Drivetrain SC Pulley Install - Cost?
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4th Gear
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 361
Likes: 1
From: Boise, ID
SC Pulley Install - Cost?
I've taken a look at how to install the SC Pulley, and frankly, I do NOT want to take up such a task on such an expensive car that I'm still making payments on. So, I'd like to see how much it would cost.
I live in Boise, Idaho. I do not trust many people around here to work on my Mini. I take it to one place only, and they don't do installs on aftermarket products.
So how much can I expect to spend, roughly, on a SC Pulley Install?
I live in Boise, Idaho. I do not trust many people around here to work on my Mini. I take it to one place only, and they don't do installs on aftermarket products.
So how much can I expect to spend, roughly, on a SC Pulley Install?
Peace Keeper
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,747
Likes: 1
From: Defiance, Ohio
I cannot help you on the cost, but I did the install with one other guy and it was not that bad. As long as you are paying attention it is hard to mess things up. It does require a bit of time, but in the end it is worth saving the money for something else other than labor costs.
Thread Starter
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4th Gear
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 361
Likes: 1
From: Boise, ID
I cannot help you on the cost, but I did the install with one other guy and it was not that bad. As long as you are paying attention it is hard to mess things up. It does require a bit of time, but in the end it is worth saving the money for something else other than labor costs.
Peace Keeper
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,747
Likes: 1
From: Defiance, Ohio
I think that if you go out and buy a floor jack it will be cheaper than the job.
look through the how-tos. All I did was hoist the engine up with a block of wood on a floor jack(this is the part where you have to be careful).
look through the how-tos. All I did was hoist the engine up with a block of wood on a floor jack(this is the part where you have to be careful).
Thread Starter
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4th Gear
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 361
Likes: 1
From: Boise, ID
And not to mention everything else involved. Maybe if there was a step-by-step, picture-by-picture guide on how to do it... Cause I would NOT remember where everything is connected to put it back.
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5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,026
Likes: 2
From: Florida
The Webb instructions are pretty detailed and if you are the least bit mechanically inclined, it's not too hard. I am not an expert by any means, but I did it in an afternoon with the help of a friend.
As far as cost... My dealer charger $400 including the pulley. I think that was the going rate from places like Way Motor Works too.
As far as cost... My dealer charger $400 including the pulley. I think that was the going rate from places like Way Motor Works too.
Peace Keeper
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,747
Likes: 1
From: Defiance, Ohio
Here you go...
Thanks for all of the help with the other post guys! I wanted to cover all the details, so I figured it was time to do the promised how-to on lifting the motor to gain access to the pulley (something that must be done no matter what pulley or removal tool is used).
Time Required
1-3 hours
Tools Required
#25 torx
standard screwdriver
phillips screwdriver
8mm socket if the Madness intake is installed
10mm socket
13mm socket
16mm socket
18mm deep socket or wrench
clamp removal tool or small standard screwdriver and small plier
belt tensioner tool (or small screwdriver to pin the tension)
pulley removal tool with crow's foot puller
acetylene torch or head oven
floor jack and stands
Before starting, open the rear hatch and disconnect the battery with a 13mm. Leave the hatch open.
1. Jack up the car until the stand will fit under the factory jack point without any extension (to keep the car relatively low).
2. Remove the intake. Start by removing the battery terminal from the side of the airbox - it just clips out.
If you have the Rogue/Madness/Turner intake (one in the same), remove the 8mm bolt from the partition.
Remove the clamp at the intake boot.
Remove the two #25 torx bolts at the base of the intake heat shield (or if it is the stock box, these same two bolts hold the top of the airbox in place).
Remove the intake or the panel filter and airbox top (depending on what you have).
3. Remove the ECU and lower airbox half. Remove the ECU cover (it just has two tabs on each side that squeeze together and pull off), then remove each of the two plugs. These are a little tricky - they have tabs on the end of the plug that pull away from the plug which forces the plug up and off. It's easiest to use a small screwdriver very carefully to pull these tabs away from the plug.
You can see the tab just under my left hand on the larger of the two plugs.
Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the driver side of the airbox down. There is also a small steel bracket holding a wiring loom that is attached with this same 10mm. You will need to move this loom slightly out of the way to remove the airbox.
Now remove the clamp on the snorkle to the airbox. You will either use a standard screwdriver if you have replaced the clamp, or the factory removal tool if you still have the stock clamp (you can also remove the stock clamp with a small screwdriver and replace it with the screwdriver and small pliers). Press down on the tab inside the bottom of the airbox that holds the snorkle in place and pull it out of the car.
