Drivetrain Theoretical idea for oil pressure gauge sender
Theoretical idea for oil pressure gauge sender
So I was just pondering about having an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and one of the dilemmas we Mini owners face is connecting both aftermarket and oem sensors.
One common solution is to use the adapter that goes from $50+ to hook both up in the oem location. While this works, I personally would not feel safe with that weight hanging off the block. To combat this, another solution is to remotely mount both senders somewhere else in the engine bay with a pressure hose. While this is a good solution, you are still looking at $40+ for the hose and fittings.
Since an aftermarket gauge will be present, the only real issue is turning off the stock 'idiot light' on the dash. Now tell me if my idea would work.
Hook up the aftermarket sender to the oem location. Then take the oem sender and rig up a 3/8 NPT cap to tighten over the tip with a bit of oil inside it. Theoretically, wouldn't this create pressure on the sender, increasing the tighter you make it.. potentially eliminating the dummy light?
Thoughts...?
One common solution is to use the adapter that goes from $50+ to hook both up in the oem location. While this works, I personally would not feel safe with that weight hanging off the block. To combat this, another solution is to remotely mount both senders somewhere else in the engine bay with a pressure hose. While this is a good solution, you are still looking at $40+ for the hose and fittings.
Since an aftermarket gauge will be present, the only real issue is turning off the stock 'idiot light' on the dash. Now tell me if my idea would work.
Hook up the aftermarket sender to the oem location. Then take the oem sender and rig up a 3/8 NPT cap to tighten over the tip with a bit of oil inside it. Theoretically, wouldn't this create pressure on the sender, increasing the tighter you make it.. potentially eliminating the dummy light?
Thoughts...?
I ended up with the same dilemma after using a Cravenspeed adapter and mounting the sender using a 90deg elbow only to find the weight of the sender too much for the elbow (it would weep oil at the joints. Still using the Cravenspeed adapter, I ended up fabricating a bracket and remotely mounted the sender next to the ABS unit about 12" away. I've run it that way for over a year now and no leaks.
I forget the details, but my dummy light is gone, and the stock sender is replaced with the gauge sender. I think they simply cut the wire and zip tied it off. For some reason I'm thinking that the stock sender only had one wire, and it grounds through the block, then there is oil or something and some voodoo. Electricity is sorcery to me. I had the gauge sender installed for me in combination with some other work.
I had the same concern about the combined weight of the sender and adapter and the resulting stress on the adapter fitting when I installed my Marshall gauges. Inquiries resulted in enough independent assurance on the strength of the machined steel Craven tapless adapter that I just went with it. No problems thus far. Probably okay for the street and occasional twisty. I might feel differently if I was tracking or doing auto-X on a regular basis.
There is no way the weight of the adapter would cause a problem, if it really is 3/8th NPT you could practically stand on it assuming that that the threads held.
In any event with the way NPT threads are setup the original idea probably would work.
In any event with the way NPT threads are setup the original idea probably would work.
The only problem I have had with using the pressure sender on the adapter is the pressure sendor itself not liking the vibration. I talked to AutoMeter and they said they had a few complaints from Mini owners that the sender stopped working and AutoMeter believes it is due to being extended out on the adapter. AutoMeter suggested remotely locating the oil presssure sender.
It's always best and usually recommended not to mount a pressure sender directly to the block. Remote lines are good. Braided SS brake line works well here with some good Earls fittings.
Good tip!
Good tip!
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Are my eyes deceiving me or have you gone and borrowed the plexiglass oil pan UCONN used on the 2010 sae car?
I could see where vibration from mounting to a weird shaped adapter could come into play, without a doubt.
I could see where vibration from mounting to a weird shaped adapter could come into play, without a doubt.
I broke a fitting with the weight of the sender at AMVIV and ... long story short for a $5 fitting had to tow home.
The solution was a fitting with the oem sender right at the stock position and the bell sender at the ABS location with a flex line.
This was yeas ago and not a problem since.
The solution was a fitting with the oem sender right at the stock position and the bell sender at the ABS location with a flex line.
This was yeas ago and not a problem since.
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