Yes, I did a search. Nothing.

Can anyone tell me proper torque wrench setting for spark plugs? I bought a cooler set and need to install them.

Any tips for someone who's never changed plugs before? Is it any more complicated than old plug out/new plug in?

 

20ft-lbs or 27NM

 

Remember to use some anti-seize compound or those plugs are gonna be a b*tch to remove later!

 

Here's a great thread on spark plugs: http://bit.ly/gar11l
You can IM czar if you have any specific questions or better yet, post them.

 

I saw that post but frankly was overwhelmed with all the info (so much so I missed the torque settings buried...who'da thunk they were plug specific)

Thanks. I'll go check my box and see what I have.

 

10-4 on the anti-seize, however, that can give you a false torque reading. The Bentley manual states 20 ft.lbs. but doesn't mention using anti-seize.

I torque at 18 ft.lbs. when using anti-seize and have re-checked them often (with every oil change) and never found a loose plug.

 

Definitely check the torque reading on them every so often since it seems this head on the coopers likes to spit spark plugs from what I have read. But I have been setting my tq wrench to just over 20 ft/lbs

 

Thanks for all that...

Next question...I went to change the plugs today and can't figure out how to remove the old ones, that is the caps and wires. Do they pull off? Twist off? I'm a newb at DIY maintenance and if I've learned anything, these jobs always have a "gotcha" if you're not paying attention.

I've tried searching but the search engine either returns too much or nothing at all of use...is there a thread describing the plug change process anywhere?

Thanks

 

A good tip that I picked up a few years ago is to use a short piece of rubber hose (1/4 inch) to start the plug. You put the tip of the spark plug in the hose and use the hose as an extension to start the plug. That way, if the plug starts to cross thread, the tip of the spark plug will slip in the hose, preventing you from cross threading the spark plug.

 

...or you could use a spark plug socket (I consider this a requirement). Start it by hand with only the socket extender.

The plug wires simply pull out. However, due to length, some wires need to be disconnected from the coil. There are numbers printed on the wires and raised numbers on the coil pack to help you return them to the right spot. Only remove one plug at a time.

Anti-seize will give you the correct torque reading, dirty, bare threads are what can give false readings. Only a small dab smeared into the threads is needed.

 

Here is a related question that someone might be able to answer. Does having an extension bar (not a "cheater bar") on your torque wrench change the amount of torque that you are applying to the fastener? I remember reading that it does, but I don't remember the details.

I don't believe that it makes a great deal of difference, but perhaps someone can clarify.

 

Basically, the longer the extension, the more the material deforms elastically under load. This will change the torque at the fastener. The angular deflection under torsion reduces the output on the bolt, but by how much I have no idea.

For all intensive purposes, and since there is no other way of getting to some spark plugs and bolts, you just have to assume there is no loss of torque with an extender. I put my plugs in at 21ft-lb as recommended by a local mechanic. I would assume that the extra 1 foot pound indicated on the wrench means the plug is at 20ft-lb due to the torque loss of the "springy" socket extender.

 

OK, this is why I asked the question.

I just went to my car and tried to pull off the spark plug cap and wire. When it came loose I was surprised to find that a six inch plastic tube came out. Where in the heck is the spark plug? I hate to sound like such a newb but it was never this hard before...

I REALLY need a full thread with pictures...

 

Tough to take pics in there. As long as the six inch plastic tube was still attached to the top of the spark plug wire, you're all good. The plugs are WAY down there - it's not like the old days (or a subaru) where you can see the spark plugs sticking out of the head.
As said above, you need a LONG extension. I think I use a 12". The plugs are down there, I promise!

 

I discovered that when I found a video of DB (WWR) changing his plugs. I'm god now (never would I have even considered that the plugs and plug wires were air-gapped by 6 inches.)