Do you use the two bucket method? You might also consider Dirt Guards in the bottom of your bucket(s).

 

I haven't used the two bucket method yet. Before putting my mitt back into my wash bucket I thoroughly rinse it with the hose. I figure it takes care of any trapped dirt and/or debris as the other bucket would. Thanks for the suggestion, though!

 

BASIC Question: Is there a recommended car wash product that I can purchase at AutoZone, Wal-Mart, etc.?

Thanks.

 

yes, meguiar's Gold Class Wash. and use the proper mix with water.

it's pretty decent, but nowhere as good as Griot's CarWash. the lubricity is just not there.

 

I have read this and other threads and still have questions before I clay and wax my mini. Please help. Here is my mini's detailing background:
I have used only Prima products since my new mini arrived in August of 08. I wash with Mystique and Hydro every week, sometimes two. I applied Epic after 2 weeks upon arrival(It's been 9 months since Epic but use Hydro every wash). I am now due for a wax and thought I would clay first. I can feel a small amount of grit when I run my finger over clean paint on side of car so I am assuming mini would benefit from clay.
Here is my plan of attack:
1. Wash. My main question is, Do I use a vinegar solution to help remove any remaining Epic? I read that Dawn won't remove Epic. What strength do I use?
2. Dry with waffle microfiber towel.
3. Try to remove water spots on windows. I have Slick. Will this work?
4. Clay with Clay Magic and Meguire's QD for lubrication. Dry as I go with a microfiber cloth or monster fluffy.
I am assuming a polish is not necessary, as I do not see any noticable swirls (some on posts so perhaps I should use cut and/or swirl on those before Epic?)
5. Apply very thin layer of Epic with microfiber covered sponge. Tape off trim or apply Epic very carefully to it keep off trim.
6. Wipe off with monter fluffy after an hour.
Does this sound like a good plan? I want to do right by my baby!

Thanks for any advice.
Nancy

 

Hey Nancy sounds like you're taking proper care of your MINI. Congrats!

To answer some of your questions.

1.) Vinegar won't remove wax....it can be used to dissolve mineral deposits on glass, i.e. water spots. I wouldn't use it on my paint. If you read that advice here on NAM, please provide a link to it.

3.) Just like #1, water spots are mineral deposits. Slick will not remove them. You'll need to dissolve the deposits, then clean the glass with Prima Clarity.

5.) Do you have a Porter Cable Random Orbital Polisher?? If not, then don't bother trying to polish with Cut. I would just conceal the defects using Amigo or Banana Gloss if you're working by hand.

6.) Wipe off Epic after it's dried. It might be an hour or two or less. Do the swipe test to determine if it's dry. Do this in different areas by swiping with your clean finger on the dried wax. If you get a clean swipe of the finger..it doesn't look smudgy then it's dry enough to remove. If you applied Epic by hand, the thickness will vary, as will the drying time, so you need to do the swipe test in different areas to be sure. If you notice resistance/friction when removing Epic, it's likely not dry yet.

Richard

 

OctaneGuy,
Thanks for the quick reply. I won't use vinegar to wash - I will try to find and send you that link. Should I wash with Mystique as usual before I clay or use something else to help get the old product off?

I don't have an orbital polisher. Wish I did. So I suppose I will skip the polish until later days.

Any recommendations for cleaning the water spots off the windows. I don't have Clarity yet.
Nancy

 

Use the vinegar for the water spots on the glass. I buy the Heinz Distilled Vinegar from Costco in gallon form. Put it on a clean lint free towel and wipe the spots off. You might need to let it sit on some stubborn spots longer

For the wax, you really don't need to strip it. Just clay the paint thoroughly and rewax it and you'll be fine.

Richard

 

Thanks for the tips. I am feeling more confident now. I will give it a go this morning.
Nancy

 

ok, i'm sure this was covered but humor me.

lucas oil slick mist...yes / no?
can that be used on everything exterior as it claims? i've heard rave reviews from users. i want to give it a whirl unless someone has a reason for me not to.
simple green Max for all interior.... yes/ no?

