Drivetrain Going Catless
#31
#32
It's a turbo only R53 kit...
for all the reasons posted above... But watch the virtual HP. The ones quoted make 10% on a 300 HP car.... 10% on the MCS R56 is ~20 HP, a bit less. Is that significantly more than what you can already get?
I think one of the other companies withdrew thier R56 downpipe cause of code issues, for the UPSTREAM cat. If someone is saying you can take the cat out and not throw codes without a sim installed for the downstream cat, they're smoking crack.
Matt
I think one of the other companies withdrew thier R56 downpipe cause of code issues, for the UPSTREAM cat. If someone is saying you can take the cat out and not throw codes without a sim installed for the downstream cat, they're smoking crack.
Matt
#33
I've been thinking about fiting a test pipe or finding a catless downpipe for my race application. So far I have only seen catted downpipes. Is there anyone who has done this already or is also thinking about it? I'm am wondering for tuning purposes. I think the elimination of all back-pressure could double the amount power seen from the catted downpipes already on the market...especually with a bigger turbo.
You do realize that its a dino proven fact that a cat only robs about 5 HP!
why bother. youll never notice the difference, and then you have the emissions saga to go through.
Oh yea and the enviorment????
#34
for all the reasons posted above... But watch the virtual HP. The ones quoted make 10% on a 300 HP car.... 10% on the MCS R56 is ~20 HP, a bit less. Is that significantly more than what you can already get?
I think one of the other companies withdrew thier R56 downpipe cause of code issues, for the UPSTREAM cat. If someone is saying you can take the cat out and not throw codes without a sim installed for the downstream cat, they're smoking crack.
Matt
I think one of the other companies withdrew thier R56 downpipe cause of code issues, for the UPSTREAM cat. If someone is saying you can take the cat out and not throw codes without a sim installed for the downstream cat, they're smoking crack.
Matt
#35
This is for my RACE application. Using a cat would be a waste of money. With the amount of boost that I will be running from the upgraded turbo with meth injection...the cat wouldn't stand a fighting chance. Also, it is dyno proven that with higher amounts of boost, any excess backpressure can squeeze the top end power out of your expensive snail (turbo). You are very corrent in regards to a stock/street setup.
#36
Just curious, how many people want to see cheaper catted downpipes for the R56? I know it's kind of a dumb question and a no brainer, but it seems the only good one out there is the Alta and it's priced pretty high. What I'm saying is, is that there is no compitetion in the market...no incentive to have lower prices. Perrin (same company as Alta) makes catted DPs for the 2007 WRX and STi which cost around $330-350 for each section (of 2 sections) - that comes out to about $700. That's almost $200 cheaper than the Alta DP @ $869.99 for the R56. I'm guessing that this is because there is actually competition in the subaru market. I'll will talk with Riss on the subject - maybe I can get some compition going...Anyone interested?
#37
Just curious, how many people want to see cheaper catted downpipes for the R56? I know it's kind of a dumb question and a no brainer, but it seems the only good one out there is the Alta and it's priced pretty high. What I'm saying is, is that there is no compitetion in the market...no incentive to have lower prices. Perrin (same company as Alta) makes catted DPs for the 2007 WRX and STi which cost around $330-350 for each section (of 2 sections) - that comes out to about $700. That's almost $200 cheaper than the Alta DP @ $869.99 for the R56. I'm guessing that this is because there is actually competition in the subaru market. I'll will talk with Riss on the subject - maybe I can get some compition going...Anyone interested?
Perrin and Alta are owned by the same people.... With 3 cats (to stay legal, you cant move or remove any of them), its going to be cost prohibitive. And to top that we need quality cats because the second o2 sensor is apparently pretty pissy with regards to the difference in voltage from the front one. I think other manufacturers might not want to get into this because of all the potential issues with CELs and such. The other issue I see is Alta uses polished stainless piping, v band clamps, and pricey cats. I wish they'd offer an aluminized steel verison to be cheaper. I don't need the cost or the bling of stainless, its under my car and I'll never see it. If you want a cheaper exhaust, go find a local place with a mandrel bender on site (no, Riss doesn't have one, thats why they needed an order of 25 to start) and have them make you one. My friend got a turbo back custom made for his GTI, 3" and all, for around $800 IIRC, thats with nice tips, a magnaflow muffler, and all mandrel bends. Just food for thought. I'm in welding school and when I'm done I intend to make parts like the ones you want, but I'm not going to until I'm 110% sure I can make awesome quality welds. And please dont say your car is for race application we all know its registered and you'll drive it on the street... too much fun not to.
Have fun,
Josh
Last edited by a96bimmerm3; 01-20-2008 at 12:55 PM.
