Hey Rick, we actually did this:
"The down & dirty:
A really good clutch
a 19 & a 2% pulleys
Alta diverter w/stock IC - you need these for packing ice, if you can get dry ice - even better
5 gallons of C16
380s
some stickies for the front wheels
last but not least, a dry 30 shot
all together =
A street fighter named "Desire"

The bad = it won't live too long
The good = it will be really quick"

should have added: OE head, OE exhaust, no tune

I hope you don't think I would ever suggest you or anyone ever use a setup like this - as I said, It won't live long......

The car with the setup was a part of a divorce settelment.

The clutch was the first to go. After that, there wasn't much reason to beat on the car. I'd bet the top ring lands were less than 100%, the EGT was around 1700f at full boost - That can't be good

On the + side there was a thread, 2, maybe 3 years back here that was all AIT. Dr. Phil & Partsman had quite the thread going. The set up above was to produce the most possible heat - AIT. I got some dry ice from the local S&S & made some ice blocks that fit the Alta ( a bakeing tray works well ) diverter to use on the OE IC. The above setup produced the desired effect. The ice worked better than expected. You could call this experiment my small contributation to Dr Phil & Partsman & a benny of the OE IC.

FYI - it's important that you know the OE "S" head may not flow well enough for E85. You'll be using a lot of fuel with not so good air - just a thought...

BTW how are things at Ft. Carson, I went there twice when I was stationed at Ft. Hood back in 1966. As I remember it, was in the middle of nothing close....

 

Well I guess that is one way to settle who gets the car. Even tho it wasnt the engine that went first.
1700 degrees is some hot exahust probably enough to make a header turn nice and red. Higher EGT's are common on cars that run lean even stock ones, but given the boost and the nitrous with the minimal amount of fuel you fed this thing its kind of surprising that the rings, pistons, and rods didnt give up all togeather. It just goes to show that Chrysler (er MINI) can still build one tough little motor.
The whole ice trick works on any intercooler, in the EVO I had I went from a 13.0 to a 12.8 after freesing my intercooler and manifold, it is also why on cold days our R53's feel like they have a little more pickup. Water also works on I/C's it can actually for a short time drop the temps below ambient.
I really dont think I will be running your setup tho as tempting as it sounds to NEED to replace all of those pices
The stock head is actually a pretty good pice on the intake side anyhow, Fireball Tim got into the 10s on a stock head. It takes alot more fuel than I am going to be using to feed his 600HP drag car.

About your question, Ft. Carson still SUCKS they just had another division move in and nothing on the post can support the extra 5000 soldiers. Colorado springs comes up to the gates now, but it is your typical army town nothing good unless you go to the side the post IS'NT on.

 

One never knows exactly how much heat it takes....... To make big power you make BIG heat.

1700 is right up there. You can see 1600 at lean burn easily under light load -

The stock "S" head flows OK for what it was intended. I run a stock valve Cosworth on my car that's had some massage therapy done to it over last 3 years & I don't think even on Fireball Tims car you could run a 10.

The stock head, gen 1 "S" has an inherent flat spot at around 3K - this is due to the port arrangement. There are some good heads to be had right here on this forum, not to mention the info available.

There's a lot of hp to be made with a good head. In the old days heads were the first thing we'd look at to make power. A camel back head off a power pack 283 on a 2 barrel 265 small block was a big improvement ( even with just a 2 barrel Rodchester ). All I'm saying - consider a head.....

It's good you're not tempted to run the, all out, down & dirty, do not collect $200 setup.

Colorado Springs was at least 10 miles away...... Woah, that's a change.

BYTW it's a D10 - if parked next to my house, it's almost as big & would NOT fit inside - it weighs more than the house & contents - on the blade arm it says Mini. Need a entire neighborhood removed????? How about Bank of America? Any thoughts??

 

Yeah Rick--Steves DEFINITELY right-on; up thar in them hills you GOTTA have air-------nice cool air & LOTS of it !! So -back to the meth! (ans your querie) 3 gals is gonna be app 24lbs , add the system--lets give it 16 . So here in Oregon (after several ph calls ) we've de-duced that this makes 40lbs (give or take) Now lets just say that you've achieved that 230whp you've mentioned-hitch up 230 thoroughbreds to one of them 40lb goats in Sand City and drag his a** around !! I DON'T think those "horse's" are gonna notice------IF they DO------better move out the way!! The O.E cooler IS alot better than most think ;speaking of "coolers" back to the 400V-2 if you guys DO need to boil some mash send me an a.p.o. cause THIS cooler WILL do the J.O.B. !! LOTTA intake (real air) not corn smoke! GOOD fuel (delivered by the GOODS) and a "proper digestive system accompanied by "proper" waste control & YOU BE BACK--------(in the world)----LUCK BRO

 

A head is deffinately in my future, But not at this time or on this motor, It simply isnt in my budget with all the suspension goodies that are showing up at my house on a weekly basis. Once I am done with the suspension and get the car to a decent level of power where I want it in the rev range, It will be time to start on the DEATH ROCKET MOTOR. I need to aquire a block, and crank from somewhere though.
It will be probably a year or two before I can start on that, unless you could let me borrow your dozer and point me in the direction of the nearest bank.

