Yeah, I think the reality is that you do a drain and fill, and you end up with something better than "half new" fluid once it all mixes up. Which is a lot better than "all old" fluid IMHO.

 

I had a 1992 Honda Civic with an automatic and the Honda factory service manual recommended 3 drain and fills to effectively change out all the transmission fluid. Go for at least a 10 mile drive or a few days between changes to allow all the fluid to mix. The procedure would work on a MINI. Unlike most cars, the MINI Aisin lacks cooling lines that carry ATF to the lower portion of the radiator, which would allow for a flush machine to be connected. The MINI AT cooling lines carry coolant!

 

There is also a filter (or "Strainer") that requires removing tranny pan to replace.

#9 on this drawing:

 

yeah - I think I'm gonna get a gasket and filter/strainer and drop the pan when we do mine.

 

Follow this link, in the drawing Part 6 is the fill bolt that is visible once you remove the air filter. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...63&hg=24&fg=15

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.d...31&hg=24&fg=15

 

hopefully not for later.. hikthxbai

 

There are a few automatic transmission flush machines with an option to do a flush through the internal filter connections once you drop the pan. The problem is locating a shop with one that will use the Correct fluid, JSpec 3309 sold by Mini for $30 a liter, or as Toyota T-IV for $5 a quart or Mobil 3309 for about $5 or $6 a quart for a case over the internet and various other names by Ford, Mazda, Volvo, VW.
The Aisin 6 speed automatic is also used in some Ford Fusion models, some Mazda 6 models, Some Volvos (note these vehicles are all under the Ford corporate parent and share platforms), also some post 2005 VWs, they call it the tiptronic. These dealers will charge at least $8 a quart. However the cheapest factory spec fluid is T-IV from Toyota.

 

MINI Aisin Fluid Change.pdf

 

Thanks Oxy, I have seen these cryptic instructions before. Something sounds lost in translation. Do you have any practical advice from experience regarding this crazy procedure to add fluid until it comes out the drain hole? Are they specifically referring to an overflow hole? Because that bolt number 1 does not look like an overflow hole. It looks like the bottom of the pan. I also guess the engine is off when you run it thru the gears on this procedure or else you would pump out all the fluid. Again, BMW/MINI do not elaborate and leave out many useful details.

Did you do it this way? Did you preheat the fluid? Or did you just perform a simple cold drain out x number of measured quarts and pump back in x number of measured quarts?

 

The way I read it, you actually have it running while you go through the gears. Are you for certain that is for the 06mcsa? the o8 uses the same tranny?? I have 33k. I hope my dealer will do it b4 50k lol fat chance!

 

The same Aisin 6 speed is used in both later first generations and all second generations. If your first generation does not have the dreaded CVT, then it has the Aisin 6 speed.

The dealers all state it is sealed for life and know nothing about basic maintenance for this transmission. They just figure that with no maintenance it will last at least until the warranty is up, and then it is not their problem. There may be a local independent Mini/BMW shop that would do flushes. Make sure they do the right fluid, they would have to drop the pan to connect thru the lines at the filter screen.

 

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lol

 

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f4...lts-34064.html

 

What does a Touareg auto tranny have in common with the one used in the MINI?

Or are you showing the need for the fluid change out? Lots of carp in that sample that was tested.

 

The Touareg tranny appears to be an Aisin 6 speed auto of similar design to the MINI's. Not the same model, but appears to be the same "family". Seems like an interesting and relevant comparison to me.

 

crying
baby has brought me back to tranny thoughts lol

 

Reading the transmission fluid forums at bobistheoilguy.com it appears that many Toyota owners have successfully replaced their Toyota TIV a/k/a 3309 ATF fluid with Redline D4 ATF which is fully synthetic and had improved shift performance and it will provide better protection. RedLine states it meets TIV specs. I plan to use it when I get around to doing a couple of drain and fills. You can get a case of 12 through Amazon for $125 with free shipping.

 

Update: Volkswagen, which uses the same Aisin automatic transmission in some models, they call it the 09G (Tiptronic), has just called for fluid changes every 40,000 miles!
Here is the post from the VW forum:

 

I found the procedure for changing the fluid at a VW site (for the VW 09G Tiptronic) same transmission. I think they got it from the Bentley manual (I added comments in ())
Note, I would loosen the filler plug first. You do not want to drain it and find you cannot fill it!


