I'm still immune. Here's proof.

 

I know this thread is for the Non-OCDetailers, but after reading a few pages of it, I think I've found some candidates for the OCDetailers Hall Of Fame.

Some of you aren't quite there yet, but you will be pretty soon !!

 

OK, I did read the whole thread (took me three sessions to do it, but I did).

Since this thread has been revived I figured I'd post a few more questions here rather than start a new thread.

My MINI is due in by the end of the month (oh my, it's been a long wait...but don't get me started ). My question is when do I do the first wash, barring an obvious dirtifying of said MINI on my way home or something like that. Is there an advantage to doing the first treatment right away or can I wait until the need is more obvious?

Secondly, I'm in western NY. We tend to get a little winter. Though I have a garage (unheated), washing / waxing, etc. during the chilly season seems like it'll be a little challenging. Of course, temps do warm up from time to time, but let's assume for discussion purposes that there's not really a good opportunity to wash and wax for about five months. I saw one or two posts to this thread about how different products will hold up through the winter (not well as I recall). What's a reasonable way for us 'non-OCDers' to keep our MINIs maintained through the winter? (NOTE - I've got snow tires and plan to drive my MINI this winter.)

Lastly, I haven't read or seen anything about this, but would there be any advantage in 'invisishield-ing' the side panels of the MINI, especially the rear panels? Our road just got chip-sealed a couple weeks ago and every time I drive it, I hear those chips-a-flyin'. Trade-offs? Other thoughts?

I welcome your ideas on any / all of the above--thanks!

 

Thanks to everyone on the forum! I read through the whole thread, bought the basics from DP and the local auto parts place, and then set to a complete wash/clay/wax for my new Clubman. I wanted to start out with just the right treatment so that my car's finish would stay really nice.

I washed my MINI with Prima Mystique, and followed that up with Meguiar's clay and Slick. After that, I put on a thin coat of Epic, and buffed it off. Surprisingly, the depth of the wax took a couple of days to come out fully. If you do the same thing I did, hold on- let it go a couple of days before you panic. :-) The final results are totally stunning!

The quote of the weekend came from my 8 year-old daughter- she watched a bright green dragonfly go by, and wondered if we needed very small microfiber towels to detail it properly...

I do have a question- anyone know how to get the tiny water spots off of the windshield? I keep washing it with glass cleaner, but to no avail. Any suggestions?

 

Until last week I was a hose+zip wax + towel dry guy. I now started following the advice in detailing 101 in this forum and I am hooked! When you get a good process down it is neither expensive nor long hours, and you get a mirror like shine.
Here is another good site that will go into great detail on many questions.
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html
Also, the hard-water for those in Vegas is much worse than most other places. I have experienced it. I understand plants can not even be watered without filtering the water, as the minerals in the water will kill the plants? The water may still be an unresolved factor in your getting a good finish there. Perhaps some other Vegas NAMers can address this if, in fact, hard water is something to deal with? Can anyone comment if local detailers treat the water, in areas like Vegas?
Good luck becoming a "quick detailer", as I did this week. And thanks again for all your advice, guys and gals.

 

Im a true noob to car washing/detailing, so I followed this thread in and out of its OC tendencies, and am ready to step up and try to take care of my new Clubman. Sorry for the long post, but I don't really know anything! I haven't hand washed a car since I was a kid washing my dad's car, and had no idea about the ins and outs that could be involved. My plan right now is to order the starter bundle from detailers paradise, which includes:

Prima Mystique Auto Wash, 16 oz
Thumbless Sheepskin Wash Mitt
Paradise Waffle-Weave Drying Towels, x2
Prima Epic Wax, 16 oz
Paradise Skinny Applicator Pads, x1
Paradise Platinum Premium Microfiber Buffing Cloth
Prima Slick, quick detail spray, 16 oz
Paradise Monster Fluffy Premium Microfiber Buffing Cloth

Is this a good idea? I was also going to add Hydro. I'm going to get a bucket and grit gard from US Plastic as referenced in another thread. I will be picking up my Clubman tomorrow and want to to do the basics talked about in this thread--wash with dawn (dishwashing detergent I assume?), then do a clay (scary but people say it isn't as hard or weird as it might seem), then epic. Then bi-weekly or so do a wash with mystique and hydro.