Remove the wiring to the battery terminal from the lower airbox half.
You can now remove the lower airbox half by pulling back and then out.
Here's what it looks like with the box removed. Note the two small rubber mounting bolts at the bottom rear of the partition. The box is molded on the underside to fit into these mounts, which is why you had to pull toward the front of the car before you pulled up and out.
4. Remove the skid plate. There are two phillips head screws, one on each side (they are like dzus fasteners).
Then, remove the three 10mm bolts in front of the lip.
Now you can pull the skid plate out by tugging aft then down.
5. Remove the lower motor mount 16mm bolt.
6. Using a small block of wood, line up the jack with the power steering fan under the drainplug. Being very careful not to interfere with the power steering fan, jack up until you are resting the jack firmly on the motor.
7. Remove the driver side 16mm motor mount bolt. It helps to wiggle as you are pulling it out, and jacking slightly may help as well. It is a little bit of an art, but once you get the hang of it, it is pretty easy (and it is the same thing threading it back in - you get good at it by just wiggling and jacking the motor at the same time).
8. Remove the 10mm clamp bolt holding the wiring loom and radiator hose to the intake manifold.
9. Remove the 13mm ground bolt from the passenger side motor mount.
Be careful to hold the bottom of the bolt to prevent it from falling out when you pull the nut off.
10. I slide the regulator off its bracket to gain more room for the tensioner tool, but you don't really have to. Remove the quick disconnect fittings and use a screwdriver to push the tab on the bracket in slightly and slide it off toward you.
11. There are three hoses attached to the vibration damper bracket. These just pop out of their respective holders.
12. Remove the vibration damper bracket 16mm bolts - the front one is shorter than the rear (for reassembly).
Remove the damper bracket.
13. Using the 18mm wrench or deep socket, remove the passenger side motor mount nut.
14. Now, being very careful in several places, slowly jack up the motor. Pay special attention to the coil pack plug, the throttle body, and the power steering fan. Watch all of the hoses and wiring as you go up incrementally. This is the riskiest part of the job, so pay very close attention.
15. Using the belt tensioner tool, remove the tension on the belt and pull the serpentine belt off of the idler gear. The pulley tool is just a big lever with a pin on the end that fits into the two holes in the tensioner itself. The lever fulcrum is the forward 16mm tensioner mounting bolt.
No making fun of those welds! That's what happens when you run out of inert gas and at the same time don't prep your surface!
16. Remove the belt tensioner. There are four bolts, two 10mm and two 16mm.
The rear 16mm is the whiter of those two bolts in the fuzzy pic.
Note the two holes where the tensioner tool is inserted.
Now you have access to the pulley!
17. Install the pulley removal tool. Start by taking the plastic center cap out of the s/c shaft. It helps to get the lip out slightly with the blade of a standard screwdriver, then it will just thread right out like a bolt by hand.
Install a 13mm bolt into the center of the shaft. Slide the two halves of the removal tool over the pulley and tighten the allens.
Now install the crow's foot puller onto the removal tool.
Using a ratchet on the end of the puller, wind the pulley off. This is a very effective and easy way to get the pulley off. It requires no drilling or cutting, and has worked everytime without a hitch.
18. Now that you have the old pulley off, it's time to either get out the torch, or go get the pulley hub out of the oven (use 450F or so). Heat the hub using the torch for about 10 seconds, then slide the hub onto the shaft with a hot glove, making sure it is flush with the end of the shaft. Using a screwdriver or spacer helps make sure it doesn't go too far onto the shaft.
Using a drop of red Loctite on each bolt, install the aluminum half of the pulley. It may be easier to have the bolts snug, and then check them again after you get the tensioner and belt back on.
19. Reinstall the tensioner with the two 16mm and two 10mm bolts. After you have it installed, replace the belt (you will again have to use the tensioner tool to release the tension while you get the belt back on). Here is a rough diagram of the serpentine belt routing:
Here is the tensioner being installed:
20. Slowly lower the car onto the passenger side motor mount bolt. Once you get the nut started, place a stand with wood under the gearbox and slide the jack more to the center of the motor/gearbox. Now jack it up slightly and use the wiggle jack method to get the other motor mount bolt started. After that, it's just a matter of reinstalling everything.
21. Reinstall the vibration damper bracket (two 16mm bolts - long bolt to the rear of the car) and the associated hoses by snapping them back into place.
