Drivetrain Alignment after Lowering the MINI
I'm getting a set of H&R springs this week (total drop is ~1.2"
. After doing the install, I'd like to get the alignment re-shot.
Does anyone know how the alignment specs should be adjusted after lowering?
Thanks in advance
. After doing the install, I'd like to get the alignment re-shot.Does anyone know how the alignment specs should be adjusted after lowering?
Thanks in advance
Dave:
Just in time for autoX!?
I can't wait to hear your thoughts on the ride and handling. Who's doing the install and alignment?
You probably already have these and I don't know if this will help any. Here are the stock numbers from another post:
Front Axle:
Camber (diff. Between L/R max. 30’)
0° -26’ + 25’
Track Diff angle w/20 lock on inside of wheel
-1° 16’ + 30’
Caster (diff between L/H max. 30’)W/10° wheel lock
+4° 41’ + 30’
W/20° wheel lock
+4° 49’ + 30’
Rear Axle:
Total Toe
0° 24’ + 08’
Camber (diff. Between L/R max. 30’)
-1° -18’ + 30’
Geometrical axis deviation
0° +/- 12’
Just in time for autoX!?
I can't wait to hear your thoughts on the ride and handling. Who's doing the install and alignment?You probably already have these and I don't know if this will help any. Here are the stock numbers from another post:
Front Axle:
Camber (diff. Between L/R max. 30’)
0° -26’ + 25’
Track Diff angle w/20 lock on inside of wheel
-1° 16’ + 30’
Caster (diff between L/H max. 30’)W/10° wheel lock
+4° 41’ + 30’
W/20° wheel lock
+4° 49’ + 30’
Rear Axle:
Total Toe
0° 24’ + 08’
Camber (diff. Between L/R max. 30’)
-1° -18’ + 30’
Geometrical axis deviation
0° +/- 12’
Yeah, I'll have the springs on in time for mferguson and I to drive the MINI at the BMW CCA autocross on the 20th. :smile:
I'll Private Message you about the installer
I'll Private Message you about the installer
Dave,
I am just getting into auto-x (re-entering i should say). My question regards modifications like lowering and induction kits. Do these mods affect the class you are running? I know a stock MCS is classed into the GS group. Where do you anticipate being classed after these mods?
Thanks!
Garth
I am just getting into auto-x (re-entering i should say). My question regards modifications like lowering and induction kits. Do these mods affect the class you are running? I know a stock MCS is classed into the GS group. Where do you anticipate being classed after these mods?
Thanks!
Garth
This is just a local BMW CCA event. All the MINI's are going into the "non-BMW" class.
This will be my first autocross, but it's my understanding (I'm sure someone far more experienced will come along to clarify) that springs like this would affect the classing since you're no longer on the stock suspension.
This will be my first autocross, but it's my understanding (I'm sure someone far more experienced will come along to clarify) that springs like this would affect the classing since you're no longer on the stock suspension.
I have lowered my Mini S a few weeks back and although I don't know the specs for alignment be aware that you CANNOT adjust out the negative camber in the rear end.
After you lower it you the car's stock negative camber is going to be exaggerated. You can't dial it out unless you buy the some other after market parts.
I did NOT replace my shocks and the ride is noticably stiffer. It will take the car about 3 - 4 days to completely settle, so it will actually get lower with time. This may require an additional alignment.
If I had it to do over (and I suppose I can still do it), I would have gone with compatible shocks. The stock shocks are now operating with very little travel left. If I hit a serious dip in the road at speed I can feel my spine compressing. In really rough conditions I can hear the shocks bottoming out.
My 2 cents.
After you lower it you the car's stock negative camber is going to be exaggerated. You can't dial it out unless you buy the some other after market parts.
I did NOT replace my shocks and the ride is noticably stiffer. It will take the car about 3 - 4 days to completely settle, so it will actually get lower with time. This may require an additional alignment.
If I had it to do over (and I suppose I can still do it), I would have gone with compatible shocks. The stock shocks are now operating with very little travel left. If I hit a serious dip in the road at speed I can feel my spine compressing. In really rough conditions I can hear the shocks bottoming out.
My 2 cents.
Patrick, a couple questions
- Which springs did you use?
- Is you MCS a post March build? And thus did you get springs that were designed for the seriew 2 suspension?
- Which springs did you use?
- Is you MCS a post March build? And thus did you get springs that were designed for the seriew 2 suspension?
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Dave - two words of warning for you:
1) Make sure to get shocks that are appropriate with those spring rates or your Mini will ride like my 66' F-100. You do not want to have to send another $200-300 in labor getting each corner re-done.
2) Cover that manifold fan under the car (with a shield like from Moss) or the first rock that is 2" high that you run over will take it out - as well as your 2 fans inside your engine bay due to the electrical short.
We currently have a small shield in development now to protect this exposed fan.