A couple questions. First, is there anything else I need besides the bundle, clay and lube (which i guess i can get at an automotive store?), hydro and the wash bucket? Should I get another monster fluffy towel? Any other products? I'm not sure I have a ues for the Slick, but still the bundle seems cheaper than buying separate I believe.

Second, once I get my gear, I think I can figure out most of what has been discussed earlier. Dawn wash. Dry. Clay. Epic. Let cure for a while, and then buff. But I don't really know what it means to buff--is there a particular technique i have to use? After that, wash with mystique and hydro.

thanks to those who read this long post and anyone who offers advice!

 

Buffing is just removing the hazed wax. It's a little harder on PW, but as long as you apply Epic as thin as humanly possible (not kidding), it should take no more than 45 minutes or so to haze over. Then use a Monster Fluffy or Platinum to remove the dried wax.

For me, you can never have too many MFs of various types. I mostly rely on waffle weaves (for drying), Monster Fluffys (for using with Slick, or removing wax), and blue utility MFs (that you can get on the cheap at places like Target, Costco, Sam's, etc in bulk - for cleaning wheels, door jams/sills, under the bonnet, various places in the interior, etc.). The only other thing I can think of as far as good basics is a Grit Guard, which you can usually find at a good auto supply store.

You'll find you'll use Slick for things like getting a random spot or bird crap off when the car is relatively clean, for cleaning interior painted pieces (most of the hard non-vinyl wrapped plastic in the car), and for maybe removing a stubborn spot of Epic if you lay it on too thick (just spritz a little on the spot and remove with a MF).

Everything else you said sounds good!

 

The hard water here in Vegas is only an issue if you let the water dry on the car and then it leaves HORRIBLE spots, especially after a rain when it pulls all the dust and other chemicals from the air and drags it onto the car. I typically jump on them right away and haven't had an issue with permanency.

 

If I had it to do over, I would have gone ahead and bought their large kit. I have ended up ordering most everything that was included in it anyway.

I just tried out the Black Wow to remove the Epic stains from my black trim. All I can say is Wow.

I think the Nero is my favorite item as a dash cleaner.

Wal-mart round micro cover foam applicator pads work better for me than the thin square one that came with the basic kit. They also have some blue micro cloths that I use a lot for exterior window and bird clean ups with Slick.

 

I have received my "non-OC" wash supplies from Paradise - Mystique, Hydro, Clarity, waffle towels, etc. - based on suggestions here. Also ordered Nero, for a matte finish on plastic and vinyl. Prima website mentions tires - but no mention on bottles' directions. Directions also advise against using on "running boards". What about bottom trim on Mini?


Advice on do's/don'ts with Nero?

 

Not trying to be facetious here but, the reason you don't put it on running boards or control surfaces is that it might be slippery and then you'll want to sue Prima. Most people don't step on the bottom trim on the MINI, so there really isn't any concern there.

 

do's with Nero: definitely dillute it 50/50 with water.

then you can just spray your rubber floor mats after washing them,
let air dry. no need to rub, no need to do anything.

it will feel tad slick for a day, but it will quickly wear off.

in fact, i only use Nero 50/50 these days on all interior trim.

 

Yep. Got that. First rule is read instructions. Second rule is read them again. I caught the "slippage" bit in the instructions the second time around. Thanks.

 

Thanks everyone for being so helpful to a newbie in detailing (even if non-OC).

Any guidelines on how often to wash waffle towels (used for drying with Hydro) and other microfibers (used with Clarity or Nero)? Conservative would be every time to avoid any scratches, but best practice?

