Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Going Catless

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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 12:11 PM
  #51  
Terry @ BMS's Avatar
Terry @ BMS
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From: terry@burgertuning.com
Originally Posted by ltjpunk7
well I think we're gonna mess around wth a few different ideas, one being using a bored out spark plug defouler in order to remove the O2 sensor from the direct flow of the exhaust gasses.
Some have had luck with that, but from my experience with the 335i it doesn't eliminate the codes, just reduces the interval between codes. But it is easy to try!
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 12:58 PM
  #52  
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ltjpunk7
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Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Some have had luck with that, but from my experience with the 335i it doesn't eliminate the codes, just reduces the interval between codes. But it is easy to try!
We're initially going to try using an O2 bung before using the spark plug defouler. Also, we're still trying to find the exact size and type of exit flange off of the turbo where it meets the downpipe. Anyone know where I could find this information? I've tried realoem.com and the MINI dealership and neither have the size. I'd really like to be able to order the part before taking my car apart, but if we can't find that info, I may have to just rip it apart to find out. Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 02:53 PM
  #53  
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From: Kansas City
I've been catless for years................still have my dogs tho............
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 06:23 PM
  #54  
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You still run into problems here..

Originally Posted by DrosS
You know, they tried relocating the o2 with the milltek downpipe, which had a cat. They were still throwing CELs. With Simms, there shouldn't be an issue. You can use an OBD scanner to check all codes and also clear all codes, but they will come back eventually.
if there's any sort of smog inspection. There are driving cycle items that need miles and cycles from cold to normal operating temp and back to set. If you clear your codes, all these are erased. For states without the inspection, not a big deal. But for these states, you might as well just take apart the dash cluster and pull the LED.

Also, if it's really a race car, who cares if it's got the check engine light. If it's a street car, it sucks that one would run catless, for zillions of reason.

Matt
 
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 01:47 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
if there's any sort of smog inspection. There are driving cycle items that need miles and cycles from cold to normal operating temp and back to set. If you clear your codes, all these are erased. For states without the inspection, not a big deal. But for these states, you might as well just take apart the dash cluster and pull the LED.

Also, if it's really a race car, who cares if it's got the check engine light. If it's a street car, it sucks that one would run catless, for zillions of reason.

Matt
You are right about driving cycles, that's why the CEL would not come back right away. It will clear the code for the time being, but as soon as all monitors are up and running, the CEL will come back. Even taking the LED out wouldn't change a thing. As soon as a scan tool is hooked up it will read that not all monitors are up, and you will FAIL the inspection for functionality.

You would care on a race track if u threw a CEL and your car went into limp mode. 1/2 boost = boring day at the track
 
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 02:12 PM
  #56  
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But you don't need a CEL light

to tell you you're in limp mode.

Matt
 
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 10:39 PM
  #57  
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Sounds pretty helpful don't you think! Not to mention all the other helpful things a CEL could tell you. A CEL is a resourse...not a burden - I like to keep it that way. As long as it is not triggered, the car will not go into limp mode. So I just get a Simm and it wont be triggered by o2s...but I can still see if something is wrong immediately and stop the car.
 

Last edited by DrosS; Jan 29, 2008 at 10:14 AM.
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