Drivetrain Riss Racing Exhaust
Riss Racing Exhaust
Has anyone received their exhaust and had it installed? I have the exhaust but can't do anything because i am waiting for the coated catted down pipe. I don't want this to get into the drama of what is going on with the company; just focus on the exhaust and feed back if anyone has had it installed. Thank You
Does that mean you never had it installed? I originally wanted the Milltek for my R56 but jumped on Riss' group buy to save a buck. I don't want to put in the exhaust just to put on a down pipe later...i won't be doing it myself so thats $$$
immini: thats funny, but its just a name....or is it?!?!
immini: thats funny, but its just a name....or is it?!?!
Does that mean you never had it installed? I originally wanted the Milltek for my R56 but jumped on Riss' group buy to save a buck. I don't want to put in the exhaust just to put on a down pipe later...i won't be doing it myself so thats $$$
immini: thats funny, but its just a name....or is it?!?!
immini: thats funny, but its just a name....or is it?!?!
Finally my local MINI doctor Chad @ Detroit Tuned (www.detroittuned.com) recommended that I check out the DDM Works exhaust. Sure it was $849, but he swore that it would fit correctly and sound awesome. After I picked up the exhaust, installed it in my garage that night, and fired it up, it was a world of difference. The best part is that even when I'm doing wide open throttle runs, with a catless downpipe, there is barely any drone. It sounds very aggressive, but I can actually control the noise compared to not having any control at all.
So for future reference, listen to the folks at Detroit Tuned, Way Motor Works, Texas Speed Werks...etc. They've been doing this a lot longer than most of us have owned our MINIs.
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I have the "modified" downpipe ... ha ha ha... and yes you're going to throw a code with whatever downpipe you buy. It's almost always and only the P0240 code. The only high flow downpipe that won't throw a code is made by Exhaust Depot. The man that owns the place, Hector, is a great guy that I and many others have done business with. www.exhaustdepot.net
When it comes on it's not the end of the world. You can still drive your car and it'll perform beautifully. In my experience, the performance difference between having the light on and off is negligible. If you want to get into the nitty gritty details, you can start reading about open loop/closed loop systems for the O2 sensors. It's a good read.
The only real problem is if your car throws another code and you don't have a OBDII reader like the ScanGuage to read it, you'll never know there's another pending problem. A lot of us here have these type of readers permanently mounted in our cars to check vehicle diagnostics and OBDII codes very quickly.
The bigger problem with running a very uh... "modified" downpipe is that you can throw the P115D code. This is an error in the air/fuel metering and the root cause is the O2 sensors are not seeing a large enough difference in signals between the pre-cat and post-cat O2 sensors. The result is that your car will go into limp mode and make a measly 3psi of boost. You can clear this code and it usually goes away after shoo'ing it away couple of times with a "clear check engine light" command from your OBDII reader.
If there could be only one product that could be reliable and deliverable from Riss Racing, it should be that O2 sensor sim. They were onto big things...
When it comes on it's not the end of the world. You can still drive your car and it'll perform beautifully. In my experience, the performance difference between having the light on and off is negligible. If you want to get into the nitty gritty details, you can start reading about open loop/closed loop systems for the O2 sensors. It's a good read.
The only real problem is if your car throws another code and you don't have a OBDII reader like the ScanGuage to read it, you'll never know there's another pending problem. A lot of us here have these type of readers permanently mounted in our cars to check vehicle diagnostics and OBDII codes very quickly.
The bigger problem with running a very uh... "modified" downpipe is that you can throw the P115D code. This is an error in the air/fuel metering and the root cause is the O2 sensors are not seeing a large enough difference in signals between the pre-cat and post-cat O2 sensors. The result is that your car will go into limp mode and make a measly 3psi of boost. You can clear this code and it usually goes away after shoo'ing it away couple of times with a "clear check engine light" command from your OBDII reader.
If there could be only one product that could be reliable and deliverable from Riss Racing, it should be that O2 sensor sim. They were onto big things...
I was going to get a catted DP. I heard the gains from having catless are not significant enough unless you are looking for time differences in the tenths of a second. Also when it comes to passing an emissions test (NYC) i wanted less of a head ache to deal with. Now it seems like i got a lot more to look into. With a catted DP that throws a code, all of the info countryboyshane wrote would still apply?
A catted downpipe is NOT LIKELY to throw the P115D code. You may still get the P0240 code. You're better off doing your emissions test with your stock downpipe and installing the other one after so you're not taking any huge chances.
I was going to get a catted DP. I heard the gains from having catless are not significant enough unless you are looking for time differences in the tenths of a second. Also when it comes to passing an emissions test (NYC) i wanted less of a head ache to deal with. Now it seems like i got a lot more to look into. With a catted DP that throws a code, all of the info countryboyshane wrote would still apply?
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