Drivetrain HELP! Idle is WAY too rough.
HELP! Idle is WAY too rough.
I don't want to go over how this happened, but basically I had to take cylinder head off my car to get part of a compression tester out. I also had 2 bent valves replaced.
I put everything back together and the timing was off. The car would also rev really high continuously. I had it towed to a shop and the timming fixed. But they can't fix the idle problem. It literally revs to 3,000RPM or more.
Any Ideas? Thanks.
Mods:
S/c pully
intake
rmw header
alta catback
rmw cam
rmw tune
I put everything back together and the timing was off. The car would also rev really high continuously. I had it towed to a shop and the timming fixed. But they can't fix the idle problem. It literally revs to 3,000RPM or more.
Any Ideas? Thanks.
Mods:
S/c pully
intake
rmw header
alta catback
rmw cam
rmw tune
Man that sounds like a sad story. I feel for you. I can't think of anything you probably have not tried already (Like disconnecting battery and/or scan for codes, check all wires/hoses) Really you have to list just about everything you have tried so folks won't suggest them again.
How about visually checking throttle butterfly to make sure it is closing properly?
Best I can come up with.
If it looks OK, maybe disconnect throttle position sensor to it and generate a code, then clear it. I am fishing here, but who knows?
PS, promise once this is over you tell your sad tale so we all feel better when we are in your shoes.
How about visually checking throttle butterfly to make sure it is closing properly?
Best I can come up with.
If it looks OK, maybe disconnect throttle position sensor to it and generate a code, then clear it. I am fishing here, but who knows?
PS, promise once this is over you tell your sad tale so we all feel better when we are in your shoes.
sounds like a leak somewhere between throttlebody and engine... ( youve got an air/fuel gauge ? is it showing way lean ? )
like faulty supercharger duckts, or fuel injection o ring ( happend to me once )...
try spraying start pilot ( or something like that ) on to these parts while engine is running -> if it revs even higher that instand you found the leak.
like faulty supercharger duckts, or fuel injection o ring ( happend to me once )...
try spraying start pilot ( or something like that ) on to these parts while engine is running -> if it revs even higher that instand you found the leak.
They said there weren't codes. Ill check again. The intake duct in between the s/c and the throttle body isn't bolted up, but it was broken for awhile and was just held in by the pressure of everything else on it.
They said they reset the throttle body. Could a messed up PCV do this?
2md can you tell me about your injector o ring story? thanks.
And what do you mean start pilot? Thanks for the help guys, keep the ideas coming. Its been the worse week of my life =/
They said they reset the throttle body. Could a messed up PCV do this?
2md can you tell me about your injector o ring story? thanks.
And what do you mean start pilot? Thanks for the help guys, keep the ideas coming. Its been the worse week of my life =/
I would go back and check your work again. Sounds to me like the ECU is seaching to compensate for correct idle due to something not hooked back up.
There are two rather large lines which are tied into that lower intake duct as well. One is for the manifold air pressure sensor.
There are two rather large lines which are tied into that lower intake duct as well. One is for the manifold air pressure sensor.
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They said there weren't codes. Ill check again. The intake duct in between the s/c and the throttle body isn't bolted up, but it was broken for awhile and was just held in by the pressure of everything else on it.
They said they reset the throttle body. Could a messed up PCV do this?
2md can you tell me about your injector o ring story? thanks.
And what do you mean start pilot? Thanks for the help guys, keep the ideas coming. Its been the worse week of my life =/
They said they reset the throttle body. Could a messed up PCV do this?
2md can you tell me about your injector o ring story? thanks.
And what do you mean start pilot? Thanks for the help guys, keep the ideas coming. Its been the worse week of my life =/
turned out the o ring of one of the injectors was bad / had a cut
wasn't visible at first, only after i stretched it it became visible.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...242-p0300.html
The same thing on mine is broken, and it seems he had the same problem. I didn't think I broke it, but I guess I might have. Im going to try and buy one today.
The same thing on mine is broken, and it seems he had the same problem. I didn't think I broke it, but I guess I might have. Im going to try and buy one today.
I replaced that intake duct and the car is basically back to normal now besides the EML light being on, and having no power. But the car idles okay and the timing seems to be perfect.
No Idea why the light is on, i'm thinking a vacuum leak somewhere but i'm not sure where. I also don't know what the EML light means. I'm going to do some research.
One more weird thing was this VERY odd vacuum noise i heard at idle for about 5 minutes but so far is hasn't come back.
No Idea why the light is on, i'm thinking a vacuum leak somewhere but i'm not sure where. I also don't know what the EML light means. I'm going to do some research.
One more weird thing was this VERY odd vacuum noise i heard at idle for about 5 minutes but so far is hasn't come back.
I would think that if it idles smooth it's not a vacuum leak. Have you tried doing a basic ECU reset since you did your fix?
Maybe there is an adaptation from your earlier problem that has not reset. (at least you'd be starting ftom scratch as far as that goes.)
Maybe there is an adaptation from your earlier problem that has not reset. (at least you'd be starting ftom scratch as far as that goes.)
Thought it was.
it was in place, but the mount was broken. then when i put it back together the first time, it got misaligned and that was the idle problem.
But now its a new duct and is in place, i even took it apart and double checked today to see if the gasket was on right. It is.
But now its a new duct and is in place, i even took it apart and double checked today to see if the gasket was on right. It is.
Im still really confused as to what this could be. Im going to check fuses tomorrow and triple check my throttle body connection.
If anyone else as ever had the EML light after doing something, please let me know what it was. Thanks.
11psi sucks when your use to 18 =[
If anyone else as ever had the EML light after doing something, please let me know what it was. Thanks.
11psi sucks when your use to 18 =[
Okay so i was driving tonight, got on it and then the rpm's dropped to 2,000 rpm's and wont go over that. I can turn off the car and it'll act normal untill i try to boost, when i do that there is no boost at all. EML light is on, SES light is on and DSC light turns on.
Its 12 am and im to tired to tear it apart right now. Any one experience anything like this?
Its 12 am and im to tired to tear it apart right now. Any one experience anything like this?
Okay so i was driving tonight, got on it and then the rpm's dropped to 2,000 rpm's and wont go over that. I can turn off the car and it'll act normal untill i try to boost, when i do that there is no boost at all. EML light is on, SES light is on and DSC light turns on.
Its 12 am and im to tired to tear it apart right now. Any one experience anything like this?
Its 12 am and im to tired to tear it apart right now. Any one experience anything like this?
Also, I just reviewed the thread, no codes mentioned, they would be very helpful.
If you don't have one the cheap acutron obdII from autozone works just fine for reading and clearing.
Last edited by BlwnAway; Sep 24, 2010 at 07:06 AM.
I had one on my old laptop but i forgot the name and dont have the computer anymore. Ill try getting another one.
Now it seems that the limp home mode doesnt happen anymore, but im still only making 8psi max.
Now it seems that the limp home mode doesnt happen anymore, but im still only making 8psi max.
Swapped the bypass valve, and reset the ecu and everything went back to normal.
Might have lost a couple psi from the valve change/head removal and all that, or it could be because i took my resonator off and freed up the exhaust more, either way 17 psi feels a HELL of a lot better then 8psi or none.
Thanks for the help.
Might have lost a couple psi from the valve change/head removal and all that, or it could be because i took my resonator off and freed up the exhaust more, either way 17 psi feels a HELL of a lot better then 8psi or none.
Thanks for the help.
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