Drivetrain Early Crank Pulley Out, Facelift Crank Pulley In.
Early Crank Pulley Out, Facelift Crank Pulley In.
I just swapped out my early model crank pulley for a late model 2005-2006 crank pulley. The swap went routine except for pressing on the late model pulley with install tool.
The pulley encountered lots of friction the last 1/8" going on the crank snout. The increased friction resulted in my install tool cracking right at where shoulder and course M12-1.75 threads start.
I was probably torquing the install nut-and it's fine threads-at about 70 ft-lbs when it let loose. I was able to twist out the broken off install tool nub easily and carrry on. The special tool's M12-1.75 thread length should really be another inch or so to help the tool from being overloaded and breaking in the crank!
Anyways, to carry on the task of pressing the crank pulley home, I used a M12-1.75 X 80mm bolt with 4 shimming washers well lubed torqued to about 60 ft-lbs in the crank. With the M12 bolt in the crank and mildly torqued I brought out the BFH and 2X4 chuck of wood. So it went BFH, re-torque M12 bolt, BFH, re-torque M12 bolt(you get the idea) for about 20 minutes until the crank pulley was seated home on crank snout.
The crank pulley lined up lovely with it's new 535 drive belt and passed it's idle test. After that I and took her for a 30 mile test drive. She worked well and my clutch chatter seems to be somewhat muted compared to the stock early model crank pulley!
Jeremy
Stock pulley removed.
Stock pulley left and facelift pulley right. Bolts at top are as follows: M12-1.75 X 80mm bolt grade 8.8, stock M12-1.75 75mm crank pulley bolt grade 10.9, pulley install tool grade duff.

Side shot comparison.

Side shot comparison.

Halfway through thread restoring the crank pulley bolt. New Blue Loctite went on it for install!

Facelift crank pulley and it's new home!
The pulley encountered lots of friction the last 1/8" going on the crank snout. The increased friction resulted in my install tool cracking right at where shoulder and course M12-1.75 threads start.
I was probably torquing the install nut-and it's fine threads-at about 70 ft-lbs when it let loose. I was able to twist out the broken off install tool nub easily and carrry on. The special tool's M12-1.75 thread length should really be another inch or so to help the tool from being overloaded and breaking in the crank!
Anyways, to carry on the task of pressing the crank pulley home, I used a M12-1.75 X 80mm bolt with 4 shimming washers well lubed torqued to about 60 ft-lbs in the crank. With the M12 bolt in the crank and mildly torqued I brought out the BFH and 2X4 chuck of wood. So it went BFH, re-torque M12 bolt, BFH, re-torque M12 bolt(you get the idea) for about 20 minutes until the crank pulley was seated home on crank snout.
The crank pulley lined up lovely with it's new 535 drive belt and passed it's idle test. After that I and took her for a 30 mile test drive. She worked well and my clutch chatter seems to be somewhat muted compared to the stock early model crank pulley!
Jeremy
Stock pulley removed.

Stock pulley left and facelift pulley right. Bolts at top are as follows: M12-1.75 X 80mm bolt grade 8.8, stock M12-1.75 75mm crank pulley bolt grade 10.9, pulley install tool grade duff.

Side shot comparison.

Side shot comparison.

Halfway through thread restoring the crank pulley bolt. New Blue Loctite went on it for install!

Facelift crank pulley and it's new home!
That's right Bryan! BFH for the win! Ask any woman that.
I got a note from K-huevo stating that he's seen a few re-used crank bolts back out. I'll order a new bolt from MINI(it may come with pre-applied thread locker). When I replace it I'll post the torque value that the re-used bolt let go at.
Jeremy
I got a note from K-huevo stating that he's seen a few re-used crank bolts back out. I'll order a new bolt from MINI(it may come with pre-applied thread locker). When I replace it I'll post the torque value that the re-used bolt let go at.
Jeremy
Yes I've considered it Bigshot. The later model pulley should hold up well for me and definitely better than my stock pulley. Are you spinning the new ATI fluid Damper Bigshot?
My work shut down at the end of August so my MINI doesn't do Mon-Fri duty steady anymore. I must find work so I can continue to beat back my mortgage and drive my MINI more!
Jeremy
My work shut down at the end of August so my MINI doesn't do Mon-Fri duty steady anymore. I must find work so I can continue to beat back my mortgage and drive my MINI more!
Jeremy
Yes I've considered it Bigshot. The later model pulley should hold up well for me and definitely better than my stock pulley. Are you spinning the new ATI fluid Damper Bigshot?
My work shut down at the end of August so my MINI doesn't do Mon-Fri duty steady anymore. I must find work so I can continue to beat back my mortgage and drive my MINI more!
Jeremy
My work shut down at the end of August so my MINI doesn't do Mon-Fri duty steady anymore. I must find work so I can continue to beat back my mortgage and drive my MINI more!
Jeremy
greg
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Greg I went with an 05/06 crank pulley because of odds. Pre-facelift crank pullies don't seem to stand up compared with facelift crank pullies.
However with your post it seems the facelift pullies are evening up the odds....haha. If it goes South on me I'll figure it out. Thanks!
Jeremy
However with your post it seems the facelift pullies are evening up the odds....haha. If it goes South on me I'll figure it out. Thanks!
Jeremy
Cost was a concern Bigshot along with application. My MINI is A to B primarily and now with limited use. See post # 5. An ATI would be nice but not necessary for me, well until I have a failure.
Randy Webb sent me a good/used for a fair price from the NAM marketplace.
I figured to up reliability and shed a pound off the crank snout was not a bad thing.
Greg/bean, do you have any separation shots of failed facelift crank pullies by any chance?
Jeremy
Randy Webb sent me a good/used for a fair price from the NAM marketplace.
Greg/bean, do you have any separation shots of failed facelift crank pullies by any chance?
Jeremy
i don't have any pics, but pedro has the part. i'll have him sent me some pics or post them.
if buying new parts, i think that it is a no-brainer. the ATI is $425 and oem is $390. i was going to sell my functioning oem pulley, but i don't think that i can sell it w/ a clear conscience.
greg
if buying new parts, i think that it is a no-brainer. the ATI is $425 and oem is $390. i was going to sell my functioning oem pulley, but i don't think that i can sell it w/ a clear conscience.
greg
i just posted in this thread about 2 06's that had crank pulley failures and stated that i wouldn't sell my functioning pulley when i replace it. mine has been track used/abused like my two friends whose pullies failed.
Glad to see you got it on there. Like Bean said I had the luck of installing one over the weekend at Mickey and MINI when Pedro's stock 05 pulley came apart. I had our new ATI damper there just to show off, hadn't planned on installing it, but to his luck I put on the ATI damper and it worked great. For anyone that is going to upgrade this is the WAY to go. It's only 3 oz's lighter than the 05/06 pulley, but a couple pounds lighter than the earlier ones. Plus it dampens better than both.
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www.WayMotorWorks.com 2006 & 2007 NAMCC Overall Champion

Nice of you to do the install with your demo ATI crank pulley WAY! Hopefully you installed it late in the day so you could at least show it off to the crowd.
Jeremy
way: pedro doesn't visit here often, but i would like to thank you on his behalf. he now has a better pulley/damper for his application. he had never heard of the ATI damper. i told him that this was what i planned on installing on my race MINI. he didn't hesitate. he won't be disappointed. an added bonus is being able to drive home vs. flat-bedding. thanks, way.
greg
greg




