Drivetrain DoS CAI Installed. Truly Impressed!
As far as the noisemaker is concerned I don't know that it transfers sound from the area of the engine compartment in general but rather a specific sound and probably then, just barely. In other words I don't think the noisemaker will help transfer noise from the CAI.
They're heeeere . . .
Dry Filters are up on the website! 
Here's a link to the vendor announcement on NAM.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...available.html
-Clint
Here's a link to the vendor announcement on NAM.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...available.html
-Clint
I looked into it a few months ago and getting the certification is not all that complicated. What DoS needs is a loyal CA based customer that can go without his MINI for a few days while their car is tested for compliance. I think that we could make it worth their while.
There are a few testing centers in the State of CA. If anyone is interested, let me know. We can see if you're a good fit.
Best,
-Clint
We realize that CARB sticker is a pretty big deal --especially to our customers in SoCal.
I looked into it a few months ago and getting the certification is not all that complicated. What DoS needs is a loyal CA based customer that can go without his MINI for a few days while their car is tested for compliance. I think that we could make it worth their while.
There are a few testing centers in the State of CA. If anyone is interested, let me know. We can see if you're a good fit.
Best,
-Clint
I looked into it a few months ago and getting the certification is not all that complicated. What DoS needs is a loyal CA based customer that can go without his MINI for a few days while their car is tested for compliance. I think that we could make it worth their while.
There are a few testing centers in the State of CA. If anyone is interested, let me know. We can see if you're a good fit.
Best,
-Clint
I would be happy to help, but live in San Diego, which might be a problem for you. That and I have an R60.
On the plus side, apart from window tint and wheels, my car is 100% stock.(Speaking of, is the filter size/shape different for the R60 intake, or does the arrival of these filters mean that project is back on?)
It is a big deal insofar as intakes (unlike intercoolers) are subject to CARB. One of the cool things about the DoS is that it looks awesome. Of course, the cooler a part looks, the more likely it will be to draw scrutiny from an inspector.
I would be happy to help, but live in San Diego, which might be a problem for you. That and I have an R60.
On the plus side, apart from window tint and wheels, my car is 100% stock.
(Speaking of, is the filter size/shape different for the R60 intake, or does the arrival of these filters mean that project is back on?)
I would be happy to help, but live in San Diego, which might be a problem for you. That and I have an R60.
On the plus side, apart from window tint and wheels, my car is 100% stock.(Speaking of, is the filter size/shape different for the R60 intake, or does the arrival of these filters mean that project is back on?)
The R60 filter development has remained in motion and is moving forward. DoS has a lot of projects and parts in their R&D phase at present. It's been a crazy-busy summer.
-Clint
We will be seeking CARB certification for the R60 intake as well. Let me check on the testing centers near your area. I'll get back to you after Minis in the Mountains.
The R60 filter development has remained in motion and is moving forward. DoS has a lot of projects and parts in their R&D phase at present. It's been a crazy-busy summer.
-Clint
The R60 filter development has remained in motion and is moving forward. DoS has a lot of projects and parts in their R&D phase at present. It's been a crazy-busy summer.
-Clint
Is that whistle how it is in real life or does it just sound like that in the video? I love turbo sounds and the like but that does not sound like turbo sound, that sounds like fast moving air through a hole that is creating a whistle.
So during installation I managed to break all of the apron clips that secure to the bulkhead while separating those parts. I started with the passenger side like the instructions say. I had no problem on the drivers side because I knew what I was getting in to after the first attempt.
Does anyone have any ideas on how I can fix this when I put the aprons and bulkhead back together? I don't think it's a huge deal but perhaps a couple dobs of glue or some double sided foam tape? I'd hate for that panel to be flapping and rattling. Ugh!
Does anyone have any ideas on how I can fix this when I put the aprons and bulkhead back together? I don't think it's a huge deal but perhaps a couple dobs of glue or some double sided foam tape? I'd hate for that panel to be flapping and rattling. Ugh!
So during installation I managed to break all of the apron clips that secure to the bulkhead while separating those parts. I started with the passenger side like the instructions say. I had no problem on the drivers side because I knew what I was getting in to after the first attempt.
Does anyone have any ideas on how I can fix this when I put the aprons and bulkhead back together? I don't think it's a huge deal but perhaps a couple dobs of glue or some double sided foam tape? I'd hate for that panel to be flapping and rattling. Ugh!
Does anyone have any ideas on how I can fix this when I put the aprons and bulkhead back together? I don't think it's a huge deal but perhaps a couple dobs of glue or some double sided foam tape? I'd hate for that panel to be flapping and rattling. Ugh!

You can probably use some self adhesive "outdoor grade" velcro if you place it strategically. Just clean the plastic really well with denatured alcohol beforehand.
Also, if you're at all interested in a new set of apron panels, I have a set sitting around at the shop. They're around $120 to $150 from the dealer, but they're taking-up valuable shelf space. I can let them go for $65 shipped. Drop me a PM if you're interested.
