Drivetrain MCSA Tranny Fluid Change
I made that comment based on experience and that relayed by others in posts above with the issues involved in removing the top bolt for fluid insertion access. I think you may have to remove a coolant hose to use this thing if you have a 2nd gen car. The first gen cars have easier access.
1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, OH
I am hoping it will work well without removing anything. We will see. I was just going off of what the site said and I have no experience changing the transmission fluid on this vehicle yet. I will update when I receive it.
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Finally got a chance to do the ATF drain today. It's midnight so I'll post pics some other time, as soon as I get a chance.
First off, the funnel in the pic above did not work. I now know why the dealer tool is required. What they have is just a screw-on head attached to a clear plastic tube. The plug has a very small hole through which the ATF flows, as such it goes in WAY slow. If there is ANY room around the hole, the ATF will flow out and you will make a mess. I got lucky with a straight plastic funnel with a long neck, it was just about the same size as the hole, so I shoved it in there (it was so tight, I could have actually screwed it in) and filled it right up.
The instructions to keep the car level are bullcrap. If you do that, you will only get 2 quarts out at most. The best thing to do is jack the front as high as you can. The drain hole is towards the rear of the car so the higher the incline, the more ATF you will get out. The car only needs to stay perfectly level if you are checking the ATF level and making sure it is not overfilled or underfilled. If you have no evidence of leaks anywhere around the pan and plug, then you should by all means have the correct amount of ATF that should be in there from factory. One could always check the level after a drain and fill.
So the procedure is simple. I recommend you do everything below with a cold engine.
Jack the front up as high as you can
Make sure you can get to the fill bolt and take it out. Unbolt the clamp on the hose to the intake box, easiest way to get to the bolt. Get a LONG extension, put the T55 torx on it and unscrew the fill bolt.
Make sure you have a funnel that will work, or better yet get your hands on the dealer tool. The funnel that worked for me is the orange plastic kind you can find at Walmart.
If you can't do the two things above (get the bolt out and have something that you can fill with), you have no business draining the ATF because you will NOT be able to fill it up!
Take off the underbody splash guard along with the tube that goes to the power steering fan
Unbolt the ATF drain plug using an Allen 5. When I did this, with the car cold, I got just under a quart out. My car was NOT jacked up, but it was on a very slight incline (just enough to get the bubble to go half over the mark on a level). Be patient for the ATF to drain.
Use the same Allen key, with the long end, to take the stand pipe out. It is in the same hole as the drain plug. The stand pipe is plastic. Be gentle. Don't force the key in, take your time and make sure you get it right.
You will get more ATF out after the stand pipe comes out. How much, will really depend on how high you have the car jacked up. In my case, when I realized it was better to have the front up, I slid the jackstand for changing the spare tire, jacket it up to full and got out another quart and half.
Measure how much ATF you got out. I went to Walmart and bought a 6 quart plastic drain pan for $3 and the nicest thing was that it was measured on the side, so it was very easy for me to know exactly how much I got out.
After all of it has been done, install in reverse. Careful again with the stand pipe. You do not want to cross thread it or overtorque it. Just tighten it enough, it won't go anywhere since it is held in place anyway by the drain plug. I definitely recommend you get a replacement crush washer for the drain plug for peace of mind and guarantee that you won't drip ATF.
Once you got the stand pipe in and the drain plug, fill up with ATF the exact amount you got out. Be patient, it goes in very slowly. Watch at all times to make sure you are not leaking ATF around the fill bolt and funnel head.
Screw the ATF fill plug by hand first because if you do it with the T55, you have a very high chance of cross-threading it. Your key will sit at an angle, it is inevitable. So screw it by hand 2 good full turns and then go with the key. The full plug has a rubber O-ring, I would not worry about replacing it but it's up to you.
And that's about it! Like I said, I took some pictures so I'll post them up. Not much else to reveal other than what I already have above.
