Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Pulley or Wheels?

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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 08:22 PM
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Pulley or Wheels?

Not to be a doofus, not sure which will provide more bang for the buck?

'06 MCS, 24K miles, Helix CAI, Invidia exhaust, Schrader RSD, TSW Damper, Wet Okoles, tint, Viper alarm, V1, as you can see I'm trying to ratchet up zing and bling in nearly equal measure, and it's time for some zing.

It's a daily driver, and I do track days about quarterly, spirited roads monthly, no auto-x, just not my thing.

Was going to wait on the pulley till it comes out of warranty, and the Potenzas are worn out, so need tires. Do I have Dan at Grassroots Garage slap a 15 or 16% pulley/belt/plugs on, or do I get a wheel/tire package from Alex at TireRack or somebody?

I know, do both, sorry, remodeling the house, going on a junket to Vegas, annual bonus sucks this year, it's one or the other for now...

Thanks for your input, either "wheels", "pulley" or a lecture about why I don't really need plugs or something, it's all welcome, I crave attention!
 
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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 08:31 PM
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Pulley is definitely a better bang for the buck.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 08:31 PM
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I did my pulley first. Its a lot cheaper than wheels and tires. If you do it yourself its only about $150, or if you have a shop do it $350- $450. I couldn't afford wheels at the time so I did the pulley/ plugs and intake.

Good luck.

Nik
 
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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 08:41 PM
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Hmmm... looks like you have a little problem. well you need to consider which is a nessesity? you posted that your tire need to be replaced. if thats the case whats the point of having the "Zing" in your car if your tires are no good. but if you can get away with it I'd also suggest the pully system, but make sure you get everything associated with that pulley: the belt (you may as well repalce it while the car is apart), the software, and anything else that will make your ride run better. I went with the Dinan S package and its been a hell of a ride since then. it will run you a little less than the JCW boost package.

choose wisely my friend

Joser
 
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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 08:37 AM
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Dave,

Get Dan to do the pulley. You know he does really good work. I would not go more than a 15% reduction. I also went a step colder on the plugs than stock. Dan has the JCW units. I went with Denso Iridiums. Dan makes a good argument for the JCW plugs. I went with a Helix pulley. I just prefer them to the Craven units Dan sells. Thats just me. He can get both. Dan also has the shorter belt to go with the pulley.

The pulley will definitely give you more zing. I have a brand new Unichip unit that I want to sell. I need new tires and wheels for my Coop. I am hanging the tail out a lot more than I would like in the wet. My run-flats are on the nubs, so I need to raise some cash and get some tires pronto. It is laready tuned for all your mods if you decide to go with the Pulley.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 09:57 AM
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Pulley! Amazing difference, no doubt.

-Cody
 
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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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pulley = performance
wheels = less performance (if you buy lightweight wheels) and more bling
your choice
 
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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 05:52 PM
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By dropping a considerable amount of weight in selecting the right wheels and tires, you can improve more aspects of performance (acceleration, braking, handling) with wheels versus a pulley. Pulley = Straightline acceleration improvement only, although it will likely give you better results in that area than lighter wheels.

I chose the wheel/tires route first. Pulley will be sometime down the road for me...
 
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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 07:20 PM
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I'm generally not a fan of increasing power levels until you know how to use the power you currently have...

Wheels/tires were my very first 'upgrade'.

- Matt
 
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Old Feb 16, 2008 | 08:56 PM
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Pulley.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 12:06 AM
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Pulley is cheaper. Actually is very cheap if you mount it by yourself. Few 10 bucks.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 07:30 AM
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Pulley is cheap for straight-line acceleration.

Lighter wheels improve all aspects of performance, for more money. You will get measurably faster acceleration, better braking, lots better adhesion in bumpy corners, and a much less jolting ride.

On my S, I replaced the stock wheels and tires with 9 lb. wheels before even picking up the car.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by OldRick
Pulley is cheap for straight-line acceleration.

Lighter wheels improve all aspects of performance, for more money. You will get measurably faster acceleration, better braking, lots better adhesion in bumpy corners, and a much less jolting ride.

On my S, I replaced the stock wheels and tires with 9 lb. wheels before even picking up the car.
Yes but you can get the pulley for 50-100 USD the good lightweight wheels are much more expensive.