 

Hi all, I've been reading the first several pages of this thread (now it's been a few years!) but my head started spinning shortly after... I got my MCS 2009 a few weeks ago with about 500mi on it, the demo model. The exterior was fine but the interior's got a few scuffs that I'm hoping to clean. I think I've got the "routine" down thanks to everyone, but I do have a few questions. Apologies if they've been asked already in various ways, I'm not so search-proficient on forums as robust as NAM!

Can I get most of the products recommended here from Pep Boys/Wal-Mart? Which chain store usually carries a lot of products? I think I'll probably have to order some things online from Detailer's Paradise...? I figure I'll just make a long list and try going to the stores first.

I've never owned a car before nor do I have any experience cleaning/detailing cars, so... It's a bit daunting. I really want to keep my MINI in good condition, though, so I'm eager to learn. Just today I opened my door a bit too far and hit the edge lightly on a pole. I may have to retouch up the Laser Blue paint (since the scratches seem too small for me to take it to a detailer) -- is that even possible?

Forgive my absolute ignorance, too, on tires. Would I have to jack up the car/remove the tires to clean them properly??

Thank you for your patience and help!

 

Congrats on your new MINI!!

Yes, all of this crazy cleaning and detailing stuff can seem quite daunting when you're first starting out. Don't worry though... you have lots of support on this forum (as well as from all of us vendors directly as well) and you'll soon find the gads of information will fall into place.

For your questions:

Re: Source of products
You can definitely start out at any one of the mass-market stores, such as the ones you listed. Although you'll find lesser quality products (i.e. lower concentrations and thus less value, lesser quality raw ingredients and thus less effectiveness, etc) for areas such as your paint, leather, vinyl and wheels, you can get some of the basics here. In some of these stores you can even find high quality product lines such as 303 or Lexol (the cleaner is excellent but the conditioner is loved by some and hated by some). They also carry detailing clay (don't mind brand much for clay... other than 2 general types of "stickiness" all clay is the same and due to patent law is only manufactured by one company despite the brand name on the clay). Mothers or Meguiar's are the two most commonly found detailing clay brands in the mass-market stores. Meguiar's has a few decent products, IMO, but it is hit and miss so be sure to research specific products on this forum (or ask OctaneGuy here on NAM who knows the Meguiar's line very well). Last, you can pick up some low quality microfiber in quantity... note, however, that you should NEVER use this microfiber on your paint! The quality level is almost always sub-par from an effectiveness standpoint but more importantly it can (and most likely will) scratch your paint... sometimes at a micro level that isn't obvious until you've done so a few times. These low-quality microfiber can be used on your vinyl surfaces and often your wheels as well. They can come in handy.

Beyond those few basics though, as you have probably read, it really does pay off to purchase the high quality brands. Yes, I am biased because I sell several high quality brands and design/manufacture the Prima brand. However, note that I was once a regular Joe (or Jill really!) too and tried all the various brands until I realized how much of a difference it makes to use the good stuff!

Not only will you find the premium brands (Prima, Klasse, Zaino, 303, Leatherique, Lake Country, Porter Cable, Black Wow, RaggTopp, Wizards, Four Star, to name a few) to be more effective but they are almost always less expensive in the long run. Sometimes they are less expensive simply because of concentration levels, such as with the car wash soaps, aka auto shampoos. You will use significantly less product per app with most premium soaps, polishes, waxes, cleaners, etc. than you will with most mass-marketed brands... ultimately saving you $$. Also, durable waxes like Prima Epic, Zaino, Klasse SG will last so much longer than other brands of waxes, thus requiring you to use less per year.

Just some food for thought!