22. Reinstall the regulator and quick disconnect hoses.
23. Reintall the 13mm ground strap bolt.
24. Reinstall the 10mm hose/wire loom clamp bolt.
25. Reinstall the airbox. When you are putting in the lower half of the airbox, make sure you lower it into position before sliding it back into the rubber mounts. It helps to take a look at the underside and figure out how the rubber mounts fit into the bottom of the airbox. You can feel the box and rubber mounts to be sure they are attached.
You use the tabs on the ECU plugs to reattach them. Make sure they are fully extended, line them up on the associated plug, then slowly close the tab and it will pull the plug onto the ECU. Replace the ECU cover by pressing it into place.
Reattach the 10mm forward bolt on the airbox - don't forget to put the bolt through the wiring loom bracket too. Reattach the snorkle by presing it into the lower airbox half and lining up the pin on the snorkle with the female receptacle. Reatach the snorkle hose clamp.
Replace the intake with the 8mm and #25 torx bolts. Don't forget to reattach the intake rubber boot and snug the clamp.
26. Reattach the 16mm lower motor mount bolt.
27. Put the skid plate back in place with the three 10mm bolts and the two dzus type fasteners (phillips head).
28. Remove the jack stands and lower the car.
29. Reattach the battery terminal.
30. Turn the ingnition key on for 10 seconds to reinitialize, then start the car. Check to see that nothing is askew (I like that word). Listen for belt noises, look at the belt alignment, check for any leaks, etc.
Go out and enjoy your new monster!
Some finished shots:
As always, if there are any questions, feel free to give me a call.
Randy
720-841-1002
_________________
Click It!
Time Required
1-3 hours
Tools Required
#25 torx
standard screwdriver
phillips screwdriver
8mm socket if the Madness intake is installed
10mm socket
13mm socket
16mm socket
18mm deep socket or wrench
clamp removal tool or small standard screwdriver and small plier
belt tensioner tool (or small screwdriver to pin the tension)
pulley removal tool with crow's foot puller
acetylene torch or head oven
floor jack and stands
Before starting, open the rear hatch and disconnect the battery with a 13mm. Leave the hatch open.
1. Jack up the car until the stand will fit under the factory jack point without any extension (to keep the car relatively low).
2. Remove the intake. Start by removing the battery terminal from the side of the airbox - it just clips out.
If you have the Rogue/Madness/Turner intake (one in the same), remove the 8mm bolt from the partition.
Remove the clamp at the intake boot.
Remove the two #25 torx bolts at the base of the intake heat shield (or if it is the stock box, these same two bolts hold the top of the airbox in place).
Remove the intake or the panel filter and airbox top (depending on what you have).
3. Remove the ECU and lower airbox half. Remove the ECU cover (it just has two tabs on each side that squeeze together and pull off), then remove each of the two plugs. These are a little tricky - they have tabs on the end of the plug that pull away from the plug which forces the plug up and off. It's easiest to use a small screwdriver very carefully to pull these tabs away from the plug.
You can see the tab just under my left hand on the larger of the two plugs.
Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the driver side of the airbox down. There is also a small steel bracket holding a wiring loom that is attached with this same 10mm. You will need to move this loom slightly out of the way to remove the airbox.
Now remove the clamp on the snorkle to the airbox. You will either use a standard screwdriver if you have replaced the clamp, or the factory removal tool if you still have the stock clamp (you can also remove the stock clamp with a small screwdriver and replace it with the screwdriver and small pliers). Press down on the tab inside the bottom of the airbox that holds the snorkle in place and pull it out of the car.
Remove the wiring to the battery terminal from the lower airbox half.
You can now remove the lower airbox half by pulling back and then out.
Here's what it looks like with the box removed. Note the two small rubber mounting bolts at the bottom rear of the partition. The box is molded on the underside to fit into these mounts, which is why you had to pull toward the front of the car before you pulled up and out.
4. Remove the skid plate. There are two phillips head screws, one on each side (they are like dzus fasteners).
Then, remove the three 10mm bolts in front of the lip.
Now you can pull the skid plate out by tugging aft then down.
5. Remove the lower motor mount 16mm bolt.
6. Using a small block of wood, line up the jack with the power steering fan under the drainplug. Being very careful not to interfere with the power steering fan, jack up until you are resting the jack firmly on the motor.
