Yes you can keep AP connected while driving. You must turn off the engine to clear any codes.

 

I know know I can leave it on while driving but what I want to do is leave it plugged in when I shut the car off. Right now it stays powered on even with the ignition off.
wondering if there is firmware or a setting I can change that will power it off with the ignition.

 

If you are connected and you turn off the ignition, AP knows it's connected to your vehicle's ECU file, but the current draw is insignificant unless you restart the engine. If you leave it connected it should not be a problem.

 

I know this however I want the unit to power off. I do not want it on while the vehicle is off.
the light alone is an invitation to mave my windows smashed and car stole in a bad area.
i want to know if there is a way to hook it up so that it will power on with the ignition on and power off when the ignitions n is off.

 

With a little ingenuity and an OBD II cable extender, you could build a circuit to turn off the AP with the engine. However, you'd then have the new circuit draining power. Or, just use the extender cable to allow easier AP connect / disconnect.

 

Okay, I'm being a little lazy here because I know I've seen something posted about this on this thread but I can't find it. I just got a catless downpipe and I don't want my car to throw the cel but I know the stage two tune will get rid of it. I also know I can do o2 sensor spacers. So, can you run the stage two tune with just a catless downpipe and stock catback?

 

Any stage on the accessport will mask the o2 sensor code

 

Will I be able to run stage 2 though with stock catback?

 

If you deleted the second cat then you probably could, but I wouldn't until you either delete the second cat or get a DP back exhaust that has bigger diameter pipe.

Is this the thread you were talking about https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ge-1-tune.html

 

Yes it is, put the catless dp on today took about 3 hrs of fiddling around with it but I have the heat Shields back on and didn't have to manipulate the cnt downpipe at all to make it work, all you have to do is convince the pipe to fit so far no cel on stage 1 and I've driven about 17 miles on it so we shall see

 

I have been searching high and low for maps for my Clubman S. A few NAM members have helped me immensely. (Thanks!) However...I haven't managed to find much yet.

That got me thinking...why not make a database of all of the canned tunes we can amass?

Thoughts?

 

EDIT, I found my answer.

 

Curious about this. Does it just prevent the light from coming on, or does it actually prevent the catalyst code completely?
If you take it in for inspection and they hook up the scanner, will it detect the pre and post catalyst readings being identical?

 

I know that I put a catless downpipe on and it's not throwing any codes. Has to get relicensed this year we shall see if I can get through Missouri emissions testing..😳

 

mine went through Arizona emissions with no problem.

 

Looking forward to this. I'm also in Missouri.

 

I happen to know a few "buddies" and there's a few shops south of stl that don't do the sniffer test or whatever it's called, they just check for the engine light. Pm me if you want to know the locations.

 

Well here is a new one. My Accesport
Screen won't light up. Any suggestions

 

I just sent it back to Cobb. They still repair them.

 

Here is a question. What is the primary performance difference between stage one and stage two tunes?

 

I'd like to see a stage 3 map. Be nice to know what HP I can expect with the associated mods.

 

Which tune should I use. Current mods.
2.5 cat back exhaust, FMIC , cold air intake , charge pipe muffler delete , bov Alta spring upgrade , torque solution bov adaptor.

I hot got my Accessport the other day got alittle happy and just flashed the stage 3 tune on my MCS. Car drive great in the street but in the freeway in 6th gear it would go pass 3200-3500 rpm and would go pass 7 psi. Car would feel like it's cutting power so I easied off it.

Im waiting on my car less down pipe and colder spark plugs NGK iridium


should i run run a stage 2 till the other mods get put on? Thanx in advance. Also no Cel right now.

 

If I'm not mistaken, I think you can only run stage 1. To fully utilize stage 2 with no issues, you'll need a 3" turbo back setup. That's what I'm running now on my JCW.

 

Has anyone with the stage 1 tune used this part?

http://altaperformance.com/i-1400712...bo-engine.html

Under the dyno tab:

The ultra smooth interior surfaces of the ALTA Hot Side Boost Tube combined with the removal of the restrictive intake muffler allows your turbo to run more efficiently and free up HP. This above test was done on our MINI Cooper S, with intake, FMIC and turbo back (no AccessPORT or ECU tune) already installed. The before and after show how the Hot Side boost tube makes a noticeable change in horsepower. After installation, we saw an increase in boost of about 1.5psi higher, which this carried across the entire RPM band. Except above 5700, where the ECU didn't like seeing this extra boost.

Does the accessport handle this? Definitely don't want my ECU to panic at higher boost levels.

 

. With the stage 1 tune when the car is cold I feel the kinda sputters around 3k rpm. But once the car is warm the car runs like a champ.

On another note I have a obx exhaust 2.5 pipping with a oem down pipe. ( but soon to be obx down pipe also. Would you think I can run the stage 2 tune.


Other mods already on. Cold air intake box, charge pipe ( with turbo muffler delete), and obx 2.5" exhaust