Hi Everyone,

So as some of you have seen, I've been busy lately replacing my clutch, flywheel, and differential and finally got all done with the swap. I decided on the Lightweight Clutchmasters Flywheel with an FX100 clutch. I finally finished the job yesterday and since there was very little written on the fx100, I thought I'd share my thoughts.

The clutch pedal feels great. Smooth travel and very consistent engagement. Looking at the pressure plate prior to install, it looks like a modified Luk (OEM) pressure plate. No complaints here.

The lightweight flywheel also revs quickly, and makes shifting up or down very pleasurable.

The FX100 clutch is a sprung hub organic clutch and unfortunately compared to the stock clutch is very on/off. I'm not sure if this will change over the break in or what, but I get lots of chatter even when I am very careful. Revs are required for a somewhat smooth start. The best way I've found to get it going, is a little gas, pull the clutch out till it grips just a little then smoothly pull it all the way out. Its not graceful, but it works.

Overall I like the combo while driving, but in stop and go traffic, I am not sure it will be as streetable as they market it. Also, since this is a daily driver, in snow, it might make for some tough driving.

For my next clutch, it will probably be an OEM combo. I liked my stock unit fine and if it wasn't for the new girlfriend learning to drive the car (our only car) I could have easily gotten 100k out of it. Just wish there was an in between setup. The "lighter weight" option.

 

did you get the hydraulic lines bled? The on/off issue can sometimes be caused by that.

 

Yes. I bled the clutch. I've had air in the lines post engine R&R and it felt totally different. This feels very nice and consistent, not spongy like air bubbles do. Thanks for the tip though.

 

The chatter might be, in part, from the single mass flywheel...so no dampening...that and the aluminum flywheels of spec have been called a bit chatty too.
The oem clutch according to some is a Valeo...but LUK does sell an aftermarket dual mass flywheel, so they may be the second supplier of clutches/flywheels/preasure plates...
Good to hear it is all back together and working!!

 

Thanks bud.

When I pulled the stock pressure plate, it had a Luk logo on it, so I'm not sure. Maybe two OE suppliers?

I expected the chattering a bit, at least the noise, but not the way the car felt when it gets up and goes. It's getting just a little bit better the more I drive it, but only time will tell.

I love the more lively feel of the car, its just the starts that are a bit brutal for street driving. I hate looking like I've never driven stick at some stop lights.

 

Yeah...a low tourqe motor like the Mini is helped a bit by the stored inerta of the flywheel...but you get better throttle response...so some give and take.

 

My FX100 took about 500 miles to smooth out. Then it failed at 15,000. Since my original clutch lasted 153,000 miles, I doubt it was my driving style that killed it. I kept the lighter flywheel and put a OEM clutch back in. That was about 55k miles ago.

Jim

 

Yes. It's all a compromise, but to me the MINI is Not made for drag strip driving, but for the twisties... I'm thinking this combo will be great for that environment.

 

Wow. Well I hope I get more than 15k out of it. If not, I may do the same as you. Did you go with a Luk sprung hub clutch?

 

The chatter is just apart of the single mass 11lb flywheel so nothing to be worried about there. The FX100-300 usually don't last very long, some have killed them after 5k, then some like Jimz 15k.

The clutchmasters that has been tried and tested over and over for longevity, reliability, and ability to hold power is the FX400 6 puck sprung. The pedal feel is identical to the other CM clutches, the engagement is the same as the CM clutches because its the same pressure plate.

 

I was always under the impression the longevity issue was due to the Kevlar material. I've spoken to a few that are well over 15k. I guess their quality control isn't the best. Well it's too late now to swap. I'll drive it till it needs replacing, and go from there. Here is to hoping!

 

Good Luck man

 

Thanks! I'll be sure to post back as time goes on. Too many reviews post initial thoughts, but never update how the clutch held up, etc. If the subframe has to come down again, I've got to do some bushings anyhow. Time to save up!

 

So are you saying the FX400 is a good choice? I am in the market for clutches right now and the FX400 and the Spec2 are on the top of my list. Since I have much more power than stock and always looking for more, I need the 400 or comparable clutch.

 

No expense spared I would do OS Giken STR single plate clutch and fly setup.

Budget with room to grow I would do the CM flywheel, CM FX400 6-puck sprung setup.