If you have 1000 USD for wheels you have 100 for the pulley too. So take both of that and you will do your best.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 10:40 AM
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Yeah, the pulley is nic (I have 15%), but I'd say lightweight wheels and good tires.... like the above poster said, it affects all aspects of performance as opposed to the pulley which is just horsepower. Remember, unsprung weight is the best weight to reduce. Also, I'm assuming you're on stock runflats, which, to put nicely... suck horribly.

Keep us posted as to what you do and good luck!
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by OldRick
Pulley is cheap for straight-line acceleration.

Lighter wheels improve all aspects of performance, for more money. You will get measurably faster acceleration, better braking, lots better adhesion in bumpy corners, and a much less jolting ride.

On my S, I replaced the stock wheels and tires with 9 lbs wheels before even picking up the car.
what kind of wheels were they?
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 05:13 PM
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Thanks for all the great posts, folks, and thanks for not flaming me. ;-)

Should have been more explicit, HAVE to put tires on. I'm really debating wheels v. pulley.

I'm thinking about a compromise of sorts, GY Eagle F1 GS-D3s on stock V spoke X lites, (I think that's what I have ;-0 ), and the pulley, put on by Dan, I can't turn a wrench, and I'm a HP junkie. I came out a "built" 5.0 'stang vert to the MINI and I sure miss the torque, although that's the only thing!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 01:07 AM
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The stock X lites aren't so heavy.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 02:08 AM
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do the pulley and get some new 100 dollar tires. No need to spend more than that.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 04:52 AM
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Dave, knowing how you like to drive, and that you're a power junkie from way back when... you'll get a much bigger grin outta the pulley... it's night and day....
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 06:15 AM
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My take:

A pulley is the biggest bang for the buck mod for the MINI. Once installed you will ask yourself why you waited so long to do it.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 07:56 AM
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All of the stock MINI wheels are over 18 lbs. (corrected), and run up to 28 lbs. Heavy.

My 9 lb. wheels are SSR Comps, 7"x15" from the Tire Rack. Not too costly, and I've had no problems with them.

If you are spending money, you can also reduce unsprung weight by upgrading brakes. My Wilwood kit shaves off another 11 lbs, for a total of 59 lbs. less outboard, rotating, unsprung weight vs. stock.

One consideration if you upgrade your wheels and tires is that the manufacturer may not have the exact same style wheel available for replacement at some time in the future, if you damage a wheel. I bought a fifth wheel, to avoid this becoming a problem.

And, finally, wheels and tires will not violate your warranty, while a pulley probably will, if your dealer is not one of the helpful variety.
 

Last edited by OldRick; Feb 18, 2008 at 04:29 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 08:07 AM
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I have a set of Holies I plan to use for track days. They weigh in at 12 pounds. Although they are only 15" x 5.5.

Most oem MINI wheels would work well as boat anchors.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 10:43 AM
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Guys, you've lead me to the "best" solution.

I just talked to the Discount Tire "down the street" and they're putting on the GY F1s, and Dan, "up the road" and he's putting a 15% pulley, belt and colder plugs on 3/12.

Then, after I can pilfer some more money without the wifey noticing, I'll get some 15" wheels (Holies?) and way sticky tires for track days and REALLY rock! ;-) I just don't like the look of 15 inchers for my daily driver--personal taste, of course!

Thanks to all...
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by OldRick
All of the stock MINI wheels are over 21 lbs., and run up to 28 lbs.

My 9 lb. wheels are SSR Comps, 7"x15" from the Tire Rack. Not too costly, and I've had no problems with them.

If you are spending money, you can also reduce unsprung weight by upgrading brakes. My Wilwood kit shaves off another 11 lbs, for a total of 59 lbs. less outboard, rotating, unsprung weight vs. stock.

One consideration if you upgrade your wheels and tires is that the manufacturer may not have the exact same style wheel available for replacement at some time in the future, if you damage a wheel. I bought a fifth wheel, to avoid this becoming a problem.

And, finally, wheels and tires will not violate your warranty, while a pulley probably will, if your dealer is not one of the helpful variety.
Not so true.
R84 X-lite (aka Monza, V-spoke) ET48 17.6lb (8.0kg) [SIZE=1][silver, white][/SIZE]
[SIZE=1][/SIZE]
And that is 16"!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 11:54 AM
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Pulley and a JCW Belt....Then research the wheels you really want...
The pully will be instantly more enjoyable...
Finding the rims you want to run with that's a challenge!
 
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