You guys would freak out if I told you I was going to run a stock size pulley, on a built bottom end bored .040 with 9.0:1 pistons and RMW's Jeasus head with the Newmann COOPER race cam.(yes the big lopey 288) Where you wondering why I called it the DEATH ROCKET MOTOR.

If I get the program I use to re-size pictures to work again I'll show you some pics of our armored D7s

 

Cracks me up to see someone bolting all kinds of "go fast" parts to an engine. Not a single hint of suspension upgrades.

 

post 55 talks about suspension parts arrivals weekley.

Breaks - it's easier to make a faster car but stopping it isn't.

 

The 12.9" Willwood kit front and rear shuld be geting to me in a few weeks Cross coilovers are the Next big one, Helix rear arm (all 4) need orderd, Texas speedwerks X brace is on the list, if it was rubber its polly replacement is in my garage, still decideing if I want the ALTA psrs and what whees, thinking 17X7.5 Konig feathers wraped in 215/40/17 Falken azenis RT615 rubber, plus some things I forgot to list.
But this is a drivetrain thread.

 

I really like Willwoods - best bang for the buck.

I used Alcons on my race car, not the best choice for a street car & a lot more expensive. For a street car the rotors, OE, heat up quickley enough so you can stop for the idiot that opens their door in front of you. There's a slight learning curve but quite enjoyable.

Just so you know, I believe the only thing done on the JCW head is opening the exhaust port. Without taking the valves out ( I have the stock head I took of my car to compare ) there's nothing else I can see. This is something you could do yourself - at the least port match to gasket size, intake & exhaust.

What were you thinking for exhaust, header, pipe size, cat, muffler, resonator......

 

Although it's not for power. I'd recommend an 19mm H-Sport rear sway if you don't have one already. No understeer for a little over $100.

Also, you should find out what these crazy mo fo's did to their Mini to get 300hp and 400hp from them... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhO2--cFTDY

 

With the sport suspension, that bar is perfect

 

I've built a custom pipe, I moved my batery so I cut out the box and ran a 2.5" from the front to just past the rear sub frame using the stock exahust flange to bolt to the OE manifold(after using a die grinder for an hour or so to make the I/D of the flange match the pipe, on the other end is a universal Borla turbo muffler with an exahust tip from a '09 Chevy Duramax cut to the right length(the tip is about 4.5" at the exit), after that I heat wraped the entire system minus the manifold(planed on replacing it from the start)and called it good It works awsome, sounds great(a little loud), and If you follow me at night you can see my cat glowing at the end of the hole. It gets really bright when I git-on-it, I've been told it looks like a brake light.
For the header I'm gona run RMWs after I wrap it up with the hot-glass.

I would port my own head Ihave now, but I dont want to take the motor apart(YET), I did the head work on my 1.3 Sami motor and think I got more power from that than the 11.0:1 pistons

 

I have the Hotchkiss Comp bar set front and rear hollow bars(27mmF 25mmR)
they are lighter than stock and biger for the canyons
Also M7 front STB
still deciding on end links

 

You have under car lighting without lighting. I'm not too sure you really want the cat that hot....

The rest of the system sounds competent. Is it really loud or liveable just loud? Too loud gets old quick.

Post some pics of this beast....

 

It got a little anoying on my trip to Nashville TN in august, but I dont have any rear interior or sound deadening material left in the car unless there is some hiding from me on the roof. I like Lotus's phelosiphy of "Give a car lots of horsepower and its fast in a strait line, But give a car lightness and its faster all the time."
Nope no under car lights they are just for looks, Cat's normally have a light off of around 500-800 degrees and it is normal for the internals of one to get over 1500 on a cold day. That kind of heat will make rocks glow

I dont have any pics on me and if I did I think my Office 2007 just ate my name But I will try to get some up

 

+1 for Lotus

 

Hey Rick, your new chalange will be motor mounts after installing the "Death Rocket" along with some axels ( they say the axels will work with over 300 hp - so you might be OK with the OE ) - You'll want the engine real tight without transmitting a whole bunch of unwanted cabin noise & vibration - you could make a few bucks on something that can do this - the urethane works well but......

The last drag car I had anything to do with would run low 8's - it was like a ride on a wooden roller coaster inside a food processor - Don't get me wrong It was great, but there's a better way. Before I'm 70 I want to build something, a door car, that can run 7s......

