Drivetrain BMW Installation Tool for Crank Pulley Failed
#1
BMW Installation Tool for Crank Pulley Failed
Well here is the story of my installation of my 05 crank pulley onto my 02 MCS.
Bought all of the tools except the holder tool, which I made using scrap metal in my shop. I bought the BMW crank installation tool new from the dealer thinking that it would make the job easier. I started off taking the belt off using the BMW tool to relieving the tensioner. That work great. Next I use the my home made holder tool and the back off the bolt. Easy enough. I inserted the crank protection insert and used the pulley puller tool from BMW and that worked great.
Then the almost disaster happened. I screwed in the pulley installation tool and I thought I was almost done. As I used the tool it got progressively harder to turn, which was normal. Then it got almost impossible to turn. I backed off the bolt that is used to pull the pulley onto the crank stub. I noticed that the bolt had crunched the so called bearing that was not supposed to turn while the bolt turns. The end of the bolt had passed the plane of bearing and now was creating a groove in my 05 crank pulley. Crap! I also noticed that the end that goes into the crank stub was stuck in there and was not budging. More Crap I calmed down. I thought and after putting together a plan with my friend, we went to the hardware store.
We bought hardened washers, bolts that mated to the M12 X 1 pitch bolts. One washer was used to be in between the bolt and the bearing on the installation tool, since the two fell apart after I freed them up in a vice and vice grips. So we completed pulling the pulley onto the crank stub and done.
The next step was to remove the stuck installation shaft that was screwed into the stub. I backed off the bolt, washer and bearing and to my relief it came off. Then we inspected the flat part where the bolt would rest on. As I stated earlier, the tool had gouged a groove in the surface and now the bolt had a compromised landing. So we went back to the hardware store and found a harded SAE washer that was slightly larger in diameter to spread the load better and create a flat landing for the bolt. I cranked her on and torqued to 85 FT LBS and it worked
Warning to you guys and girls that use this BMW installation tool. Go get a hardened washer and place it between the tool and the new pulley. This will give you the needed buffer just in case the tool fails.
Hope this helps you guys and girls out if you intend to do this. Working on cars is fun, but I guess this stuff is part of the adventure that we call wrenching.
Bought all of the tools except the holder tool, which I made using scrap metal in my shop. I bought the BMW crank installation tool new from the dealer thinking that it would make the job easier. I started off taking the belt off using the BMW tool to relieving the tensioner. That work great. Next I use the my home made holder tool and the back off the bolt. Easy enough. I inserted the crank protection insert and used the pulley puller tool from BMW and that worked great.
Then the almost disaster happened. I screwed in the pulley installation tool and I thought I was almost done. As I used the tool it got progressively harder to turn, which was normal. Then it got almost impossible to turn. I backed off the bolt that is used to pull the pulley onto the crank stub. I noticed that the bolt had crunched the so called bearing that was not supposed to turn while the bolt turns. The end of the bolt had passed the plane of bearing and now was creating a groove in my 05 crank pulley. Crap! I also noticed that the end that goes into the crank stub was stuck in there and was not budging. More Crap I calmed down. I thought and after putting together a plan with my friend, we went to the hardware store.
We bought hardened washers, bolts that mated to the M12 X 1 pitch bolts. One washer was used to be in between the bolt and the bearing on the installation tool, since the two fell apart after I freed them up in a vice and vice grips. So we completed pulling the pulley onto the crank stub and done.
The next step was to remove the stuck installation shaft that was screwed into the stub. I backed off the bolt, washer and bearing and to my relief it came off. Then we inspected the flat part where the bolt would rest on. As I stated earlier, the tool had gouged a groove in the surface and now the bolt had a compromised landing. So we went back to the hardware store and found a harded SAE washer that was slightly larger in diameter to spread the load better and create a flat landing for the bolt. I cranked her on and torqued to 85 FT LBS and it worked
Warning to you guys and girls that use this BMW installation tool. Go get a hardened washer and place it between the tool and the new pulley. This will give you the needed buffer just in case the tool fails.
Hope this helps you guys and girls out if you intend to do this. Working on cars is fun, but I guess this stuff is part of the adventure that we call wrenching.
#2
#3
#4
The later model damper requires an adaptor for extraction and model specific installation kit. Although the early model installer will work on the later model damper (I've done it) it falls short of the later model installer. The later model tool bolt is longer with more threads on the shaft that allow the bearing to go further without bottoming, and the bearing has a larger OD.
Also, the installer's bearings and bolt threads require lubrication, I find moly/graphite assembly lube and ARP lube work better than bearing grease to prevent binding, and anti-seize will do the job if you're not prepared with the proper lube. I apply fresh lube before each install or extraction to make the job easier.
Also, the installer's bearings and bolt threads require lubrication, I find moly/graphite assembly lube and ARP lube work better than bearing grease to prevent binding, and anti-seize will do the job if you're not prepared with the proper lube. I apply fresh lube before each install or extraction to make the job easier.
Last edited by k-huevo; 05-17-2009 at 12:07 AM. Reason: add photos
#5
k-huevo,
I used the older version to install the 05 crank pulley. The newer looks a lot more robust. I would still use a washer at the end to make sure just in case the bearing fails. Do you know the part number for the new adapter for the extration tool for the 05 pulley? Do you know of any that someone wants to sell? How much is the extration tool and installation tool?
I used the older version to install the 05 crank pulley. The newer looks a lot more robust. I would still use a washer at the end to make sure just in case the bearing fails. Do you know the part number for the new adapter for the extration tool for the 05 pulley? Do you know of any that someone wants to sell? How much is the extration tool and installation tool?
#6
Where in the heck can you find a MINI crank shaft pulley installation tool? I have contacted two separate MINI dealers, but they tell that they do not sell them, and they couldn't steer me in the right direction. I have looked everywhere on-line, to no avail.
I have tried using some 12mm studding (which is hard to find in the proper length), and being of cheap Chinese material it actually stretched on me while pressing on the pulley.
I just want to get my MINI back on the road again. HELP!!!
I have tried using some 12mm studding (which is hard to find in the proper length), and being of cheap Chinese material it actually stretched on me while pressing on the pulley.
I just want to get my MINI back on the road again. HELP!!!
#7
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I went to my local Autozone and rented a removal tool today. Had to purchase some 6m studs at a local hardware store but it worked just fine.
Had a little trouble getting it off at first ratcheting it off so we switched to a puller that had a long shaft with a metal slider on it that gave it some umff.
Had a little trouble getting it off at first ratcheting it off so we switched to a puller that had a long shaft with a metal slider on it that gave it some umff.
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#8
I went to my local Autozone and rented a removal tool today. Had to purchase some 6m studs at a local hardware store but it worked just fine.
Had a little trouble getting it off at first ratcheting it off so we switched to a puller that had a long shaft with a metal slider on it that gave it some umff.
Had a little trouble getting it off at first ratcheting it off so we switched to a puller that had a long shaft with a metal slider on it that gave it some umff.
It is a single 12mm stud with a bearing and a nut on one end. There is a photo of it in this thread.
Thanks!
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