7. Remove the driver side 16mm motor mount bolt. It helps to wiggle as you are pulling it out, and jacking slightly may help as well. It is a little bit of an art, but once you get the hang of it, it is pretty easy (and it is the same thing threading it back in - you get good at it by just wiggling and jacking the motor at the same time).
8. Remove the 10mm clamp bolt holding the wiring loom and radiator hose to the intake manifold.
9. Remove the 13mm ground bolt from the passenger side motor mount.
Be careful to hold the bottom of the bolt to prevent it from falling out when you pull the nut off.
10. I slide the regulator off its bracket to gain more room for the tensioner tool, but you don't really have to. Remove the quick disconnect fittings and use a screwdriver to push the tab on the bracket in slightly and slide it off toward you.
11. There are three hoses attached to the vibration damper bracket. These just pop out of their respective holders.
12. Remove the vibration damper bracket 16mm bolts - the front one is shorter than the rear (for reassembly).
Remove the damper bracket.
13. Using the 18mm wrench or deep socket, remove the passenger side motor mount nut.
14. Now, being very careful in several places, slowly jack up the motor. Pay special attention to the coil pack plug, the throttle body, and the power steering fan. Watch all of the hoses and wiring as you go up incrementally. This is the riskiest part of the job, so pay very close attention.
15. Using the belt tensioner tool, remove the tension on the belt and pull the serpentine belt off of the idler gear. The pulley tool is just a big lever with a pin on the end that fits into the two holes in the tensioner itself. The lever fulcrum is the forward 16mm tensioner mounting bolt.
No making fun of those welds! That's what happens when you run out of inert gas and at the same time don't prep your surface!
16. Remove the belt tensioner. There are four bolts, two 10mm and two 16mm.
The rear 16mm is the whiter of those two bolts in the fuzzy pic.
Note the two holes where the tensioner tool is inserted.
Now you have access to the pulley!
17. Install the pulley removal tool. Start by taking the plastic center cap out of the s/c shaft. It helps to get the lip out slightly with the blade of a standard screwdriver, then it will just thread right out like a bolt by hand.
Install a 13mm bolt into the center of the shaft. Slide the two halves of the removal tool over the pulley and tighten the allens.
Now install the crow's foot puller onto the removal tool.
Using a ratchet on the end of the puller, wind the pulley off. This is a very effective and easy way to get the pulley off. It requires no drilling or cutting, and has worked everytime without a hitch.
18. Now that you have the old pulley off, it's time to either get out the torch, or go get the pulley hub out of the oven (use 450F or so). Heat the hub using the torch for about 10 seconds, then slide the hub onto the shaft with a hot glove, making sure it is flush with the end of the shaft. Using a screwdriver or spacer helps make sure it doesn't go too far onto the shaft.
Using a drop of red Loctite on each bolt, install the aluminum half of the pulley. It may be easier to have the bolts snug, and then check them again after you get the tensioner and belt back on.
19. Reinstall the tensioner with the two 16mm and two 10mm bolts. After you have it installed, replace the belt (you will again have to use the tensioner tool to release the tension while you get the belt back on). Here is a rough diagram of the serpentine belt routing:
Here is the tensioner being installed:
20. Slowly lower the car onto the passenger side motor mount bolt. Once you get the nut started, place a stand with wood under the gearbox and slide the jack more to the center of the motor/gearbox. Now jack it up slightly and use the wiggle jack method to get the other motor mount bolt started. After that, it's just a matter of reinstalling everything.
21. Reinstall the vibration damper bracket (two 16mm bolts - long bolt to the rear of the car) and the associated hoses by snapping them back into place.
22. Reinstall the regulator and quick disconnect hoses.
23. Reintall the 13mm ground strap bolt.
24. Reinstall the 10mm hose/wire loom clamp bolt.
25. Reinstall the airbox. When you are putting in the lower half of the airbox, make sure you lower it into position before sliding it back into the rubber mounts. It helps to take a look at the underside and figure out how the rubber mounts fit into the bottom of the airbox. You can feel the box and rubber mounts to be sure they are attached.
You use the tabs on the ECU plugs to reattach them. Make sure they are fully extended, line them up on the associated plug, then slowly close the tab and it will pull the plug onto the ECU. Replace the ECU cover by pressing it into place.
Reattach the 10mm forward bolt on the airbox - don't forget to put the bolt through the wiring loom bracket too. Reattach the snorkle by presing it into the lower airbox half and lining up the pin on the snorkle with the female receptacle. Reatach the snorkle hose clamp.
