Drivetrain No Oil Change for a Year?!?
No Oil Change for a Year?!?
I just got my MCS new last week. It's got 220 miles on it (damn, I love driving it 
). Anyway, my MA told me the first oil change isn't until a full year, which I find crazy. Unless they break the engines in at the factory, do they really want the metal filings from the first few hundred miles of break-in to circulate in the engine oil for a whole year? I'm planning on changing it myself at 1000 miles, just to be safe.
Also, it looks like the car has synthetic oil in it from the factory. I've always been under the impression that you shouldn't put synthetic oil in an engine for a few thousand miles, until the rings seat and the engine is broken in. Can anyone edumacate me?
). Anyway, my MA told me the first oil change isn't until a full year, which I find crazy. Unless they break the engines in at the factory, do they really want the metal filings from the first few hundred miles of break-in to circulate in the engine oil for a whole year? I'm planning on changing it myself at 1000 miles, just to be safe.Also, it looks like the car has synthetic oil in it from the factory. I've always been under the impression that you shouldn't put synthetic oil in an engine for a few thousand miles, until the rings seat and the engine is broken in. Can anyone edumacate me?
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,578
Likes: 5
From: Paradise
Don't know whether MINI runs the engines to seat the rings.
It seems that MINIs require synthetic oil because if high temps. I suspect that putting dino oil in it could void the warranty.
I changed the oil in my MCS at around 1,500 miles. Many others here have as well. I had my second oil changed about 6,000 miles later and had the oil analyzed. Seems like 8,000 miles would be a reasonable interval for my driving. Someone else posted results of a first oil change after 12,500 miles, IIRC (might have been 15,000 miles). The comments in his report said that the metal content had reached levels where the oil was actually abrasive.
MINI is providing free oil changes for the 3 year/30,000 mile maintenance period. I suspect the yearly (or odometer countdown) oil change interval is highly influenced by the marketing and accounting departments, and not strictly an engineering decision.
Use an oil that meets BMW LL-01 or ACEA A3 specs. Castrol 0W-30 European Formula looks like it might be a good choice. MINI and BMW have a 5W-30 oil with their respective brands on it. It is supposedly a formula Castrol makes specifically from them. Same oil for both brands. BMW version is sometimes more expensive. In my area, the MINI brand is the least expensive LL-01 oil available.
OEM filters are available for $10-$15. There is a good DIY oil change thread with photos and hints in the 2nd Gen. Coupe forum.
It seems that MINIs require synthetic oil because if high temps. I suspect that putting dino oil in it could void the warranty.
I changed the oil in my MCS at around 1,500 miles. Many others here have as well. I had my second oil changed about 6,000 miles later and had the oil analyzed. Seems like 8,000 miles would be a reasonable interval for my driving. Someone else posted results of a first oil change after 12,500 miles, IIRC (might have been 15,000 miles). The comments in his report said that the metal content had reached levels where the oil was actually abrasive.
MINI is providing free oil changes for the 3 year/30,000 mile maintenance period. I suspect the yearly (or odometer countdown) oil change interval is highly influenced by the marketing and accounting departments, and not strictly an engineering decision.
Use an oil that meets BMW LL-01 or ACEA A3 specs. Castrol 0W-30 European Formula looks like it might be a good choice. MINI and BMW have a 5W-30 oil with their respective brands on it. It is supposedly a formula Castrol makes specifically from them. Same oil for both brands. BMW version is sometimes more expensive. In my area, the MINI brand is the least expensive LL-01 oil available.
OEM filters are available for $10-$15. There is a good DIY oil change thread with photos and hints in the 2nd Gen. Coupe forum.
Last edited by Robin Casady; Nov 30, 2009 at 12:15 AM.
I just got my MCS new last week. It's got 220 miles on it (damn, I love driving it ). Anyway, my MA told me the first oil change isn't until a full year, which I find crazy. Unless they break the engines in at the factory, do they really want the metal filings from the first few hundred miles of break-in to circulate in the engine oil for a whole year? I'm planning on changing it myself at 1000 miles, just to be safe.