I only drained 2.5 quarts out of the total of 6 in the system, needless to say I was disappointed. I will do another drain and fill and this time I will jack up the front to the heavens. I could already tell the tranny shifted better, it was smoother. In manual mode it shifted nice and crisp as always. In D mode, from 1st to 2nd I can feel a slight slip which I am hoping the transmission will re-learn to shift and it will go away. The slip is after the gear disengages, when the next gear engages, it slips slightly, as if the ATF is too oily, if that makes sense. I used Mobil 1 synthetic universal ATF. It is quoted as being suitable for JWS 3309 replacement. As far as how my old ATF looked ... I kept it and will take pictures. It is the color of coffee. Pretty much opaque, very dark brown. If I swoosh it around, whatever sticks on the sides of the plastic bottle I have it in, looks a dark red. I definitely think it was due for a change.
Anyone want to chip in for a Blackstone Labs analysis on this thing? LOL.
First off, the funnel in the pic above did not work. I now know why the dealer tool is required. What they have is just a screw-on head attached to a clear plastic tube. The plug has a very small hole through which the ATF flows, as such it goes in WAY slow. If there is ANY room around the hole, the ATF will flow out and you will make a mess. I got lucky with a straight plastic funnel with a long neck, it was just about the same size as the hole, so I shoved it in there (it was so tight, I could have actually screwed it in) and filled it right up.
The instructions to keep the car level are bullcrap. If you do that, you will only get 2 quarts out at most. The best thing to do is jack the front as high as you can. The drain hole is towards the rear of the car so the higher the incline, the more ATF you will get out. The car only needs to stay perfectly level if you are checking the ATF level and making sure it is not overfilled or underfilled. If you have no evidence of leaks anywhere around the pan and plug, then you should by all means have the correct amount of ATF that should be in there from factory. One could always check the level after a drain and fill.
So the procedure is simple. I recommend you do everything below with a cold engine.
Jack the front up as high as you can
Make sure you can get to the fill bolt and take it out. Unbolt the clamp on the hose to the intake box, easiest way to get to the bolt. Get a LONG extension, put the T55 torx on it and unscrew the fill bolt.
Make sure you have a funnel that will work, or better yet get your hands on the dealer tool. The funnel that worked for me is the orange plastic kind you can find at Walmart.
If you can't do the two things above (get the bolt out and have something that you can fill with), you have no business draining the ATF because you will NOT be able to fill it up!
Take off the underbody splash guard along with the tube that goes to the power steering fan
Unbolt the ATF drain plug using an Allen 5. When I did this, with the car cold, I got just under a quart out. My car was NOT jacked up, but it was on a very slight incline (just enough to get the bubble to go half over the mark on a level). Be patient for the ATF to drain.
Use the same Allen key, with the long end, to take the stand pipe out. It is in the same hole as the drain plug. The stand pipe is plastic. Be gentle. Don't force the key in, take your time and make sure you get it right.
You will get more ATF out after the stand pipe comes out. How much, will really depend on how high you have the car jacked up. In my case, when I realized it was better to have the front up, I slid the jackstand for changing the spare tire, jacket it up to full and got out another quart and half.
Measure how much ATF you got out. I went to Walmart and bought a 6 quart plastic drain pan for $3 and the nicest thing was that it was measured on the side, so it was very easy for me to know exactly how much I got out.
After all of it has been done, install in reverse. Careful again with the stand pipe. You do not want to cross thread it or overtorque it. Just tighten it enough, it won't go anywhere since it is held in place anyway by the drain plug. I definitely recommend you get a replacement crush washer for the drain plug for peace of mind and guarantee that you won't drip ATF.
Once you got the stand pipe in and the drain plug, fill up with ATF the exact amount you got out. Be patient, it goes in very slowly. Watch at all times to make sure you are not leaking ATF around the fill bolt and funnel head.
Screw the ATF fill plug by hand first because if you do it with the T55, you have a very high chance of cross-threading it. Your key will sit at an angle, it is inevitable. So screw it by hand 2 good full turns and then go with the key. The full plug has a rubber O-ring, I would not worry about replacing it but it's up to you.
And that's about it! Like I said, I took some pictures so I'll post them up. Not much else to reveal other than what I already have above.
