I am a Toyota tech. Just did my first cooper S clutch.

I read the guide by texas motor works plus talked to a friend who has done a fair amount of cooper work. My friend suggested taking out the motor/ trans as a unit with the S, then separating motor trans out of the car.
First impressions,
- Shift cables are hard to get off. I'll be buying the special tool.
- It's a big job so don't think of it as a clutch but more like an engine replacement.
- Bleeding the clutch hydraulics is difficult, I made a special tool after watching a youtube video.
-The frame extension tube bolts and motor mount bolts look the same but have different thread pitch. Don't ask me how I know that...
I enjoyed working on Cooper. I may be getting a Cooper soon. Nice drive experience.

 

Sounds like things went relatively smoothly.

 

I did the job without the special tools. I am also looking for a source for the tools. A google search has not turned up anything concrete.
You tube video on clutch bleed:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68PIYbXk1nc

The engine will not crack its own oil pan but it will not balance without wood blocks underneath since the bottom is uneven. I will probably use a transmission floor jack for the next one since maneuvering the engine / trans with a regular floor jack is treacherous.

I used the Valeo clutch kit. It has a regular flywheel and new bolts in the kit.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VALEO...#ht_2723wt_726

As for going relatively smoothly it was a bear. I put the friction plate on backwards and had to redo the job!!!!!!!
I can do a mini s clutch in about 10 hours now that I have done it twice.

 

Great info, thanks again for sharing.

 

If you have bear-like upper body strength and a lift, you can drop the front lower subframe and some other tidbits and drip the tranny out of the bottom after removing the axels and everything.
The guy who did my clutch change for me (Way Motor Works mechanic) did it in 4 hours this way.

 

Interesting... I see how droping the subframe could be faster since the electric power steering makes it easier to pull the sub fram and rack together. Does anyone have an opinion on mini cooper s clutch job. What is easier, drop the subframe or pull motor and trans together. I think on the non s it is easier to go the sub frame route. The supercharger manifold must be removed to seperate the motor trans which makes it unclear wether it is easier to pull motor trans together or not.

 

As for special tools, try 'www.samstagsales.com'

 

On the Non s it can be done in place, nonsubframe removal needed on most cars...I've seen it done!!
Some cars do not cooperate.....it is very tight, and you need a lift!!

 

I have a lift and work at a shop as a technician. I'm just wondering if the subframe off trans only removal or engine trans unit removal is better for doing a clutch on the Cooper S.

 

Considering WayMotorWorks drops the subframe and it only took 4 hours, thats the way to do it. They have done as many, if not more clutch jobs then any other place on NAM. Putting the car into service mode is very easy, and you have to remove very many items.

 

I pulled the subframe only when I did my clucth over the summer, jackstands and a transmission jack. That said I was removing the frame to do my control arm bushings anyway... but I still dont see removing the whole engine as being quicker/easier.

 

When I replaced the CVT transmission in my 03' Cooper, I did it by dropping the subframe, supporting the engine up and dropping just the transmission out. I still had to remove the MFE so that i can access the bolts holding the transmission to the engine.

 

I was surprised how easily the main harness detaches from the fuse box and ecu. It is obvious that the car was designed with easy engine / trans unit removal in mind. That being said I will still try subframe trans only removal technique on the next mcs that rolls into the shop needing a clutch.
4 hours seems like a NASCAR pit stop style job. I would be happy to get it down from 10 to 8 hours. The job pays 14 hours book time so it is nothing that needs to be rushed.
FYI all the newer Hondas seem to need subframe dropped for trans removal so we are very accustomed to dropping the sub frame. The difference between mini Cooper and say a Honda CRV is that the Honda does not have the removable front end so there is only one way to get the trans out. With mini there are two choices, trans out the bottom after removing sub frame or engine trans out the front with the sub frame in place. Another consideration besides straight tech hours is that we always align any vehicle that has had the sub frame dropped. So add $100 alignment after sub frame has been dropped.

 

I didn't even think about the need for an alignment after a subframe drop.

 

The exhaust manifold gasket is metal and does not need to be replaced. You will need special mini cooper gear oil although it seemed like regular 90wt gear oil to me.
I wanted to use the cherry picker but there were not any lift points. One of the special tools is a bolt on lift point. Also you will definitely need the serpentine belt tool since the a/c compressor stays with the car when engine trans is removed.

The mini I repaired had a good rear main seal. Only replace the seal if it is leaking. A bit of residual oil around the seal is normal.

 

Is it possible to use an engine lift by grabbing the pass. side engine mount as well as the transmission mount?

 

See, being in the northeast any time I have to touch the exhaust I know will add 4 hours to the job.

I am not totally convinced that the mini needs to be aligned after a subfram drop, the front subframe mounts have two dowels that locate the frame to the body. I'd be curious to see what the alignment looks like on a MINI before and after dropping the frame. Certainly the alignment doesnt hurt, but if you dont have to spend the money...

 

Did someone say clutch job?

my record for engine and tranny out is an hour and 5min by myself. Then again I've done it at least 10x in the past year. It takes a little more time putting it back in, but not much. I could do it in 2.5 hours from start to finish including seperating the transmission from the engine and replacing the fly/clutch/pressureplate. BUT this in on my car which is nothing like a stock MINI.

 

So do you drop the sub frame or leave it in place when you do a clutch?

 

both as one unit.

 

What do you put under the engine to roll it out when it is disconnected. Floor jack or other equipment?

 

When we roll it out the front like that we put one jack under the trans and one under the oil pan and pull it out the front.

 

The first Cooper clutch job I performed was a few weeks back. It was a Cooper S. I may have a second Cooper clutch job this coming Monday. The customer has not committed yet but I'm guessing they will want to continue being able to use their clutch pedal.
This one is a non S. With the non s it seems like dropping the sub frame and pulling the trans alone would be faster and easier. I will update this post with pics if I am cracking open a Cooper on Monday.

 

Good post.
Lots of good ideas.
Tks. for sharing.

 

Engine and tranny, or engine/tranny/subframe?