Also, it looks like the car has synthetic oil in it from the factory. I've always been under the impression that you shouldn't put synthetic oil in an engine for a few thousand miles, until the rings seat and the engine is broken in. Can anyone edumacate me?
). Anyway, my MA told me the first oil change isn't until a full year, which I find crazy. Unless they break the engines in at the factory, do they really want the metal filings from the first few hundred miles of break-in to circulate in the engine oil for a whole year? I'm planning on changing it myself at 1000 miles, just to be safe.Also, it looks like the car has synthetic oil in it from the factory. I've always been under the impression that you shouldn't put synthetic oil in an engine for a few thousand miles, until the rings seat and the engine is broken in. Can anyone edumacate me?
Only suggestion I have is change your oil at 1500 or so and then every 6000-8000 miles with a MINI approved oil so as not to void your warranty.
As for not using synthetic oil in new engines there are arguments for both sides and until someone actually does a side by side large scale comparison under very controlled conditions it is a toss up.
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Its all about marketing and profit margins. Free maintenance means yearly oil changes and no free maintenance means you pay for oil changes every three months/3000 miles.
I've been doing changes every 6 months (roughly 6-8K miles) using Amsoil synthetics in my cars since the early 90's. I change in October and April and if the car has a oil viscosity range that allows for weight change I go with the thicker (say 10W) in summer a lighter (5W) in winter.
Rumm
I've been doing changes every 6 months (roughly 6-8K miles) using Amsoil synthetics in my cars since the early 90's. I change in October and April and if the car has a oil viscosity range that allows for weight change I go with the thicker (say 10W) in summer a lighter (5W) in winter.
Rumm
Last edited by RUMM; Nov 30, 2009 at 01:54 PM.
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
Robin, I keep seeing this assertion in various threads on this subject. But I keep wondering: as long as you changed the dino oil back to synthetic before having the dealer service the car, how would they ever know you used dino oil?
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If you had dino oil in your car and something happened to the motor, I'm sure they'd perform an analysis on it and would figure it out. But other than that, I don't see why they'd know.
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,578
Likes: 5
From: Paradise
If the dino oil caused a build-up of sludge, or blockage, or trubo failure, or something, I suspect MINI would investage to try and find out what happened. It is possible that the damage would tell them what happened. MINI seems to have people researching unusual warranty requests. As they take the engine apart, they might also be able to tell that you changed the oil after the problem occurred.
An SA told me about a case where someone brought in a MINI with melted brake pads and wanted them changed in the maintenance period. When asked if he had tracked the car, he claimed not. MINI researched it and found that he had tracked it...
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
Doubt that would hold much water considering I don't even own the car yet....
Seriously, though - thanks for your input. I am picking her up on Thursday and planning on an immediate oil change, no matter what... but I guess if voiding the warranty is a real risk then I oughta use synthetic. Sigh.
Seriously, though - thanks for your input. I am picking her up on Thursday and planning on an immediate oil change, no matter what... but I guess if voiding the warranty is a real risk then I oughta use synthetic. Sigh.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
It might surprise folks to realize that the majority of oils that are marketed to be synthetic, are not. Very few true Group IV oils are in the marketplace.
Back in 1997 Castrol started marketing oil as synthetic when it was in fact derived from dino base stocks. Mobil sued in 2000 regarding this terminology and lost. Since then the floodgates have opened up on falsely labeled oil.
In a nutshell, true synthetic oil uses synthetic basestock: it's very homogenous, and this consistency correlates to better lubricity.
Basically the more "additives" you have, the less oil you have. The less oil you have, less lubrication occurs.
Here's a listing of oils from Amsoils website, circa 2003:
I have no affliation to any of the companies listed here.
