Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain So how much power do you think it will all be worth?

Old Mar 26, 2010 | 11:44 AM
  #26  
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Just curious, but wouldn't water/meth injection still help an E85 blown engine since the idea of water/meth injection is to cool the intake air temps?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 12:08 PM
  #27  
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Hey Rick, blower motors love alcohol. But, listen to Longboard & Dr.Phil, both these guys are telling you good well founded info.
E85 will give you good numbers all by itself.
A 15 or 16 pulley is enough.
I don't think anyone has had any luck with a larger TB, given your altitude & E85, IMHO = not needed.
You'll need injectors for E85 - haven't seen the Unichip software but RMW & Mynes can scale to match your needs.
A head is really what you want. A matching header would be the iceing on the cake.
Spend your mone wisely & best of, what ever you do....
 
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 12:32 PM
  #28  
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A few quick questions.... you want a car that can be used as a daily driver? Or a garage queen to bring to the Dino and weekends only? Do you have 93/94 octane where you are going to be for pump gas? I know when I was based in Denver, 91 octane was the best I could get...but since we have forced induction the 93+ will be a big help when you do have to run e-10, rather than e-85.
I'm not sure anybody has ever run 550 injectors with the unichip...one important thing to know....it is my understanding that as a piggyback, it does not really run new maps, but rather it adds extra signals to the stock harness to add more fuel and adjust the timeing....when it was our only option it was ok.....but there are simply better options now, with flash tools that enable you to switch maps is a minute oe two....you will be breaking new ground trying to use the unichip like you want too....and I'm not sure it is possible, even with the custom stuff your friend has. If you have months to spend getting it running, and don't mind granading a motor have at it...but you can do what you want with a 300$ flash tool, and a couple hours of Dino time....even can do it remotely with the tuner...one hour for pump gas, one hour for e-85....and have them all saved on the tool in the glove box for x/c drives!!
A few folks run 2 maps...one with meth/water injection, one without!! Same idea!!
If you are in the AirForce...there might be an oldtimer or two that might be able to fill you in on the advantages of water/meth injection...it was used on radial engines for many years, and some fighters....some turbo props/jets of certain vintages also make use of water/meth injection....I used to fly sa-226/227's (Fairchild-Swearigin Merlin IV/Mettro III((some even had JATO))that had it, as do some older USAF tankers....
Whatever you decide, good luck, have fun planning your build!!
PS watch your butt, and thanks for the hard work!
 
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 01:24 PM
  #29  
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Jet Assisted Take Off - JATO is a term you don't hear too much any more.

$300 for the tool & $300+ for the tune is a pretty good deal = less expensive than a Unichip - software $600 unichip & $300 software.

The Unichip has 1 advantage - you can unplug it & go back to stock. This is good for a DD that you service at the dealer. For a true, full bore hot rod, it's pretty limited.

E85 is a great fuel for a blower car but you will, most likely need 550s or bigger if you're going to make big numbers. 1 thing to think about is how close the top ring is to the top of the piston with OE.

How common is E85 where you are? There is 1 here in town, the next 1 is 62 miles away.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 01:54 PM
  #30  
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Since I travel for a living...I can say that e-85, while offered in a few stations in the "corn belt" is still pretty rare...sure I lived in Missouri, and there was one station in Joplin that sold it, but more often than not, the pump is labeled out of order, or the nozelels have plastic bags tied around them....since the cost of grain is so high...producing ethonol is getting $$, and it seems to be a complete flop as an alternate fuel....
If you have a good local scource, and a way to switch maps, go for it!! Just remember, out little gas tanks will offer even less range with e-85....doing the math, it usually costs more permile than regular fuel...but tuff to beat the octane!!!
The flash tools can store multiple maps...you can even retain the stock map, on the tool, or on a laptop!! One thing..guys do run e-85...but many compotents of the mini fuel system are not tested longterm for E-85 use.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 05:58 PM
  #31  
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The big issue here is the altitude. At 6000 feet, on a good day, you can write off 18% horsepower, but generally the number is higher. Here's a link for altitude adjusted horsepower (http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_hp_dp.htm). So a nice, sea level built 250 hp, is only a strong 200 hp at 6000 ft. Kinda hurts. I know, because I live at this altitude too. However, during the winter, when it is 10 degrees out, you are like, I wish it was this cold always. Anyway, altitude is going to be your greatest hurtle. Turbo's are probably better in this regard. Turbo lag is worse though. Good luck.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 07:22 PM
  #32  
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If you're going to spend $900 to buy a new IC...(hopefully you're buying it used instead...)

