Drivetrain before & after dyno's with unichip
before & after dyno's with unichip
OK, well I attempted to install the unichip this past week, but to my best efforts I was not willing to pull on the nearest plug to get enough slack to plug in one of the ECU's pin connectors. I was told "pull" on in, and did so (without using what in my mind was excessive force) and just couldnt get it out enough. So I took it and my car over to Dynocomp to get it installed expertly, AND to see what real world numbers this thing can provide. 
I pull up and want to get a baseline of what the car is stock. Mind you fols that this is a dynomometer (which I guess is the best dyno, providing real world "underload" results). Also, its pretty damn hot here in phoenix was proabably mid 90's when this was done, but I pulled max 155hp & 170tq..
then came (what I thought would be quick & easy) the install. Mind you these guys do this day-in day-out on customer cars & race cars. Thinking would be 30-45 mins turns into 1 hr & 30 mins. Yes they ran into the same damn issue I did with getting enough slack on the ecu plug closest to the front of the engine. They had to remove the fuse holder, dig way down into the engine, cut a few wire holders then forcefully pull the wires up. There was no way I would have done that, they were even unsure about doing that, but it ended up alright (so far
)... Anways, they finally get everything back together then fire it up for the dyno runs (they do 3-4 runs to get a good measurement)...... CEL, damn!! So they get two codes (I think 177 & 175
). They clear them and redo it again. I guess they had to clear them 2x. I tell them to try switching to the 0 map. After a few tries I guess they finally got some good runs in and pulled a best 165hp & 195tq! 
Anyways, I am really worried about the CEL, I ran it home in the 1 position, then I switched it to the 1 position, have driven about 10 miles with no issues (CEL). I will let you know what comes up. But I can defiantely tell a big difference from stock to the unichip..