I only drained 2.5 quarts out of the total of 6 in the system, needless to say I was disappointed. I will do another drain and fill and this time I will jack up the front to the heavens. I could already tell the tranny shifted better, it was smoother. In manual mode it shifted nice and crisp as always. In D mode, from 1st to 2nd I can feel a slight slip which I am hoping the transmission will re-learn to shift and it will go away. The slip is after the gear disengages, when the next gear engages, it slips slightly, as if the ATF is too oily, if that makes sense. I used Mobil 1 synthetic universal ATF. It is quoted as being suitable for JWS 3309 replacement. As far as how my old ATF looked ... I kept it and will take pictures. It is the color of coffee. Pretty much opaque, very dark brown. If I swoosh it around, whatever sticks on the sides of the plastic bottle I have it in, looks a dark red. I definitely think it was due for a change.
Anyone want to chip in for a Blackstone Labs analysis on this thing? LOL.
You just want to make sure the fluid you put in is about the same temp as the fluid you take out & measure - just so the volume is close enough to the same - since the volume varies fairly significantly with temp.
1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, OH
Just received the ATF 105 tool. It appears it will fit down to the fill whole without removing anything. I am going make an easy setup to use and post pics later in a couple of days.
The Mini is sitting at the dealership with two bad runflats and a bent wheel. All kinds of potholes here in Columbus. Thank goodness I have tire AND wheel roadhazard coverage!
The Mini is sitting at the dealership with two bad runflats and a bent wheel. All kinds of potholes here in Columbus. Thank goodness I have tire AND wheel roadhazard coverage!
Last edited by Medic_Coop; Oct 6, 2010 at 07:29 PM.
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
From: TX
Best way is to use a funnel like the one described in this thread. Make sure you don't twist it around too much because you run the risk of it getting chewed up and the plastic pieces might end up in the tranny.
This tranny is a pain in the **** to work on. If it had ATF lines running to the radiator like pretty much almost all trannies on the market, then ATF exchange could have been a lot easier. That and an actual dipstick.
This tranny is a pain in the **** to work on. If it had ATF lines running to the radiator like pretty much almost all trannies on the market, then ATF exchange could have been a lot easier. That and an actual dipstick.
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
I have now finished 3 fluid changes. Each time almost exactly 2.5 quarts. My transmission is shifting 110% better. A small kick back shifting 2nd to 3rd but I mean really small. Hopefully after I drive for a while the tranny will relearn and no more stutter. In all the other gears I can barely feel the shift
. So much for MINI's claim of lifetime fluid. I am wondering how many people paid 8k for a new tranny when all they needed to do was change the so called lifetime fluid? Fishbones DIY needs to be added to the DIY forum. It was fairly easy to do and made a big difference. Thanks Fishbone!
. So much for MINI's claim of lifetime fluid. I am wondering how many people paid 8k for a new tranny when all they needed to do was change the so called lifetime fluid? Fishbones DIY needs to be added to the DIY forum. It was fairly easy to do and made a big difference. Thanks Fishbone!
I found this letter from Valvoline on a BMW forum where they state it is compatible with Toyota TIV (which is our fluid), however since TIV is about $4 or $5 at a Toyota dealer, I wonder if Maxlife is any cheaper than the real thing? I used Mobil 1 Synthetic on mine.