 

Steve : Its now about 1:40 and I've finally recovered from "the roller coaster" !! You're killin me---(its NICE to laugh in 2010) Whadaya wanna build ?? 7s ARE really something that isn't out of the question nowadays and I really believe a guy CAN do it ALOT cheaper than the NHRA "boyz". Heck you can build MONSTERS now with all the electronics makin the REAL power available that they're capable of & contain !! I believe the real issue is gettin it to hook up and stay on the ground in a straight line !! Rick HAS pretty much GOT the right "attitude" cause that IS what it takes (jus don' NO bout that corn?) You CAN build some true MONSTER 4 cyl cars and if you're NOT "governed" by some beurocratic B.S it ain't that hard !! Are we losin "track" here?? (thread) Am I ?? There are a couple "other" brands out there 20 years or so old that you can get just KILLER stuff for-----I know what you mean & I'd love to do the same before "their parts" or MINE aren't available anymore !! These little mfgs ARE having a tragic existence and dropping like flies. Its a shame 2010---wow---but IF you jump on it----------NOWS the time !!

 

Mr Fishead, I'm going to follow Rick's thread & not get too much off his project. Jim Hall built a world beater in a small garage with ideas that nobody else thought of......

There's lots of power available & it's all very cool stuff but I'll go with what I know, getting into the 7s is not easy. It will run alcohol, maybe E85 & a lot of spray. It will also be a blower car. In 1963, I saved up to buy a Judson SC for my 1960 Austin Healey Sprite - it went from 43hp to a whopping 58hp - I'm an old school, hammer & saw, blower guy.

Fact: The P38 Lightning had 2 supercharged engines so they could fly at higher altitude than the *** 0.

Yes, small business is hurting. I have first hand knowledge, the 2008 fiasco cost us dearly. The mom & pop business is dieing quickly as is the middle class & the young people that would love to have their own small business can't afford to do it. In the end our socity looses. It's important that you young whiper-snappers keep focus & keep the faith.

 

Not sure why, but I subscribed to this post when I first saw it. Now I'm sure glad I did. Hey Rick, from the interest (attention) you've generated here, I say your project deserves a web page with some write ups, pictures and videos What do you say?

 

G'day Rick,
Don't post on NAM much anymore but here is my 2 cents

The E85 is a good idea and you should get some great hp out of it, however as Steve said you going to need big injectors to get the most out of it.

Piggybacks have a bad rep here on NAM and while not as good as a direct ECU tune you can get them to work well

I run a Haltech interceptor with dual maps one for meth and one no meth.
I got a Dimsport tune first to my ECU then the piggyback tune via the Haltech over the top. This gives me the bonus of switching maps on the fly if need be.

Maybe something similar may work for you

Good luck with your build and don't listen to the Haters, it is good to see some people still think outside the box and don't go along with the rest of the sheep

Sometimes it is good to be different

 

Hey D-MAN, Haltech has some great products. I worked with some of their first stand alones. They were in Texas then. When I hear anything about Haltech it catches my interest - glad to hear they are still doing what they do & they do it very well.

Their piggy, here, is a whole bunch of $$$. Their software is some of the best, user friendly available. Your setup here would be close to 2k, or more, when all is said & done. Something like what you have would work for anyone, possibly the Pope... even. All of the Haltech stand alones that I installed, when tuned, were stone reliable.

As for posting here, or for that matter anywhere, there's way too much speculation about everything. Sombody always knows that you mispelled your name, I still believe I know how to spell my name........ I think.

As for haters, sometimes people don't see the whole picture. When someone says they want to build a hot rod based on E85, using an FI car, turbo or blower, it should be of interest - the only down side is E85 avability

 

You really spin me out, your on some serious uppers will that paragraph

 

Finally some parts worth putting on I have the Wilwood kit and love it, for it's price its a fantastic kit. Saved me a few times as well. The Cross are great so to you there. The only thing is the front Sway bar Brace you are putting in. It was the same one I put in but I took it out cause the car kept skipping as it was too stiff on the front. Set the camber right on the front and let it roll onto the front tires with the Standard sway bar. If you must do the rear sway set it to it's softest setting as this goes for the same at the rear. I left my rear in at the back and put it on the softest setting and the car kicks **** in the corners Hope that is better advice for you from me!!

 

Sorry Mate: Eric Bana IS my hero and I just got carried away imagining he may see that post-----You guys ROCK when it come to the builds and I totally have respect where its due------car guys is car guys------and I'm on the "natch" / trully & think Ricks lovin it along w / a couple others. Been a FUN thread & really has a life of its own! The E-85 is just something that for the west coast is like HUH?? In Oregon , as of the first of the year we CAN buy REAL pump gas right outta the pump----91 being virtually everywhere;(NO ETHANOL) prior to that it was available but only hand carry--now--WOW & 93 IS next so the corn to "us " is like why ?? Hope this clarifies a "bit of the banter" !!