Drivetrain JCW Intake vs DDM Street and Ram AIR Scoop
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Northern Suburbs
JCW Intake vs DDM Street and Ram AIR Scoop
Hey all I have a couple of questions that I'm hoping those of you who have either used these or have technical knowledge can give me some advise about.
I have a 07 MCSm with stage 1 JCW kit and JCW suspension.
I am very ignorant when it comes to car mechanics so please bear with me. From what I understand both the JCW and the stock intakes suck the air from the bottom of the car.
When I was younger and was into the Fast and the Furious
all my Hondas had CAI intakes which I absolutely loved the sound of, and the difference in performance (although negligent).
Also right now I really don't like that the sound of the JCW exhaust that completely drown out everything else.
Anyway I have been looking at CAI intakes particularly at the DDM street and have a question.
1.Which one has a better performance, throttle response the JCW or DDM street one?
2. Is it possible to just install a CAI fileter such as K&M into the JCW box and live it open (take the top cover off)
3. Will the DDM Ram Air Scoop make any difference with either the JCW intake, the JCW intake with a CAI filter (if thats possible) or even with the DDM street intake.
Other thoughts and suggestions are welcome!!!
I've read a couple of threads, where people say that in a forced induction air car such as ours the Ram Air Scoop does not do anything at all and is useless. I just want to hear more about it. If that the case it makes perfect sense that the stock hood scoop is a non-functioning unit (I have the JCW carbon fiber scoop).
On the flip side then whats the deal with the DDM Ram Air Scoop and the M7 Vortex Scoop?
Is that just a cheap marketing ploy?
Thanks all
I have a 07 MCSm with stage 1 JCW kit and JCW suspension.
I am very ignorant when it comes to car mechanics so please bear with me. From what I understand both the JCW and the stock intakes suck the air from the bottom of the car.
When I was younger and was into the Fast and the Furious
all my Hondas had CAI intakes which I absolutely loved the sound of, and the difference in performance (although negligent).Also right now I really don't like that the sound of the JCW exhaust that completely drown out everything else.
Anyway I have been looking at CAI intakes particularly at the DDM street and have a question.
1.Which one has a better performance, throttle response the JCW or DDM street one?
2. Is it possible to just install a CAI fileter such as K&M into the JCW box and live it open (take the top cover off)
3. Will the DDM Ram Air Scoop make any difference with either the JCW intake, the JCW intake with a CAI filter (if thats possible) or even with the DDM street intake.
Other thoughts and suggestions are welcome!!!
I've read a couple of threads, where people say that in a forced induction air car such as ours the Ram Air Scoop does not do anything at all and is useless. I just want to hear more about it. If that the case it makes perfect sense that the stock hood scoop is a non-functioning unit (I have the JCW carbon fiber scoop).
On the flip side then whats the deal with the DDM Ram Air Scoop and the M7 Vortex Scoop?
Is that just a cheap marketing ploy?
Thanks all
ok... since no one else has answered, i have DDMWork's Race intake... that's their pressurized box and ram air scoop that connects to the hood. now my race intake is made very functional because i have M7's Vortex Scoop... in theory and in practice, at speed this will be much better because it will have not one but two cold air access... one being the stock one (since the race intake uses the stock bottom of the airbox...) and the other being the ram air section that goes into the top of the pressurized box... now presumably at higher speed, more air will be rammed into the box and into the K&N Cone filter they provide... it works very well from what i notice... now, what i DO have to warn against, i also have the alta inlet hose for the turbo, there is a little bit of rubbing from the hood scoop attachment, nothing major but you'll notice it if you're **** about that kinda thing.
now on to your points...
1) i honestly don't know.. i'm pretty sure that the DDMWorks street intake would give you more of the "SOUND" u want... open filters tend to do that, OR, if you want to save some money and just want the sound, get an aftermarket BOV that replaces the stock noise maker (now remember there are TWO bovs on the R56... one is right on the turbo which is modified by forge with their bypass valve (this one is the one activated when the car decides to vent boost for traction reasons aka DSC, i wouldn't suggest touching that one, but that's just me....) the other one is the "noise maker", which stems off the cold side boost tube... that just gives some noise after lift off through a diaphram... now what you can do is go for something like Alta's BOV or Helix13's BOV, they both replace the noise maker and have an additional tap that goes under the MAP sensor, it's easy to do and, if you lived close to me, i would even install it for you for nothing, takes all of 20 minutes too... so if you want just the noise of boost, go with BOV route (i have a helix13 bov and am EXTREMELY happy with it...)
2) if you just want more intake ability while keeping the closed and pressurized environment, Alta makes an adaptor to basically put their open air foam filter into the JCW air box... worth looking into... another option is MINI Madness has a similar thing just regular kinda velocity stack filter rather than foam.
