Drivetrain Where to grab boost reading on 2011+ N18?
Where to grab boost reading on 2011+ N18?
So, after going through several threads and plenty of pages of discussion over the last week, I think most of us are of the opinion that the N18 is quite a bit different in the vac/boost department sensor-wise.
After dealing with all of the issues with my boost tap (and then finding out it's not only me having issues), I foolishly ordered a BSH tap for my 2011 not realizing that the N18 no longer has the PCV hose needed for that installation.
Obviously, the boost tap @ the MAP sensor failed miserably for me, and again - that seems normal for N18 users.
So... does anyone have an idea for where to grab a solid vac/boost reading for a mechanical gauge? If not, I'll have to just move to Aeroforce and be done with it.
After dealing with all of the issues with my boost tap (and then finding out it's not only me having issues), I foolishly ordered a BSH tap for my 2011 not realizing that the N18 no longer has the PCV hose needed for that installation.
Obviously, the boost tap @ the MAP sensor failed miserably for me, and again - that seems normal for N18 users.
So... does anyone have an idea for where to grab a solid vac/boost reading for a mechanical gauge? If not, I'll have to just move to Aeroforce and be done with it.
Has the option to drill / tap of the cold-side hard boost pipe come to mind?
That would be a viable option as it's easy to source a direct replacement as a spare to modify.
- Erik
That would be a viable option as it's easy to source a direct replacement as a spare to modify.
- Erik
Hmm... Hadn't thought of that yet. That should supply a vacuum pressure in addition to the boost, correct?
I'll look at the ETK to see the pipe you're talking about. Then, see how much it costs to buy a replacement!

Which number are you talking about on the left side for reference? Around 7, or around 4? EDIT: Scratch that - the R60 has no noisemaker.
I'll look at the ETK to see the pipe you're talking about. Then, see how much it costs to buy a replacement!


Which number are you talking about on the left side for reference? Around 7, or around 4? EDIT: Scratch that - the R60 has no noisemaker.
Last edited by Theta; Oct 24, 2011 at 07:03 PM.
Just got under the hood again and saw that there's another MAP sensor on the cold pipe. Plunked the boost tap that I had on there, and it fits fine (along with the MAP sensor).
I'm going to test it and report back tonight.

I'm going to test it and report back tonight.

Is that your only concern, ...vacuum?
Both the N14 and N18 *barely* pull any vacuum to begin with based on the engine design.
That's why there's a vacuum pump for the brake system as the engine doesn't have enough draw, especially with Valvetronic.
- Erik
Both the N14 and N18 *barely* pull any vacuum to begin with based on the engine design.
That's why there's a vacuum pump for the brake system as the engine doesn't have enough draw, especially with Valvetronic.
- Erik
Well, I wouldn't say 'barely'. We're talking about 22-26Hg of vacuum created which is certainly enough to keep an eye one with a boost/vac gauge.
The boost isn't a huge problem, but it's great to see both in case of a vac leak, etc.
The boost isn't a huge problem, but it's great to see both in case of a vac leak, etc.
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If so, that could be why you won't see vacuum readings in the intake system?
- Erik
I discovered this as well theta, blue fox is right. N18 uses valvetronic control to set idle.
+1. I think you can set your boost refresh on the AF Interceptor as fast as 20 Hz on a Gen 2 MINI. Not quite mechanical analog speedy, but pretty much within the time a human can react to the information. Plus, the install is so easy and non-intrusive. Biggest shortfall IMHO is the lack of amber gauge lighting analogous to the OEM instruments.
The main tap point as in the image in post #4? The sensor is definitely too long to fit in the hole. It gets to the green O-ring then it won't go in further, it's not that I'm just not pushing hard enough.
If I line up the sensor to the outside of the tap, the sensor is about 1/16" longer than the tap itself.
If I line up the sensor to the outside of the tap, the sensor is about 1/16" longer than the tap itself.
That is not the main tap point - that was just an auxiliary we were trying.
The main MAP sensor point is at the rear of the engine near the middle. That's the point everybody uses, and the manufacturers design for.
The main MAP sensor point is at the rear of the engine near the middle. That's the point everybody uses, and the manufacturers design for.
Yep - exactly!
That's the crummy part about the N18 - I think I was one of the first people to mess with this on the N18, and got all confused in the mean time. The N18 makes you choose - monitor vacuum with tapping into the vac line, or measure boost from the MAP sensor. Either/or.
Or, I guess you could have a pure boost sensor and a pure vac sensor... Kind of a lot of clutter, though!
That's the crummy part about the N18 - I think I was one of the first people to mess with this on the N18, and got all confused in the mean time. The N18 makes you choose - monitor vacuum with tapping into the vac line, or measure boost from the MAP sensor. Either/or.
Or, I guess you could have a pure boost sensor and a pure vac sensor... Kind of a lot of clutter, though!