I pull up and want to get a baseline of what the car is stock. Mind you fols that this is a dynomometer (which I guess is the best dyno, providing real world "underload" results). Also, its pretty damn hot here in phoenix was proabably mid 90's when this was done, but I pulled max 155hp & 170tq..
then came (what I thought would be quick & easy) the install. Mind you these guys do this day-in day-out on customer cars & race cars. Thinking would be 30-45 mins turns into 1 hr & 30 mins. Yes they ran into the same damn issue I did with getting enough slack on the ecu plug closest to the front of the engine. They had to remove the fuse holder, dig way down into the engine, cut a few wire holders then forcefully pull the wires up. There was no way I would have done that, they were even unsure about doing that, but it ended up alright (so far
)... Anways, they finally get everything back together then fire it up for the dyno runs (they do 3-4 runs to get a good measurement)...... CEL, damn!! So they get two codes (I think 177 & 175
). They clear them and redo it again. I guess they had to clear them 2x. I tell them to try switching to the 0 map. After a few tries I guess they finally got some good runs in and pulled a best 165hp & 195tq! Anyways, I am really worried about the CEL, I ran it home in the 1 position, then I switched it to the 1 position, have driven about 10 miles with no issues (CEL). I will let you know what comes up. But I can defiantely tell a big difference from stock to the unichip..
I did about 165 hp and 196 ft-lbs to the wheels on that same dyno at DynoComp. Stock...
The UniChip continues to unimpress me....
With all the connection troubles, CEL's, harness issues, in ability to run it on Map 1 without throwing codes.....I don't know why people continue to try and use them. Much better options are on the very near horizon....hold out people!
The UniChip continues to unimpress me....
With all the connection troubles, CEL's, harness issues, in ability to run it on Map 1 without throwing codes.....I don't know why people continue to try and use them. Much better options are on the very near horizon....hold out people!
- gained anywhere from 15-25hp from 3500rpm to 5500
- gained 15-25 (a max) from 2800rpm to 5000
sounds like your car is pretty damn strong right off the block (did you have the mods listed in your sig at the time), but consider the following I gained:
- gained anywhere from 15-25hp from 3500rpm to 5500
- gained 15-25 (a max) from 2800rpm to 5000
Ya, you're deltas are decent, but I don't know, just doesn't seem worth it to me...to constantly wonder "am I going to have a CEL today??"
But hey, if you're happy, then thats all that matter man!
Enjoy the your new found power!
yes, I worry about it, but glad I know its easy to remove if I find its more of a problem. If so I will work on returning it (I know it was installed correctly, so that wouldnt be the issue). Also found out that Richard has a program for the R56-55 if this one becomes a nuisance, I will switch to his. Praying I have no problems
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Comparing dyno runs of different cars on different dynos doesn't say much. You can only really get useful information from the dyno by dynoing the same car on the same dyno before and after modification.
yes, I worry about it, but glad I know its easy to remove if I find its more of a problem. If so I will work on returning it (I know it was installed correctly, so that wouldnt be the issue). Also found out that Richard has a program for the R56-55 if this one becomes a nuisance, I will switch to his. Praying I have no problems
No one I know has gotten it yet though, so I'd really be interested to see how it is!
very true, need to be same dyno, same day/conditions etc...
When cars are dyno tuned it's pretty normal to flash the ECU, then run the car again right after. There's no driving in between.
I thought Thumper said his car was on the same dyno as the OP?
I have had three cars with piggybacks and those companies have all stated to drive the car a few miles before you get the full effects. It's just a piggyback not a ECU re flash were the maps are directly changed the piggy needs to fool the car to change those maps. That doesn't happen instantly.
OK, well I attempted to install the unichip this past week, but to my best efforts I was not willing to pull on the nearest plug to get enough slack to plug in one of the ECU's pin connectors. I was told "pull" on in, and did so (without using what in my mind was excessive force) and just couldnt get it out enough. So I took it and my car over to Dynocomp to get it installed expertly, AND to see what real world numbers this thing can provide. 
I pull up and want to get a baseline of what the car is stock. Mind you fols that this is a dynomometer (which I guess is the best dyno, providing real world "underload" results). Also, its pretty damn hot here in phoenix was proabably mid 90's when this was done, but I pulled max 155hp & 170tq..
then came (what I thought would be quick & easy) the install. Mind you these guys do this day-in day-out on customer cars & race cars. Thinking would be 30-45 mins turns into 1 hr & 30 mins. Yes they ran into the same damn issue I did with getting enough slack on the ecu plug closest to the front of the engine. They had to remove the fuse holder, dig way down into the engine, cut a few wire holders then forcefully pull the wires up. There was no way I would have done that, they were even unsure about doing that, but it ended up alright (so far
)... Anways, they finally get everything back together then fire it up for the dyno runs (they do 3-4 runs to get a good measurement)...... CEL, damn!! So they get two codes (I think 177 & 175
). They clear them and redo it again. I guess they had to clear them 2x. I tell them to try switching to the 0 map. After a few tries I guess they finally got some good runs in and pulled a best 165hp & 195tq! 
Anyways, I am really worried about the CEL, I ran it home in the 1 position, then I switched it to the 1 position, have driven about 10 miles with no issues (CEL). I will let you know what comes up. But I can defiantely tell a big difference from stock to the unichip..

I pull up and want to get a baseline of what the car is stock. Mind you fols that this is a dynomometer (which I guess is the best dyno, providing real world "underload" results). Also, its pretty damn hot here in phoenix was proabably mid 90's when this was done, but I pulled max 155hp & 170tq..
then came (what I thought would be quick & easy) the install. Mind you these guys do this day-in day-out on customer cars & race cars. Thinking would be 30-45 mins turns into 1 hr & 30 mins. Yes they ran into the same damn issue I did with getting enough slack on the ecu plug closest to the front of the engine. They had to remove the fuse holder, dig way down into the engine, cut a few wire holders then forcefully pull the wires up. There was no way I would have done that, they were even unsure about doing that, but it ended up alright (so far
)... Anways, they finally get everything back together then fire it up for the dyno runs (they do 3-4 runs to get a good measurement)...... CEL, damn!! So they get two codes (I think 177 & 175
). They clear them and redo it again. I guess they had to clear them 2x. I tell them to try switching to the 0 map. After a few tries I guess they finally got some good runs in and pulled a best 165hp & 195tq! Anyways, I am really worried about the CEL, I ran it home in the 1 position, then I switched it to the 1 position, have driven about 10 miles with no issues (CEL). I will let you know what comes up. But I can defiantely tell a big difference from stock to the unichip..