#38
This is for my RACE application. Using a cat would be a waste of money. With the amount of boost that I will be running from the upgraded turbo with meth injection...the cat wouldn't stand a fighting chance. Also, it is dyno proven that with higher amounts of boost, any excess backpressure can squeeze the top end power out of your expensive snail (turbo). You are very corrent in regards to a stock/street setup.
why not just fab up your own pipe, the prices i see for them are crazy.
A good exhaust shop could fab one for around 100-150
thatll save you more bucks for the race fuel!
#39
Once you go to the track, driving on the street is just not the same. I know you may not appreciate a downpipe for it's "bling" factor, but stainless steel & titanium are the choice materials used to make exhaust parts (because the high temperatures). Titanium is much more expensive. I'm not going to be paying much at all for the fabrication of the pipe - Riss is going to be involved with the design and functionality (Simms and whatnot)...That's what I needed them for.
#40
I'm getting a custom turbo-back built for me this week. I'm going catless and for the entire system (no cats at all) I'm getting quoted $850 w/o the muffler and tips (because I already have those at my house). So with my muffler and tips (around $150) I'm paying $1000 for a catless, T304 SS, turbo-back system. Probably a little bit more than some people here, but I trust the shop the the peace of mind is worth the extra money.
As far as CEL go, I planned on using something they showed me that extends the O2 sensor lower down (??I don't know much about exhaust systems) and they said that would probably clear it. Do you know if doing that in the downpipe alone would suffice? Also, if I do throw a CEL, isn't there a way to just read the code and get it shut off or something like that? Sorry, I'm not a pro when it comes to engine management and OBD-II stuff. Thanks.
As far as CEL go, I planned on using something they showed me that extends the O2 sensor lower down (??I don't know much about exhaust systems) and they said that would probably clear it. Do you know if doing that in the downpipe alone would suffice? Also, if I do throw a CEL, isn't there a way to just read the code and get it shut off or something like that? Sorry, I'm not a pro when it comes to engine management and OBD-II stuff. Thanks.
#41
Once you go to the track, driving on the street is just not the same. I know you may not appreciate a downpipe for it's "bling" factor, but stainless steel & titanium are the choice materials used to make exhaust parts (because the high temperatures). Titanium is much more expensive. I'm not going to be paying much at all for the fabrication of the pipe - Riss is going to be involved with the design and functionality (Simms and whatnot)...That's what I needed them for.
#42
For those interested in a downpipe contact Milltek and put pressure on them to fix the problem with the CEL that is probably connected to the cat they use.
Alta uses a 400 cel cat & Milltek was using a 200 cel. See posts under Milltek downpipe. Competition really doesn't exist for downpipes and without it prices will stay high.
Just my .02.
Alta uses a 400 cel cat & Milltek was using a 200 cel. See posts under Milltek downpipe. Competition really doesn't exist for downpipes and without it prices will stay high.
Just my .02.
#43
So I decided to go with 2.5" all the way through the system. Still not gonna use any cats; partially for power reasons, partially for cost reasons. I'll keep you all updated on the progress. It should be built within the week and I'll try to take photos as well as get a before and after dyno.
Also, does anyone know the size of the turbo exit flange where it connects to the downpope? Is it 2-5/8"? Thanks.
Also, does anyone know the size of the turbo exit flange where it connects to the downpope? Is it 2-5/8"? Thanks.
#47
For the record I've had aluminized steel exhaust on my TT, which has a 2871R turbo and ~ 30psi of boost, and always runs a bit rich, I've had the downpipe and cat BRIGHT red with no problems. Stainless and titanium are for bling. 304 is nice for header strength but aluminized steel is half the price!
#48
I'm getting a custom turbo-back built for me this week. I'm going catless and for the entire system (no cats at all) I'm getting quoted $850 w/o the muffler and tips (because I already have those at my house). So with my muffler and tips (around $150) I'm paying $1000 for a catless, T304 SS, turbo-back system. Probably a little bit more than some people here, but I trust the shop the the peace of mind is worth the extra money.
As far as CEL go, I planned on using something they showed me that extends the O2 sensor lower down (??I don't know much about exhaust systems) and they said that would probably clear it. Do you know if doing that in the downpipe alone would suffice? Also, if I do throw a CEL, isn't there a way to just read the code and get it shut off or something like that? Sorry, I'm not a pro when it comes to engine management and OBD-II stuff. Thanks.
As far as CEL go, I planned on using something they showed me that extends the O2 sensor lower down (??I don't know much about exhaust systems) and they said that would probably clear it. Do you know if doing that in the downpipe alone would suffice? Also, if I do throw a CEL, isn't there a way to just read the code and get it shut off or something like that? Sorry, I'm not a pro when it comes to engine management and OBD-II stuff. Thanks.
#50
well I think we're gonna mess around wth a few different ideas, one being using a bored out spark plug defouler in order to remove the O2 sensor from the direct flow of the exhaust gasses.