THOMAS R. SMITH Technical Director, Valvoline Brand July 1, 2005 To Whom It May Concern: Valvoline has received several inquiries regarding the topic of MaxLife ATF and its use in various vehicles beyond those requiring DEXRON®-III or MERCON® approved products. In response to these questions Valvoline has issued the following statements: Valvoline supports the use of MaxLife ATF in a broad range of transmissions beyond those requiring DEXRON III and MERCON fluids including those where the following fluids are recommended: • GM DEXRON II • Ford MERCON V • Allison C-4 • Chrysler ATF+3 or ATF+4 fluids • Toyota (and Lexus) Type T, T-III or T-IV fluids • Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II or SP-III fluids • KIA SP-II and SP-III Fluids • Hyundai • Honda/Acura ATF-Z1 fluid (except in CVTs) • BMW LT71141 or LA2634 fluids • Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J, and Matic-K fluids • MB Sheet 236.x • Volvo 1161521 and 1161540 • JWS 3309 • GM 9986195 • Audi G-052-025-A2 • VW TL52162 Valvoline has conducted in-house testing to support MaxLife ATF performance in these transmissions. However, it is important to note that these vehicle manufacturers have neither evaluated nor approved MaxLife ATF. Valvoline stands behind all of its products, including MaxLife ATF. Use of MaxLife ATF in transmissions where recommended by Valvoline WILL NOT void the vehicle’s warranty. In the unlikely event that any transmission was to be damaged as a result of the use of MaxLife ATF, please contact Valvoline at 1-800-Team-VAL. While MaxLife ATF is designed to meet the special needs of higher mileage transmissions, new transmissions can also benefit from its enhanced oxidation protection, shear stability, seal compatibility, and anti-shudder protection and many consumers have chosen to take advantage of this level of performance. MaxLife ATF is recommended for the new 5 and 6 speed transmissions, except the Ford 5R110, Ford 6RXX, and the Mercedes Benz W7A700 (7G-Tronic) which all require a low viscosity ATF fluid. Valvoline does not recommend MaxLife ATF for use in continuously variable transmissions (CVT’s) or in automatic transmissions where Ford Type F is recommended. Sincerely, Thom Smith Technical Director, Valvoline Brand Valvoline, a division of Ashland Inc.
THOMAS R. SMITH Technical Director, Valvoline Brand July 1, 2005 To Whom It May Concern: Valvoline has received several inquiries regarding the topic of MaxLife ATF and its use in various vehicles beyond those requiring DEXRON®-III or MERCON® approved products. In response to these questions Valvoline has issued the following statements: Valvoline supports the use of MaxLife ATF in a broad range of transmissions beyond those requiring DEXRON III and MERCON fluids including those where the following fluids are recommended: • GM DEXRON II • Ford MERCON V • Allison C-4 • Chrysler ATF+3 or ATF+4 fluids • Toyota (and Lexus) Type T, T-III or T-IV fluids • Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II or SP-III fluids • KIA SP-II and SP-III Fluids • Hyundai • Honda/Acura ATF-Z1 fluid (except in CVTs) • BMW LT71141 or LA2634 fluids • Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J, and Matic-K fluids • MB Sheet 236.x • Volvo 1161521 and 1161540 • JWS 3309 • GM 9986195 • Audi G-052-025-A2 • VW TL52162 Valvoline has conducted in-house testing to support MaxLife ATF performance in these transmissions. However, it is important to note that these vehicle manufacturers have neither evaluated nor approved MaxLife ATF. Valvoline stands behind all of its products, including MaxLife ATF. Use of MaxLife ATF in transmissions where recommended by Valvoline WILL NOT void the vehicle’s warranty. In the unlikely event that any transmission was to be damaged as a result of the use of MaxLife ATF, please contact Valvoline at 1-800-Team-VAL. While MaxLife ATF is designed to meet the special needs of higher mileage transmissions, new transmissions can also benefit from its enhanced oxidation protection, shear stability, seal compatibility, and anti-shudder protection and many consumers have chosen to take advantage of this level of performance. MaxLife ATF is recommended for the new 5 and 6 speed transmissions, except the Ford 5R110, Ford 6RXX, and the Mercedes Benz W7A700 (7G-Tronic) which all require a low viscosity ATF fluid. Valvoline does not recommend MaxLife ATF for use in continuously variable transmissions (CVT’s) or in automatic transmissions where Ford Type F is recommended. Sincerely, Thom Smith Technical Director, Valvoline Brand Valvoline, a division of Ashland Inc.
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
From: TX
^Actually try looking for the JWS-3309 spec since that's the OEM one. T-IV is just about the same, true.
Small issue with our tranny. When cold, in the morning, takes a full second and half to engage in Reverse for the first time to back out of the garage. This morning my wife put it in reverse and it slammed like she just closed the door. Check engine light came on, she admitted she did not have the foot fully on the brake so she might have released it and hit the gas before the tranny fully engaged. I'll pull the code and let you all know. I did make sure the ATF level was adequate by letting the tranny cool down, pulling the drain bolt and when the ATF pan got to the specified temperature, fluid started coming out, so it should be fine.
