Hello,
I have a modded Mini Cooper S 2010. I just took it to the shop and they told me that my K&N filter is letting dust in. Is this normal? Does anyone have a alternet solution for a CAI for the cooper R56?

 

having used K&N's on cars off and on for 20 years, when I found the telltale red oil literally over a foot down the intake tract from the filter and replaced a $400 MAF on a V8 Audi, that was it for me. And, that's with very light oil and many years experience, including letting any re-oil wick and settle overnight before installing and start up. And checked the MAF with the VAG-COM diagnostic software (that in general makes the Mini/BMW software stuff look like line editor simplistic) and found it reading airflow 20% off; basically meant my car ran way lean and HP was now way down. Thus bluntly, my experience is in the long run, K&N's are performance frustrators and damaged expensive MAF's. When you see the MAF construction inside and know they are intolerant to any oils, pretty obvious in my mind K&N's belong with pre-MAF cars, Holleys, Webbers and that sort of genre.

Thus I now focus on quality of OEM type filters--how many pleats, type of media, etc., and change them (or blow them out) frequently. And since MINI fundamentally has a basic cold air intake tube from the grill area of seemingly sufficient size, that's good enough for me. Particularly after the post a week or two back that I recall from someone in Germany saying his Autobahn legal top speed was DOWN many MPH with a brand name aftermarket CAI compared to earlier stock.

Thus, I ended up with the JCW kit intake with the cone filter (100 in2 roughly of filter vs. maybe 60 in2 for the normal panel one), and have on order the JCW tube post air box and MAF leading to the turbo. With that, noisemaker and muffler deletes, I'm calling the intake side good to go for now on my 2010 MCS, plus staying close to stock look for warranty.

 

What did they offer you as proof? Sounds like they want to sell you their brand filter..

 

Dont you know.......




HOVER BOARDS DONT WORK ON WATERRRR!



UNLESS YOU HAVE POWERRRR!



HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH




jk,

Just pull the hose off the turbo and stick your finger in and see what you can get out, it will be oily if you dont have a catch can.

 

That's exactly what I would say. Show me the proof!!

 

Yes...yes....yes. I have been saying this for years. K&N filters were diesigned for throttle body/carb cars. Any hot wire MAF sensor intake tract I have ever had that used a K&N was ruined within a few hundred miles. They just don't work with cars that use a hot wire. I now only use PAPER and it's one reason why if I did upgrade to intake for the MINI, it would be the JCW intake. K&N's are great for a muscle car or an older car that doesn't utilize a hot wire MAF but for the newer stuff. STAY AWAY.

 

+1

I recommend the JCW kit airbox with a cone filter.
That is what i am using. No problems whatsoever.

 

Wonder if K&N makes a PreCharger wrap that would fit it.

I got one of thier DryCharger wraps for my Alta intake so that when I hit the winter touchless washes it doesnt spray all the water right into the darned thing.

 

I guess I'm having great luck then. I've had an oil K&N cone filter on my R56 for almost 40,000 miles. Maybe because I clean the MAF every oil change I'm not having failed MAF sensors?

 

Not meaning to rub it in, but as I recall I lost the MAF at between 40 and 50K miles on the MAF Audi w/ the K&N. And, it was only obvious because it was an automatic and it started upsetting the TCU and kicking out a CEL. I tried cleaning MAF with 93% alcohol as well as electronics cleaner--they are hot wire though so any junk would get likely get cooked on the wire. As mentioned before, when I checked it via VAG-COM software. indicated flow was down 20%, which means my 300HP car was maybe more like 240HP (rule of thumb was g/s of flow/.8 = HP and I was down from 250 g/s to 200) until I replaced MAF and donated my K&N to BFI.

 

OP - it's unlikely it's letting dust in but more likely to be letting in oil.

I've been against oiled filters for quite a long time now too. I had to have my intake track cleaned from oil on the maf and two sensors along the intake tube. I just use paper filters now too.

 

I guess time will tell with my R56. No MAF codes yet!

 

I cannot speak for anybody elses experience(s) other than my own. Any and every hot wire car that I ever owned that used a K&N had MAF failure or degredation.

 

I'm glad I stumbled on this thread. I was about to buy a K&N filter replacement for my car, but after reading these posts I'm definitely staying with paper filters.

 

This debate has been going on for a really long time with backers on both sides.

It is difficult to prove cause and effect in all these debates unless you have a controlled experiment.

I agree with motormouth that you should not over oil any mesh/foamed oiled filter, K&N or otherwise. Otherwise, use what you are comfortable with.

 

how is it difficult to prove that oil on the MAF came from an oil type filter?

 

There are studies by the vendors that show that oil on the MAF does not cause any failure. Not that I trust these. But who knows what it all means? What does all these opinions prove?

 

FYI, Afe offers an oil-free replacement panel filter as well as their standard blue-oil panel filter that's similar in construction to a K&N panel filter. This might be a better alternative than using an oiled filter.

Afe Pro-dry S filter:

http://www.afeintakestore.com/aFe-31...-Cooper-S.html

 

In my case anyway, not hard. K&N filter oil is red. Unlike any motor oil I would ever be using. I found it down (up) at the aluminum silver throttle body between 18 and 24" beyond the filter on an Audi 4.2 V8--very light reddish mist like fine coat; also a good 12" rise from the lower located air box up to the high mounted throttle body. MAF on that car is about half way in between.

And to the other posts, yes I know how to lightly oil them. Actually also found the oil in another non-MAF car w/ a K&N factory oiled (as in, new enough to have no question about how carefully it was re-oiled) filter. At that point I was realizing it seems systemic.

 

Just for kicks all...

http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massair.htm

 

lol ive never had a problem myself and lightly oil all my filters. I didnt even know there was a myth though.

 

I have heard of the issue, but I have ran K&N filters in every car I have owned and have not had any issue. I did find some oil in the bottom of the filter housing when I put in my DDMWorks intake, but it was not in the hose to the turbo. I am also very diligent on lightly oiling my filters though. Also, the link I posted above is great. If dealers hassle you about it, K&N is willing to step up and defend their products.

 

Oh I have heard it all over the years. K&N defending you....c'mon. The dealer will laugh at you and so will a lawyer. I have never headr of a lawyer attempting to defend anybody using the Magnusson Moss warranty act or whatever it's called. At the end of the day it's between you and the dealer and you will lose almost every time. I've been there, I've done that.

As far as K&N filters not being troublesome on hot wire cars....again, I can only speak from my experience. Every hot wire car that I have ever put one on has had MAF failure shortly after. These are factory oiled filters. I am not trying to bash K&N either...I use their filters on other cars with great success.

 

Like I said before, this topic can get heated with people on both sides. To me, most are just opinions and the issues or not cannot be proven or unproven with so little actual data points. It is like saying all Minis prince engines have bad seals just because it happened to me. or someone saying Minis would never have any issues because I did not have one.

I always advocate learning about it and making up your own mind. No matter what be prudent with the oil.

 

Actually I replaced my air box as well. The fittings on the back were broken and the torque bolts were stripped It’s really responsive now, even with a light right foot. It did throw a code on the way home. (Should have taken a pic) Some kind of manufacturer p0492 or p0491 possibly? I cleared it out and it still runs fine. I also let the oil wick for almost 24 hours. I gave it a very even light coat of oil. I’m liking the difference from both changes right now.