Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Torque specifications for the rear subframe?

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Old Jul 27, 2003 | 09:24 AM
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I finally got my version "C" sway bar back from Madness and have begun to tear into the dissassembly of the rear subframe. Does anyone know what the torque specs are for all the parts involved (subframe, upper/lower shock, swaybar mounts, etc.) during reassembly?


 
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Old Jul 27, 2003 | 03:08 PM
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Hey come on guys.... What gives? Will someone please tell me what the specs are?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2003 | 03:10 PM
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What does MINI Madness say they should be torqued to?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2003 | 03:17 PM
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They didn't in their instructions and neither does Randy's how to's.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2003 | 03:29 PM
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Bummerroo.

Maybe a call on Monday to a mechanic at a MINI dealer will get you the answer.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2003 | 05:44 PM
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in the discussion attatched to Randy's how-to, someone listed the torque for the sub frame bolts at 100nm. 56nm for the drop links, and something like 18nm for the sway bar brackets. I can't remember that one off the top of my head, but I know at least one guy stripped the hole in the sub frame, so be careful.


 
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Old Jul 27, 2003 | 05:54 PM
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I cross-threaded my sway-bar bushing mounts (ok, just one hole) so BE CAREFUL.

I'm also a firm believer in the "torqued enough" do-it-by-feel kinda system. The bigger the bolt, the more torque Not exactly precise, but hey, niether were ANY of the bolts and my car The system is rather representative of a general curve of accuracy, perhaps the tolerances are a bit dramatic

ok, enough blabber, just go do it. Feel the torque of the bolt coming off, and re-torque it to a similar feel.

Enjoy....carefullly,
Ryan
 
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Old Jul 27, 2003 | 07:27 PM
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If you desire a coversion to ft lbs, you might want to check MINI2 as I think obehave and someone else did so in at least one thread...

Oh, Ryephile did you damage the bolt itself or the threads in the frame? My guess is the bolt. In such instances, the bolts are usually made softer than the other material so such a misguide would make reparations not costly or time-consuming...

I sort of did the same on a rear control arm. I still don't know how! I'm assuming it's the bolt and ordered another for $2.55. I should find-out soon enough...


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Old Jul 27, 2003 | 07:43 PM
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Here are the torque values in nm & ft/lbs from a previous thread;

"Here are the torque specs for the rear swaybar replacement.

The (2) 13mm upper strut bolts. (86nm or 63ft/lbs)
The (4) 16mm sub-frame bolts. (100nm or 73ft/lbs)
The (2) 13mm swaybar clamp bolts. (19nm or 14ft/lbs)
The (1) 16mm drop-link nut. (56nm or 41ft/lbs)"


 
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Old Jul 27, 2003 | 08:00 PM
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>>They didn't in their instructions and neither does Randy's how to's.
8ball

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Posts: 1216
Oct 2002 Posted: Jan 15, 2003 - 11:15 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>No need for torque specs. Just crank till you can't crank no more.
>>
... but if you feel like it ...
the clamps to the subframe - 19nm
bar to trailing arm and link to bar - 56nm Sway bar how to

19 nm= 14.01 foot pounds
56 nm= 41.30 foot pounds

Converter
 
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Old Jul 28, 2003 | 04:39 AM
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>> Here are the torque values in nm & ft/lbs from a previous thread;
>>
>>"Here are the torque specs for the rear swaybar replacement.
>>
>>The (2) 13mm upper strut bolts. (86nm or 63ft/lbs)
>>The (4) 16mm sub-frame bolts. (100nm or 73ft/lbs)
>>The (2) 13mm swaybar clamp bolts. (19nm or 14ft/lbs)
>>The (1) 16mm drop-link nut. (56nm or 41ft/lbs)"
>>
>>

Thank you very very much
 
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