From searching around, it was quite difficult to locate all the info I needed for this so I am creating this to consolidate Info.

Install How-To:

There is a great How-To by k-huevo
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...52#post1451152

Also...
http://engr.smu.edu/rcam/cpm3v/minic...niclutch01.htm

Bearings:

As of now I believe you need two of these



They are part number LM501349, available for $15.49 each from your local Napa. Remember you need two (2) for the install.

IMO - Places to Buy:

As of 7/18/08 I know that JSCspeed is selling them at a good price, info at their group buy https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=131285

Cost of Install:

The general consensus is that it will cost roughly $500-900 to have this installed, therefore it is a good idea to bundle this work with a Clutch and Flywheel

It cost me roughly $40 to have the bearings pressed on at a local body shop

FAQ:
What is the difference between an OEM LSD and a Quaife LSD?
DSC on/off with Quaife?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ghlight=Quaife

Some other Links
LSD/Clutch/Lightweight Flywheel
Tranny Fluid
Other LSD

 

another timely thread for me. i have the quaiffe, lightend flywheel and stage 4 (6-puck) clutch ready to go in next week. i reviewed the linked threads (most of which i had previously read entirely). i will report my feedback as soon as it is done. NVH issues may be a bit clouded as i'm also adding poly lower engine and trans mounts. turn up the HK! nice thread start.

 

Thanks for quoting

Here's another tip.

Change the front wishbone rubbers for PU (Powerflex) ones while the subframe is dropped. The original ones do not hold long under spirited driving.

Mine looked like this


And the new ones:




The Quaife does very well on the bumpy Nurburgring.
Here is my 20th lap ever, under 9 min. BTG. I hope to get to 8.30 when I know the track better.
I've put some corners on the video for the ones that do not know the Nurburgring

http://www.r53.nl/player_hd.php?id=12

 

Thanks for sharing your crystal clear video 2BeeMini2!

Just bake the diff bearings at 350 F for 20 minutes and they'll slide right on!

Jeremy

 

Okay, this is a good source of info - although it seems that those with the quaife are in relatively short supply on here.

For the bearings this is what jsc speed says: When replacing your OEM open differential you will need to replace the bearings as well. One of each of the cup and cone is needed when installing the Quaife ATB LSD.

So I ordered one cup and one cone - is this right or do I need two of each?

Thanks for the info - looks like the few on here with this mod need to feed off each other since there isn't a vast amount of information.

 

You need to order 2 sets. This is what I was telling AZBLACKOUT all day... You deffo need 1 set but the thing is....as soon as you pry out the old *** bearing from the other side its gonna fall apart. Plus, why gamble with a 1600 Quaife for a 20 dolla bearing...

 

Ideally you should replace the bearing and it's outer race. So you would have 2 bearings(tapered rollers with inner race and cage as per photo up top from OP) and 2 outer races that you would re and re from your flywheel housing and your trans housing. All that equates to starting fresh and fresh is ideal!

BTW for my OBX ATB diff, I only bought and installed the 2 tapered roller bearings to mate up with the 2 stock outer races in flywheel and trans housings. It's working fine for me.

Jeremy

Flywheel housing showing stock outer race for diff bearing(far right biggie hole).

 

Here's the trans housing's outer race for diff bearing with the output shaft seal beneath. I replaced them as it's super easy to do while you're there.


Jeremy

 

thanks for the input. i just checked the two boxes that jsc sent w/ my diff and one of the boxes contained only the race w/ the tapered bearing missing. the inside plastic sleeve had been opened. since the box was labeled "do not remove bearing until ready for assembly", i didn't. glad i checked now.

 

Okay so Install happened yesterday...I used 2 bearings and no races. The races that were already in place seemed 'in there' enough that we decided not to replace and score up the inner tranny. Any thoughts?

I got the same recomendation from JSC, and I ended up going out and buying another set. I suggest you atleast get 2 roller bearings.

 

Okay, so just to make sure before I order another set - I need one more tapered bearing cup and one more tapered bearing cone, correct?

Here's a link to the JSC page with it if you need to see what I'm talking about:

http://www.jscspeed.com/mini/clutch/quaife_lsd.htm

 

Motogeno, yes if you're going for the fresh feel then you need 2 tapered rollers and two outer races. So 2 of bduLM501349 and 2 of bduLM501310. Have fun!

Jeremy

 

Thank you for explaining so well

Results:
The quaife is an amazing feel coming through and out of turns. As of now, babying a new clutch, getting a feel for it, and slowly understanding the quaife, i am sure I haven't even seen the half of the potential. When I put coilovers and a 25.5 RS I felt a huge difference in handling ability, this is much the same when it comes to the twisties

BTW, this babying and no hard shifting sucks! I just got my A handed to me by an SI. no bueno. I just hope that the FX300 is worth the wait...cause its seems slow and painful right now. Cant wait for MTTS LA, ill have the 500 in by then

IMO, when you have to do a clutch...go aftermarket...do a flywheel as well. The trick is forseeing the need for a clutch before it slips, planning the money, and def. doing a Quaife or atleast an LSD while your already knee deep in modding. Coming from an 03, with 98,500 on the stock clutch...amazing. loud, and troublesome, but amazing. Also, In my experience, bundling big items with a single vendor usually means DISCOUNTS!!! Therefore you save money and time if you do it right the first time.

 

Well I didn't have the money to do an aftermarket clutch and flywheel, so I'm getting a new clutch and flywheel under warranty as I've been having a bit of wookie noise! That's why I'm doing the quaife, since they'll be in there already for the clutch. What's the break in for the quaife, and also for a stock clutch? Thanks!

 

One more question (although apparently no one had an answer for my previous questions about break in on factory clutch, flywheel, and quaife) - I read khuevo's thread but am still a little unclear about what I need to get as a sealant or gasket for the quaife if any. Thanks for the info - sorry for all of the questions but this job is bigger than I'm qualified to do myself and want to be able to provide everything needed for my install guy. Thanks,

 

AZBLACKOUT is at MTTS so Ill answer...lol. He used anerobic sealant to mate the case 1/2's. And I overheard 500-100 miles for break in. There is a sheet that tells you about it in the clutchmasters kit (for the clutch). as far as the Quaife...Im sure just a few hundred miles of easy goin would be fine. And the hardest part is pulling the tranny out. the diy's provide an excellent job of a how-to. If you can pull the subframe down and the tranny out...the quaife is easy....

 

Permatex Ultra Black is doing the job for me with no leaks after 2500 miles.



Jeremy

 

Thanks for answering my questions - I thought that I had read somewhere that the aftermarket clutches, particularly with kevlar, requires more break in than organic material in a factory clutch so this was the reason for my question. I wouldn't be in a hurry to finish the break in but I'm an autocrosser and I'm hoping that I'll have it in for the next one (and hopefully going 2 - 3 seconds faster!)

 

Did the trick, no leaks after 1000+ miles. Highly suggest getting some Redline Fluid for the tranny, makes everything feel smoother, and for the 25+ bucks, change it out every 25-30k

 

What tranny fluid is recommended - couldn't find redline in my local area but I read on another post that Royal Purple recommended 5w30 engine oil (same as the motor?). Is this right? If not, what do you suggest?