3) the DDMWorks air scoop is made to basically work with an open filter or their closed Race intake... reason it wouldn't do anything with your JCW airbox is because it's like pointing a leaf blower at a house at full blast... it doesn't matter how much air you throw at it, unless a window's open no air will get into the house (aka the filter)... that doesn't mean cut a hole in your JCW intake's top section... because that stock box sucks air UP through the filter then into the turbo... but adding an opening above the filter... you're just adding unfiltered air into your turbo and potentially engine... so that's a no no.
if you want under hood bling, i'd go the M7 route with AGS-R or Super AGS... if you want induction noise, go for an open filter like NM Engineerin's full intake or Alta's intake...
now there are arguments for both closed and open systems, i chose for closed system because that's the kind of driving i do and that's my taste in mods... open filters technically can have more access to air, but that air has possibility for heat soak the longer the car runs (after all the turbo DOES make heat), a closed system doesn't suffer as much but may not have as much air to suck in at lower speeds. so like i said, it's a very "whatever your taste is" deal. lots of the people out there are great developers with great products. i doubt you'd be unhappy however you go.
another route u can go, don't mod your engine, modify your brakes wheels and tires... sometimes if speed is what you're looking for, your car may already be making more than enough power, all you'd need, more grip... that's a simple tire upgrade. but if it's just sound... u saw all the info i have and supplied, which i hope helps... vendors and other intake/bov owners could give you more intel as well...
now on to your points...
1) i honestly don't know.. i'm pretty sure that the DDMWorks street intake would give you more of the "SOUND" u want... open filters tend to do that, OR, if you want to save some money and just want the sound, get an aftermarket BOV that replaces the stock noise maker (now remember there are TWO bovs on the R56... one is right on the turbo which is modified by forge with their bypass valve (this one is the one activated when the car decides to vent boost for traction reasons aka DSC, i wouldn't suggest touching that one, but that's just me....) the other one is the "noise maker", which stems off the cold side boost tube... that just gives some noise after lift off through a diaphram... now what you can do is go for something like Alta's BOV or Helix13's BOV, they both replace the noise maker and have an additional tap that goes under the MAP sensor, it's easy to do and, if you lived close to me, i would even install it for you for nothing, takes all of 20 minutes too... so if you want just the noise of boost, go with BOV route (i have a helix13 bov and am EXTREMELY happy with it...)
2) if you just want more intake ability while keeping the closed and pressurized environment, Alta makes an adaptor to basically put their open air foam filter into the JCW air box... worth looking into... another option is MINI Madness has a similar thing just regular kinda velocity stack filter rather than foam.
3) the DDMWorks air scoop is made to basically work with an open filter or their closed Race intake... reason it wouldn't do anything with your JCW airbox is because it's like pointing a leaf blower at a house at full blast... it doesn't matter how much air you throw at it, unless a window's open no air will get into the house (aka the filter)... that doesn't mean cut a hole in your JCW intake's top section... because that stock box sucks air UP through the filter then into the turbo... but adding an opening above the filter... you're just adding unfiltered air into your turbo and potentially engine... so that's a no no.
if you want under hood bling, i'd go the M7 route with AGS-R or Super AGS... if you want induction noise, go for an open filter like NM Engineerin's full intake or Alta's intake...
now there are arguments for both closed and open systems, i chose for closed system because that's the kind of driving i do and that's my taste in mods... open filters technically can have more access to air, but that air has possibility for heat soak the longer the car runs (after all the turbo DOES make heat), a closed system doesn't suffer as much but may not have as much air to suck in at lower speeds. so like i said, it's a very "whatever your taste is" deal. lots of the people out there are great developers with great products. i doubt you'd be unhappy however you go.
another route u can go, don't mod your engine, modify your brakes wheels and tires... sometimes if speed is what you're looking for, your car may already be making more than enough power, all you'd need, more grip... that's a simple tire upgrade. but if it's just sound... u saw all the info i have and supplied, which i hope helps... vendors and other intake/bov owners could give you more intel as well...
I have a ddm ris and i think its awesome. it feels like i get a quicker throttle response. That being said, I am tired of it. I do mostly city driving and hearing the turbo THAT much is getting a little old. I'm actually looking for someone who has a stage 1 jcw intake to trade with . . . .
I have a ddm street. I have also done a few things to allow more air under the hood and cool the area under the scoop.
I also, recently installed some gauge stuff. In short, what I see on the gauge for intake air temp is:
At highway speed- the warmer the ambient air, the greater the difference between ambient and intake. For instance, at 60 deg ambient, the intake air is about +4 or 5 deg. At 80+deg ambient, the intake air is +8 to 12 deg.
If the car sits at idle, the intake air can be +20 or (much) more degs warmer.
As a result, I have started to rethink the benefit of a cld air intake. I also wonder if the open intake supplies enough additional air to make up for the added heat. I would be curious what temps people with closed intakes get in the same situations. I am sure the engine bay heat adds some heat to the intake air of a closed intake, but would like someone to qualify a bit.