Re: Re-touch door edge
It depends on how far into your paint you've dinged it. Sometimes there's just a little paint transfer on your paint which was picked up by whatever you bonked into (this can look like a ding or scratch when it sometimes isn't). This can usually be removed with detailing clay. If it's just a wee scratch that hasn't made it through your layers of clearcoat and your layer of colored paint (read: through to your primer), then you can hand-polish the spot with a diminishing abrasive such as Meguiar's Scratch-X or Prima Swirl. If it's through to your primer then you'll need to use touch-up paint (Langka and Autovisuals are two favorites around here and my own faves too).

Re: Cleaning tires
To clean the tires, most will agree that you do not need to remove them. A typical process for cleaning tires would be to simply wash them with your car wash soap (nothing harsh), dry them and apply a rubber protectant (i.e. Prima Nero or 303 Aerospace Protectant).
To clean your wheels, however, it is most effective to remove them. That said, most will agree that you don't need to do this every time. Some of our customers remove and clean their wheels once or twice a year. Others only do this every year or so. Removing your wheels is really the only practical way to get far enough into the wheel to thoroughly clean them. Of course, you can clean the outside surface and some of the inner surface without removing them. For a basic routine, you do not need to remove your wheels. (be cautious of harsh wheel cleaners... lots of related info on that here on NAM)

I hope that helps! Congrats again and keep the questions coming. That's what we're here for.

-Heather

PS The baby's crying so I don't have time to proofread this post.. I hope it makes sense!

 

what heather was saying is just use Hydro and you will be happy.

 

Heather -- thank you SO much!!!

Actually, ironically, I thought no one was reading this thread anymore, so I went ahead and checked out Wal-Mart and Pep Boys. From Wal-Mart I was able to grab two buckets, a little hand window blade (not sure why, since it's so small, but I like having it?), Tide Free liquid detergent (for the towels), a ton of microfiber towels, a wash mitt, a really cheap tire cleaner, a tire brush with stiff bristles (perhaps a mistake? There's also those non-stiff brushes, but they remind me of dusters), a California duster, Meguiar's claykit, and a fairly pricey hand vacuum. Pep Boys was surprisingly disappointing, and while they carried a lot more brands, there really wasn't that much different. I think I just wanted a Detailers Paradise in person.

But then I checked my notes -- and saw that my wash mitt really isn't a lambskin mitt, my microfiber towels aren't up to par, etc., so I placed a huge order with Detailers Paradise (BEFORE your reply to me!) and hilariously, I received my order today! Five Prima products: Mystique, Hydro, Epic, Nero, Clarity, and the necessary microfiber towels. I'm just worried that my drying towels are too small (I ordered two waffle-weave) and that I should have gotten a monster fluffy towel...?

Anyway, yes, your advice is super helpful. I will definitely keep it all in mind and I'm glad I did put in the order to DP, haha! It's great to know what tiers of quality there are.

Re: the scratch. Unfortunately I think it did make it through the primer, because I rubbed one of the scratches and came away with my Laser Blue paint And of course, tragically enough, earlier this week I made a small dent in my rear bumper, and that definitely did some damage to the plastic/paint! Oh well. I think I'll have to live with it for now -- it's not noticeable unless you're looking for it. I'll look into those paint brands you recommended!

I live near Indianapolis and it's been raining this week, so I haven't had a chance to do anything yet. Washing my MINI is going to be interesting, considering I live in an apartment that doesn't have roofed/garage parking, so I'll have to find some shade. Gotta get a hose, too. Eep. I have high hopes, though.

Oh, one more question -- if I use the foam applicators to apply Epic, etc. do I never wash them? Are they okay if I leave them be? I know I'm supposed to wash towels afterward, but now I've got a ton of products and I'm not totally sure whether I need to wash my towels, if say, after I use Clarity... Thank you so much again! What an adventure so far. Hope your baby's doing well

kenchan: I will! Thanks

 

Forgot to mention I didn't buy a Grit Guard / Dirtguard yet, because I feel like that's an investment I might not need...? My wallet is in pain.

 

well, the person that's going to be swirling the paint is you, so best to PREVENT swirls by using grit guard and blot dry technique.

or Hydro and wipe dry. Hydro acts as a lube so less drag + seals your finish.