Replace the intake with the 8mm and #25 torx bolts. Don't forget to reattach the intake rubber boot and snug the clamp.
26. Reattach the 16mm lower motor mount bolt.
27. Put the skid plate back in place with the three 10mm bolts and the two dzus type fasteners (phillips head).
28. Remove the jack stands and lower the car.
29. Reattach the battery terminal.
30. Turn the ingnition key on for 10 seconds to reinitialize, then start the car. Check to see that nothing is askew (I like that word). Listen for belt noises, look at the belt alignment, check for any leaks, etc.
Go out and enjoy your new monster!
Some finished shots:
As always, if there are any questions, feel free to give me a call.
Randy
720-841-1002
_________________
Click It!
Thread Starter
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4th Gear
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 361
Likes: 1
From: Boise, ID
Awesome! Those are the best instructions for the install that I've seen. Looks pretty easy.
The extent of my mechanical knowledge goes is:
replacing fuses
dropping fuses into engine bay and digging them out
mounting/dismounting wheel
replacing cv boot on '84 Honda Prelude
Haha. I just might have to give this one a try. Maybe I'll go over to my Dad's and employ him in the project.
Thanks a lot Chris!
The extent of my mechanical knowledge goes is:
replacing fuses
dropping fuses into engine bay and digging them out
mounting/dismounting wheel
replacing cv boot on '84 Honda Prelude
Haha. I just might have to give this one a try. Maybe I'll go over to my Dad's and employ him in the project.
Thanks a lot Chris!
1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Boise, ID
Did you say Boise, Idaho?? 
I've been looking for a shop too. Sending a PM to both of you as I see lots of MC and MCS around town, but have yet to meet any of the owners. Good to know about Eurosport as well.
I've been looking for a shop too. Sending a PM to both of you as I see lots of MC and MCS around town, but have yet to meet any of the owners. Good to know about Eurosport as well.
Thread Starter
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4th Gear
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 361
Likes: 1
From: Boise, ID
Well crap. I just took a better look at the tools required to install this sucker, and it would cost me more to get everything to do it myself, than it would to drive to Salt Lake and have it installed.
*sigh*
*sigh*
Thread Starter
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4th Gear
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 361
Likes: 1
From: Boise, ID
What about heating the pulley hub?
Regular convection bake oven work? Ha.
edit: Just went to the local mod shop and they want $90/hr if they buy the pulley and $110/hr if I buy the pulley. So around $300. *sigh*
Regular convection bake oven work? Ha.
edit: Just went to the local mod shop and they want $90/hr if they buy the pulley and $110/hr if I buy the pulley. So around $300. *sigh*
Last edited by uRabbit; Nov 9, 2007 at 10:56 AM.
1st Gear
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: ft.myers florida
i have faith you can do it yourself.
took me 45-1 hour to do this all by myself, with basic tools for the job. absolutly destroyed the stock pully getting it off but, wasn't gonna keep it anyhow. i'm 23 and went to mechanic school, but this job sounds harder than it actually is.
took me 45-1 hour to do this all by myself, with basic tools for the job. absolutly destroyed the stock pully getting it off but, wasn't gonna keep it anyhow. i'm 23 and went to mechanic school, but this job sounds harder than it actually is.
I paid 3 hours of labor at $75/hr so 225 for the Pulley Install. I later installed a pulley on someone else's car here from NAM.
All in all it's a quick job, as usual, takes less time than the shop actually charges, but they charge for the overall job not the actual time it takes.
First time, you could prolly knock it out in 2.5 hours taking your time. Just take off the filter, unbolt the engine, use a floor jack with a piece of wood on it to lift the engine, and do yourself a favor and use the proper pulley puller. It's really not hard at all.
All in all it's a quick job, as usual, takes less time than the shop actually charges, but they charge for the overall job not the actual time it takes.
First time, you could prolly knock it out in 2.5 hours taking your time. Just take off the filter, unbolt the engine, use a floor jack with a piece of wood on it to lift the engine, and do yourself a favor and use the proper pulley puller. It's really not hard at all.
5th Gear
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 779
Likes: 4
This one of those things where the 1st time, you're going to spend 5x as long and have to find a puller, so if you have someone local who is experienced and reliable to do the work, I'd just use them. I'd spend the better part of a day doing it, worrying about whether I was screwing something up. Well worth the $100 labor to have someone else do it who had done the same job fifteen+ times and has all the tools and a good shop.
- Mark
Last edited by markjenn; Nov 9, 2007 at 12:14 PM.
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