Drivetrain Loose nuts concern from Strut Tower Plates?
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 987
Likes: 29
From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Loose nuts concern from Strut Tower Plates?
Has anyone experienced the nuts getting loose when the strut tower reinforcement plates are installed (e.g. M7, Craven) or STB due to the nut being partly seated in the bolt? Should I put loctite just to be safe? Thanks.
The IE fixed plated i have came with a lock-nut. Not the mechanical one mind you the Teflon variety so it's not a big concern with me. But with some vibrations the stock nuts could loosen a bit. Re torque after a week and you should be fine, if your still worried a dab of blue loctite and you'll never have to worry again.
This is the reason why I have always been skeptical of these plates. I would have a hard time feeling comfortable knowing my suspension is attached by a nut that is only partially threaded onto the bolt.
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I'm curious, have ANY failed? I'm not aware of any...
Steve
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 987
Likes: 29
From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Thanks for all the input. I do not have mushrooming but decided to get the plate as preventative measure as fellow NAM members attest. I will check it periodically but would really like to put blue loctite...for extra peace of mind.
Had a bad case of mushrooming, banged it back and installed the M7's . Nuts baking off are not the problem, the reinforcement plates are!!! they are....
Mushrooming!
. Passenger side is pretty bad! No surprise there, as the reduction in material thickness over the ridges is realy drastic and sudden. I just didn't expected it so soon.
Don't try to fix the "mushroom" with the plate itself, you'll bend it. Use the 2x4 method as recommended by M7. Once you get the plates it is obvious why you shouldn't.
The Craven are a bit better design as the bridge part is as thick as the plate, still, a 45% angle at the edges of the bridge would transfer loads better. Problem is the strut tower studs are even shorter than for the M7.
Mushrooming!
. Passenger side is pretty bad! No surprise there, as the reduction in material thickness over the ridges is realy drastic and sudden. I just didn't expected it so soon.Don't try to fix the "mushroom" with the plate itself, you'll bend it. Use the 2x4 method as recommended by M7. Once you get the plates it is obvious why you shouldn't.
The Craven are a bit better design as the bridge part is as thick as the plate, still, a 45% angle at the edges of the bridge would transfer loads better. Problem is the strut tower studs are even shorter than for the M7.
Saw this thread bumped today, so naturally I had to overreact and immediately run out to the garage, pop the bonnet, and check on the security of my M7 STPs.
Thankfully, the nuts are still as snug as the day of installation (about 8K miles ago). No loctite used or planned.
Thankfully, the nuts are still as snug as the day of installation (about 8K miles ago). No loctite used or planned.
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