I also, recently installed some gauge stuff. In short, what I see on the gauge for intake air temp is:
At highway speed- the warmer the ambient air, the greater the difference between ambient and intake. For instance, at 60 deg ambient, the intake air is about +4 or 5 deg. At 80+deg ambient, the intake air is +8 to 12 deg.
If the car sits at idle, the intake air can be +20 or (much) more degs warmer.
As a result, I have started to rethink the benefit of a cld air intake. I also wonder if the open intake supplies enough additional air to make up for the added heat. I would be curious what temps people with closed intakes get in the same situations. I am sure the engine bay heat adds some heat to the intake air of a closed intake, but would like someone to qualify a bit.
I've had the DDM Street Intake + ram scoop for about a year now.
I'm selling both (see marketplace) only because I'm deciding to swap to the M7. I've been extremely happy with it, but can't sit still on mods; I like to try new stuff out ... at the expense of my checking account.
I'm selling both (see marketplace) only because I'm deciding to swap to the M7. I've been extremely happy with it, but can't sit still on mods; I like to try new stuff out ... at the expense of my checking account.
I have a ddm street. I have also done a few things to allow more air under the hood and cool the area under the scoop.
I also, recently installed some gauge stuff. In short, what I see on the gauge for intake air temp is:
At highway speed- the warmer the ambient air, the greater the difference between ambient and intake. For instance, at 60 deg ambient, the intake air is about +4 or 5 deg. At 80+deg ambient, the intake air is +8 to 12 deg.
If the car sits at idle, the intake air can be +20 or (much) more degs warmer.
As a result, I have started to rethink the benefit of a cld air intake. I also wonder if the open intake supplies enough additional air to make up for the added heat. I would be curious what temps people with closed intakes get in the same situations. I am sure the engine bay heat adds some heat to the intake air of a closed intake, but would like someone to qualify a bit.
I also, recently installed some gauge stuff. In short, what I see on the gauge for intake air temp is:
At highway speed- the warmer the ambient air, the greater the difference between ambient and intake. For instance, at 60 deg ambient, the intake air is about +4 or 5 deg. At 80+deg ambient, the intake air is +8 to 12 deg.
If the car sits at idle, the intake air can be +20 or (much) more degs warmer.
As a result, I have started to rethink the benefit of a cld air intake. I also wonder if the open intake supplies enough additional air to make up for the added heat. I would be curious what temps people with closed intakes get in the same situations. I am sure the engine bay heat adds some heat to the intake air of a closed intake, but would like someone to qualify a bit.
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Northern Suburbs
I've had the DDM Street Intake + ram scoop for about a year now.
I'm selling both (see marketplace) only because I'm deciding to swap to the M7. I've been extremely happy with it, but can't sit still on mods; I like to try new stuff out ... at the expense of my checking account.
I'm selling both (see marketplace) only because I'm deciding to swap to the M7. I've been extremely happy with it, but can't sit still on mods; I like to try new stuff out ... at the expense of my checking account.
I say your ad on the marketplace
I have a ddm street. I have also done a few things to allow more air under the hood and cool the area under the scoop.
I also, recently installed some gauge stuff. In short, what I see on the gauge for intake air temp is:
At highway speed- the warmer the ambient air, the greater the difference between ambient and intake. For instance, at 60 deg ambient, the intake air is about +4 or 5 deg. At 80+deg ambient, the intake air is +8 to 12 deg.
If the car sits at idle, the intake air can be +20 or (much) more degs warmer.
As a result, I have started to rethink the benefit of a cld air intake. I also wonder if the open intake supplies enough additional air to make up for the added heat. I would be curious what temps people with closed intakes get in the same situations. I am sure the engine bay heat adds some heat to the intake air of a closed intake, but would like someone to qualify a bit.
I also, recently installed some gauge stuff. In short, what I see on the gauge for intake air temp is:
At highway speed- the warmer the ambient air, the greater the difference between ambient and intake. For instance, at 60 deg ambient, the intake air is about +4 or 5 deg. At 80+deg ambient, the intake air is +8 to 12 deg.
If the car sits at idle, the intake air can be +20 or (much) more degs warmer.
As a result, I have started to rethink the benefit of a cld air intake. I also wonder if the open intake supplies enough additional air to make up for the added heat. I would be curious what temps people with closed intakes get in the same situations. I am sure the engine bay heat adds some heat to the intake air of a closed intake, but would like someone to qualify a bit.
Under heavy load it goes up to about 5-5 drgress above ambient then quickly returns to 1-2 dgrees above ambient temperature.
When raining I, on occasion see the air inlet temperature 1 degree below ambient.
I have the DDM Works, and personally I love it and the sound it makes is great, great throttle response, have had no problem with the significant rain problem here in Miami, jeje.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uzk-ykKOxTY
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