055 025 A2 is the fluid and it takes about 7.4 qt... 6 Spd. Automatic Transmission 09G
Special tools, testers and auxiliary items required
Filler system V.A.G 1924 (use a $5 oil pump instead)

Mount reservoir of ATF filler system V.A.G 1924 as high as possible on. (Get long enough hose to reach filler hole from bottle of ATF)

Drive vehicle onto a four column lifting platform or over an assembly pit in order for it to be absolutely horizontal. (Jack it up and place on jack stands)
Remove sound insulation tray ( probably not applicable to Mini)
Note: The engine must not be started or towed without ATF in the transmission. [/SIZE
WARNING! [/align][*]When working close to the radiator, always maintain a certain distance from the fan - danger of injury! [/ul][/align][*]Fan may switch on automatically. [/ul][/align]
Draining ATF
Place drip tray under transmission
Remove drain plug
Allow ATF to drain out.
Unscrew overflow pipe - (Allen key, size 5) and allow remaining ATF to drain away. Replace seal on ATF drain plug.
Screw in ATF drain plug
ATF drain plug to oil pan, M18 39 Nm
Install overflow pipe -C- (Allen key, size 5). Small oil pipe in oil pan 1 Nm
Filling with ATF
Remove filler plug (Torx socket head T55) (arrow).
Note: The filler plug seal (arrow) must always be replaced.
Attach hook of filler system V.A.G 1924 in aperture of filler plug (stick hose from fluid pump into fill hole and pump in fluid,same amount as drained out)
Top off ATF with V.A.G 1924 until ATF emerges via overflow pipe from inspection aperture.
Move selector lever to position "P".
Start engine.Continue to top off ATF with V.A.G 1924 until ATF emerges from inspection hole again.
Tighten ATF inspection plug.
With brake pedal depressed and engine running at idling speed, select all selector lever positions "P, R, N, D, S" in sequence (each position should remain selected for a minimum of 3 seconds).
Move selector lever to position "P". [/ul][/align] [/align][*]Check and top off ATF level

 

I will provide some pictures I took yesterday that should help locating the fill bolt for those still hunting for it.

I am still unclear on something. The drain bolt is an Allen 5 bolt, the only one I see in the pan. You unscrew this bolt and then there is the overflow bolt which is used to ensure you have the proper level in there. However, this bolt won't allow you to drain what is in the pan. The overflow bolt takes the same Hex 5 key to remove?

You don't need any special fill tool, I took a picture of what I will use, seems to work great, fits right into that hole.
Replacement parts are ridiculous btw if you want to replace the strainer. $46 or so for the strainer, $70 or so for the pan gasket. WTF?

 

It appears from the VW instructions that after you remove the drain plug, you then unscrew the overflow bolt to drain the transmission. it also appears to be a really low torque bolt so should come loose easily.

I look forward to seeing your photos. I need to do mine in the next couple of weeks, if the temperature around here drops below 95. Already have 6 quarts of Toyota T-IV from the local dealer. Did you reuse the drain plug gaskets or get some from the Mini dealer or local auto parts store?

 

I haven't touched anything yet, I just unbolted the fill to see if I can find it, get to it and fill it. Because failing that, I had no business messing with anything else. I will challenge myself to drain everything without raising the car, because that's the best bet in keeping it level.
The filler plug has a rubber O-ring. I do not plan on replacing it. I also do not plan on replacing the drain plug washers unless I see evidence of dripping. It should be fine to reuse it.
I was going to use Mobil 1's synthetic universal ATF or Amsoil, but I think I'm going to stick to their JWS-3309 or, if too expensive, go with Toyota's Type-IV. What change interval does that call for? Since this is not the easiest to do, I'm hoping I can get at least 30K out of it.

 

Wow! How do you get to the filler hole without raisng the car? When I did a test run I had mine on jack stands and reached up from underneath. (it was not that hard to get it level on jack stands) I had to buy a curved Torx bit wrench in the right size because a torx socket and ratchet would not fit with room to turn. I guess you removed the air filter housing and reached in from above, that will at least be necessary to fill the transmission.

Go to a Toyota dealer and get some T-IV. It is JWS 3309. Same exact fluid, just re-labeled. Exxon Mobil probably makes it for Toyota in the US and relabels it, the MINI overpriced stuff (triple or quadruple the Toyota price, I think I hear $13 or $30 a quart) is also Exxon Mobil JWS 3309 relabeled. They are all the same fluid. It is also used by some models of Saab, Volvo, Subaru, Mazda with Aisin transmissions. I once bought a case of Exxon Mobil 3309, when I did a flush on my wife's Lexus ES330 when I found a deal and got it cheaper than the local Toyota dealer. It worked the same. I think the bottles even looked the same with different labels. If you go synthetic I would be more inclined to use Redline D4 rather than Mobil or Amosoil based on other members very favorable reviews of it in their Toyota Aisin transmissions.

 

I am pretty sure I got the right filler hole. It is the only T-55 torx that I found on the tranny, somewhat straight down from the airbox, isn't that one it? As you are looking down from the airbox, it is a wee bit on the left. Took it off an saw cough-syrup colored fluid.
I used two extender arms, that way I was able to hook up my ratchet all the way up to airbox level. You are right, it sits at a slight angle. For this reason, I unhooked the air intake hose and squeezed my hand in there in order to screw the bolt back on. If you don't do this, you are almost guaranteed to cross-thread it. Get it screwed on before you tighten it down.

 

I got a cheap kit similar to this from harbor freight. Mine is black, the xtenders are not as long but you do get more. I got them in preparation for my spark plug change. Hooked up two to each other and those suckers are long!
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...set-39193.html