Then if your thinking LSD no question OS Giken Super Lock LSD.

 

Oh yes im doing a LSD, but I got hint on what to do from Lynn.....

 

Seems odd that Clutchmasters would advertise longer life than stock with the FX100 and FX200 yet some die between 5 and 15k with no change in driving style over stock.

I had a Spec stage 2 clutch and it fused to it's pressure plate in only 8,000 miles. My replacement stock unit has lasted 40,000 miles. But my flywheel has near 80k on it, and has been shuddering badly in first gear at lights. More revs fixes it but I may need a new flywheel soon, clutch too.

Clutchmasters was looking good for a while there, but to hear of some longevity issues like Spec... Honestly, I might just go with a stock set-up again. Too bad the OEM flywheel is $800.

 

I really don't understand why aluminim flywheels cause so many problems with our cars...

I had an aluminum flywheel with a centerfoce clutch (sprung hub) on a 1.6L Honda & a 2.3L Ford with no chatter or driveability problems. I was in outside sales at the time so I drove in congested Seattle traffic for 100+ miles a day.

I wonder why BMW/Mini products experience problems with this upgrade?

 

I am past 15k on mine (FX300), closing on 20,000 very soon no issues at all, that mileage includes several runs on the Dragon and a lot of spirited driving.

 

I have been told that LUK makes an dual-mass flywheel for the mini (it might even be the OEM one since it appears they are one of 2 oem clutch suppliers) for a bit less than the mini branded flywheel....

 

Going with a lightweight flywheel on a r53 compared to a Honda or even a R50 might make the car harder to launch due to the basic charastristc of the mini motor...compareitivly long stroke, low tourque motor (compared to DOHC, v-tec, or even many Domestic desgins)...made worse on the r53 by the lower compression pistion than on the r50...
Remember, a SC motor idles, and runs at lower rpm's natrurally asperated, till the bypass valve is closed...so 0 boost on the initial launch unless the car is reved pretty high...remember the purpose of the bypass valve is to open the SC's pressurized side to the atmosphere at low speed/idle, to get rid of the parasitic drag from it making boost when not needed to make HP, thereby improving mpg.
There are other techniques to improve engine reponsivness...Sprint-booster or tune is the simplest, but a lighter weight damped pulley than the oem crank damper migght be a good safe start, which does not detract from streetability of the car....
Remember, the heavy mass of the flywheel acts as a bank of stored energy in the form inertia, and such, let's the driver be less agressive in geting a decent launch, especially on a hill, without stalling the car. A driver with nearly perfect skills and timing may be able to do better due to better response of the motor with a lightweight flywheel, but I bet even a good driver will flub it up and stall the car at a stop sign on a hill sometimes....

 

Update -

The clutch has definitely become MUCH easier to drive. It is still grabier (is that a word?) than stock, but not untolerable, and I think it would be manageable in the snow we get in the Denver area. I like everything but the gearbox rattle I am getting. I've heard of going to a blend of two different Redline Transmission Oils to help quiet it down. We'll see how that goes. The next question is longevity. I have about 500 miles on it thus far.

 

Lightweight flywheels are going to chatter and thats just the way it is, as far as the FX series clutches go I have heard 400 is the way to go because the 100-300 just do not last. Unless you are going to be putting down some serious power you will probably be fine sticking with OEM.

 

Good to hear the feel is getting better with less of an on/off feel.
I don't think the change in Gearbox oils will make much of a difference...I hope it does...heck easy fix if it works!!
The vibration/rattle is why the OEM went with a Dual-mass flywheel...(it just sucks they are so heavy and $$$.
Is the noise/vibration really annoying...like an old car...or more like an idling truck?

 

My son's car has a similar problem. It's a 2002 which was pumped up to 215 hp. We replaced the clutch and installed an aluminum flywheel a couple of months ago and it shudders really bad if you don't have enough revs. It actually makes the front wheels shudder as well.
The clutch shifts great otherwise. I've had a TR4 race car for 30 years with a 7 pound flywheel and never had a shudder that I can remember. But I do get the revs up higher when I start up versus a street car.
We were worried that something was really wrong with the installation. I thought maybe one of the halfshafts was missing the circlip that holds it in and allowing it to move in and out quickly. Just a thought.