So my pedals still goes right to the floor and doesn't come back up. Brand new slave, no leaks. I pumped up my power bleeder to 8psi and left it for about 15 minutes and the pressure stayed the same. I probably bleed the system about 10 times atleast. I used the system where you tape up the cylinder and bleed it then put it on and blocked it up with a piece of wood to compress the slave to bleed it some more. I even tried the pump pump hold method of bleeding.

So hopefully someone has some ideas for me or maybe I've done something slightly wrong with the bleeding process or something.

FYI new CM fx300 clutch, new surface plate on flywheel, new throwout bearing, new guide tube, new nylon bushings on clutch fork and new bevel lever cuz the bushing was a little worn. (other work was done to the vehicle as well but nothing transmission related).

 

Make sure you have the piston in the slave fully pushed back into the cylinder. If it's out a little it won't bleed correctly.

 

When I wedged the block of wood in I tapped it in pretty good with a rubber hammer

 

Sorry, unrelated question but pertaining to your clutch installation: did you grease the throw out bushing for installation?

 

Are you still seeing air coming out of the bleed nipple through your tube into your catch bottle? If the slave pushrod is not fully in and centered while bleeding can be a bugger(lots of reports on NAM about that), so make sure the pushrod is in fully and squarely. After a non bubbled bleed sequence mount the slave, make sure your brake fluid is topped up, and slowly press the clutch pedal in and out 10 times as per the Bentley manual. Good luck!

Jeremy

 

I'll bleed it and get solid fluid....make sure its topped off and still no pedal, when I go to bleed again I get air at first then solid fluid everytime.

 

Sounds like air trapped in the master cylinder. Guys here have gravity bled the system overnight with success.

Jeremy

 

You need to compress the slave cylinder. I used a GM 2 arm steering puller with long 10mm bolts and nuts. Hook up the brake line and slowly pump the pedal.

If you have a pressure bleeder, it makes the process much easier. Do not go over 14psi if you pressurize it. Then open the bleeder and drain until all air is out of the system.

DO NOT press the clutch pedal with the uncompressed slave not mounted to the tranny. You will blow the seals in it and have a puddle of brake fluid on the floor (ask me how I know)

 

rsvp how do you know? lol

I got it done a couple days ago and I've been slowly puttin some miles on it =) Can't wait to try out all the new goodies!

 

Just had this issue, here is my fix. I tried a pressure bleeder, was not successful.

remove the two bolts on the slave cyl

Pull the slave.

Using a caulking gun handle (one with a slot at tip end), slip it over the cylinder, pull the trigger until the push rod is pushed all the way in,,, very easy and cheap.

Get a helper to slowly pump the clutch pedal.

The big problem is that the bleed point is not on the cylinder, it is on the supply line before the cylinder.

Gently pull the cylinder down to get the bleed point as high above the cylinder as possible, this is to let the air rise to the bleed valve. Open the bleed valve about 1/2 turn, put you finger over the tip of the bleed valve and have your helper pump the clutch pedal several times.

When the push, fluid squirts out and down your forearm and soaks your shirt (a badge of honor, haha) otherwise if you are a neat freaque and use clear tubing, you need to open and close the bleed screw as the pedal is pumped. Keep doing this for five or six strokes. On the last stroke, tell your helper to push it down slowly, and while the pedal is going down slowly, you close the bleed valve.

Wipe up the mess, release the caulk gun, reinstall the cylinder and it should now work well. Next time I will install one of those check valve bleed screws if I can determine what the thread size is (any one know), the check valve bleed screw people tell me they don't know the size for the clutch.

I'm sure there are other great ways, this just worked for me.

YD

 

A caulking gun, way to Macgyver it.

 

I had great success with using a c clamp to compress the slave cylinder, and then using a vaccum bleeder, not a pressure bleeder to bleed the system. remember to close the bleeder valve with the vacuum bleeder attached, then give it a few more pumps and disconnect the hose at the bleeder. this will suck the fluid in the bleeder lines into the storage tank and make as little mess as possible .
good luck! ( i just did this when one of my clutch line quick disconnects popped off and the entire line drained (just air) successfully re-bled the lines in ~15 min with the vacuum bleeder after trying unsuccessfully for 2 hours with gravity bleeding and pressure bleeding.

 

I had the same issue with my new slave cyl. I ended up bleeding it in reverse and saw the big air bubbles come out of the master cyl. I used a pump Like This... and it worked perfectly!

I compressed my slave cyl all the way, pumped the system in reverse, slowly pushed the pedal down and held a little pressure on the pedal, then let the pedal rise by pumping more fluid in through the bleeder valve and it slowly pushed the pedal up every pump of the oil can, then when it got to the top, I tightened the bleeder and tested pedal pressure, before removing the clamp from the slave cyl, and it was very stiff. I then released the slave cyl from the clamp very slowly, and it worked great!

Good luck!

 

Try the procedure outlined in this post first:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...tructions.html

I had lots of air in my clutch master cylinder (after I used my power bleeder to bleed the brakes and clutch slave cylinder) and I did exactly what this post said to do and it worked like a champ. No power bleeder, no vacuum pump, no hand pump, etc.