feel free to just put $900 in my PayPal account...as I'll make great use of it, and you'll see about the same return on your end either way. Intercoolers for the R53 have had EXTENSIVE testing done by members on here. Spend some time poking around and you'll see you're wasting your money that can be spent elsewhere. If you must change the IC...get one from a GP.

And please...listen to Dr. Phil & Longboard...they really do know what they're talking about.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 08:36 PM
  #33  
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Smart guy with good advice .

LB


Originally Posted by stevecars60
Jet Assisted Take Off - JATO is a term you don't hear too much any more.

$300 for the tool & $300+ for the tune is a pretty good deal = less expensive than a Unichip - software $600 unichip & $300 software.

The Unichip has 1 advantage - you can unplug it & go back to stock. This is good for a DD that you service at the dealer. For a true, full bore hot rod, it's pretty limited.

E85 is a great fuel for a blower car but you will, most likely need 550s or bigger if you're going to make big numbers. 1 thing to think about is how close the top ring is to the top of the piston with OE.

How common is E85 where you are? There is 1 here in town, the next 1 is 62 miles away.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 12:29 AM
  #34  
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Finaly at least a little non close-minded advice. E85 stations are pretty comon in my area I have 3 within 5 miles, but on the weekends I need to go play Army at Ft. Carson I have only found one in Colorado Springs.(That really makes it a pain when I drive my Samurai down there, Ive been using E-gas since I rebuilt the engine) The highest octaine gasolene in CO is 91 there is one station within 20 miles of my house that sells 100 but it is $6.00 a gallon 91 is normally around $3.25 E85 I've never seen it over $2.30 So my milage will go way down (I barely see 10mpg in my 1.3liter Suzuki it also has 35" tires tho) I only take 1 long trip per year so I am OK with the losses. And 550s that are on the list shuld be plenty to supply enough fuel.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 04:29 AM
  #35  
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Without being able to scale those injectors you may as well be throwing money down the shoot as well. Don't care what you say about the Unicrap you just can't scale them, trust me I know as I had one. I don't know why you aren't listening to the people that know these cars, you really are throwing your money away with most of the parts on your list.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 05:38 AM
  #36  
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Well It is MY MONEY, MY CAR, and if it dosent work I can try something else.

PLEASE if you are going to reply to this post and want to talk S**T about other peoples ideas save your fingers the trouble and move on!!!!
 
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 06:08 AM
  #37  
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corn fed

Rick : I dig it that it's a bit "difficult" to be objective when being shot at (-I'm a Lifetime VVA mbr / 100% combat disabled vet) so THANK YOU for your "service"---but----once again-- LISTEN TO THESE GUYS--It IS your car and your $$-- but-- YOU ASKED------so LISTEN !! I know I am & I DIDN'T ask as are a # of others (THANKS!!) How about goin w / DR PHIL & THEN pop the corn ? You 'll save some ($$ & time) goin south to get north and just "may " be quite pleased. He' got enough proven--unworkable stuff just layin around that it would be of service to both of you for him to just clean his shop--you pay the handling / shipping and both benefit !? I've got an alta 400-v2 i.c. that I'll GIVE you--just pay for the shpg etc ---I'd NEVER sell it cause it DOESN'T work which would fit just perfectly w /the rest of what you've got goin-- that itself was like $550 on sale! Probably some plasma boosters out there and discarded catch cans too-- etc etc-----think on it. None of this stuff worked on petrol so maybe corn IS the answer-I'm willing to try !! Anybody else ??
 