Small issue with our tranny. When cold, in the morning, takes a full second and half to engage in Reverse for the first time to back out of the garage. This morning my wife put it in reverse and it slammed like she just closed the door. Check engine light came on, she admitted she did not have the foot fully on the brake so she might have released it and hit the gas before the tranny fully engaged. I'll pull the code and let you all know. I did make sure the ATF level was adequate by letting the tranny cool down, pulling the drain bolt and when the ATF pan got to the specified temperature, fluid started coming out, so it should be fine.
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
From: TX
CEL caused by wife in hurry who did not tighten the gas cap ...
I would still like to get a "show of hands" from my fellow auto owners, does your tranny take a bit when cold to engage reverse and when it does, you definitely feel it? Ours takes about 1.5-2 seconds.
I would still like to get a "show of hands" from my fellow auto owners, does your tranny take a bit when cold to engage reverse and when it does, you definitely feel it? Ours takes about 1.5-2 seconds.
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
From: TX
We had the serpentine belt changed yesterday, it was a bit overdue at 70K miles and wow, the car drives even smoother now! Gear engagement is smooth even in 1-2 which before was a bit noticeable and slammy depending on throttle position and input.
MCS only has one serpentine belt which drives everything, right?
MCS only has one serpentine belt which drives everything, right?
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
[quote=fishbone
I would still like to get a "show of hands" from my fellow auto owners, does your tranny take a bit when cold to engage reverse and when it does, you definitely feel it? Ours takes about 1.5-2 seconds.[/quote]
Ours from cold will take over one second to engage reverse, but I wouldn't say it slams in, you can feel it more when cold than hot, but the engine revs are higher when cold so you would feel it a bit more.
Fishbone you say changing the serpentine belt helped with the gear engagement, I cant figure that one out
, it only drives the aux equipment don't it.
I was thinking about getting one of the engine dampers to reduce engine movement to get the 1-2 upshift and the 3-2 downshift smoother.
I would still like to get a "show of hands" from my fellow auto owners, does your tranny take a bit when cold to engage reverse and when it does, you definitely feel it? Ours takes about 1.5-2 seconds.[/quote]
Ours from cold will take over one second to engage reverse, but I wouldn't say it slams in, you can feel it more when cold than hot, but the engine revs are higher when cold so you would feel it a bit more.
Fishbone you say changing the serpentine belt helped with the gear engagement, I cant figure that one out
, it only drives the aux equipment don't it.I was thinking about getting one of the engine dampers to reduce engine movement to get the 1-2 upshift and the 3-2 downshift smoother.
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
From: TX
The belt also drives the supercharger, doesn't it? I think ours was slipping so torque delivery was not linear and this caused some shifting issues as a result. All feels normal now, including reverse engagement. It's like you said, not a slam you just feel it. Ours takes about a second, second and half at the very most
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Ours has got to go in to BMW on friday for an inpection, well thats what it says on the clock, its done about 25k mls, so I am going to ask them to reset the adaption on the autobox, see if this helps the 1-2 3-2 shifting.
I want to see if I can get the 1-2 3-2 shifting as smooth as the other changes, most of the time all the shifting is fine but the odd shift will occur with a little bump up 1-2 or a bump down on the 3-2.
I think I will get them to activate or deactivate some of the comfort options,
I dont like the daytime running lights, the autolights come on to early, it can be good daylight and they will switch on , I will see if they will activate the global opening, I would like to have had the full closure on the fob locking but I dont think its an option for the mini.
There must be some other little toys or bells & whistles I can get them to switch on
I want to see if I can get the 1-2 3-2 shifting as smooth as the other changes, most of the time all the shifting is fine but the odd shift will occur with a little bump up 1-2 or a bump down on the 3-2.
I think I will get them to activate or deactivate some of the comfort options,
I dont like the daytime running lights, the autolights come on to early, it can be good daylight and they will switch on
, I will see if they will activate the global opening, I would like to have had the full closure on the fob locking but I dont think its an option for the mini.There must be some other little toys or bells & whistles I can get them to switch on