 

LOL! That is really funny! Well, I'm glad the information was helpful... even if a little late in the game.

Despite the fact you discovered that you should have a 100% wool mitt and the microfiber (MF) wasn't up to par, I'd say you still did pretty well.

Your non-wool mitt can still be used... just limit it to use on your wheels. Yes, your wheels are most likely painted (unless you have non-OEM bare metal wheels) but the paint is so super hard that you don't have to worry about your mitt choice on them.

You can still use your low quality MF- for non-paint uses as I mentioned in my last post. So no problem on having extra low-qual MF. Just be sure NOT to use them on your paint.

Your tire brush should be just fine too. The tires can withstand stiff bristles with no problem. You should be careful of super-stiff bristles on your wheels (the paint's not THAT hard ) but your tires are tough enough for your tire brush.

Be careful with your tire cleaner. Some are too harsh and will brown your tires. Maybe test a spot first?

The California Dusters can be great tools for maintaining that freshly washed look. Just be sure to use it only when the car is dusty, not dirty, and use a light hand (in other words, don't press down on the paint with it). If the paint was dusty and then was rained upon, you shouldn't use your duster. The rain typically has so much gunk in it these days that, especially when mixed with the dust, the resulting surface grime is a scratch risk. That said, if you dust your MINI every morning, you will find that it will look freshly washed all the time! (until that rain hits anyway!) Finally, if you haven't used it yet, be sure to wrap it in newspaper overnight (or even a few days) to absorb any excess paraffin in the fibers. The excess paraffin will cause some streaking (if it does... no harm, but you'll probably have to wash again to remove the streaks).

The other stuff you bought (Tide, clay, etc) sound great and be a great help.



Although the Prima Waffle-Weave drying towels we sell are just 20"x40", you will be very surprised by how much they will absorb. Two Waffles will be plenty to dry your MINI.

The Monster Fluffy isn't best for drying (different weave style) but is best for buffing off/removing wax, polish and/or quick detail spray (or Hydro if you're using it on a dry surface instead of as a wax-as-you-dry).

Here's a tip for apartment dwellers...
If you have a coin-op hand spray wash place nearby, don't be bashful in using it. We have many customers who just use the facility for its water and shelter. As long as it's not one of those days when there is a line waiting for you to finish, just bring your own bucket(s) and your own products/tools. Some people only feed the machine quarters while using the water but others feel guilty for not paying "rent" the rest of the time they're there so they'll feed it extra quarters.
No one will mind if you take your time there (unless people are waiting of course!) and you'll have easy access to water and shade!

You should DEFINITELY wash your applicators after applying Epic. In fact, if you can't wash them ASAP then you should put them in a zip lock bag so the Epic doesn't dry in them. Epic has excellent durability and it doesn't care if it's on paint or in your app. You can hand wash with warm water and dish soap (ie, blue Dawn or something similarly plain but powerful). Alternatively, you can machine wash with your microfiber as long as you're doing so right away.

As a general rule, you should wash your microfiber after every use. There are exceptions though... you can usually wait several uses before having to wash the microfiber you use with Clarity and you need to wash in this case not because of the Clarity but because of accumulated dirt/grime. I don't usually wash my MF between Nero apps on the interior either.

You should not make exception for MF that touches your paint. Always wash microfiber you plan on using on your paint again in order to reduce scratch risk.

The good news is that MF is easy to machine wash and machine dry. Just use your liquid Tide (or other liquid detergent), no bleach, no fabric softener and no dryer sheets. After several uses, it can be helpful to toss in a bit of white vinegar (say 1/2 Cup or so) during your rinse cycle to breakup any potential buildup of wax in your towels. It'll bring back their full effectiveness.

Thanks! She was easily calmed and soon after enjoyed lunch and playtime. She's playing with Dad now so I'm back here again.

Thanks for the order! We truly appreciate your business.