YEs and no. It does work for alot of guys and it also doesn't work for a lot of guys. I really hope that this V4 harness works and solves the problem that some guys have. Instead of 50/50, we would like to see 99/1 working!
I bet a Dynojet dyno? But either way, all the cars are running higher than they are supposed to. Which is good!
Why would the ECU need to "Learn" anything. The whole point of a unichip is that it fools the ECU by sending it false signals. Unless the adaptive learning algorithms were reset for some reason there would be no reason to drive the car 10-15 miles.
When cars are dyno tuned it's pretty normal to flash the ECU, then run the car again right after. There's no driving in between.
I thought Thumper said his car was on the same dyno as the OP?
When cars are dyno tuned it's pretty normal to flash the ECU, then run the car again right after. There's no driving in between.
I thought Thumper said his car was on the same dyno as the OP?


I know I'm not the only one that shares this feeling, so I feel completely justified in saying it.
If all this time, research, money, brain power, and energy to fix the WorthlessChip, would be focused on trying to come out with a proper, full ECU flash/tune we might be getting somewhere in the R56 tuning world. 
I know I'm not the only one that shares this feeling, so I feel completely justified in saying it.

I know I'm not the only one that shares this feeling, so I feel completely justified in saying it.
Right now I'd be weary of gambling with a device that's gonna increase your boost upwards of 20lbs and not work properly.
I definitely think you (ALTA) at this point would forget UNICHIP and make your own tune.
I purchased a unichip a month ago but have yet to install it.. Is there any 'tuning' needed to get the most? Or can I just plop it in and it really is just plug & play? I can try to install it myself, or bring it to a local speedshop to get it installed, dynoed, and tuned.
Actually Alta uses the UnChip to deliver their own custom tuning map. So they are doing their own tune.
And as odd as this sounds from me... The jury is still out on exactly what the true issue is with the remapping of this engine. Alta seems to believe it is solely the wiring harness.
The truth is whenever you push the design limits be prepared to have to deal with problems.
so far this week, NO issues, NO CEL's (knock on wood) and I have been running the "1" map from Alta. I can definitely tell a difference, this chip delivers as promised
.
If all this time, research, money, brain power, and energy to fix the WorthlessChip, would be focused on trying to come out with a proper, full ECU flash/tune we might be getting somewhere in the R56 tuning world. 
I know I'm not the only one that shares this feeling, so I feel completely justified in saying it.

I know I'm not the only one that shares this feeling, so I feel completely justified in saying it.
.................................................. .................................................. ........................
................................. so when that happens we will let you know, trust me.
I purchased a unichip a month ago but have yet to install it.. Is there any 'tuning' needed to get the most? Or can I just plop it in and it really is just plug & play? I can try to install it myself, or bring it to a local speedshop to get it installed, dynoed, and tuned.
If it ours you can just install and go for it!
Actually Alta uses the UnChip to deliver their own custom tuning map. So they are doing their own tune.
And as odd as this sounds from me... The jury is still out on exactly what the true issue is with the remapping of this engine. Alta seems to believe it is solely the wiring harness.
The truth is whenever you push the design limits be prepared to have to deal with problems.
And as odd as this sounds from me... The jury is still out on exactly what the true issue is with the remapping of this engine. Alta seems to believe it is solely the wiring harness.
The truth is whenever you push the design limits be prepared to have to deal with problems.
Awesome!
We think that you all are .................................................. .................................................. ..............................
.................................................. .................................................. ........................
................................. so when that happens we will let you know, trust me.
.................................................. .................................................. ........................
................................. so when that happens we will let you know, trust me.
For what it's worth, I have been running the Alta mapped UniChip for a couple of months and a couple of thousand miles now with NO CELS on either map 0 or map 1. The install is a little hairier than it should be due to the tension that has to be applied to that one VERY tight cable, but I managed to get it done in about 30 minutes even without the R56 installation instructions.
Just my .02, your mileage may vary....
Richard
Just my .02, your mileage may vary....
Richard