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 06:43 AM
  #38  
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One tip...the 550's are avalable in a 4 hole, and 6 hole configuratin...there is a good q&a over at a different board..Minitourque...mostly euro centric so it does not really compete here...check it out!! People are very happy when they are installed!
As for beaing "closed minded", heck, we are just stubborn, but IMO it is you money, have fun!! I only like to say I won't work, or there is a better way to save you grief later on...but anything is possible (with enough money and time)!!
Since it sounds like you are likely sticking to a 17% reduction..tuneing to run pump gas at 91 octane should be ok....Matt, Dr Obnoxious has a great IC comparison, and some good reading under free stuff at his site...fesauto I think...a good read!! It is interesting to note, time will already be retarted under most conditions with less than 93 octane fuel when it warm at lower altitudes.
If you look around there are a few mini's on e-85 (after time in the sandbox, it would be tempting to me too!!) and they seem to perform well...Mike Mynes has done a few...check a few boards, he is still around....tends to post Dino charts showing the options/changes..might be good to take a look to help with your planning!!
 
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 08:17 AM
  #39  
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Thanks for the info.
I was just about to give up on this thread when I got an Email about it off of the site, and it looks like some people are enjoying reading it so bring on the B.S.
If Felix Wankel would have given up when people told him the rotary engine would never run, Mazda wouldnt still be racing them today. I know that my ideas can work, even if the parts are sub par to old timers standards. Alot of freshley fabricated ideas can make theese parts perform the way they were intended to. I might be a new guy to this site but this F.N.G.(if you where ever military you know what this means)has a lot of first hand knowledge and a lot more second hand for when the #1 gets tired. So if you have any criticisms bring them on you may prove me wrong. I might even teach you stubborn old car folk some new tricks.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 12:51 PM
  #40  
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Hey Rick, I hear you, you need to break a few eggs to make an omelet. I'v broken enough pieces parts for both of us, but, we did win a ton of races....

We're just trying to save you some money & sweat.

The down & dirty:
A really good clutch
a 19 & a 2% pulleys
Alta diverter w/stock IC - you need these for packing ice, if you can get dry ice - even better
5 gallons of C16
380s
some stickies for the front wheels
last but not least, a dry 30 shot
all together =
A street fighter named "Desire"

The bad = it won't live too long
The good = it will be really quick

What ever you do, have some fun with it......
 
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 03:55 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by DICKS GARAGE R53
Well It is MY MONEY, MY CAR, and if it dosent work I can try something else.

PLEASE if you are going to reply to this post and want to talk S**T about other peoples ideas save your fingers the trouble and move on!!!!

Put it all on then, it is YOUR money. Just have a few grand extra for when you rip it all off and go a different route or for when you have to re build All we are trying to do is save you money, I myself have gone through $25000 on this car when it could have been tops $10000 if I had of listened first
 
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 04:08 PM
  #42  
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Wow. It's rare that I see a thread where good advise is given and rejected. More often it's bad advise given and accepted. This whacky internet.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 08:10 PM
  #43  
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Steve, what exactly where you thinking with that much boost pressure plus nitrous with only 380cc injectors. That might top my idea for sending my motor to the piston gods It is simple the more psi the more fuel you need at 21% reduction the 380 where maxed,but then you added the giggle gas with no additional fuel. You did what you could with the race gas tried to keep the IAT down using ice ,but in the end you went lean and your motor gave up. Your rings/valve seats probably where the first out the door.

If you dont mind me asking what was your boost pressure/ what was your altitude at the time. Oh ya I love that pic of the D9 I would be opperating one today if it would stop raining.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 08:43 PM
  #44  
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Were you not given the world's best training, equipment, and personnel to get the job done overseas?

