What Order?
What Order?
I have...
Clay
Amigo
Epic
Hydro
Do I want to do all these steps or is Amigo and Clay basically the same? I have a four month old Cooper with a few water spots and bird shots that has yet to have a GOOD wax.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
LGK
Clay
Amigo
Epic
Hydro
Do I want to do all these steps or is Amigo and Clay basically the same? I have a four month old Cooper with a few water spots and bird shots that has yet to have a GOOD wax.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
LGK
Given the description you provided - this is the right order (starting with a GOOD wash).
Clay will remove any bonded contaminants
Amigo will "cleanse" the paint and prep for sealant
Epic will seal (I recommend 2 coats)
You probably won't need Hydro immediately on top of the Epic - save that for the next time you wash IMO.
Clay will remove any bonded contaminants
Amigo will "cleanse" the paint and prep for sealant
Epic will seal (I recommend 2 coats)
You probably won't need Hydro immediately on top of the Epic - save that for the next time you wash IMO.
Given the description you provided - this is the right order (starting with a GOOD wash).
Clay will remove any bonded contaminants
Amigo will "cleanse" the paint and prep for sealant
Epic will seal (I recommend 2 coats)
You probably won't need Hydro immediately on top of the Epic - save that for the next time you wash IMO.
Clay will remove any bonded contaminants
Amigo will "cleanse" the paint and prep for sealant
Epic will seal (I recommend 2 coats)
You probably won't need Hydro immediately on top of the Epic - save that for the next time you wash IMO.
And on the Hydro over Epic, I do that, Hydro gives that nice *look* (i dont now how to explain it) that Epic alone dosn't give (although Epic alone is amazing too.)
Also - Amigo will help fill light swirls if you have any...
And remember - it takes up to 24 hours for Epic to fully cure and develop max shine - I'd wait at least a day before applying Hydro or anything else on top of it.
And remember - it takes up to 24 hours for Epic to fully cure and develop max shine - I'd wait at least a day before applying Hydro or anything else on top of it.
But after the inital buff it is ok to get it wet, so don't be worried if the weather person (I don't like them) claim rain is coming over night or something like that.
So then it's a Hyrdo day for me!
I'll be able to claim the badge of honor soon enough.
To the OP, DP products are very good.
I'll be able to claim the badge of honor soon enough.
To the OP, DP products are very good.
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...why am I so intimidated to do all of this detailing myself? I love everything I've read about these Prima products, but I'm just afraid to 'dive in' and end up messing something up. Anyone else feel/felt like that?
Really, you can't mess anything up. The only thing you could do is get some stuff on your trim, but as long as your swift to wife it off, nothing will even happen then. Just take your time, follow the instructions, and enjoy your 'new and improved' MINI.
I guess it's more of an issue of what to use and when - similar to the original question above. I don't want to be performing steps out of order - or bothering with something that really doesn't need to be done.
To help ease your fears, I'll give you a basic list of some big "don'ts"... as long as you don't do these things then it is truly difficult to mess anything up. PLUS, and perhaps most importantly, 99.9% of anything that can be messed up can also be fixed- often fairly easily.
Basic Detailing Don'ts:
- Don't touch your paint (with anything- your fingers, dry cloth, etc.) if it's dirty. When it's dirty, handwash it using a car wash soap, lots of water, and a safe mitt like wool.
- Don't reuse clay on your paint if you drop it- no matter how clean it may look.
- Don't use a rotary polisher; if you're going to use a polisher, use only the Porter-Cable dual-action orbital or something similar in mechanism and torque.
- Don't wear belts or jewelry when detailing... you could bump them on your paint and cause scratches.
Honestly, if you keep in mind that 99.9% of anything you can mess up can be fixed then that in and of itself should help boost your confidence.
I know there are TONS of people out there on NAM who had the same fears that you have who are now detailing nuts! I know they're out there because I've talked to/written with many of them before and after. Once you try some things you'll find out quickly that it's all very easy and not dangerous at all.
I hope that helps! Now I'd like to see all the formerly scared detailers out there to come forward and admit you were once scared too!
And one last thing: Please feel free to give me a call or PM (or email, although I keep finding emails lost in my Junk Folder lately!) anytime to review what kind of process might be good for you. I promise not to sell you anything (unless you ask, of course!).
Sometimes it helps to actually talk to someone about your goals, your car and how much time you want to spend, etc. I can help you understand all this stuff in a customized format.-Heather
Claybars are relativly new to the consumer world as it is, figuring the car has been mass-produced for about 100 years. Claybar until recently (past what, decade or so?) was very unused by 'the consumer' and was only used by the pro's and show car people.
Neglecting your paint (no wax, no nothing) will probably do as much damage to it as anything else over the same period of time.
Talk to Heather, Kenchan, OctaneGuy, myself (on the easier stuff
), Chili Red & Pepper White (he has major OCD), many others here that live in the Detailing 101 section. We all can help you to help your MINI by laying down the protection it needs/wants on its paint.
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