-Clint
Clint thanks for the offer but it all worked out fine. I broke 2 of the 3 tabs passenger side. Funny thing was I was being careful when pop the whole thing came up. I was barely pulling. No problem though. I just used some outdoor double sided sponge tape and problem solved.
So during installation I managed to break all of the apron clips that secure to the bulkhead while separating those parts. I started with the passenger side like the instructions say. I had no problem on the drivers side because I knew what I was getting in to after the first attempt.
I'm ordering my DoS this evening and would love a heads up before installing it later this week.
When you get to the stage where you have everything unbolted or loosened the directions tell you to lift up on the passenger side bulkhead first then follow with the drivers side. You'll see the reason once you get into it but basically it's because the passenger side apron lays over the drivers side by a bit.
My best advice, and what worked for me, was to gently pull the bulkhead away toward the front of the car while lifting up on the apron. You'll be able to somewhat tell where the clips are when you do this and it seems to help line things up and separate the clips more easily. If you feel to much resistance stop and take a look where it's happening. Also, open the battery and master cylinder compartments so you can use them as a spot to get your hands in to lift on the aprons.
If I had done this from the start rather than simply lifting up I'm positive I wouldn't have broken a single clip. If you do by chance break a clip or two it's not a big deal as they're not a must have.
My best advice, and what worked for me, was to gently pull the bulkhead away toward the front of the car while lifting up on the apron. You'll be able to somewhat tell where the clips are when you do this and it seems to help line things up and separate the clips more easily. If you feel to much resistance stop and take a look where it's happening. Also, open the battery and master cylinder compartments so you can use them as a spot to get your hands in to lift on the aprons.
If I had done this from the start rather than simply lifting up I'm positive I wouldn't have broken a single clip. If you do by chance break a clip or two it's not a big deal as they're not a must have.
When you get to the stage where you have everything unbolted or loosened the directions tell you to lift up on the passenger side bulkhead first then follow with the drivers side. You'll see the reason once you get into it but basically it's because the passenger side apron lays over the drivers side by a bit.
My best advice, and what worked for me, was to gently pull the bulkhead away toward the front of the car while lifting up on the apron. You'll be able to somewhat tell where the clips are when you do this and it seems to help line things up and separate the clips more easily. If you feel to much resistance stop and take a look where it's happening. Also, open the battery and master cylinder compartments so you can use them as a spot to get your hands in to lift on the aprons.
If I had done this from the start rather than simply lifting up I'm positive I wouldn't have broken a single clip. If you do by chance break a clip or two it's not a big deal as they're not a must have.
My best advice, and what worked for me, was to gently pull the bulkhead away toward the front of the car while lifting up on the apron. You'll be able to somewhat tell where the clips are when you do this and it seems to help line things up and separate the clips more easily. If you feel to much resistance stop and take a look where it's happening. Also, open the battery and master cylinder compartments so you can use them as a spot to get your hands in to lift on the aprons.
If I had done this from the start rather than simply lifting up I'm positive I wouldn't have broken a single clip. If you do by chance break a clip or two it's not a big deal as they're not a must have.
I agree. Here's to hoping my DoS shipped today so I can install it this week. 
Thanks to both of you guys!

Thanks to both of you guys!
-Clint
If you have a JCW Stage 1 intake...stick with it. You will see very limited if any performance increase by going away from a JCW S1 intake. If you want the sound of your blow off valve, then go with DOS or an open box intake. The JCW S1 and DOS are still truly cold air intakes and are still the best performance, anything else only breathes hot air from your engine. JCW S1 is the only CAI that uses a dry cone filter. All others use oiled filters that "can" cause MAF issues and void warranties.
IMO, JCW Stage 1...best bang for the buck, warrantee, dry filter and great performance.
IMO, JCW Stage 1...best bang for the buck, warrantee, dry filter and great performance.
Along the same lines, is there an advantage for replacing the air filter with a K&N or something or stay with stock JCW filter?
Sorry for quoting a post from a year ago, but it addresses my question. So, if I have a JCW S1 intake, there is NO advantage to switching to another CAI? DDM Works is only 15 minutes from me.
Along the same lines, is there an advantage for replacing the air filter with a K&N or something or stay with stock JCW filter?
Along the same lines, is there an advantage for replacing the air filter with a K&N or something or stay with stock JCW filter?
All that being said -- If you already have a JCW S1 Intake there is an advantage to replacing the JCW paper cone filter with a high flow, more efficient, washable replacement unit that uses dry (no oil) filter media. We just got some dry (no oil) filters in this week that work great, never need to be thrown away, and don't break the bank.
I'll have them up on the website by Friday afternoon 10/19 if you want to place an order. If you can't wait until the afternoon, drop me an email for more info or give me a call and we can do an order over the phone.
-Clint