 

For me, after every use. I use them, hang them to dry, then wash them. Although I could wash them when wet, but I like to put as many microfibers together as I can to do a load. Once in a long while I will reuse a towel that's dried as long as I know that towel wasn't dropped and wasn't used on a dirty part of the car---say you wiped off the lower bumper or skirts and got dirt/mud on the towel--I'm not going to risk using that towel until it's cleaned.

Same applies to other microfibers.

Richard

 

Hi everyone,

I'm seeing cross-eyed from reading this thread start to finish, but WOW there is a LOT of great info, especially for someone who's not got a clue. I feel now like I could actually go out and do this...

Couple of quick questions-

1) my road has also just been chip & tarred and I also have chips flying. I've got the same question as Tedswoods, above.

2) When I had my invisishield put on, there was a list of instructions about what to and not to put on it. I just want to clarify that the products listed here are ok on the invisishield

3) there was a lot of good info on window cleaning, but I've had tinting put on my windows and was told not to use anything that had ammonia in it, as the ammonia would eat the tinting.

4) storage tips- can this stuff stay out in the garage where there is a tad of heat (enough to keep the pipes from freezing, but not actual "heat") or can it go in my storage shed where there's no heat, or do I have to keep it about 65 degrees?

5) I'm a horseback rider and have all sorts of lovely leather products for my saddles. Can I use these on my lounge leather or should I get an AUTO LEATHER conditioner/cleaner thing? And if so, I would appreciate some recommendations. BTW, I DO NOT use saddle soap. I've found it dries out leather terribly.

6) a little ot... I have other vehicles... my Landcruiser, which is now almost 9 yrs old and has been detailed by a pro once a year, and washed by me at either the brushless thingies or in the bay with the wand... it's black and has some scratches and paint chips on it. Anything I can do to preserve it, besides detailing it myself like I will do with my mini? Also I have an 82 MB wagon in that weird silver/blue color... The paint on this looks like it was heated up in places (it was a southern Alabama car and I'm afraid it's never seen a garage). I don't want to sink money into this car (any more than I've already done) but do I live with the paint as is (plus cleaning/prima etc) or is it totally necessary for me to have this puppy repainted (the car is currently used to pick up feed, haul rescued animals- small animals, not large- and other things).

7) ok, last but not least... (we hope)... when I had my grandmother's car restored, I was told not to wax it for 3months so the paint could cure. Do I need to do the same thing with my MINI? I just picked it up about 3 weeks ago. I've been hosing it off daily, sometimes multiple times a day, due to the road issues and dust from the chips (limestone dust btw). But I'm guessing when the dealership detailed it, they waxed it. Yes? No?

Must go hit head against wall to get my eyes uncrossed. Thanks to everyone here for a GREAT thread. I'll be joining the OC ranks soon enough.

Now to order my goodies (Hi Heather! You'll be getting a call soon!)

Vivi

 

I hate this The county does the same to my parents' street this time of year and I hate driving on it it. It's slippery! Anyway, the best preventative measure is to just drive as slowly as is reasonable. You can also get vinyl stone chip guards for in front of the rear wheels. There are removable magnetic ones out there too, but they scratch the paint. I'm in the market for a set of the clear vinyl ones, myself!

I have film all over my car, and use all of the Prima products on it with no issue. Sometimes you have to clean up around the edges (I just use a Slick-dipped Q-tip), and you want to be careful to work from the center of the film working out (so you don't get product stuck under the edges) but other than that, I just treat it like I treat the paint.

Clarity is safe for your tint. For other products, just check for "ammonia-free" on the label.

I used to leave my stuff out in the garage all winter with no issues. Now I have no garage, but everything is in a storage shed in my back yard. I wouldn't leave stuff where it could freeze, but your garage should be safe!

I'm sure your leather stuff is fine. Keeping it clean and conditioned is the important thing

If you have a good detailer, he should be able to fill any chips/scratches and polish the Landcruiser out to look like new. If not, then you need a new detailer! If you do this, bring him your new Prima wax to use, so then all you have to do is continue to wash/wax/etc.