You'll have a blast at your AutoX - we just had the Mini's out at the track and they were a BLAST!
-Peter/RSpeed
1) Make sure to get shocks that are appropriate with those spring rates or your Mini will ride like my 66' F-100. You do not want to have to send another $200-300 in labor getting each corner re-done.
2) Cover that manifold fan under the car (with a shield like from Moss) or the first rock that is 2" high that you run over will take it out - as well as your 2 fans inside your engine bay due to the electrical short.
We currently have a small shield in development now to protect this exposed fan.
You'll have a blast at your AutoX - we just had the Mini's out at the track and they were a BLAST!
-Peter/RSpeed
Peter,
Thanks for the tips. I already installed the Moss MINI Skid plate. So that takes care of one concern.
If shocks from Koni or Bilstein were available, I'd be putting those on now too, but lacking that, I'll run the stock shocks until spring when I plan on getting coilovers (hoping H&R will have their's available by then).
I do agree with you that stiffer springs on the stock shocks is not generally the recommended route for long term suspension bliss, but given the alternatives It's the one I'm choosing for the short term.
Oh, and I'm getting some help from a friend with access to a lift and a spring compressor to do the install, so it's probably only going to cost me some beer to get the springs in.
Thanks for the tips. I already installed the Moss MINI Skid plate. So that takes care of one concern.
If shocks from Koni or Bilstein were available, I'd be putting those on now too, but lacking that, I'll run the stock shocks until spring when I plan on getting coilovers (hoping H&R will have their's available by then).
I do agree with you that stiffer springs on the stock shocks is not generally the recommended route for long term suspension bliss, but given the alternatives It's the one I'm choosing for the short term.
Oh, and I'm getting some help from a friend with access to a lift and a spring compressor to do the install, so it's probably only going to cost me some beer to get the springs in.
I have not seen but a few articles listed on the topic of lowering a MC. I have just read that lowering will effect the rear camber and it subsequently cannot be changed. What effect will that have on the performance, ride, and tire wear? Is there anybody that sells the appropriate shocks for the companioned springs. There has to be a cheaper (but with quality) route than the KW coilovers.
Actually PSG, I may have been the one who posted that information to begin with.
I lowered my S and noted a "visible" negative camber on the rear wheels only. Having recently been to a Mini gathering here in Cali, I examined other STOCK S rear suspensions.
The car comes stock with negative camber. I don't know how much, but you can see it if you stand behind one and sight down the side of the car.
Lowering it has only exaggerated the negative camber. Again, I don't know by how much, but you will notice it. So, I expect that the rear tires are going to wear quicker on the insides, unless you religously rotate them.
With the stock rear suspension you cannot change the camber....only toe in and toe out. Mini Mania sells adjustable replacements which would allow it to be adjusted.
That's what I know at this point about this subject.
I lowered my S and noted a "visible" negative camber on the rear wheels only. Having recently been to a Mini gathering here in Cali, I examined other STOCK S rear suspensions.
The car comes stock with negative camber. I don't know how much, but you can see it if you stand behind one and sight down the side of the car.
Lowering it has only exaggerated the negative camber. Again, I don't know by how much, but you will notice it. So, I expect that the rear tires are going to wear quicker on the insides, unless you religously rotate them.
With the stock rear suspension you cannot change the camber....only toe in and toe out. Mini Mania sells adjustable replacements which would allow it to be adjusted.
That's what I know at this point about this subject.
Unsure On How To Read Specs
Originally Posted by 6f7
Dave:
Just in time for autoX!?
I can't wait to hear your thoughts on the ride and handling. Who's doing the install and alignment?
You probably already have these and I don't know if this will help any. Here are the stock numbers from another post:
Front Axle:
Camber (diff. Between L/R max. 30’)
0° -26’ + 25’
Track Diff angle w/20 lock on inside of wheel
-1° 16’ + 30’
Caster (diff between L/H max. 30’)W/10° wheel lock
+4° 41’ + 30’
W/20° wheel lock
+4° 49’ + 30’
Rear Axle:
Total Toe
0° 24’ + 08’
Camber (diff. Between L/R max. 30’)
-1° -18’ + 30’
Geometrical axis deviation
0° +/- 12’
Just in time for autoX!?
I can't wait to hear your thoughts on the ride and handling. Who's doing the install and alignment?You probably already have these and I don't know if this will help any. Here are the stock numbers from another post:
Front Axle:
Camber (diff. Between L/R max. 30’)
0° -26’ + 25’
Track Diff angle w/20 lock on inside of wheel
-1° 16’ + 30’
Caster (diff between L/H max. 30’)W/10° wheel lock
+4° 41’ + 30’
W/20° wheel lock
+4° 49’ + 30’
Rear Axle:
Total Toe
0° 24’ + 08’
Camber (diff. Between L/R max. 30’)
-1° -18’ + 30’
Geometrical axis deviation
0° +/- 12’
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