Post with more questions as you come up with them. Enjoy!

-Heather

 

I found this site when I started researching how to integrate an iPod into my 2006 MINI. After making my decisions on that I wandered over to this forum. I have to say, this thread is amazing. I'm 3 years into my first car and never imagined that I needed to do anything more than take it to the no-brush car wash now and then. I was disappointed to notice how much grit was getting embedded into my lovely Pepper White paint but had no clue what to do about it. Wasn't sure that anything could be done.

All that has now changed after reading this thread and several others. And I have just completed most of what I now consider to be required purchases...

Prima Mystique, Epic, Hydro, Nero, and Clarity
Prima Monster Fluffy and 2 waffle weave drying MFs
Mothers California Gold Claybar kit
Meguiars MF wash mitt and 3 Supreme Shine MFs

The only 2 things left on the list are the Dirt Guard insert and the Handgrip foam wax applicator.

What do you think? and how much Dawn do you need to add to the water for the 1st step of wax removal?
I've never done this kind of work before, but I guess I'm excited to try. I am definitely very excited at the thought of my MINI getting back to its original gorgeousness. I just hope it's not too damaged from 3 years of relative neglect.

I do have some paint chips, about 1/16" diameter. Can I wait to take care of them or should that be done before claying? For some reason dealing with that is more daunting to me than the rest. thanks for any input.

 

I would touch-up after claying. Let the paint dry well (whatever the package recommends) and then you can Epic over it.

 

Can I get away with not polishing after the paint chip touch-ups? I read somewhere in these threads that I need to sand and then polish after the paint dries. Is there a simple way to do a good finish on the touch-up with the products I've bought?

 

I just received an email reply from Meguiar's concerning the number of fibers psi on their Supreme Shine MF towels. He said they don't give out that info!!! since there are other factors involved in determining quality. (didn't specify what though). I am planning to use their MF mitt for washing though. Can someone reassure me that it's a good product??? thanks.

 

Woah! I thought I was reading the non OCD thread
OK, similar questions have been asked, but then they get all complicated. So let's keep this simple. Any help would be great!

Just got my MINI last night.
I want to keep it in tiptop shape, but want to gradually get in depth with detailing. I am so new to this, I want to start slow so I don't mess anything up.

The dealership just washed and waxed it yesterday. So what do I need to do for the next few weeks before it needs a new wax? I don't want to mess anything up by undoing a good wax job too soon.

Dawn will strip the wax, right? so no dawn?
How about just the prima wash stuff, hydro and glass cleaner? How long will this method last?
And did I read somewhere that there is a product you can keep in your car for bug gut spot removal in between washes??

Of course I'll also be getting all the microfibers, mitts, grit guard, etc.

I really really appreciate it!

 

IMO, the dealership detail is garbage. Hopefully they didn't swirl your paint when they washed and waxed it

If I were in your shoes, I would Dawn wash, clay, and wax the car with a good synthetic like Epic. Then you could do Mystique washes and drying with Hydro and be good to go for like 6 months.

 

What she said.

I would also invest in a good random orbital polisher "PC" as they are called here for Porter Cable who is main mfg of them. Hate to say it but odds are your dealership added some swirls to your paint job. You will too but if you do some of the practices you are reading about it will cut down immensly

 

I am way too intimidated by claying, waxing, etc. I didn't even know what claying was until I googled it yesterday. I'm afraid I will screw the whole thing up and be worse off than ever. It's brand new. I'm way too nervous.

That's why I wanted to start simple and then feel more comfortable with the products, towels, grit trapper thing. I've never even used a two bucket method and will have to google that too.

Maybe after a few washes and claying research I'll feel better about it, but it needs a wash after all this rain and I don't have half the stuff on the list.
I bought Mystique, hydro, wool mitt, some microfiber waffle towels and the Prima glass cleaner and towel. Surely that will at least be ok for a month until I'm more comfortable with the whole process??

Unless there is someone in Alabama that I can hire as a MINI detailing tutor