Do you have pictures of what you are talking about with the paint on the wagon? Does it look white/flakey or something?

Your MINI's paint is baked at the factory So you don't need to wait - it's ready to go. When you get something repainted, like at a body shop or custom shop, it's usually not baked so you have to wait the 30 days (3 months is crazy!...I've never heard that long of a window before) before you can wax...but between the paint being baked at the factory, and being well over a month from the time it's completed, to getting here by ship, etc, you're good to go. The dealership likely threw some cheap-crap wax on it...you'll want either a wax remover (I like P21S total wash) or a solution of water/alcohol (someone else can chime in here, I've never done it this way) to remove the dealer's wax so you can start fresh. A Dawn wash should also work to remove it.

Did I hit everything? I think so...

 

I had a set of those magnetic stone guards, and I left them on after I drove in wet conditions. Now there were no scratches, as I always put them on CLEAN paint, and spritzed them with QD first, but the moisture that got behind them left the clear coat cloudy. I managed to polish it out with a PC, but I threw them away after that. Clear film may be the answer Or a graphic

Mark

 

Having had that Invisishield installed on my side panels (the whole length of the MINI) and living out among farms, fields, dirt roads, and stone chips, I think it's done well to protect the finish of the MINI. I certainly can't say I won't have problems with it down the road, but so far, so good. I did manage to get a little wax stuck under the edge of it in a few spots--it does happen. I've only clayed my MINI once so far and I did not clay the Invisishield only because it took me a long time and I was running out of daylight. Despite that (based on postings in this section, I think) I've used everything else on it and it has performed well.

Good luck with your our non-OCD attempts to keep your MINI looking great!

 

Thank you thank you thank you!

I'm going to get some chip guards... actually I'm going to call the guys who installed my invisishield and have them just put more of that stuff on! That way I can make sure it gets done correctly and doesn't have hay or dog hair in it

I'm back and forth on the whole chipped road thing. Our road is literally one lane, country, and when it's smooth and sleek, the high school kids go much too fast on it (we had 3 of them, within a month, flip over after missing a corner and end up in a creek up side down. They all lived, luckily)- seeing as people (like me) ride and drive their horses & mules on the road, having high speed autos isn't a good thing. On the other hand, my husband used to ride his road bike on this road, but can't now... not like there aren't a gadzillion places to ride tho!

I'll get a pix of the MB hood. It's an old (82) diesel and I think it might have caught fire or overheated at one point (it happens)... cause from the looks of it, it looks like the paint melted...

Thank you so much. This really helps. I'm on my way to being as NOT ocd about this as the rest of you (giggle)

 

Okay, I read this entire post hoping to find out quick and easy ways to keep my MINI looking nice... and over the course of 2 hours became an OCer! I just placed my first order with Detailers Paradise! My husband thinks I've gone crazy, but I can't wait for him to see the results. The information you all posted is great, I have never really detailed a car so this is all new to me.

 

Yup...it's started CooperDreams! I'm sure Bruiser will thank you for it. Believe me when I say I cannot wait for warmer weather! tedsmini is oh-so-dirty after this never-ending winter. The first order to DP...yup, RJ's going to be proud of you!

 

As many others have said, I started on this topic to pick up some hints and tricks and I'm hooked! I'm in the process of ordering my batch of Prima items now!

I do have a quick question, though (and probably a stupid one at that). Is there a preference on whether to use a microfiber or lambswool/sheepskin mitt to wash? Is one more likely to put scratches in the paint? I know that the lambswool seems softer (to me, anyway) so I'd figure this would be the better choice but I've heard that it'll scratch the paint? Thanks in advance to any suggestions.

Also, thanks everyone for all of the useful information!

 

I have one of each. The lambswool seems to be more effective at picking up dirt, rather than moving it around. It's harder to get the dirt out of the lambswool than off the microfiber.

 

I think I'm going to grab a lambswool mitt too, then. I'll just be extra careful to rinse well between each mitt-in-wash-bucket. Thanks so much!