you guys know.

 

It's the gauge. Had a buddy with a Carbon Autometer gauge and it hit 16 lbs first time out. So i'll be giving Summit a call in the morning. Thanks for the help.