Back in 1997 Castrol started marketing oil as synthetic when it was in fact derived from dino base stocks. Mobil sued in 2000 regarding this terminology and lost. Since then the floodgates have opened up on falsely labeled oil.
In a nutshell, true synthetic oil uses synthetic basestock: it's very homogenous, and this consistency correlates to better lubricity.
Basestock composition has a significant effect on the overall performance of motor oil. There are four different types of base stock used in the motor oil market today (courtesy Mobil):
Group 1 - Conventional - Mineral oil derived from crude oil
Group 2 - Hydroprocessed - Highly refined mineral oil
Group 3 – Severe hydroprocessed - Ultra refined mineral oil
Group 4 – Full synthetics (chemically derived) - Chemically built Polyalphaolefins (PAO).
As it infers Groups 1 – 3 basestocks are derived from crude oil pumped from the ground whereas Group 4 basestocks are chemically derived, most often from ethylene gas, and contain none of the contaminants present in mineral oils. Just as distilled water is pure water derived from gas so Group 4 basestocks are pure oils derived from gas.
Additives enhance the performance of motor oil basestocks and help adjust the performance of the oil to suit its intended application. Additives are the key to unlock the performance potential of basestocks but even the best additives won’t turn bad oil into good oil.
Some common additives include:
• Viscosity Index Improvers – improve ability to handle heat and severe conditions
• Pour Point Depressants – lower oil freezing point in cold conditions
• Anti-wear Additives – protect against metal-to-metal contact
• Detergents & Dispersants – keep components clean and prevent sludging
• Oxidation Inhibitors – maintain oil stability over service intervals
• Corrosion & Rust Inhibitors – protect against the effects of condensation
• Defoamants – prevent oil foaming and cavitation
Group 1 - Conventional - Mineral oil derived from crude oil
Group 2 - Hydroprocessed - Highly refined mineral oil
Group 3 – Severe hydroprocessed - Ultra refined mineral oil
Group 4 – Full synthetics (chemically derived) - Chemically built Polyalphaolefins (PAO).
As it infers Groups 1 – 3 basestocks are derived from crude oil pumped from the ground whereas Group 4 basestocks are chemically derived, most often from ethylene gas, and contain none of the contaminants present in mineral oils. Just as distilled water is pure water derived from gas so Group 4 basestocks are pure oils derived from gas.
Additives enhance the performance of motor oil basestocks and help adjust the performance of the oil to suit its intended application. Additives are the key to unlock the performance potential of basestocks but even the best additives won’t turn bad oil into good oil.
Some common additives include:
• Viscosity Index Improvers – improve ability to handle heat and severe conditions
• Pour Point Depressants – lower oil freezing point in cold conditions
• Anti-wear Additives – protect against metal-to-metal contact
• Detergents & Dispersants – keep components clean and prevent sludging
• Oxidation Inhibitors – maintain oil stability over service intervals
• Corrosion & Rust Inhibitors – protect against the effects of condensation
• Defoamants – prevent oil foaming and cavitation
Here's a listing of oils from Amsoils website, circa 2003:
Product Name -- Base
Amsoil XL (XLF) -- Group III/Hydrocracked
Amsoil (ASL) -- Group IV/PAO
Mobil 1 -- Group IV/PAO
Pennzoil Synthetic -- Group II/Hydrocracked
Valvoline SynPower -- Group III/Hydrocracked
Castrol Syntec -- Group III/Hydrocracked
Quaker State Full Synthetic -- Group III/Hydrocracked
Amsoil XL (XLF) -- Group III/Hydrocracked
Amsoil (ASL) -- Group IV/PAO
Mobil 1 -- Group IV/PAO
Pennzoil Synthetic -- Group II/Hydrocracked
Valvoline SynPower -- Group III/Hydrocracked
Castrol Syntec -- Group III/Hydrocracked
Quaker State Full Synthetic -- Group III/Hydrocracked
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