Being a retired military man...I never put subpar parts on my car...I want the best parts, best advice, save money, and I get it free on NAM.

P.S. Thank you for serving.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 12:25 AM
  #45  
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Army equipment sucks, the maintenance is horible, and I got a whole 4 days of training when I came back into the army in 2007
I believe that theese sub par parts can do what they where designed for, it might take a little thinking, fabrication, time, and testing but its not like I am shooting for 400HP here. If I can squeese 230-240HP out of theese parts with my own ideas and tuning I will be happy with it, and moding your car shuld only need to make one person happy and that is YOURSELF.
If it all blows up so be it I can always start over, and people will know what not to do
 
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 03:19 AM
  #46  
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Ya know Rick----I beginnin to really like you & I KNOW a BUNCH of other guys do too; maybe for different reasons but LIKE YA anyway !! I guess in my case is that my ptsd puts me on "almost" the same time frame as you and that I trully admire your "doggedness"-----no matter how WRONG it is ! You're gettin " it"----not sure IF you realize it or not BUT you ARE !! Read YOUR last sentence--- to yourself----------it's just exactly what ALL of us are tryin to keep you from doin !! You've got it man !! You're right on the edge-----we've already "cleared that path"--take it there"!! Did you call me an antique ?? HEH HEH ---I was turnin YOUR times in '62 w/ a 216 chevy 6 and made it into the high 13s w /a "jimmy" gasser w /125 deg track temps & 90 deg ambient. I've still got that allta I.C if ya wannit don't think the Good Dr. is gonna get involved but I'd bet you the shpg that he's followin this. It'd be COOL if he shows!! (hint hint) Are you N.G or what ?? & Engnrs ARE COOL---spcly in that cat box (d-9) You know you may have missed the big news blurb about the amer indians findin 10 zillion barrels of OIL here !!---so make some french fries w /that corn oil dontcha know & MOTOR ON (w / your head down!)
 
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 03:42 AM
  #47  
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Jesus man, I need a thesaurus to understand what you write sometimes!! Lots of ----- and " Very expressionful What you just wrote just blew my mind
 
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 04:22 AM
  #48  
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Thanks Fish I'm just stubborn in my own way and have a totaly bassacward way of doing things. The Alta I/C might not be tall enough for the fan ducting system I have planed to keep the air moving through the core al all times. And I like the little more air volume you can cram into the M7(it is around a 700cc differance I think, I would need measurements from M7 to be Exact) The top 3 rows on the right side of their I/C see the most cooling, because those top rows are Quite a ways off the top of the motor and directly in-line with incoming air.(only if the car stays moving) But if I can fabricate a schroud behind the I/C and bring it into 2, 3" pipes with some high velocity fans and duct those into the cowl the core will see a nice constant 30mph wind across the whole thing at idle siting in the parking lot.
Oh ya I was Infantry for 3 years in the 101st AIRBORNE DIVISION, got out for 2 1/2 years, and came back as a Reserve ENGENEER in 2007.
If you could ship that ALTA to Iraq we are looking for a heat exchanger for our still.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 04:41 AM
  #49  
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intclr

Rick: You ARE RIGHT ON !! The m7 is FAR superior to the un-workable 400v-2 (gotta be careful /names) and if you guys want somethin better than goat milk & tea better stick w/ peters unit !! IF (& only IF) you're gonna go that dfic-PLEASE check the figs vs the oem !! Then spend the $$ on a meth set up to "compliment" the I.C. & S.C. I CAN see the light & it ain't the train !! WOW !! And a "dijerydoo to you too" Mr. Scolburn "79" WAS some GOOD WINE & ALOT of it !! That thesaurus---is it "native" heh heh-----luv it !!
 
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 05:07 AM
  #50  
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A meth kit might be used by me when I get a spare block laying around to stuff with a lot more bad ideas, but for now Im going to stick with basics and making the car as light as possible.
How much does a 3 gollon jug of washer fluid weigh anyhow
 
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